Category Archives: Chile

Adventures in Chile and along the southern coast

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Valdivia Serene Beauty

It was such a relief to reach our destination.  Mainly because the point of sail we were on sucks!  Heading into the wind and current and bashing through the seas is just no fun at all.  We traveled 5-6nm  up the river to Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla.  It was breathtaking!

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla is located right next to Alwoplast which is a pretty famous boat building location for Chris White Yachts.  We had originally planned on staying at Alwoplast because we were hoping to haul the boat out for a survey.  However, we could not find any qualified surveyors in the continent.  We convinced a Brazilian surveyor to come, but he cancelled 1 week before the haul out due to illness.  Huge long, boring story but we need a new survey to obtain insurance.  Couldn’t get the survey so on to plan B.  Another time.

Alwoplast in Valdivia, Chile

Alwoplast in Valdivia, Chile

Club de Yates – Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates has two floating docks, hot showers, laundry, electricity, water, and a good wifi.  It is really small but fits our needs perfectly.  At a cost of 24,500 pesos per day ($38 USD) it was an offer we could not refuse.  The staff is extremely helpful, the bus stops right in front of the marina, and it is incredibly peaceful.

Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla docks

Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla docks

This beautiful, colorgul bird can be found in the field of the marina – do you know what it is?

Chilean Bird

Chilean Bird

We washed the boat down, took extremely hot showers and headed into town.  We were not sure which bus to take so we just hopped on the first bus heading in the right direction.  It cost about 650 pesos per person, one way.  We passed the Kuntsmann Brewery, crossed a bridge, passed through a small town with lots of eateries, crossed another bridge and arrived in the heart of Valdivia 10 minutes later.  (Follow the red squiggly line from the marina to downtown Valdivia).  The red line below starts at the lower left corner and shows you the route to downtown.

Bus route Marina to Downtown Valdivia

Bus route Marina to Downtown Valdivia

Our goal was to find Club de Yates Valdivia to meet the manager who had been assisting us.  He manages both marinas.  On our way to find him, we found two marine stores and the Armada where we checked into the port.  After a little wandering around, we decided to have lunch at the Kuntsmann brewery.

KUNTSMANN BREWERY

The Kuntsmann brewery, is a local Chilean beer that Matt has enjoyed on several occasions.  It is one of the reasons we came to Valdivia.

Kuntsmann Brewery

Kuntsmann Brewery

It was packed when we arrived.  Where did all of these people come from?  It was incredibly crowded!  Kuntsmann offers 16 flavors of beer.  And of course, Matt had to try all of them.  Luckily, they offered a flight of 16 two-ounce tasters.  After a scrumptious lunch, I made Matt tell me his top 5 which surprised even him.  Picks: Gran Torobayo, Lager, Bock, and Experimental.  Runner ups included Torobayo and IPA.

Kuntsmann Brewery

Kuntsmann Brewery

We did not have much time to explore or see the sights, but we really did enjoy Valdivia.  The bay is surrounded by huge, lush, vibrant, green trees.  After being in the desert and seeing a large variety of browns, it is a welcome change to be surrounded by so much green.

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Fun Photos

A few fun eateries we found walking around.

Kuntsmann Eateries Around Town

Kuntsmann Eateries Around Town

Notice the blood drops on the mouth of the large on on the left.  And vultures fight for food with the lobos.

More crazy lobos hanging out by the fish market

More crazy lobos hanging out by the fish market

Entrance to Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Entrance to Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

We needed fuel again.  The last few times we had to man handle huge drums of fuel, connect it to the side of our boat, and manually filter and pump into our tanks.  It would take all day to fill both of our fuel tanks.  However, the marina arranged for a fuel truck to come to the dock, drag a 150′ hose to our boat and push almost 500 liters of fuel out in less than an hour!  We felt like the mega yachts, spoiled and grateful.

Fuel in Valdivia

Fuel in Valdivia

Look for the mega yacht power boat at the far right edge of the photo.  We are just in front of him, hardly visible – that is how far the hose reached.

Alwoplast Wooden Carved sign

Alwoplast Wooden Carved sign

Fun eatery with large sunflowers

Fun eatery, Growlers with large sunflowers

Sugar Shack alone at Bahia Llucio

El Mar: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

El Mar, the sea, the ocean, the Pacific.  All the same, a challenge.  Must admit, it has been a bit frustrating traversing across this side of the ocean.  Perhaps it is our route and I am being unfair, but gesh!  The majority of our days sailing down the coast of Chile have been with the wind and current on our nose.  We can figure out how to deal with that, but then you couple those conditions with the swirly seas and it becomes downright uncomfortable.

Please refer to the “live blog on 21 February 2019” as I don’t want to be repetitive.

The 600nm trip from Quintero to Valdivia should have taken us between 5-6 days.  We padded it a little as all of our trips have taken longer than expected with the stronger currents and weather conditions.

Early on the 4th morning, we were seeing almost 2 knots of current and over 20 knots of wind pushing against us.  El mar was so squirrely that our auto pilot could not hold our course.  We had a choice.  We could either keep our heading and make it to the next safe harbor 60 miles away.  At our speed it would take us 2.5-3 days.  Or we could turn around, backtrack 40 miles and hide out in Bahia Llico.  We decided to backtrack.

Bahia Llucio

Bahia Llucio is a one horse town. Well, not literally, but there are only about 4-5 streets, 3 small tiendas, 6 restaurants, and a fish market.  We walked the entire town in 10 minutes.  However, they do have a magnificent, long beach peppered with lovely little sea shells, crabs, clams, and muscles.

