Tag Archives: maramu

Ouch

Disaster Strikes – Maramu

One of the reasons we decided to tie up to the old basin was because there was a maramu (storm) in the forecast and we wanted to avoid a disaster.  The four boats in the basin took all of the necessary precautions – or so we thought.  Let me paint a picture.

The old military basin is an upside down “U” shape with the entrance at the opening of the U.  The wall on the right, facing the lagoon is taller and has a 42’ mono and Sea Jay 50’.  The taller wall proved to be a life saver for these two boats.  The opposite side of the U, where we are, faces the shore.  The wall is at an angle where we are tied up and then it straightens out where a mono and our friends on Hoodoo are located.

Preparing for a Maramu

Holding us to the dock were (2) bow lines (one from port and one from starboard bow peaks), (2) spring lines and (2) stern lines (port and starboard).  In addition, we had (4) large, round A4 fenders and (2) F4 fenders between us and the dock and al of the fenders were touching the water when we went to bed.  Everything was secured and stowed on the deck and bow.  But we did leave up our sun/rain shades to try to prevent a flood of water coming into the cockpit.  We also left out our cushions which are “secured” to the boat.  

We’ve been through several maramus and we were not expecting a disaster.  Normal water level is shown below.  The tide flooded the basin so much that the bottom of Sugar Shack’s Port hull threatened to land on top of the dock.

Maramu Strikes

Fast forward to 11:30pm at night when Matt and I are woken up by a horrible bashing noise, winds blowing over 42kts, thunder, and lightning, and pounding rains.  We jumped up and realized SS was banging (not rubbing) against the concrete wall.  The lagoon was filled so high that it flooded the basin raising the water level at least 1.5 meters.  That in and of itself would not have been bad if it was not accompanied by a meter swell which tossed SS almost on top of the dock several times. 

It took Matt, Yanell, Missy and I everything we had to keep her safe.  In the pouring rain, we added (4) more F4 fenders between the boat and tried to push SS off the dock.  About an hour later the storm subsided and we saw the damage — a rather large 1/4” dent that was about 1 meter wide with lots of scratches.  Nothing we can do in the middle of the night.

Maramu is Not Done with Us

Then at 0230 another, stronger storm hit.  We had lowered all the fenders and placed fenders floating in the water to prevent SS from continuing to bash against the concrete.  What a disaster! Running between SS and HooDoo to make sure all of our boats were safe.  If you can imagine the rain falling so hard that it actually hurt our faces!  We could not wear hats because the wind would blow them off.  It was terrible.  Unfortunately, SS took the brunt of the storm because we were closest to the entrance and on the slanted part of the dock.  We blocked the majority of the waves and storm from Queen B and HooDoo.  (Nice of us, right?)

Around 0400 the weather calmed enough for Matt to go out in the dingy to put an anchor out in the middle of the basin.  He then attached it to our starboard mid-cleat to pull the boat further off the wall.  Around 0430 we finally got an hour of sleep.  By sunrise we were evaluating the damage and trying to figure out what else we can do to prepare for Thursday’s storm.  We added a stern line from starboard to a mooring pulling the stern further away from the wall and adjusted all the lines and fenders again. Luckily Thursday night was only 30-35kts of wind, little rain, and no flooding.  We scared it away with all of our preparedness.

The Damage

We almost lost one of our 2-meter cockpit cushions and a sunshade.  Both caught up by the lifelines and saved.  We had one sunshade tear before we could get it off and we lost 2 fender covers.  But the worst damage is the hull which could have been a much bigger disaster.  We don’t think there is structural damage.  We have a thin layer of fiberglass, then honeycomb, then fiberglass.  But there is about a 1/4” dent with lots of scratches that stretch across 2 meters of the port hull.  We will have to repair it when we are hauled out (Tahiti or NZ).

Sea Jay lost a small cockpit cushion but found it the next morning as a local was carrying it and walking away.  Lucky them.  HooDoo and Queen B have some small scratches on the hull that will buff out.  Yesterday we spent the day adding anchors and lines to all the boats to keep them off the dock making the basin an obstacle course but will help us avoid further disaster. 

The good news is that we are all safe and unhurt.  The boat can be mended.  We are lucky.

Weather Predictions Get it Wrong

Matt took a screen shot of Predict Wind’s screen which showed what was predicted and what came through.  Unfortunately, it does not give minute by minute updates. In addition, it never accurately showed the wind strength, amount of rain or correct wind direction.   But it gives you an idea of how “off” weather predictions can be. In and of itself that is a disaster. 

This post was written in June 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 8 to 10 weeks behind are true adventures. 

Blue Eyed Sacred Eels

Huahine: Sacred Eels and Distillery

Is it wrong to visit a distillery after feeding sacred eels?  Hmmm…I guess its better than visiting the distillery first?  We continued our exploration of Huahine by car and stopped at “Anguilles Sacrees” which means “Sacred Eels.”

I am sure you are wondering who would deem eels sacred? Legend has it that a charming prince courted and wanted to marry the King’s daughter.  However, the Kind did not approve of the union and transformed the prince into an eel.  The locals don’t want to kill or eat the eels for fear of eating the prince.

They have beautiful shells, benches, and lovely gardens around the fresh water run off where the eels linger.

