Solar Arch Design & Fitting

The dream of adding new solar panels just got so much bigger than anticipated.  

Instead of just buying and installing new panels we decide to build a new solar arch spanning the width of the boat (over 7 meters wide and 3 meters tall).

We circle back to our friend Dan on Sel Citron (Catana 52) as he had his solar arch built at Norsand in Whangarei, NZ.  He hired a stainless fabricator named Phil Waddell.  So, we contacted Phil, explained what we were looking for and hired him.

Matt created a design plan of what we were looking for which was similar to Sel Citron but a smidge wider.  

I wrote up a full 10 page document identifying our design process, specifications, must haves and like to haves.  Comment below if you are interested in seeing this.

We want our solar panels to be inset and not sticking out or above the solar arch.  In order to get this look we plan to have the arch go from the outside of each hull.  Sel Citron went on the inside of each hull making his arch narrower.

The solar panels will also run perpendicular to the boat with the longest length of the panel running from port to starboard.  This will maintain our boat length of 14.5m (47′).

Measurements

Our fabricator, Phil Waddell came and took extensive measurements as he and Matt talked through the design.

Big decisions were made about the thickness of the tubes, the angle of the poles, the connecting, points, the conduit entry/exit points, weight, size, and location of each piece going on the arch, and attachment points.

Design imperatives:

  • The poles (tubes) had to match the angle of the bimini supports (same trajectory)
  • Dimensions of the arch could not extend beyond our davits as we did not want to increase the length of the boat.
  • The width of the arch would extend from the outside of each hull making it about 7 meters long.
  • The solar panels had to sit flush inside the arch supports.  We did not want the solar panels to sit on top or overhang on any of the edges.
  • We wanted the entire arch to be electropolished.
  • Each of the four corners and center points have to have entry/exit points for cables and wires.

Phil and Matt decided that the diameter of the poles would be 75mm.

The Fitting

Phil had to buy an extendable trailer hitch to transport our arch from Kerikeri to Whangarei (1hr20min). 

There was a lot of noodling over how to test fit the arch. 

We decided a forklift might work but we quickly realized the yard’s forklift could not lift the arch high enough.

So, we hired Culham Engineering to bring a crane.

It took five of us to gently fly this arch into place.

Matt and Phil attached lines to help guide the arch as she was raised above the boat masts.

We raised the arch above our neighbors mast, and over our mast before slowly lowering it behind our boat.

Phil used “handcuffs” between the forward and aft legs for support (they will not be there permanently. However, because the handcuffs were temporary it negatively impacted the fit.

Phil had to do some adjustments and mark the bottom of the legs for placement.

It took us about 2 hours to do the fitting and at least 8 hours of preparation.

Stay tuned for the installation of the solar arch in our next blog post.

Contacts

Stainless Fabricator: Phil Waddell hardout98@icloud.com and his wife Joy Waddell joyw2@icloud.com. 

Phil is NOT interested in building another solar arch like ours (it was too big).  However, he is open to smaller arches and other stainless fabrication.

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events. 

We started working with Phil in early November and had the fitting on 16 December 2025.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We worked on the solar arch from Nov.2025-February 2026.

Don’t miss our massive project updating our fresh water tanks in our last blog post.

Tainted Fresh Water Tank

We make another attempt to fix the port fresh water tank.  Our boat has (2) 400 liter fresh water tanks (one on port and one on starboard).  Catana built the painted fiberglass water tanks into the boat back in 2001. 

A few years ago we repainted our built in fresh water tank on the port side. If you recall.  See this blog post “Disgusting Water Tank” we scraped clean and repainted the tank.  Unfortunately, the tank continued to have a slight odor and odd taste despite us following the rigorous potable water paint data sheet. 

We are not sure if it was the paint that did not cure properly or if it was the glue that did not get covered by the paint. 

But either way, something had to be done.

It was time to try again. 

Creating a Larger Access Point

Last time we created a new access point in the center of the tank.  However, we cut it too small which made it very difficult to access the far corners of the tank.

So, this time, we decided to cut a much bigger access point. 

Premik, pictured below, had the honor of cutting the hole, then fiber glassing the edges to hold the new lid. 

It took him about a week to cut the hole, build the edges, and fiberglass them into place. 

Making a New Lid

We took our measurements of the lid and flange to Absolute Stainless

They took our precise measurements and instructions and one week later provided us with (2) beautiful lids and flanges.

We ordered our gasket material from Shuk Engineering (SQM 3mm Thick Blue EPDM Rubber Sheet – Potable Water AS/NZ 4020 – 1200mm Wide x 600mm). 

It took about a week to receive the material.

Matt cut the gasket material to match the lid, ordered the screws, and fitted it all together. 

The lid screwed into the flange which was glued and screwed into the top of the water tank.

Preparing the Tank

We decided to try a new paint and went with Jotun Tankguard 412, which is a two-component solvent free tank lining designed for potable water. 

This paint will stick to the International Interline 850 paint that we put on a few years ago. 

However, we do have to scratch up the surface to make it adhere better.  It took about 1.5 days to scratch up all the surfaces in the tank (sides, top, bottom, baffles).  Then the yard did a wax/grease wash to remove all particles prior to painting.

