Tag Archives: daniel’s bay

Local performer

Waiting in Nuku Hiva

We had some time to kill while we waited on our martingale. If we had our druthers, we would have left for the southern Marquesas islands to wait for a weather window toward the Gambiers.  However, life had other plans.  We needed to follow up on our long-stay visa renewals and wait for our part.  But we are not good at waiting, so we filled our days.  So, what did we do?

Exercise

A few of my friends (Janet, Nicci, and Isabelle) and I walked almost every day.  I say, walk, but truly we did the hikes around Taihoe Bay at a moderate pace early in the morning.  There are three hikes that we rotated between:  Collette’s Bay, Gazebo Hike, and the Mare Hike.  They are each about 4-6 miles long and can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on how much we are talking or how fast we are walking.  This photo is from the Gazebo hike at the top overlooking the bay with Janet, Isabelle and I.

Hiking Partners

Hiking Partners

We also did a little yoga.  Isabelle recently got her yoga certification and graciously taught yoga several times a week.  Sometimes we had 20 people while other times we had 5.  Always a mixed bag, but lots of fun.  

Yoga Practice with Cruisers

Yoga Practice with Cruisers

Errands

Of course, we ran some errands.  We motored a lot with Wayne and the Melnar’s so we had to replenish our fuel.  Technically, we were not “low” but with 1000 miles to the Gambiers and another 1000 miles to Tahiti it was best to top up the tanks.  We borrowed 6 jerry cans (20 liters each) from Nuku Hiva Yacht Services.  This is in addition to our four 20-liter cans.  We made two trips to replenish our diesel and gasoline.

We also tried our best to provision.  Unfortunately, the supply ship has not visited Nuku Hiva since the middle of December (we are at the end of January).  Of course, it is scheduled to come a week after we leave.  We do not plan to be waiting on the supply ship.  So, the magasins were painfully empty.  We purchased what we could.

Cleaning, cleaning, cleaning.  The waterline and bottom of the boat needed some lovin!  The waters here foster some interesting growth and we had a virtual science experiment growing on our boat!

Computer Work

I volunteered to re-organize the Tuamotus, Society, and Marquesas Compendiums into an easier format.  There is lots of great information in each compendium, but it is difficult to find it.  Most people submit information in paragraph form and you have to read through a bunch of junk to get an anchorage location or find the post office.  So, I am working on re-organizing each compendium (which are over 200 pages each).  The creators have been waiting patiently for me to finish these so I’ve been working hard.

Spinnaker & Para-Sailor

As you might recall, we blew out the clew (corner) of our small spinnaker on a passage.  We have tried to get it repaired and it was too much money.  We are in the process of trying to repair it ourselves but are not convinced it will hold.

Another boat was selling a spinnaker about the same size as our small spinnaker.  They were also selling a small parasailor which we have never sailed with before.  It would be a fun sail to try out as you can use it in stronger winds and with a wider variety of wind direction. Basically, it gives you a lot more opportunity to use it than a regular spinnaker. The problem is that it is smaller than we would have liked but it could work.

We went over to Azyu to check out both sails and were really happy with their condition.  The spinnaker is a 2014 and has some use on it, but it is in really good condition.  The parasailor has only been used two times and in even better condition.  

Spinnaker Evaluation

Spinnaker Evaluation

Azyu wanted to leave and could not stand by waiting for us to make a decision.  So, we decided to purchase both sails, try them out and keep the one we like best.  We will sell the other sail when we get back to Tahiti.  We low-balled them and they accepted.  Sweet!  Basically we got both sails for about $4500.  To give you an idea of what a screaming deal we got: a spinnaker new would be $6,500 and a parasailor new is $10,000.  Maybe waiting to repair our damaged spinnaker was a good idea?

Daniel’s Bay

We decided to get away for the weekend.  We left the “main bay” of Taihoe and went to Daniel’s bay because it is so much prettier and quieter.  Our friends on Maple are here with us and we had a blast hanging out with them before they leave for the Society Islands and then Malaysia.    We hiked to the “nada-falls”, had ice-cream at Teiki’s place and dinner on each other’s boats.

Daniel's Bay HIke

Daniel’s Bay HIke

We cross the river three times before we get to the “trickle fall”  The first time you cross can be nerve racking as you try to get solid footing.  The top photo is us goofing around while crossing.  The bottom photo is us enjoying a cool down after the 7 mile walk.

