Category Archives: Boat Details

A New Set of Wheels

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Boy that could mean so many things…a new boat — na.  A new dinghy — na.  A new car — na.  We literally mean a new set of wheels.  But why do we need wheels on a boat?  Well, we don’t “need” wheels but we got them for our dinghy.

Many cruisers use wheels to help them pull their dinghy onshore during a beach landing.  Our previous dinghy was soooo heavy. We could have used dinghy wheels for her but she was too heavy for the wheels.  Yes, the wheels have a weight restriction.

But, our new Highfield 360CL weighs in at 75 kilos, the outboard weighs 55 kilos and we carry about 15 kilos in fuel for a total of 145 kilos.  Just the right amount of weight for a set of new wheels.

Which Wheels to Buy?

There are lots of different types of wheels on the market and we really had to do our due diligence.  We made sure they would accommodate our dinghy’s make, model, and weight while still being able to work in hard and soft sand.  Beachmaster consistently came up as the top brand. 

Matt emailed them to make sure they would work and hold up with our set up and we received an affirmative reply.  We ordered the removable mount set with retractable wheels.  We wanted to be able to take them off if we were not planning on using them for a while.

Matt placed the order on Thursday.  On Friday we received a call from Beachmaster asking if we were a foreign flagged vessel and I said “yes.”  She then asked if the wheels were being installed onto our dinghy which would be leaving the country with us, I said “yes.”  And then she said, I will then send you a new invoice as the original invoice charged you for GST (tax) and you qualify for a GST (tax) free order.  

What?  Yes, that is absolutely true.  Normally, both Matt and I automatically request GST free so I assumed he did on this order.  But he forgot.  So, the company proactively realized this and reached out to us to credit us the GST!  Seriously an amazing company.

Drilling Holes Into Our New Dinghy

The package arrived on Monday (1 business day after placing the order).  Talk about service.   We measure multiple times, tape off the area, and measure again.  We then put them up with VHB double stick tape so we could raise and lower the wheels without hitting the rub rail.  Then we drilled the holes into the transom.

The top photo shows he wheels down and the bottom photo shows the wheels up.

It took two of us to drill the holes so no photos.  Once the bolt holes were drilled, Matt taped them off and filled them with 5200 so they would not leak.  Then we installed each side.

Here are the final photos.  The before (upper left), installed and up (top right), installed and down (bottom left).

Now all we need is a beach to try them out!

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred around mid-January 2024.  In our last post we spend a lot of time redoing our dinghy chaps which came unglued.

Chap my Hide! Dinghy Chaps Unglued

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Our new dinghy, a Highfield 360CL, has had a few issues.  Most recently the velcro holding the dinghy chaps (which are the cover to protect the pontoons) stopped sticking to the dinghy.  

We had our dinghy chaps custom made by Kim at Masterpieces in Canvas about 8 months ago.  She did an amazing job and we have had over a dozen people compliment us on the well made covers!   It was not her fault that the velcro sticky back stopped sticking.

The Problem

Kim used the sticky glue on the back of the velcro to adhere the chaps to the dinghy. The male part of the velcro stuck to the chaps and the female part (soft) of the velcro stuck to the dinghy.  In theory this works and it did for a short while (8 months).  But as the dinghy gets hot and cold in the sun it expands and contracts.  This causes the glue on the velcro to loosen and come off.  So, not a good long term plan.

With our last dinghy, we had the velcro glued onto hypalon strips, then sewn together, then we used special glue to stick the hypalon strips to the hypalon dinghy.  We should have remembered to do that to these chaps, but it slipped our mind as we had so much other stuff going on.  Our new dinghy is made from PVC not hypalon unfortunately. 

Hindsight is 20-20 they say.

The Remedy

We had a lovely conversation with Tim at Northland Inflatables.  He was able to sell us PVC strips and special PVC contact glue.  In addition, he walked us through the best way to remove the glue from the dinghy, the application of the velcro to the PVC, and the glueing process of the PVC strips to the dinghy. He is a wealth of information!

