Monthly Archives: February 2019

Realtime Passage South in Chile to Valdivia

Just crossing the 35 degree south mark on the way to Valdivia. As we leaving Quintero there was enough wind to use the sails and it was a downwind sail along the coast heading south again. Was about to launch the spinnaker when an ominous clouds started to appear ahead of us, thus we stayed with working sails and as soon as we reached the clouds the wind dropped to 3 knots. Bummer, on comes an engine and we motor through the night replenishing the the water tanks with fresh water.
The night air was so thick we could barely see 1/2 a mile, radar more than once proved its worth. The big tankers were sounding their fog horns and of course reporting their positions on AIS so they were easy to spot. The fishing boats on the other hand were a hard to spot. With radar we simply set them as a “target” and keep anything suspect a safe distance of a mile or two away. The radar proximity alarm warned of all ‘suspect spots’ that got within 3 miles of us. A quiet night besides the fog horns, the swell also seemed calm.
Today was a very grey day, the drizzal continued and the sun only poked out for just long enough to dry off the nightly moisture. Then started to drizzal again. Still no wind, slow boating under one motor as we really don’t have a deadline to arrive. After 2 months in the northern desert of Chile this moisture from the sky is a strange phenomenon.
Made a pretty tasty pizza for dinner, also helped heat up the salon for a little while. It is ‘summer’ here until this coming Saturday. For us its down right cold, not cold enough to leave the beers outside to chill but after being used to shorts and t-shirts, temperatures in the mid 60F in the morning merit long sleeves and pants (or foul weather gear) 🙂 We have used the heaters to warm up the boat, but seems that 75F is too warm, we must be spoiled.
Thought about stopping for a quick swim as the water is glassy calm. Checking the water temperature, 17.3C (63F) degrees quickly removed that idea off list.
260 miles to go to mouth of the Valdivia river.
Happy Friday.
At 2/22/2019 @ 12:42 AM Our position: 35°37.35’S, 073°04.78’W Traveling 4.9 heading 205T
Google says we are here www.google.com/maps/place/-35.62250,-73.07967

Diving Kicker Rock

DIVE TOUR: KICKER ROCK

We wanted to dive once before we left the Galapagos. So, we reserved a dive tour off of Kicker rock. Our friend Emily, at Islanders Galapagos organized a fun filled day for us. We hopped in a small boat with about 8 other guests and made our way to Tortuga Beach.

We passed by Kicker Rock on the way to Tortuga Beach and got a great photo op.

Kicker Rock in all her Glory

Kicker Rock in all her Glory

Tobago Beach Lava Hike:

We had a wet landing at Tortuga Beach and went exploring around the lava formations. They jutted up all around us creating pits, gauges, water holes, and towers.  Pockets of water, green plants and cactus poking out of holes and breathtaking views all around.

Lava Formations at Tortgua Beach

Lava Formations at Tortgua Beach

There were several goat skulls. Our guide pointed out that they are aggressive and unwanted creatures that were destroying the natural habitat.  Eating precious turtle and bird eggs and destroying vegetation.  They are not indigenous to the Galapagos.

After a nice fish lunch, we were given our dive instructions. Only Matt, Ron, and I were diving. Everyone else went on a snorkel adventure. I hate to admit it, but I was nervous. Yes, I have well over 100 dives under my belt, but this was with strange gear, new BCD (back inflatable) and full 7mil wetsuit. I had never been diving with a wetsuit and weights. I was unsure of leveling out my buoyancy. It took a village to get me into my wetsuit – and provided a bit of entertainment.  I was laughing and a bit humiliated, not in pain – despite the photo below.

Squeezing into my wetsuit was entertaining for all

Squeezing into my wetsuit was entertaining for all

We jumped in the water which was a brisk 22 Celsius (warm in their standards, freezing for me). Took awhile to get used to the BCD, suit and weights, but we descended to 90’ fairly rapidly. The current was a bit of a bitch to get used to, but we saw some amazing sea life! We swam above several white tip and Galapagos sharks which was a first and a bit intimidating.

