Whangamumu: Echoes from a Forgotten Whaling Harbour”

Whangamumu is one of Northland’s favorite anchorage.  The bay is large and picturesque, with solid holding, and great hiking treks.

The history of Whangamumu can be considered pretty ugly.  So before we dive into that let me share some beautiful photos of this peaceful anchorage.

Waterfall Hike

Just beside the whaling station is a small path that leads to a waterfall.  Lucky for us it had just rained so the water fall was flowing nicely.  Unlucky for us in that with the rain came some severe storms which caused a mess on the path.

It took us less than 10 minutes to get to the base of the falls.

Matt decided to hike up the falls (in his flip flops) and captured some more photos. 

Can you find me in the left photo and Matt in the right?

The Whaling Station at Whangamumu

Note:  Whaling is now considered abhorrent.  However, back in the day, it was a way to feed families, and provide oil for lighting and more.

This bay is best known for its remote, abandoned whaling station

This was once a bustling industrial site.  It was established in the 1800’s and expanded into a full processing station by 1910.

It was Northland’s longest running whaling operation which finally shutdown in 1940. 

However, rusting machinery and concrete ruins are left behind.  The natural bush is slowly taking over creating an eerie yet beautiful site.

Why was Whangamu’s Whaling Station Unique?

It is believed to be the only whaling station in the world that used nets to catch the whales. 

Most of the operations used boats and harpoons.

During its peak, this operation had processing plants, boilers, slipways, and oil vats that lined the shore. 

Up to 70 whales a year were caught and processed here.  Every part of the whale was used and nothing was wasted.

The whaling station was finally closed due to economic issues and the steep decline in the humpback whale population.

From shore you can just make out the large concrete vats where they used to collect the oil.

We believe this is an old heat exchanger of some sort. 

We were not sure if the concrete wall was added later or if it was part of the original build.

There were lots of bits and pieces on the grounds.  Can you make out what any of them used to do?

There were three signs.  However, only two of them were legible.

The old slip where the men winched the whales to the plant is still partially seen offshore. 

As very sad part of history. 

However, with conservation efforts the humpback whales are  returning to their former glory.

Find Whangamumu on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts are 6 weeks behind actual live events.  We enjoyed the beautiful bay of Whangamumu around mid-April 2026.

Majestic Maitai Bay

Maitai Bay is a super special anchorage with pristine twin bays.  You can find Maitai tucked on the Karikari Peninsula in Northland, far north New Zealand.

We have wanted to visit this tiny anchorage for a few years.  However, you need good weather to make it this far North.  In addition, you have to have fairly settled conditions to stay in the bay.

Sporty Passage

We left Whangaroa heading North 25nm to Maitai Bay.  We did not expect the big winds (gusts up to 38kts) and choppy seas.  It was a bash into the waves for 4.5 hours!

Not a pleasant day at all. 

However, as we neared the anchorage we were greeted by a huge flock of little black birds.

The two beaches are absurdly clean and peppered with sea shells and pebbles. 

The beautiful towering mountains shelter the beaches from the strong winds typically associated with the Northland.

Beach Walk

We decided we needed to “touch land” as soon as we set the anchor.  

It was low tide so we had a very large, beautiful beach to walk on.  

There were sections covered in pebbles and rocks and other sections covered with shells.

There is great snorkeling just beyond these rocks. 

However, the water was way too cold for us to even consider swimming here.

It is unfortunate that we were not able to spend more time in Maitai Bay. 

There are several beaches to explore and a few other hikes.

We visited Maitai Bay mid-April 2026.

Find Maitai Bay on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts run 6 weeks behind actual live events.

Baguette search success

Well there you have it. Goal achieved

Baguette has arrived

Arrived yesterday morning, as planned, through pass at sunrise, can’t see the reefs until you are right there and just a change in wave behavior above them

The light house is there to guide you in.

Lighthouse at daybreak

Welcomed into the lagoon with this sight.

A welcome squall

A crazy run around to get immigration process complete before they closed at noon? Best government job ever.

A couple of beers and pizza with friends who met us at the dock and grabbed our lines and secretly dropped off some French pastries for breakfast. There was a band at the marina bar, started at 6pm… don’t think I was awake for the end of the first song.

What started out as 880nm trip, turned into 1047nm. I took the scenic route. Don’t know if it was more comfortable or not, I do know it was full day longer than following the direct route. There was some nice sailing in the middle part, but the beginning and end were definitely not champagne sailing, you would have missed your mouth with the champagne flute on every sip. We averaged 7.5 knots for the trip which is pretty good for a long passage.

Anyway cheers signing off till our next passage.