Tim informed us that the PVC strips will be stronger if you cut them diagonally across the fabric (rather than with the grain of the fabric).  Good tip.

We were ready to start this project after purchasing our special 2-part PVC contact glue, special brush, and 18m of 30mm wide PVC strips!

Step 1A: The Prep

It seems like all I do is glue removal projects!   Removal of all of the graphic stickers and its 23 year old glue, scraping all of the glue, 5200 and silicone from the ceiling panels, 6 hatch frames and of their adhesive, and now the dinghy glue.  And the funny thing is that they are all different, using different glues, on different surfaces, and requiring different removal techniques.

We removed the outboard and hauled the 75kilo dinghy up using our spin halyard.  Placing the dinghy on our two bean bags allowed easier access to the glue areas on the outside (see photo below).

The dinghy has 23 pieces of velcro spanning over 18 meters.  Tim had suggested we make the strips 30mm wide even though our velcro was only 25mm. He thought it might make sewing easier.  But in retrospect we should have just got 25mm strips.  Now we have to accomodate for the extra 5mm.  What I decided to do was apply the velcro on the bottom of each strip and had the extra 5mm on the top.  The reason I did this was because several velcro strips aligned with a seam and we did not want the white PVC strips to show.

We created a sheet and labeled/numbered each piece of velcro so we know exactly where it goes when we put it back.

Step 1B: More Prep

We used a pencil to mark where each piece of velcro (the edges, start and end) and then we taped all around the velcro before removal.  Taping will help limit the spread of glue and MEK when you start the adhesive removal process.  

We were really good about marking the edges but we did not tape until afterwards.  So the problem was the MEK took off the pencil markings so we had to guess where some of the pieces went. And some of the MEK extended beyond the velcro area causing a very slight discoloration.  So, tape before removing your velcro.

Step 2: The Removal

I carefully remove each of the 23 strips of velcro, one at a time. I place them on the PVC strips lining them up on the edge and labeling each one so I know where they go when we have to put them back onto the dinghy.

Next I get to removing the tons of glue off the dinghy.

We cannot use anything sharp to remove the glue because we would risk puncturing the pontoon (very bad).  I tried a rubber square, a plastic paddle, and a cool tool Aaron from Norsand Boatyard had given me and none of them worked.

Finally Matt brought out a putty knife that he adapted for me.  He rounded the corners and dulled the blade.  Eventually, I was able to remove the adhesive while using a heat gun to warm up the glue and the modified putty knife.  This would get the large globs off.  Then I went back with MEK (really nasty stuff) and a non-absorbent rag to remove the difficult to see remnants of the glue.  If you use an absorbent rag you end up wasting a lot more MEK. But you have to wear very thick, high quality gloves as the MEK will eat your skin and nails!

After many hours we finally have a dinghy without residue…clean.  It is always amusing to me that I have such a hard time removing adhesives.  Why do you ask?  Well, I am removing it because it no longer sticks, so why is it hard to come off?  Why I ask you?

Note

Tim from Northland Inflatables told us to put the velcro on the dull side of the PVC strips.  The dull side is the side that has UV protection which does not stick as well as the clean shiny side with no UV protection. The trick is trying to determine the shiny side from the dull side while in the sun.  So, we stick the velcro to the dull side, then sew it on.  This leaves the shiny, clean side ready for the contact glue to stick to the dinghy.

Step 3: Sewing

I tried to use our trusty Baby Lock sewing machine to sew the velcro to the PVC strips.  However, the machine struggled with the PVC as it was slippery and wouldn’t move with the machine’s foot.  And it made the stitching on the back look funny.

Matt breaks out our new “to us” Sailrite Sewing machine.  I had not used this machine yet as it totally intimidated me!  But, you got to start somewhere.  The Sailrite has much better feet and it just sucked the strips right through!