UNDER WATER WORLD:

Diving Kicker Rock - descending to 90'

Diving Kicker Rock – descending to 90′

Santiago, our dive guide captured this beautiful manta ray, eel, fish, and starfish.  Not the best photos, but you get the gist.  Clarity was only marginal.

Kicker Rock Underwater Creatures

Kicker Rock Underwater Creatures

The second dive, on the other side of Kicker Rock, produced a huge school Galapagos sharks, a hammerhead shark, lots of sea tortoises, and some beautiful schools of fish.

Swimming with Sharks

Swimming with Sharks

We did see one hammerhead but were not able to get a clear photo of him.  He was there and then he wasn’t.

Kicker rock Fish

Kicker rock Fish

Cerro Brujo Beach Stroll:

We joined the snorkelers back on-board for some hot tea and snacks. On the way back, we stopped by Cerro Brujo to get the iconic view of Kicker Rock through the rock formation. We also enjoyed a beautiful stroll down Cerro Brujo beach (witch’s hill).

Cerro Brujo Beach Walk

Cerro Brujo Beach Walk

Matt and a Sea Wolf Practicing Yoga

Matt and a Sea Wolf Practicing Yoga

PASSAGE PREPARATIONS

Before we leave for our 1800nm passage, we needed to provision and fuel up. Luckily, we still had a lot of frozen food and a few pre-cooked meals from Costa Rica.

Fueling in the Galapagos only takes place in San Cristobal and is done with jerry cans. First, you need to tell your agent 3 days in advance when you want to fuel and how much fuel you need. We needed 150 gallons of diesel, which came in (9) sixteen gallon jerry cans, plus one can of gasoline.

On our delivery day, a panga pulled up with one driver. This should be interesting as each jerry can weighed about 130lbs a piece. After we secured the panga to Sugar Shack, the driver attempted to transfer one can off the back of his boat to our sugar scoop. Let’s just say it came on-board, but it wasn’t pretty.

The rest of the cans were hoisted using a spinnaker line off the side of the boat. Much easier and more efficient process.

We were uncertain as to the quality of the fuel, so we filtered it using our baja filter. To bad our fuel filter wasn’t working properly.  We will have to fix it for next time.  It just took a little ingenuity.

Five hours later, all filled up, we returned the jerry cans and considered it a successful day.

Refueling in Galapagos

Refueling in Galapagos

Sunset at San Cristobal

CHRISTMAS, CRUSTATIONS, & POOP

After our guests left, I flew back to the States to be with my family.  We had a family emergency that I needed to attend to before crossing the Pacific.  Matt stayed on-board and managed to complete a lot of boat projects, welcome our new guests, and cook up some crustations.

While I was away, our two friends, Ron and Sally joined Sugar Shack.  We asked them to join us as additional crew on our upcoming passage to Chile.  Matt was the perfect host and tour guide.  He showed them around Santa Cruz and San Cristobal and took them to all the hot spots.

Sally met some crustations at the fish market and picked out a few favorites for dinner

Sally picking out dinner: crustations

Sally picking out dinner: crustations

Ron had fun with all of the Charles Darwin images around the island – remarkable resemblance, don’t you think?

Ron posing next to Chuck

Ron posing next to Chuck

Once I arrived, we unloaded my two enormous bags of goodies.  Always a bit like Christmas which is especially fitting since it is so close to Santa coming.  We only have a few more days before we have to leave as Ron and Sally need to be in Chile by 3rd of January.

Christmas on San Cristobal

Christmas on San Cristobal

Unfortunately, a few, large sea lions made it past our fender barrier and on to the boat.  Normally, it would be “oh look how cute the sea lions want to come with us.”  But when you come back to this, you just want to scream and pull your hair out.  Yes, that is poop an dirt all over the cushions, floor, and side walls.

Presents from the Sea Wolves: POOP

Presents from the Sea Wolves: POOP

Matt and Ron checked out the video from our security camera.  Evidently, two sea lions rolled around every seat cushion before leaving us some early presents.

COMING UP NEXT:

We go on a dive tour with Islanders Galapagos and swim with sharks!