The bay is surrounded by lush, green trees which is a stark difference to its Northern towns.  Fishing boats are pulled in and out to sea using a tractor and a dozen dogs are your welcoming committee.

Bahia Llucio Anchorage

Bahia Llucio Anchorage

It was cold, so we were in full cold weather gear when we went to shore.  The pack of dogs followed us on our walk down the beach.  A small herd of cows were sun bathing, but would have nothing to do with Matt.

Bahia Llucio beach walk

Bahia Llucio beach walk

We hit out in this bay for 4.5 days before a weather window presented itself.  We had 180nm to conquer against the wind, waves, and current.  El Mar was cooperating as we were leaving.  The trip started out decent enough, we had a double reef in the main for about 12 hours before taking it down.  But then, el mar started to mimic a washing machine cycle making it a really uncomfortable ride.  We forged ahead and arrived at the Valdivia mouth at dawn.  A short 2-miles up the river and we arrived at Club de Yates Marina Estancilla.

Valdivia - Club de Yates

Valdivia – Club de Yates

Some fun photos.  Matt surrounded by his computers and charts, sunset and sunrise

Matt navigating from inside

Matt navigating from inside

Sunset at sea

Sunset at sea

Sunrise at sea

Sunrise at sea

This is what it looks like when a fishing boat encroaches on your space.  Of course, this only happens at night.

Close encounter at sea

Close encounter at sea

TRIP 1 – Thwarted and had to backtrack

  • Total miles – 377
  • Total hours – 76
  • Max Speed – 11.1
  • Average Speed – 4.9

TRIP 2 – Continuation to Valdivia

  • Total miles – 199 nm
  • Total hours – 40.25
  • Max Speed – 8.3
  • Average Speed – 4.9
Humbolt Penguins Pichidangui

Pichidangui, Pichidangui, Pichidangui

Just because it is so much fun to say, “pichidangui” pronounced “pee chee don gee.”  We left Coquimbo before dawn with the hopes of making it to Punta Sierra.  It was a long shot, but we really wanted to make it there before dark.  An 80-mile trip at an average of 6kts should have taken us 13 hours. Which would have put us in right at dusk.  However, we had very little wind and what wind we had was on our nose.  We also had waves and a 1-1.5 kts current pushing us backwards.  So, as it was we could not make it before dark so we decided to carry on to Pichidangui.

We arrived in Pichidangui after 143 nm over 27 hours with an average speed of 5.3 kts.  Bright, beautiful, blue water, sun on our faces and a greeting committee.  The Club de Yates team met  us as we were circling for a good spot to anchor (kind of like a dog does to find the perfect place to pee).  They offered us a “gratis” mooring which we gladly accepted.

We went ashore to do the formalities and check out this quaint little town.  The check in process was relatively easy, strange as that has not been the case in previous ports.  We signed in at the Club, they called the Armada, and we were good to go.  Sweet.

Club de Yates Pichidangui

Club de Yates Pichidangui

We walked the entire town in less than an hour.  It is super small with two tiny “mercardos” a feria artesaneria (arts area where they sell to tourists, several dive shops and restaurants.  We decided to grab lunch at the Club restaurant with the hopes of gaining access to their wifi.

Club de Yates lunch overlooking Sugar Shack

Club de Yates lunch overlooking Sugar Shack

Humbolt Penguins

On the way back, we noticed a lot of people heading over Isla Locos a large rock off the anchorage.  People were going over there in kayacks, SUPs and little tour boats.  Hmmm.  Calls for an investigation.  We took sweetie over there and to our great surprise there penguins!  What penguins in Chile?  Yep, here is a great article on Chilean penguins.  The ones we saw are Humbolt penguins and they did not disappoint!

Isla Locos looks like it is partially covered in snow – but in reality, it is lots and lots of bird poop.  Way to ruin the illusion, right?  However, it does have some beautiful vegetation which we have not seen in the northern parts of Chile.

Isla Locos home of the birds

Isla Locos home of the birds

Humbolt Penguins of Chile

Humbolt Penguins of Chile

Humbolt Penguins of Chile

Humbolt Penguins of Chile

Birds of Isla Locos

Birds of Isla Locos

Awesome, Tranquil Bay!

When we got back to the boat, we settled in for the afternoon.  About an hour later, the Armada stopped by.  Not surprising as we called them when we arrived.  They checked our paperwork and informed us we had to go to Los Vilos to check out.  What, $hoot!

We decided we needed to go back to shore to try to find transportation to Los Vilos.  It is about 30 kilometers away, too far to walk, no taxis and no uber.  The team at CDY talked us through some options, which were slim.  Luckily, one of the guys said his dad could take us and bring us back for 25 mil pesos (or about $39).

The next day, we met Joel who drove us 30 minutes to the Los Vilos Capitaneria.  They were very nice, but exceedingly slow.  An hour later, we were back in the car on the way to Pichidangui.

A little fatigued, we decided a walk on the beach would make us feel better.  There is a 3.5 mile long beach that needed to be explored.  The sand has bright, shimmery, gold flakes all over it which makes it mesmerizing.

Gold flakes on Pichidangui's beach

Gold flakes on Pichidangui’s beach

We also walked up and around a hill and found a beautiful, little resort called Kon Tiki.  We wandered around their fort which faces the ocean and captured some fun photos.

Kon Tiki view of Phicidangui

Kon Tiki view of Phicidangui

First shot is the pool at Kon Tiki and the other shots are of the long Pichidangui beach

Pichidangui Beach

Pichidangui Beach

Bought some local art for the boat – these are made from palm fronds

Pichidanguay art work and beach walk

Pichidanguay art work and beach walk