I had 38 meters of sewing to do as I sewed all four sides of each of the 23 strips of velcro to the PVC – it will not move now!

Step 4: Glue PVC strips to Dinghy

We did a lot of research on what was the best glue to stick things to PVC and either Bostik 995 or PVC contact glue were stated to be the best.  We found a tiny bottle (50ml) of Bostik 995 at All Marine for over $100.  Well that won’t do as we need over 300ml.  So, we asked Tim what we should use and suggested this special contact PVC glue that he uses on all of his dinghy repairs.  He sold us 300ml for $25.  Sweet as!

We run MEK along the strips and the dinghy to ensure there is nothing that will prohibit a good stick.

Next, we tape off the dinghy where each strip goes.  This will protect the dinghy from getting excess glue on it and it will help us align the strips in the exact place since we won’t have the luxury to move them around once they make contact with each other.

Matt and I work together to adhere the PVC strips.  Tim gave us a “chip” brush that he cut down to almost a stub and then rounded the corners.  He said this will help us to use less contact glue.

First you apply the contact glue to the PVC strip and then to the corresponding area on the dinghy.  You let it set for 10-15 minutes.  Then you go back with a heat gun to warm both up and slowly and carefully apply the PVC strip to the dinghy.  I say “slowly and carefully” because once the PVC strip makes contact with the dinghy it aint movin.  

Then I follow behind with a dowel to press the PVC strip to the dinghy and ensure it is stuck on good.

We ended up having to get an additional canister of the special PVC contact glue to finish our project.  But we did use it for two other smaller projects.  In the end I think we probably used 350-400ml.  We were probably more generous with the glue than necessary.

Completion

As you can see we are doing our best to leave no room for errors and to ensure this is stuck on good.  After a week of work we are finally done and our beautiful chaps are now snug as a bug in a rug!  Let’s hope these last us many years.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occured in early January 2024.  Don’t miss out on our luxurious experience at Wai Ariki Hotsprings and Spa – check out our last blog post.

Shattered Moonlight Hatch Frames

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We have lots and lots of windows on Sugar Shack.  Some are called “windows” and some are called “hatches.”  Windows typically do not open whereas a hatch opens.  Moonlight manufactures most of the hatches and many varieties of boats use them including us.

We have two escape hatches on our boat which we could use in the event of an emergency.  There is one on starboard in the master head (bathroom) and one on port in the forward cabin.  They provide excellent ventillation for the boat and are almost always open when we are not underway.  We love them!  

We also have 4 large hatches: (2) for the engine compartments and (2) for the bow lockers. These 6 Moonlight hatch frames come in multiple parts.  The top part of the frame is aluminum and holds the actual frame that opens and closes.  The bottom part of the frame is plastic and it is really just to cover the screws and make everything look pretty.

We have a total of 6 Moonlight hatch frames that are damaged, broken, cracked, and yellowed.  It has bothered Matt and I for years.  But, the replacement plastic frames are flimsy.  We have waited to find a better solution for replacing them and thought we had the perfect plan while we were at Norsand Boat yard.

We had hoped the yard could make a mold and build new ones out of fiberglass.  Unfortunately that did not work out.  It was going to take a really long time and cost close to a $1000NZD for just the two escape hatch frames.  So, we ended up buying all 6 Moonlight plastic frames from AB Marine for $1500USD (including shipping from Germany to NZ).

Moonlight Hatch Frames

The wear and tear on these plastic frames is very common.  We have met several other cruisers who have had similar problems with their frames.  I mean really, they are flimsy plastic and 23 years old after all.   Here is a photo of our old frame and the new frame (prior to cutting out the back).  This is the escape hatch in the master head.

The damage is extensive and none of the frames are salvageable.  Here are the escape hatches (inside).

