Tag Archives: marshall islands

Delusions of Fresh Produce

Fresh produce has always been a bit elusive in the remote islands of the Pacific.  Most islands are hundreds if not thousands of miles away from the “main town.”   And even the main towns have to have the produce either flown in or shipped in.  Both modes of transportation are long, hard journeys often leaving the produce bruised, damaged, and spoiled.

We were very excited to arrive in Majuro because we heard you could get American products which we craved.  The Marshall Islands often get their food supplies from the U.S. and Hawaii in particular.  So, we had hoped we would have access to some tasty fresh vegetables and fruit.  Delusions of grandeur.

There are several stores that sell produce, but only 2 have a “decent” selection.  The best day to shop for produce is the day after the plane arrives which are Tuesdays and Saturdays.  This photo was taken at one of the better stores.  The worker was literally just stocking the shelves.  Most of this will be gone in 1-2 days.

 

What Did we Find?

We mostly found staples like potatoes, cabbage, onions, small eggplant (aubergine).  On a good day, we could find monster carrots, apples, bananas, celery, grapes.  It is a treasure hunt to find unblemished produce.

If there was produce on the shelves it typically was in some form of decay or spoiled.  Yet, it was still exceedingly expensive.  We find it really hard to believe anyone would buy the produce in the ruined state at such high costs.  So you would assume there is a lot of waste.

Just a little rough….and yet so very expensive!

The pre-packaged fruit is bug free but as you can tell they are poor condition (these were just put on the shelves)

In addition, there often are lots of bugs and critters on or around the produce. 

Exorbitant Prices

Prices for the fresh produce tend to be extremely high.  Understandable considering they are coming from another country by plane or ship.  But, they tend to be a lot higher than expected.  For example

  • Grapes $11.85/lb (so one bag will be over $23)
  • Carrots $3.45/lb
  • Apples $3.39/lb
  • Eggplant  $6.49/lb
  • Avocados $8/99/lb
  • Broccoli $6.45/lb

Not sure how the locals can afford these prohibitive prices considering the average Marshallese only makes $4.00 per hour. 

These were discounted because on Tuesdays they give “elderly” a discount.  Yep, I am elderly after 55!

Some more crazy prices.

Growing Produce in the Islands

Many locals in French Polynesia, Fiji, and Vanuatu had thriving gardens.  Almost every island had banana, mango, breadfruit, and pandanus trees.  However, we have not been so lucky in the RMI.

Most, if not all, of islands in RMI are rock and coral.  Making the “soil” unfavorable for gardening. 

Effects of No Produce

It is so very sad to report, but 75% of Marshallese over 50 have Type II diabetes.  Maybe because they don’t have access to good produce. Maybe because there is too much of an American influence. Or maybe they were never taught healthy habits and there simply aren’t many options.

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind live events.  This blog took place in early March. Check out how we amused ourselves while at the remote island of Enemonit.

Enemonit Amusement

We had a month to amuse ourselves before heading back to the States for a visit.  We would have preferred to be in the outer atolls during this time.  However, the weather dictated a hasty retreat to the main atoll.  We spent most of our “waiting time” at Enemonit Island which is far prettier than the Majuro anchorage.

In between boat projects we find different ways to amuse ourselves.  Matt practices his “winging.”  It is an ordeal for him.  It takes about 45 minutes to get all of the gear out and set up.  He has to have 12-15kts of wind with no swell and little boat traffic.  He is just figuring it all out and adverse conditions make it difficult.

I keep an eye on him as he needs a ride once he gets too far downwind.  He has not mastered winging upwind yet.  So, Matt preps the dinghy for me to be able to jump in, start our 25hp outboard, and zoom to him.

He does better than he did before, which is always good.  He is goofy footed so it is easier to go one direction than the other.  Right now he is just trying to balance on the board while using the wing for forward motion.  However, the wind kicks up and occasionally forces him up on the foil.

Snorkeling and Free Diving

We do lots of snorkeling on the multiple wrecks (DC3, 2-Huey Helicopters, and a double decker ferry).  Matt sits in the DC3 pilot seat which was ejected before the boat was scuttled.

Matt free dives, I snorkel, the many bommies and coral patches around Enemonit and Eneko.

Dinner with Sweet Ruca

Matt and I caught (2) Yellow Fin tuna while we were sailing in the outer atolls.  We invited Curtis and Kate from sv Sweet Ruca to come over for some tasty tuna sliders!

We had some stellar sunsets, sunrises and rainbows.  Enemonit is truly a beautiful spot in a not so beautiful atoll.

Our blog posts run 5-6 weeks behind actual live events.  Activities at Enemonit took place in late February.  Did you explore the Alele Museum with us in our last blog post?

A Day at the Museum

The Alele Museum is small but impactful.  It is located in Majuro and showcases artifacts, traditional tools, fishing gear, an outrigger canoe, navigation guides, and historical photographs packed into this museum.

I visit the museum with my friend Kate on sv Sweet Ruca. The museum is free but they do accept donations to help maintain it.

Visitors can view historical photos along the hallway walls.  

They can also learn about the destruction of the atomic bombs and the significant milestones of each atoll.

The museum displayed a beautiful female chief with traditional tattoos and an intricately woven skirt. 

Next to this display were clothing articles from the early 1900’s.

Tools of the Trade

The Marshallese women learn how to weave at an early age using the pandanus leaves. The women weave purses, bags,  fans, crafts, mats, and jewelry.  

The Marshallese traditional basket is called the Alele basket (lower left photo). 

The basket holds the family’s most valuable possessions. The eldest female in the family is responsible for the basket.  

Officials named the Alele Museum after this basket.

The locals made their fishing hooks and tools using shells and sticks. 

Tattooing

The Polynesians across the Pacific used the same traditional method to do tattoos . 

Men and women endured this extremely painful process to get tattoos.  We call it “tattoo-ow!” or “tap tap ow!”

Locals used bamboo to make the handle ( “ni” or “tooth”), which was 25-30cm long.  This handle had a small tattooing chisel with 3-5 fine points (teeth) attached to the top.  The chisel created the fine lines and dots. 

The artist would use the central rib of a coconut palm frond to make the mallet (jub or kade), which was 20-30cm long.  The artist used the mallet to hit the handle to pound the teeth into the flesh.

They used a coconut half shell to hold the pigment.

Artists made pigment (mamoj) from charred coconut fibers and water.  Later, they made the pigment from the pure black carbon soot that came from the lantern chimneys. 

Sailing and Navigating

Marshallese used traditional canoes with outriggers and hand woven sails to travel.

Unlike modern sailing vessels, these boats do not have a bow (front) or stern (back).  The captain simply turns around in his seat and adjusts the sail in the opposite direction.  Pretty nifty!

Satellite images of each RMI atoll were posted on the walls in this room.  Along with a small version of the traditional outrigger canoe.

Marshallese have are known for their navigational skills. Captains memorized the routes and did not bring or use any navigational tools.

However, “stick charts” were originally created as teaching aids to preserve the navigational knowledge.  They use shells to indicate the general direction of the atoll.  Captains memorized the routes and did not bring stick charts on passages.

The charts depict the wave and current pattern around the atolls.  The Marshallese traveled the ocean, maintained courses, and determined positions of the islands by using of the stick charts.

The Nuclear Bombs

The museum had an entire wall dedicated to the nuclear bombing and its effects on the population. 

The photo on the right shows the migration path the victims had to endure while finding a new home.

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events. 

We visited the Alele Museum around mid-February.  Check out our last blog post as we snorkel a pinnacle at Eneko.