Image courtesy of CHESHER

Where the Heck is New Caledonia?

New Caledonia is a small island country situated between Fiji and Australia.  It’s lagoon is one of the largest enclosed lagoon systems in the world, stretching over 24,000 square kilometers.  In addition, the lagoon is protected by the world’s second-largest continuous coral reef After Australia’s Great Barrier reef.

It is a place of turquoise lagoons, welcoming anchorages, and enough baguettes to make you forget you’re in the South Pacific.

But beneath the palm trees lies a fascinating and sometimes complicated history.

New Caledonia was first inhabited by the Kanak people around 3,000 years ago. European contact arrived much later when British explorer Captain James Cook sighted the islands in 1774. He thought the rugged landscape looked similar to Scotland and named it “Caledonia,” the Roman name for Scotland. Since “New Scotland” didn’t have quite the same ring to it, New Caledonia was born.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Image courtesy of CHESHER

France annexed the islands in 1853 and later used them as a penal colony. France sent more than 20,000 convicts here. In fact, some of those prisoners stayed after serving their sentences, and many present-day families can trace their roots back to those early settlers. 

Today, New Caledonia remains a French territory, making it one of the more unique places in the Pacific. The official language is French, the currency is the CFP Franc, and you’ll find croissants, fine cheese, and excellent wine surprisingly close to some of the world’s most beautiful coral reefs.

The population is just under 300,000 people, with roughly 40% identifying as Kanak, alongside communities of European, Polynesian, Asian, and other Pacific Island heritage. The capital, Nouméa, is home to nearly half the population and feels more like a slice of the French Riviera than a typical South Pacific town.

So how does New Caledonia make its money?

The answer is nickel.

The islands sit atop some of the world’s largest nickel reserves. New Cal has long been one of the planet’s major producers. Many countries use Nickel in stainless steel and increasingly in batteries for electric vehicles, making it a highly valuable resource. For decades, mining has been the backbone of the economy, though fluctuating global prices have created challenges in recent years.

And here’s a fun fact: New Caledonia is home to the kagu, a rare flightless bird found nowhere else on Earth. With its striking crest and unusual barking call, it looks like something Mother Nature designed after a particularly long lunch.

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Like many places in the Pacific, New Caledonia is balancing tradition, modernity, and questions about its future. Political discussions surrounding autonomy and independence remain important topics.

In recent years the country has seen periods of unrest as different groups debate the islands’ path forward.

The Kanaks are known for their warm nature, rich culture, and the remarkable natural beauty that surrounds them.

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Matt and I are very excited to adventure through New Caledonia. 

New Caledonia is a landfall of emerald mountains, crystal-clear water, fresh baguettes, and the comforting knowledge that paradise occasionally comes with French pastries.

Not a bad combination.

We plan to spend 2.5-3 months exploring Grande Terre (the main island) and its surrounding islands as well as Isle de Pines.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  We arrived in New Caledonia in early June 2026.

What’s Swimming Beneath Us? Citizens of the Sea

While most sailors are busy collecting sunsets, fish stories, and the occasional wayward flying fish, we’re helping collect something a little more scientific—DNA from the ocean itself!  As volunteers for Citizens of the Sea we play a vital part in this scientific discovery.

Citizens of the Sea, a New Zealand-based citizen science program that equips sailors with the tools to gather valuable ocean data while cruising some of the most remote parts of the Pacific.

Their mission is simple but ambitious: use the sailing community to help scientists better understand ocean health, biodiversity, and the impacts of climate change.

Our job is to collect environmental DNA (eDNA) samples. Every creature in the ocean leaves behind tiny traces of genetic material in the water.

By towing a torpedo-shaped device called the TORPeDNA behind the boat, seawater is filtered and these microscopic clues are captured for later analysis. No marine biology degree required—just a boat, a steady hand, and a willingness to play with science equipment at sea.

eDNA Ocean Samples

The samples we collect will contribute to a growing database covering Australia, New Zealand, New Caledonia, Fiji, Tonga, and the vast stretches of the South Pacific in between. Scientists can use this information to identify thousands of species, monitor biodiversity, track ecosystem changes, and improve our understanding of ocean health across an enormous area.

Matt launches the torpedo 4 times.  First to rinse it, then 3 consecutive times after that to collect samples.  The torpedo drags 15 meters behind the boat for 10 minutes.

It was a bit tricky with the difficult sea conditions.  We had 2-3 meter seas and 20kts of wind each time we were taking samples.

But Matt and I were clipped in and took extra precautions.  