The two frames on the bow hatches are almost completely gone – you can hardly see the plastic.  In fact on the top photo, Matt put wood in to avoid having the sails torn by the broken plastic and exposed screw heads.  But you can still see bits of the yellow plastic frame between the wood and the metal frame.

The sorry state of our bow peak Moonlight hatch frames.

The sorry state of our bow peak Moonlight hatch frames.

The two engine compartment hatch frames are not any better — either completely missing or shattered.

After posting these photos I realize how appalling their state truly is now!  How did we live with them like this for so long?

New Moonlight Hatch Frames

We ordered 6 Moonlight frames from AB Marine.  They safely packaged our very fragile frames and sent them to NZ for us.  We received them within 9 business days from Germany.  It was a rather large box.

We decided to see if we could strengthen the plastic frames prior to installing them.  Our hope was that we could fiberglass the back edges and insert foam in the empty spaces to create a more stable glueing platform.  However, after we removed the old frames we realized that only the starboard escape hatch has room for fiberglass. The port frame has no room – not even 1mm.  The two bow peaks can be fiberglassed but the two engine compartment hatches don’t have room either.

Top photo shows how tight the space is where the frame has to slip into (between the existing gray fiberglass and the gray metal).  The bottom photo shows the huge gaps that need a foam filler in addition to fiberglass around the frame.

Preparations

First the removal process begins.  Of course it is a messy job as the plastic crumbles easily.

Once the plastic is all removed we have to start taking off the 5200 super glue (or as Matt calls it the Devil’s glue) and the sealant.  It is a slow process…

Hatch surrounds are cleaned up.  Left photos with glue and right photos clean (hopefully you can tell without my description).

The (4) larger hatches are more difficult because we have to pick out the old plastic and old adhesive between the metal frame and the fiberglass.  We use picks, pudy knives, and exacto knives to get it all out.  

Fiberglassing the Frames

It is time to fiberglass (or glass as it is known in the industry) the 3 frames that have room to glass.  We bring 1 escape hatch frame and 2 bow peak frames into Norsand so Peter Palmer can glass them for us.  He is so sweet and did this over the holidays so we did not have to wait the 2 weeks for the yard to reopen after the Christmas holidays.  We only glassed the backside as we did not want it to show on the front side.

While Peter was glassing the three pieces, Matt filled in the starboard escape hatch frame so that it would provide better support.  The port escape hatch had already been filled in but the starboard one had huge gaps which left the frame unsupported.

Before we install, Matt had to cut the plastic frames to fit each area.  He started with the starboard engine hatch.  He measured, taped the frame, measured again, and then measured a third time just to be sure.  Then with an exacto knife he slowly cut the plastic frames.

The frames that have fiberglass had to be cut using an angle grinder at Norsand.  Once the fiberglass was done it made it nearly impossible to cut so we borrowed a protected room at the Norsand Boatyard and used an angle grinder to cut through the fiberglass.  It made a bit of a mess, but we got it done.

Ready to Install

Now that the frames and the surrounds are ready, we can start the install.  Here are a few photos of the larger hatches after the glue was removed and before the frames go in.  You can see the nasty screws that stick out.  It makes it really easy to hurt your head or shoulder and it opens it up for the possibility of damaging our sails and other items stored in these comparments.

Matt decided he did not want to use 5200 (the Devil’s glue) for the adhesion.  We spoke to several people at Norsand and decided to use Dow Dowsil 795 Structural Glazing Sealant with a few spots of 5200 to adhere the frames to the surrounds.  This will make it substantially easier to remove them in the future.  He loads the frames and surrounds with glue and then we carefully raise the frames into place before taping and locking them in.

We leave large clamps and tape on for 24 hours.  Then we remove the clamps and leave the tape on for another 48 hours.  Just to ensure it has plenty of time to dry and set.

The finished and installed frame looking gorgeous!

Now, just 5 more to go….

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This particular blog post occured over the 2023-2024 holiday break.  In our last blog we update a few more canvas pieces including new window covers and sun shades.