Monthly Archives: February 2020

Rapa Nui Dancers

Matavaa Festival: Marquesan Cultural Festival Part II

Matt and I had so much fun participating in the Matavaa festival and watching the performances.  The added bonus was being able to celebrate it with several of our friends.  Mike (Easy), Daryl, Janet, Ella and Iris (Maple), Ulrike and Matias (Bella), Sorya and Thomas (Garulfo) and Ferry and Bridget (Alrisha) were all playing with us during the event.  Be sure to catch Part I of the Matavaa Festival here

Santa Celebration near eateries

The festival took place in early December so of course there was a Santa Clause (even in French Polynesia).  We had fun taking photos with Mike (Easy) and Ulrike and Matias (Bella).

Santa in Paradise

Santa in Paradise

Crazy Photos

We saw several things that made us laugh.  Two guys in full costume and makeup walking to the stadium pushing a baby stroller.  A lady wearing a “don’t mess with Texas” shirt with the state of Texas upside down.

Things that make you smile

Things that make you smile

Anchorage Irritation

As it turns out, nobody enforced the 10-boat limit in the anchorage.  The day of the festival several boats came in and squeezed into the approved anchorage area and others just anchored by the beach.  It was frustrating.  Despite following the rules and enduring 3+ weeks of a shitty anchorage, they let these other boats just roll in here last minute.  Here is a shot with the Tahiti Nui rafted up to the Ari Nui at the dock.

Anchorage in Ua Pou

Anchorage in Ua Pou

Performances

The Matavaa performances were held multiple times a day in two main locations.  The larger, longer performances were held either in the field or the stadium.  The shorter performances were held in the pavilion.  Unfortunately, all locations had weird lighting issues so my photos are not stellar.

Performance at night

Performance at night

One of the short performances by Rapa Nui inside the pavilion.  Just look at the joy on their faces.

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Rapa Nui paired doing the fertility dance.

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They are all singing, in addition to dancing their hearts out.

Performance by Tahiti Team

Performance by Tahiti Team

The Bird Dance

Another group did the popular bird dance which is by far my favorite routine.  A few select performers, dressed in elaborate feathered costumes represent the phoenix being risen. 

Bird and Fire Dances

Bird and Fire Dances

The bird or phoenix dance was performed by each group and I never grew bored.  It was such a gorgeous dance and song that I was transfixed each time.

Bird Dance by Multiple Teams

Bird Dance by Multiple Teams

More bird dancers inside the pavilion

Bird Dance by Other Teams

Bird Dance by Other Teams

The women are so elegant and feminine in their dance.  From their delicate hand movements to their toe dancing.  The men are manly, strong, and forceful yet beautiful in their own right.

Solo Dancers

Solo Dancers

Groups dancing in the pavilion.  Not sure how they squeezed the large groups inside this small space, but they did marvelously.

Group Dancers

Group Dancers

Closing Ceremonies of the Matavaa Festival

The performers came out one last time for the closing ceremonies.  They each did 20-minute routines that were a compilation of their favorite dances.  They also presented the completed stone and wooden tikis.

Closing Ceremonies on Field

Closing Ceremonies on Field

Of course, Rapa Nui gets its own collage

Rapa Nui in Closing Ceremonies

Rapa Nui in Closing Ceremonies

One group, of about 100 people gathered in the stands for a photo op.

Closing Ceremonies One Team

Closing Ceremonies One Team

This was truly a once in a lifetime opportunity to be a part of this historical event.  The crappy anchorage was worth every minute of being able to participate in the Matavaa event.

Our friend’s on Maple shared some fabulous photos that they took at one of the events.  These are the Rapa Nui dancers from a short performance at the pavilion.

Rapa Nui Dancers

Rapa Nui Dancers

This is a group of Marquesans who currently live in Tahiti.

Tahiti Group of Dancers

Tahiti Group of Dancers

Matavaa Festival: Marquesan Cultural Festival Part I

The Marquesan Cultural Festival called “Matavaa” is only held once every four years.  The location rotates between the islands and this year it was held in Ua Pou.   It is the 12th event that will bring in participants from six Marquesan islands (Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Huka, Tahuata, Ua Pou, and Fatu Hiva).  It will also include participants with Marquesan heritage from Rapai Nui (Easter Island) and two teams from Tahiit (Maohu Nui Ahima and Toko Henua). 

This is not like most traditional festivals.  It is a cultural celebration to pass down Marquesan traditions to the younger generations through dance, song, music, tattooing (traditional and modern), and carving (wood, stone, and bone).  They do not host sporting activities, but they do have educational conferences, exhibitions of stone and wood carvings, tattooing (traditional and modern) and of course song and dance.

