Tag Archives: cruisers

Cruisers: All Hands on Deck in Ua Pou

The mountains are full of lots of goats.  Most of the time you can hear them but not see them.  When you do see them, they are precariously walking along the edge of a cliff or rock hundreds of meters in the sky.  They are the Ua Pou dare devils.  Occasionally, they will come down to the flat lands and grace us with their presence.  Check out the large, meaty one on the right.

Goats on Ua Pou

Goats on Ua Pou

The main anchorage in Ua Pou has one very beautiful Catholic church which I had the pleasure of visiting. The service was in Tahitian so I did not understand a single word other than “Amen.”  They did have some of the songs projected on the ceiling giving me a chance to try to sing along.  Super amusing as I don’t know the words or pronunciations, but I did my best and nobody tossed me out.

Catholic Church in Ua Pou

Catholic Church in Ua Pou

Cruisers Helping Cruisers

It is always amazing to witness the beauty of cruisers coming together to help one another out.  Being in a super tight anchorage presented a lot of different problems.  Everyone had to put out a stern anchor in addition to the bow anchor to try to minimize movement. “Try” being the operative word.

As we arrived, a French catamaran called Peneque waved us over and told us to anchor near them.  After we set the bow anchor, Matt jumped into Sweetie to set the stern anchor.  Rolan on Peneque, jumped in with him.  This allowed Matt to drive the dinghy while Rolan set the stern anchor (I was on the big boat ensuring she did not hit another boat).  See “How did we do that in Hakahau” for more details on getting here.

When Alrisha and Easy came to the anchorage, we hopped in the dinghy to help them with their stern anchors.

Alrisha Had Some Tough Times

Our friends Bridget and Ferry had a rough few weeks at Ua Pou. On a particularly windy and swelly day all hell broke loose.  Alrisha decided to stay onboard because of the severe weather conditions.  Well, to be honest, most of us stayed onboard for safety reasons.  Around mid-morning, we heard a commotion and saw Alrisha floating toward the reef and learned that she broke her stainless steel 10mm anchor chain.

The folks on Garfulo jumped in their dingy and helped them with the stern anchor, while Matt jumped in Sweetie to meet Alrisha at the dock.  The plan was to tie her to the main dock, use the stern anchor as a bow anchor and then try to find the broken chain (and anchor) for reattachment.  Within several hours, Alrisha was set to head back to the anchorage and Mike (Easy) found their broken chain.  They reattached their chain with a shorter scope and reset the stern anchor.  Later we sold them our old stainless chain which happened to also be 10mm and fit their windlass!  Talk about a blessing!

More Troubles for Alrisha

After the festival was over, Alrisha was in their dinghy heading to the dock when their outboard broke free and went for a swim.  Several local kids swam down and retrieved it using our painter from Sweetie.  They had to flush it and replace some seals, but got her running again the next day.

When we helped Mike (Easy) with his stern anchor, we leant him our old spinnaker line and 10 meters of chain to hold the line down.  Always, help someone when you can as you never know when you will need help in return.

The great thing about our cruiser friends is that they just go and help, they don’t wait to be asked and they don’t expect anything in return. Everyone helping everyone was more prevalent in Ua Pou because of the poor conditions and tight quarters.  However, it’s not just here in Ua Pou, but everywhere. 

Sorry no photos of the tough times as it was all hands-on deck.

Keeping Fit in Bonaire

Matt and I have wanted SUP boards for awhile now, but just could not invest $1k for the set and shipping.  We wanted something that could easily be stowed, easily inflated, fairly stable, and reasonably priced – we don’t ask for much, right?  The waters are pretty calm in Bonaire which makes this a perfect spot to try them out.

New, local friends, who recently bought a catamaran, were selling their two inflatable boards (paddles, bags, fins).  They thought they were too old for them as they had a hard time balancing.  As it turns out, they bought small boards (8’9″ with a maximum weight of 60 kilos or 130lbs) and for their size they should have bought the 10’9″ standard inflatable boards.  They loaned them to us to see if we liked them and let me tell you it was HARD!  I had SUP’d before, but it was on Lake Austin on a 10’9″ standard board (non-inflatable), in no wind.  Didn’t have much of a problem then, but this was a very different story!

Matt seemed to tame the board almost immediately.  Not only was he able to stand up on the board, but he stayed up and paddled around mooring area.  I managed to get up (after falling in a few times) and managed to paddle around the boat, on my knees not standing upright, but it still felt like a accomplishment!

Several days later, after a few attempts and a few falls I was finally able to stand for a short up. Of course that all changed when a wave came, or a boat drove by, or a gust kicked up.

SUP

SUPing around the boat. Concentrating very hard on staying upright.

SUP

Oh dear, this is not good – so close to the boat too!

SUP

Yep, knew that was coming! Of course Matt captured the moment.

