The Charming Town of Russell

Sugar Shack left her anchorage at Urupukapuka and headed to Pomare Bay which is close to the charming town of Russell.

We landed the dinghy at the Russell Boating Club and walked 15-minutes into town.  

This is a super cute place with loads of restaurants, cafes, bars, shops, and tourist attractions.

We shared a super tasty burrata pizza at the famous Hones Garden!  They have a lovely outdoor patio and beautiful ambiance.

Matt and I took Jason around town to all of the quirky stops we love.  The boys fried their brains with the Easter bunny and posed for me at the docks.

We then rewarded ourselves with some famously delicious New Zealand ice cream.

Paihia Dinner

Later that night we met our friends Jim and Pam (sv Roam).  We all took the dinghies to the Russell Boating Club, walked into town and hopped on the ferry.

The feery costs $10NZD to take the 15 minute ferry ride from Russell to Paihia. 

The girls walked around and did a little shopping while the boys enjoyed a frosty beer.

We then at like royalty at Bad Habits.  Matt and Jason shared a huge tomahawk steak, Jim had a scotch filet, and Pam and I enjoyed some chicken tacos.

This was our last night with Jason onboard.  The boys celebrated with Diplomatico rum. 

The next morning we all got up before dawn.  Matt took Jason in to the Russell ferry dock at 6:30am.  He caught the 7am ferry to Paihia then jumped on the 7:45am bus to Auckland.  The poor guy had a long way to go to get home but the smile never fades.

It was such a pleasure having Jason onboard.  He intuitively knew what to do on our boat.  The few things he did not know, he asked and picked up very quickly.  He was extremely helpful, easygoing, and very fun to be around!

We are hoping he comes back soon!

Q&A with Jason

Before Jason left I asked him a few questions.

Share your most memorable moments?

  • After I got sick on our night passage I was able to fully take in the beauty of sailing at night.
  • Waking up to the beautiful bay at Whangamumu (after arriving in the dark the night before).
  • All the lovely people (cruisers and locals)
  • All of the fabulous walks (the Hatea Loop, the Whangarei Hike, Whangamumu walk, Urupukapuka hike)

What surprised you the most?

  • The big difference between chartering and cruising full time.
  • The amount of work you have to do to live this life.  You have to wear many hats (chef, mechanic, plumber, electrician, builder, captain) to keep all systems running smoothly.
  • Realization of how really far away you are to get help to do work or get work done.

What did you learn sailing on Sugar Shack?

  • Sailing with the windvane.  
    • Cruisers only sail with the windvane when they are far away from land and have many miles to sail.  You steer to the wind to keep the sails full as opposed to sailing to the course.
  • Impressed with how Matt and Christine anchor.  Sugar Shack has a well practiced routine using hand signals to communicate 
  • Set the anchor alarm as soon as the anchor drops, not after it is set.
  • Surprised by the rationing of everything.  On a 7-day charter you run the water like you do on land and just fill up half way through the trip.  On a live aboard you are rationing water, fuel, and power.
  • Learned how to use the German sheet set up with the main sheet in a triangle vs on a traveler.
  • Cooking matters – you have to be a good cook to eat well.  Very shocked at the meals and baked goods that were prepared in such a small space.
  • Sailing under the Hook Bridge in Whangarei.  Never had a bridge opening to allow me to sail under.
  • No two boats are alike even when they are the exact same make and model.  Every owner quickly makes their boat their home.
  • Gained appreciation for having complete buy in from both people to live this life.

We are hoping that Jason returns to do his open water passage with us in the future.

We had Jason onboard Sugar Shack from 20 May to 30 May 2026.

Hiking the Urupukapuka Hillsides

We left Roberton Island and headed 4nm to Urupukapuka Island.  Matt and I knew a lot of boats anchored in this area and had scheduled a hike and luncheon with everyone.

We had a lovely group of people on our 4nm hike. Beth and Dave (Warrior), Jim and Pam (Roam), and Joanne and Scott (Fundango).

There are loads of trails around Urupukapuka.  We decided to take the red track all around the island which is a medium grade track.

It was a perfect sunny day with cloud cover.  Not too hot and not too cold.

This is an absolutely stunning hike. 

Every turn offered a different gorgeous view.  Each time we were convinced the view could not get any better and yet it did!  

The colors in the sky against the rich browns and greens on the hillside were lovely.

The trail was easy to follow and well maintained.

And we encounter more amazing views. 

I kept picturing a beautiful house where we stood overlooking this view!

Joanne and Scott peeled off after the first hour to watch the NFL playoffs.  But the rest of us finished our loop with pride.

We stopped in at Otehei Bay Cafe for some cold beers and a snack before heading back to the boat.

Urupukapuka

Our neighbors, “Roam” were anchored next to us. 

I could not resist taking a photo of our two beautiful Catana Catamarans – sister ships.

Later that night we had everyone over for happy hour.

Below we have Charlie (Purr), Pam (Roam), Joanne (Fundango), Dee and John (Go Baby Go), me, Jason, Matt, Jim (Roam), and Dave (Fundango).  Such a great group of people. 

We hiked the hillsides of Urupukapuka toward the end of May 2026.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.

Whangamumu and Roberton Island

We arrived in Whangamumu harbor around 2:00am, dropped the hook, had a celebratory beer and crashed.  

Jason woke up to a glorious day showcasing the beauty of Whangamumu!

That is Jason sitting on the port helm seat as Matt takes his photo with the drone.

Last month we released a full blog post on Whangamumu and its rich history with whaling.  Be sure to read all about it here.

We took Jason ashore to explore the whaling station and waterfall.

It had not rained recently so the waterfall was not gushing down, but it was still very pretty.  We were able to hike up the falls about 25 meters and just soaked up the beauty.

Sugar Shack had the bay all to herself.  The water gently lapped against the hull, the sun was shining, and everything was so peaceful.

It would have been lovely to hang out here for a few days.

However, we only had a few more days with Jason so we decided to move on to our next stop.

Roberton Bay, Bay of Islands

As you round Cape Brett you pass by two must see spots.  The first is the “hole in the rock on Motukokako / Piercy Island.”  This is an iconic natural attraction.

The peak of the island stands nearly 148 meters high with the top of the archway standing nearly 16 meters high.

Experienced and a little crazy skippers will take their boats and jet skis through the center of the tunnel.

We are content to just pass by on this beautiful day.

We dropped the hook at Robert Island (Motuarohia Island) which is a stunning little island with two lagoons.  

Captain Cook anchored and landed here in 1769.  The Maori’s named this island Motuarohia which means “Island of Loveliness.”

Mother Nature gave us a gorgeous sunset with a full moon on display.  

The sky had so many beautiful colors that it took our breaths away.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We visited Whangamumu for a 2nd time with Jason around the end of May 2026.