Category Archives: Marquesas Islands

Including: Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Huka, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Hiking Nuku Hiva

We begrudgingly left Daniel’s Bay to head back to Taihoe Bay. It was a quick hour motor back to the main anchorage where we secured a spot near the west end of the bay close to the small resort.  We had a “changing of the guards” so to speak where Wayne would be leaving us in a few days and Shawn and Sharon were coming on board in Nuku Hiva.  Both Shawn and Sharon are big runners so we planned several hikes during their visit.  

After the Melnar’s arrived, we headed back to the boat to begin celebrating their arrival.  It was a fabulous evening of good friends, cold drinks, and tasty food.  It’s been awhile since all 5 of us were together and it felt glorious!

Bon Voyage Wayne!

The next day we dropped Wayne off at the taxi and said our sad goodbyes.  Since, we were already on shore we decided to do the hike to Collette’s Bay.  We were able to walk Shawn and Sharon through town, the artisan market, and fresh produce market along the way.

We also swung by the beautiful Nuku Hiva Catholic church which has some amazing wood and stone carvings.

Church on Nuku Hiva

Church on Nuku Hiva

HIKE TO COLETTE’S BAY

Our “late start” of 1130 meant it was hot, hot, hot during our walk.  The first 1.5 miles of the “hike” is a walk down the road.  Then the road disappears and it becomes a dirt path.  The trail is well marked and easy to follow.  The last 1-1.5 miles is up hill until you reach the beach shores.

We enjoyed a few hours in the water before heading back.  A little piece of paradise hidden in Nuku Hiva.

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Shawn and Sharon Colette’s Bay

Of course, Matt had to be part of the photo shoot

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Hike total distance 5.8 miles, 14,243 steps, and 22 floors climbed.

CONTROLLER’S BAY

A short, but uncomfortable motor from Taihoe Bay to Hakahaa Bay (Controller’s Bay) was into the wind and waves.  We decided to leave early while it was a little calmer, but still encountered 2-meter seas.  Luckily Shawn and Sharon weathered through it and we arrived without incidence. 

Controller’s Bay has three “lobes” or bays where you can anchor.  Most people anchor in the middle one because it is bigger, has good holding, and is where the village is located.  The village consists of three small magasins, a medical center, post office, artisan center, and a church.  This is the main community area, artisan market, and performance area during festivals.

Artisan Market and Performance Area

Artisan Market and Performance Area

We had heard that there is a pretty waterfall hike in Controller’s Bay.  Of course, we did not have directions and the location was not clearly explained in the compendium (cruiser information sharing document we use).  It was not on maps.me or any of our other map apps.  Well, how hard can it be to find a waterfall?

The Elusive Waterfall

We started down the one road and headed toward the mountains.  Surprisingly, it was a nice paved road through “town” and toward what we thought was the path to the waterfall.  The hike was supposed to be 2-hours, but we did not know if it was 2-hours each way or round trip. 

After walking down the road for about 90 minutes, we spotted a waterfall.  We all hoped it was not the waterfall we were supposed to be heading to as it was really far away (top photo below).

Matt and Sharon decided to head back shortly after spotting the waterfall.  Shawn and I decided to continue on to the “waterfall overlook.”  Probably not the smartest decision.  Shawn is recovering (nicely) from knee surgery late last year and I was in flip flops. 

Another 2 miles later and about ¾ of a mile from our waypoint, a small vehicle came up the road.  I stuck my thumb out hoping for a ride.  They stopped and wouldn’t you know it they recognized my Sugar Shack hat.  We climbed in the back of their little truck and they took us to where maps.me indicated a lookout was located.  Nice view, but not lookout and no waterfall.  We had gone from 600’ elevation to 1200’ elevation and had already hiked 4.5 miles.  Top photo is the original waterfall and bottom photo is the “lookout” view of no waterfall (bottom photo below).

Controller's Bay Failed Hike

Controller’s Bay Failed Hike

Worn Out

We were both tired and ill prepared, but continued on back towards town.  By the time we got to town, we had no money, out of water, and had a few blisters to show for our 9-mile hike.  Again, probably not the best decision, but an interesting adventure.  We did come across a heard of baby piglets which were cute.

Little Piglets

Little Piglets

Hike total distance was 8.9 miles, 20,546 steps, and 61 floors climbed (1/4 mile assisted by a truck).

A Reprieve for us all

Once back on the boat, we headed for a little sandy islet where we hung out in the water and rested our weary bones.  Shawn found the energy to paddle over, but Matt drove Sharon and I in the dinghy – thank goodness.

Shawn paddling to beach

Shawn paddling to beach

Did you read our last post about Daniel’s Bay and our hikes there?

Coming up next:

We explore Anaho bay together.  Located on the north coast of Nuku Hiva.

Hakatea Bay with Peneque

Hakatea Bay – Daniel’s Bay

Hakatea Bay also known as “Daniel’s Bay” is just around the corner from the main village of Taihoe in Nuku Hiva.  But it might as well be another island as it is so different.  There are about 10-12 people that live in this little piece of paradise.  A small white sandy beach is surrounded by towering mountains that glitter in the sun.  It was so hard to capture on camera, but the trees were truly golden against the deep black crevices of the hillside. 

The top photo is of one side of the bay, the center is the golden hillside and the bottom is the actual palm tree lined beach where the locals live.

Hakatea Bay = Daniel's Bay

Hakatea Bay = Daniel’s Bay

There is no dinghy landing so we had to get creative with “Sweetie.”  The first time we went to shore we dragged her on the beach.  Always a challenge as she is heavy and has a 25hp outboard on the stern which makes it even more difficult.  We had Wayne and a fender which helped.  Basically, we slipped the round fender under the dinghy and rolled it under Sweetie to get her up the sand dune. 