In addition to our SUP adventures and daily walking in Bonaire, we also have a great group of people who enjoy water aerobics or Noodling on the Sea.  Our friend leads the hour long class every Tuesday and Thursday where all are welcome.

Noodling on the sea in Bonaire.

Noodling around and getting some exercise.

Noodling on the Sea

Bonaire current carried us too far away so we are swimming back to position

Cruiser

Cruisers Helping Cruisers

I find it hard to explain my relationships with other cruisers to my land lubber friends – do other cruisers have this problem too?  One type of relationship does not demean the other in any way, but they are uniquely different.

With other cruisers you have a shared way of life, comparable highs and lows, and similar problems and solutions to those problems (be it mechanical, electrical, plumbing, etc…).  You are thrust together into a situation where you know the other is transient and will move on and you may or may not see them again for months or years. Yet, you instinctively find yourself bonding and relying on other cruisers rather quickly.

In the small sailing community of Bonaire (there are 42 moorings), Matt and I have had to good fortune to meet, assist, benefit from, and enjoy many new cruiser friendships.  It is a community, where like so many other cruising communities, where you rely on others to help you.  And I just wanted to share a few examples of cruisers helping cruisers:

  1. Cindy, Jane, and Rose walk me daily (yes, I need to be walked to keep my joints from barking and having a regular walking group motivates us all).
  2. On one of our walks I mentioned our Splendide washer/dryer issue and Cindy on Tranquility mentioned she has had the same problem with her machine and might have spare parts.  Their machine has given up and they generously gifted us with multiple spare parts enabling us to repair our machine without having to ship parts from the U.S.
  3. About a week later, the fridge/freezer compressor decided to take a hiatus on Cindy’s boat, so we stored frozen tuna, salmon, steak and shrimp in our freezer until their compressor arrived – it was a challenge not to cook up some of that amazing fish!
  4. Jane has had some engine issues right when she needed to move into the marina to do rigging work.  Cindy, Lee, Matt, and I used our dinghies as propulsion (a whopping 3 km/hour) to get them to the marina and Dan and Rose assisted with docking – everything went smoothly!
  5. Moorings are far and few between this year with so many boats here from the hurricane ravaged islands and Bonaire’s 50th regatta anniversary, so when one boat moves another is on it immediately. Some moorings are temporary and you cannot be on them during the regatta, other moorings are better for smaller or shorter boats, and yet other spots have better moorings (concrete blocks vs. sand screws).  So, we pre-arranged a mooring swap:  when Cheetah II went into the marina, Sugar Shack took their mooring and Badger’s Set took our mooring.
  6. Wifi is a hot commodity on a boat and we are constantly shuffling to see where we can get the best signal.  Matt helped Ad Astra with some cables and connectors until they were set up and then worked with them to diagnosis and repair their wash down pump, engine, and compressor.
  7. Ad Astra has generously taken Matt and I out on several dive excursions, filled our tanks, taught us tricks and tips for better diving, loaned us equipment and oh so much more!
  8. Matt lent his muscles to Mara who is replacing their main sail and needed assistance removing their old sail since it is big and bulky.
  9. Pay it Forward:  Matt is always one of the first people in the water when a dinghy is in trouble offering a tow.  You never know when you will need one yourself.
  10. Earlier this year, Matt and I had taken our dinghy to shore (St. Barth’s) to go on a big hike and the tide came up sweeping Sweet N Low into the sea.  Many other boaters rushed to our aid (unbeknownst to us) to retrieve her and place her safely back on shore. Pay it forward.
  11. Bonaire did not have a forum where other cruisers could communicate (no morning net or Facebook page), so I created a Bonaire Cruisers Facebook group for information sharing.
  12. Matt and I met our friends Exit Strategy (Rose and Dan) and Jane at a dive site called “Cliff” but someone was already on that mooring, so we took another mooring that was fairly close.  Typically you are not supposed to tie two boats up to one mooring, but our dinghies are small so we thought why not.  We assembled our gear, jumped in and began our dive.  When Jane came up, she noticed that the dinghies were missing, WTF?  Some locals shouted that they were drifting away so she flagged a dive boat that picked Matt up so that they could retrieve the dinghies.  Luckily they had two huge engines and were able to get them before they made it to Venezuela – they had drifted several miles before Matt retrieved them.

 

Dive boat retrieving our dinghies that floated away.

Dive boat retrieving our dinghies that floated away.

This is all in addition to the shared recipe’s (thank you Exit Strategy and Noel’s Delight), tips for cleaning, cooking, baking, and sewing.  Life on a boat is so much easier with the feedback and guidance of others.

If it is not one thing it’s another as things break on a boat and parts are not always easy to come by on a remote island.  Having other cruisers to rely on makes it so much easier.

Good friends!

Me, Cindy and Jane.