Sacred Eels Sanctuary

Sacred Eels Sanctuary

We planned ahead and brought sardines with us to feed and honor them.  I will admit that there were not the prettiest thing to gaze upon, but there was something fascinating about them.  They were huge and seemed to use their sense of smell more than their sense of sight.  Which is odd being that they have electric blue eyes.  Unfortunately, their eyes did not come through in the photo.

Sacred Eels of Huahine

Sacred Eels of Huahine

MARAMU LEAVES A TRACE

We drove all around Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti.  For the most part the road was in really good shape as it wound around the mountains and edged up to the water.  However, the maramu left its mark in several places making it challenging to forge ahead.  At one point we passed a dump truck clearing the road way.

Maramu leaves a trail of destruction

Maramu leaves a trail of destruction

ANINI

We came across another set of Marae along the water’s edge that formed an immense wall.

Anini Marae Stone Temples

Anini Marae Stone Temples

I am sure these would be gorgeous photos had it been a sunny day.

Vista Views on Huahine

Vista Views on Huahine

DISTILLERIE HUAHINE PASSION

The small island has a distillery.  They make dozens of flavored liquors and sell them to the tourists.  They don’t have an online business or export to any other island. All of their business is by word of mouth.  The Distillery was an impressive little operation and remained crowded the entire time we were there.  It was better than any happy hour we’ve been too – they were heavy handed on the pours and wanted us to try every flavor.  Not possible considering their “lite” stuff was 22 proof and their heavy stuff was 55 proof.  Some tasted like fire!  But, we walked away with a Huahine rum and a Dried Banana Liqueur (over ice or ice cream).

Distillery Huahine

Distillery Huahine

The photo collage below shows a giant stone welcoming visitor to Huahine.  Below it are stones from its neighboring islands.  The top right photo is the bay where Sugar Shack is anchored (she is the catamaran on the left) and the bottom is a sweet horse grazing on the shores of the bay where we anchored.

Fare Bay in Huahine where Sugar Shack is anchored

Fare Bay in Huahine where Sugar Shack is anchored

Marae Stone Temples in Maeve

Huahine: The Authentic Polynesian Island

A deep crystal-clear lagoon surrounds the two islands that comprise Huahine.  On shore you will find lush forests, untamed landscape, and eight quaint villages.  Green vibrant mountains are met by white sandy beaches at each of the numerous bays.  The interior offers a variety of cultivated fields including watermelon, vanilla, bananas, and cucumbers.  Huahine offers the true authentic Polynesia experience. Huahine is pronounced “way-a-hee-knee.”

There are four villages or districts on the big island of Huahine Nui and four on the small island of Huahine Iti.  Most of the inhabitants live a rural life growing melons and seasonal fruits.  The first evidence of colonization appears to be 850 AD.  The original name of the island was “Matairea” or “Happy Wind” and nobody seems to know what the name was changed.  Huahine is translates to “Hua” means “sex” and “hine” means “woman” in Tahitian.  This island pays homage to women as one of the mountains looks like a pregnant woman laying on her side.

Formation of Huahine

Thee distinct volcanic eruptions formed Huahine.  However, there are two legends that dispute this finding. The first powerful legend asserts that the god Hiro cut the island in half with his canoe.  Whereas the second prevailing legend states that Mt. Moua Puta (on Mo’orea) was pierced by spears during a contest among gods.  The pieces of the mountain then sailed 100 miles where it split Huahine in two.

Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti

Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti

There is a certain aurora on the island that exudes mystery and intrigue.  It is exceptionally beautiful and green, even on a hazy, stormy day.  We hunkered down a lot because we are still immersed in the “maramu.”  However, we did rent a car to drive around the island.  We preferred to rent bikes or scooters but the weather was such that those modes of transport would be no fun.  Our first stop was the town of Maeva to see the archaeological ruins called “marae”.

Stone Temple Mecca

The famous archaeological sites near the village of Maeva include the largest concentration of pre-European marae (stone temples) in Polynesia.  There are more than 200 archeological stone structures that have survived for centuries.  They include marae of island chieftains, dwellings, horticultural developments, and religious and ceremonial monuments.

Fare Pote’e

In the center of the village is the “Fare Pote’e” which means “oval house”.  The chief lived here and held community meetings.  Fare Pote’e was originally built in the town of Fare.  But when the missionaries came they destroyed it.  The locals rebuilt it in the neighboring village of Maeve in 1972.  They had to rebuild the Fare Pote’e in 1996 after a cyclone destroyed it.  The roof is reconstructed every eight years using local trees.   It takes the town a month to rebuild the roof each time.  The floors are woven into an intricate pattern out of bamboo that is soft on your feet.

Fare Pote'e and Marae in Huahine

Fare Pote’e and Marae in Huahine

As you can tell from the photos, we have had a lot of rain and wind from the maramu. I am sure this is stunningly beautiful on a normal Polynesian day.  There were lots of “marae” surrounding the Fare Pote’e but we could not access them due to the surrounding water (that is not normally there).

Marae flooded due to Maramu

Marae flooded due to Maramu

Stay tuned for more adventures on Huahine as we feed the sacred eels, brave the maramu destruction and visit a distillery. H