The next big project was completely covering our entire port hallway with plastic lining and pvc. 

Our painter, Damian started to paint the tank by hand and within 30 minutes decided it would be much easier to use the spray gun. 

It took way longer to cover and protect the hallway than it did to paint the tank.  But we really appreciated his efforts to protect our home.

It took about 8 hours spread over 3 days to spray paint the tank.

Now we had to maintain a 23c (74F) temperature while it out-gassed for a week. We ran a dehumidifier (which emits heat) to ensure the hallway had low humidity and stayed warm.  

Preparing for Fresh Water

The tank has to be actively flushed with hot water (100F) and an alkaline cleaner.  I had no idea what an alkaline cleaner was so I had to research what to use for portable water.

We found Five Star PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) at UBrew4U.  Five Star specifically made PBW for breweries and suitable cleaners for potable water tanks.

We bought (8) of the 1lb tubs which cost about $18USD ($35NZD) each.  We used 4 tubs for each tank 

The process was easy, albeit cumbersome. We carried a 2 gallon bucket to the Norsand Boatyards kitchen and filled it with very hot water. 

We took turns carrying the bucket back to the boat, adding 2.5 tablespoons of PBW, and pouring it into the tank.  Matt and I repeated this process 12+ times. 

Matt used the hose to fill the rest of the tank to the lid.

Matt used our emergency bilge pump to agitate the water and create movement for 1 hour. 

We drained and dried the tank.   Next, we flushed the tank through the pipes and flushed the water tank one more time.  Matt was ready to put it all back together.

The hoses and lines were reattached, the lids all screwed in, the water gauge installed and a new “nipple” or elbow was installed.  Matt then repainted the entire top of the tank to finish off this project.

The Conclusion

We filled the tank with high hopes, fingers crossed and prayers in our hearts. 

Matt and I were pleased with the outcome.  The water tasted and smelled like …. water.  

Repeat the entire process 

Now that we know what works, we repeated the entire process on the starboard water tank. 

We were much better prepared. 

We already had the stainless lid and flange so cutting the new access hole was much easier. 

Since Premik did the port side he was more efficient with starboard.  The fiberglass flange was installed in 2 days.

The next step was the difficult process of removing the old paint.  For the first tank it took a laborer one full week to remove the paint.

Matt borrowed an air needle scaler for the 2nd tank which made the removal process so much easier. 

He started with the old bubbled and flaky paint (top left), then used the gun to remove the paint (top right).  

It took Matt 2 full 8-hour days with the air needle and various scrapers to get it all removed (bottom photos).

We brought Premik in to fill some small cracks. 

Then a laborer came in to sand and prep the surface for paint. 

Damian, the lead painter had the lucky role of spray painting the tank. 

We let it off-gas for a week, cleaned it with PBW, flushed it twice, and had fresh water again!

Our rockstar “glasser” 

The feature image is Premik our premier fiberglass expert provided by Norsand boatyard.

This is Premik contorting his body to fiberglass a potential crack.  He was upside down, backwards, and vertical with Matt holding his legs.

We hike to two different waterfalls and Kauri trees in the AH Reed Memorial Park.  Check out the blog post.

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We worked on the port water tank in Nov-Dec 2025.

Tearing the Boat Apart

It is never easy tearing the boat apart. Matt and I have to create complete chaos in our home in order to complete our vast number of projects.

We disrupted every space and turned the entire boat upside down. Nothing was left untouched.

It made living on the boat very challenging (yes, we lived on the boat for over 3 months in this chaotic state).  Especially difficult for my OCD and neat freak character.

The cockpit becomes the work bench, storage area, and new galley.

The Salon

We upturned the salon several times. We emptied all of the contents under the settee into the two bathrooms (heads) and port aft cabin.  

All cables and wires are run through this area, which we can access only after removing everything.

Owners Cabin

We repainted the starboard potable water tank, which required taping everything off for weeks. No more access to our clothing, toiletries, or bed.

We dismantled the starboard cabin to allow workers access to install the new air-conditioning unit.

Starboard Bathroom

The owners bathroom was now a dedicated storage area for displaced items. We now stored items from the bilges, cabinets, and items from under the settee here.

Port Cabins

The forward cabin was now where Matt and I slept.  We stored our settee cushions here while work was being done in the main salon.

I packed the aft cabin with tools, parts, and projects waiting for Matt’s attention.

Port Bathroom

Stuff, junk, pots, pans, and more filled the port bathroom from floor to ceiling.

We stripped down and modified both helms.

We tore up the bow and bow peaks and rebuilt them several times as different projects progressed.

This is a shot of the bow while we were painting our cross beam.

Under the Boat

Under the boat is usually a storage area for yard tools, paint cans, and random projects outside.  We store our dinghy under the boat, park the car under the boat, and generally complete projects.

We were “on the hard” at Norsand Boatyard from early November 2025 to February 2026.

Get ready as you are about to read all about the projects that caused such chaos onboard Sugar Shack.

Don’t miss our last beautiful post on Whangarei Waterfalls.