After Matt pulls the torpedo in, he drains it and hands it to me.

I remove the end cap, take it inside, and remove the gasket.  Slowly and carefully, I fold the filter in three and the store it in a vile.

Next, I insert a new filter, place the gasket back on and put the end cap back on the torpedo for its next launch.

We repeat this process three times each day between 1000 and 1400 (when the sun is at its highest).

The Results

The results so far have been impressive. Participating sailors have already helped generate more than a billion DNA sequences from over 1.5 million square kilometers of ocean, all at a fraction of the cost of traditional research vessels. That’s a lot of science from a lot of salty volunteers!

We’re excited to do our small part. After all, if we’re already crossing these waters, why not help scientists learn a little more about what’s swimming beneath us? And let’s be honest—telling people we’re “collecting eDNA samples for marine biodiversity research” sounds much more impressive than saying we’re just out for a sail.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.  

We collected samples for Citizens of the Sea on our passage from New Zealand to New Caledonia.  Early June 2026.

Big Blue Ocean Passage

After waiting for what seemed like an eternity, we finally left New Zealand on our passage to New Caledonia.

This was the best weather window we had seen in 6 weeks and yet it was not “ideal”.  Forecasts had high winds with gusts in the 30’s and 2-3 meter seas.  

But here we go on this 6 day passage with smiles plastered on our faces.

The first 12-18 hours were terrible!  We had “washing machine” seas that tossed us around like a leaf in a gale force wind.  We were slamming against the sea and rolling all over the waves.

It was not a comfortable period for us or the boat.

Day 2 had more of the same so we went with a double reefed main and double reefed genoa.  Despite having so little canvas up we were sailing at 7-8kts.  On occasion we would surf down a wave at 10-13kts!

Day 3 had wind shifting more after and at reduced speeds.  We actually were able to fly our spinnaker for about 6-7 hours.  It was one of the highlights of the trip!

Norfolk Island is about half way.  Not technically, but close enough.  It is a super tiny island owned by Australia.  Try to find it on the map!

If you look closely you can see two humps in the distance…that is Norfolk Island.

Night Terrors

Inevitably $hit happens at night!  Storms and squalls always occur at night and breakages and traffic rear their ugly heads in the dark.  We had not seen another boat for days and yet we had two different container ships were coming straight for us in the same night!  Seriously?

One of them was so close to us that I had to hail them on the radio and ask them to divert!

Technically, we have right away as we were under sail and he was under engine.  But he is way bigger than us so he could have forced us to divert.  Luckily, both ships moved out of our way.

The Arrival

We tried to slow the boat down on our last night so that we could arrive at the pass at daybreak.  Of course, the wind and the seas were not cooperating!

We de-powered the sails and yet we were still doing 8-9kts.  We would fall off the wind and still doing 8-9kts.  It was ridiculous.

Despite Mother Nature’s efforts to get us here faster, we managed to arrive right at dawn.

I love this shot of Matt and the moon.  Top right is the Amadee lighthouse at the Passe du Bolari Nord which is where we entered.

We had 22-25kt ESE winds and 2m seas as we entered the pass (3 hours after slack tide).  Not ideal conditions, but we wanted in!

We made it though with sails and engines pushing against a 2kt current.

The Amadee Lighthouse

The Lagoon

After this rough passage I just wanted and needed a fairly calm sail through the lagoon to the marina.

But that is not what we got!

We had barely any canvas up (see top left photo) and yet we were flying across the lagoon doing 9kts!  As you can see we had a storm pushing us along.

Passage Report

  • Miles to Destination:  880nm
  • Miles Traveled: 1,040 (see note)
  • Time at Sea (hook to hook):  5 days and 18 hours
  • Average Speed:  7.5kt
  • Max Speed: 14.2kt
  • Hours with Engines:  2.5hrs 

880nm the direct route from NZ to NC if we had followed the “rum line” However, we were trying to get out of the 2kt current and the crappy seas and ended up sailing an extra 160nm!

I can say that we have had worse passages but we have also had better ones.

Let’s just say I am extremely grateful to be on the dock at a marina in New Caledonia!

Fun Facts

This chart shows you our progress during each 24 hour period.  You can see that we sailed a lot further by comparing our “sailed” to “Made Good”.  The Made Good column shows you our progress toward our destination.

Here is another chart showing similar details with boat speed added.

And yet another chart showing VMG (Velocity Made Good) and our best rolling 24 hour stats.

Our blog posts runs 6-7 weeks behind actual live events.

We were on this passage from 6-12 June 2026.