Tag Archives: Kanlildup island

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Green Island, Panama

We had a lazy start, might be because rum was involved or because we were lulled to sleep by two pretty large thunderstorms. After we stowed the secondary anchor and cleaned up the boat, we headed to Green Island also known as Kanlildup.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

The wind did not cooperate, as we headed toward Green Island and continued to be on our nose. With our fuel tanks less than ¼ tank full, we are doing our best to conserve our diesel. But, having the wind on our nose and lots of shoals on either side of us makes it challenging to tack safely under sail. So, we motor on…

As a side note, Matt and I had wanted to fill our fuel tanks in Santa Marta, but Columbia only sold 5% bio-diesel. We could have put an additive in to make the bio-diesel burn better, but we did not want to mix fuels. So we left leave Santa Marta with our tanks less than half full.

Along the way, we pass many islands that look very inviting….after all there are 382 islands in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

Sailing (or in our case motoring) from Columbia, heading west, the islands start to become more populated with other cruisers. The Eastern San Blas islands were very desolate, remote, and not considered tourist destinations. However, as we head up the chain, we start spotting other boats and cruisers. In fact, we passed our first sail boat on the way to Green Island.

Green island’s popularity has grown over the years because it offers cruisers a nice protected bay with great snorkeling, and it is close to Rio Diablo. It’s covered with palm trees, large and small, creating a dense space of greenery.

Approaching Green Island

Approaching Green Island

Entering the anchorage, we quickly found several boats anchored around other small islands. Luckily, none are near Green Island so we have it to ourselves, for today. Not long after we anchored, a small dugout approached us with a woman, man, and small child. So, the “boat boys” begin.

To our surprise, this was the famous master mola maker and infamous transvestite, Lisa from Rio Sidra. We had read about her in our cruising guide and several cruisers had posted about her handy work. She took out each of her molas, one by one, explaining the design and intricacies of her work. She travels 4 hours from her main island to come sell her goods to tourists. As tourists don’t visit her island.  She shares the profits with her village and other mola makers.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

A traditional mola is several layers of fabric, between 3 to 7 and very intricate. A “fake” or non-traditional mola uses applique. I purchased a mermaid 5 layer mola and quickly turned it into a pillow

My new mola turned into a pillow.

My new mola turned into a pillow.