Beauty of Daniel’s Bay

We were blown away by how unique and beautiful this village is. Tropical flowers, plants and trees line the single dirt road from the beach to each house.  Tons and tons of fruit trees are all around, pomplemouse, avocado, mango, lemon, breadfruit, noni and more.

Hike to waterfall in Daniel;s Bay

Hike to waterfall in Daniel;s Bay

There is a freshwater stream that runs along the “town” that enables them to bring their boats in during high tide.  A super small, but efficient church, a cemetery on the hillside and very practical homes.

Daniel's Bay village

Daniel’s Bay village

Each home had a sign indicating the address of the inhabitant.  Either carved in stone or etched in a piece of wood.

Local plot claims

Local plot claims

Waterfall Hike

Daniel’s Bay (Hakatea Bay) is known for the tallest waterfall in French Polynesia.  The locals told us that the falls would be “dry” because it is summertime.  However, it is still a pretty nature walk so we forged ahead.  The trail continued down the main dirt road lined with beautiful and colorful flora and fauna.  At one point, it looked like it was covered in snow from the pods that fell and littered the walkway with white fuzz.

One road in Daniel's Bay

One road in Daniel’s Bay

The road turned into forest and became more of a small path.  Lots of rocks, boulders and ruins could be found here.  You could certainly find remnants of an old village which was fascinating.

Ruins along the path to the waterfall

Ruins along the path to the waterfall

After 1.5 hours we arrived at the “waterfall” or what I like to call a “trickle fall” since there was truly very little water coming down the mountain.  It sure was pretty and we could imagine how breathtaking it was.

Hakatea Bay Waterfall

Hakatea Bay Waterfall

At the bottom of the “falls” is a fresh water pool, but it was stagnant and not too appealing.  However, when you turned your back to the falls you were surrounded by lush greenery and mountains.

Just a couple of posers

Just a couple of posers

Hike to Waterfall in Hakaui was 6 miles, 15,838 steps and up 14 floors.  A good workout.

Lunch Local Style

On the way to the waterfall, we ran into Kua and Tieki who are known for their tasty cuisine.  We told them we would be back for lunch around noon.  Matt and Wayne are part goat and practically ran up and back from the falls.  We finished the hike in just over 3 hours so we had time to kill before lunch.

When we arrived, two other cruisers were seated under the awning and little table was set up in their garden for Matt, Wayne and I.  It so pretty to be in the middle of the fruit trees, flowers and plants.  They grilled lobster for me and goat for the boys.  It was pretty darn tasty and not bad for a total of $40.

Lunch with Teiki and Kua

Lunch with Teiki and Kua

Beach Walk

We needed to walk off our large lunch so we took the dinghy to a neighboring beach.  We found lots of crabs and had fun playing with a rather large one and a stick.  The poor thing must have been traumatized because he hid in my footprint after we left.

Beach walk and crab friends

Beach walk and crab friends

To our great surprise, our neighbors from Ua Pou, Peneque showed up and anchored next to us.  They were the super nice French people who heled us out and never squawked at us for bumping fenders for 3 weeks during the festival.

Hakatea Bay with Peneque

Hakatea Bay with Peneque

70 kilo Marlin

Catch of the Year: 70 Kilo Marlin

As much as we loved the Bay of Virgins, we had to leave. It was time to start making our way toward Nuku Hiva.  Which is where we will pick up Shawn and Sharon and drop off Wayne.  We decided to make a slow trip north stopping at a few of our favorite places.  And of course, we were going to fish along the way.  Little did we know what was in store for us – a 70 kilo (150lb) marlin.

We left the Bay of Virgins and set course for Hanamoenoa Bay at Tahuata.  It is a 55nm sail so we left as soon as I returned from shore with bags of fruit, around 0800.  Under full sail (we had 1 reef in the main), with 3 lures out, we heard the zing.  We were about 20nm into our trip.  Lucky for us it was on one of the bigger poles and reels.  The fish was a fighter and spooled the entire reel.  We could see it jumping and twisting in the distance behind the boat.  It was not happy.  We slowed the boat down, pulled in our other lures and began the process of bringing her in.

It took Wayne about 90 minutes to slowly reel this beast in.  It did not do the in/out thing that the huge yellow fin tuna did with Matt, but it sure gave Wayne a work out.  Both boys struggled to bring her in.  She was heavy, huge, and armed with a pointy snout. 

70 kilo Marlin

70 kilo Marlin

Finally on the boat, now what?

It was a challenge to get this big fish on the boat as we did not want to puncture the boat with its sharp nose!  And it weighed 70 kilos (150lbs)

Getting her on the boat

Getting her on the boat

We filled both freezers and our fridge.  Man oh man we needed to share this wonderful bounty!

We filled the galley sink twice over.  Matt wore his trophy with pride.

Lots of marlin meat

Lots of marlin meat

Everyone was exhausted by the time we arrived to the anchorage.  Cold beers were enjoyed and then our friends on Flip Flops stopped by for some sun downers.  Of course, we promptly unloaded 25lbs of fish on them which left a whopping 125lbs in our freezers.

Proud fisherman

Proud fisherman

The next day, Flip Flops was going to follow us from Tahuata to Vaiehu, Ua Pou.  However, when we arrived to the bay it was really rolly and uncomfortable so we both decided to continue on to Nuku Hiva, Taihoe bay.

Arrived Taihoe Bay at 1130pm (left at 0530) little wind, motor sail.

Next morning played santa delivering pounds of the Marlin to Easy, Maple, Bella, Imani, Rhapsody, and Jolly Dogs.  So, basically or fish fed 8 boats (including Flip Flop and us) at least 5-6 meals each. 

We did not stay long as this was not our intended stop.  We headed a few miles west to Hakatea Bay otherwise known as Daniel’s Bay.