Opening Ceremonies

The opening ceremonies started with a parade of all the participants including dancers, musicians, artists, and delegates.  Each of the 9 groups gave a 15-20-minute performance.  They had a few speeches and raised the three flags (French, French Polynesia, and Marquesas).  After a short break, we all walked the mile back to the beach for the next ceremony.

Matavaa Opening Ceremonies

Matavaa Opening Ceremonies

Our favorite group, Rapa Nui captured my heart the first day.  Their passion and love for story telling through dance was contagious!

Rapa Nui Opening Performance

Rapa Nui Opening Performance

The next event was the receiving of the traditional Marquesan catamaran which carried the Matavaa Tiki.  Ua Pou’s dancers and drummers covered the beach while several other island performers climbed up on the rocks lining the pier.  We all awaited the arrival of the vessel.   As the small boat came in, the dancers welcomed the crew in with their sultry performances.

Welcoming the Tahiti Nui

Welcoming the Tahiti Nui

Artisan Market

An artisan market was set up near the main stadium which had many spectacular displays.  Artists were selling ukuleles, painted parchments, stone carvings, jewelry, wood carvings, baskets, purses, feathers, pearls, and oh so much more.

Artisan Market Wares

Artisan Market Wares

Celebratory Lunch

The locals hosted a free lunch for everyone.  It was really fascinating watching the preparation of the traditional pig BBQ in the ground.  The had 6 pits, cooked 3 huge pigs wrapped in banana leaves, and served in the gorgeous traditional wood serving platters. 

Preparing the Underground Pig Feast

Preparing the Underground Pig Feast

A host of volunteers served the food to all those that clambered toward the tables.  But they were very nice and super generous with the portions.

The Matavaa festival was “green” and had no plastic serving plates, utensils or cups.  Therefore, you had to bring your own or make your own with leaves.  It was an entire Marquesan meal.  We used our super cool Think Sport Travel plate with its own fork and spoon.

Free Lunch for All

Free Lunch for All

Carving of Stone

I always wondered how the stone carvings happened.  Off to the side of the main stadium were 9 covered areas with large, various shaped stone rocks.  Each island group received their rock and crafted a master piece.  The first group started with a shortish, fat rock and created 3 tiki heads of a mother and her two children.  The lower left photo is the initial rock, the lower right shows it part of the way drawn and carved, and then the final product (4 days of work).

Stone Carving Competition

Stone Carving Competition

Another really cool sculpture and its progression.

Stone Carving Competition #2

Stone Carving Competition #2

Several other stone sculptures carved at the festival.  One sculpture had a front and back.  They carved long braided hair on the back.

Stone Carving Competition #3

Stone Carving Competition #3

Carving of Tikis

Each island group received a large tree trunk to carve as they pleased.  Using numerous chain saws and other various wood carving tools they created master pieces in a matter of days!  Of course, I had a few favorites that I followed from beginning to end.  This large tiki was a true work of art.

Wood Carving Competition #1

Wood Carving Competition #1

My favorite group was from Rapa Nui.  Mostly because they had great facial expressions and looked like they truly loved doing what they were doing.  From the dancers, to the drummers, to the wood carvers.  We watched the carving of the Rapa Nui Moai from a huge tree trunk to the finished product and it was amazing.

Wood Carving Rapa Nui

Wood Carving Rapa Nui

I met this super nice man who was carving a small stone tiki.  He was so very nice and talented.  I wanted him to make me a tiki but could not imagine where I would put it.  Another carver was selling medium size wooden tikis made of rosewood at the artisan market.

Stone and Wood Carvings

Stone and Wood Carvings

Tattoo

We attended an educational conference on the history of traditional tattooing.  It was absolutely fascinating to learn why the received tattoos, what it meant, and how they were done (traditional style).  Each person would write their story on their body through tattoos.  It is not an alphabet format but rather indicative of nature.  Children do not get their first tattoo until they are about 14 years old (after their skin stops stretching).  It is a huge celebration as it indicates the transition from childhood to man/womanhood.

Traditional tattoos are implanted using tree bark and human bone.  The bone transfers “mana” into the recipient and is very painful.  It is actually called “tatto-o” like “ow.”  The top left photo is the modern tattoo process and all of the other 5 photos are traditional tattoo process. 

Tattoo: Modern and Traditional

Tattoo: Modern and Traditional

Tattoo is the telling of a story, each tattoo holds significant meaning and is placed on the body for specific relevance.

Tattoos on Performers

Tattoos on Performers

Be sure to see Part II of Matavaa Festival: Marquesan Cultural Festival Part I