Crossing the river 3x

Crossing the river 3x

Still dry and no waterfall, but a truly beautiful setting.  Daryl (top photo) reflecting on the pool), and Janet, Ella and Iris at the bottom.

At the Nada Falls

At the Nada Falls

The local fisherman go out early in the morning and come back to the dock around 0700 to clean their catch.  It is always amazing to me how big their tuna catches are!

Tuna Catch

Tuna Catch

The fisherman toss the parts into the water for the awaiting sharks.  Always fun watching the fisherman feeding the sharks at the dock.  Yep, this is where we dock our dinghy to get to shore.  Fun times waiting for the sharks to lose interest in us.

Large sharks at the dock

Large sharks at the dock

We enjoyed lots of good dinners and happy hours on our friend’s boas.  This is Nicci from Flip Flops and Janet from Maple.

Dinner with friends

Dinner with friends

Super Bowl Sunday

Our friend Kevin from Nuku Hiva Yacht Services hosted a super bowl party on his deck.  He was able to live stream it on the internet so we could watch just off the beach.  Unfortunately, we lost the signal on the last 20 minutes of the game which is when KC came from behind to win 31 to 20!  How the heck did that happen in 20 minutes. No matter, it was a great game in good company in a lovely setting.  And the half time was spectacular with J Lo and Shakira!

Super Bowl Party

Super Bowl Party

Ladies Luncheon

One of the other cruisers organized a ladies luncheon which was fabulous.  There were 9 of us from 8 countires including a woman who fenced, a skydiver, a motor cross racer, swimmer, pilot/plane builder, and one that has raised two kids and lived on a boat for the past 25 years.  An incredibly eclectic and exciting group of women.

Ladies Luncheon

Ladies Luncheon

Hike to the Saddle

Not sure why I agreed to do this, but Sophie and I hiked to the saddle which was over 152 stories (the empire state building is 100), and almost hit 10 miles!  It was a brute of a climb, but we did it!

Sophie and I hike to the saddle

Sophie and I hike to the saddle

Lots of cruise ships came into port at the end of January and into February.  The locals would gather near the dock and give them a nice welcome with drums, singing and warm greetings.  Of course, I had to take advantage of the situation and get a photo op.

Local performer

Local performer

 

Our good friend Mike on “Easy” decided to fly back to the States for a month.  unfortunately, we will be gone when he returns and are not sure when we will see him again.  He may be sailing to Hawaii then Oregon while we are going to New Zealand.  So, it seemed like a great time to have a party.  Over 20 people came to Sugar Shack to honor Mike!

Mike's Going Away Party

Mike’s Going Away Party

Matt decided to a monstrous hike to the antennae which is almost the tallest peak of the island.  I opted to skip out as it was way too high.  It was well over 6.5 miles to the top and another to return and I think it concluded at a 14 mile hike and well over 3,000 elevation.

Above, I mentioned that I hiked to the saddle (red arrow), but Matt took it further and hiked to the blue arrow.  A huge 5-hour hike.

Matt's hike to the antennae

Matt’s hike to the antennae

View from the top of the mountain, taken by Matt

View from the top

View from the top

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Round the Outside to Anaho Bay

Continuing our circumnavigation around Nuku Hiva with Shawn and Sharon.  Starting at Taihoe Bay, to Controller’s Bay to Anaho Bay (northern part of the island).  We left Controller’s Bay and pointed the boat toward the northern bay of Anaho.  A short 17.5nm trip that took a little over 3 hours with an average speed of 5.5kt.  A large heard of dolphins came to play with us for 45 minutes showing their prowess and agility.

Dolphins leading the way

Dolphins leading the way

Anaho Bay has a lovely beach, tiny church, and a pension (hotel type place) with an eatery.  We thought it would be very crowded as Anaho Bay is known to be one of the prettiest bays in Nuku Hiva.  But it was not too bad with only 11 boats in the anchorage.  To put it in perspective, there are well over 50 boats in Taihoe Bay.

Anaho Bay

Anaho Bay

A few locals were hanging around enjoying the sun, cleaning their catch, and playing music.  The church cannot hold many people, but there are only 12 people who live in this bay.

Small Church in Anaho Bay

Small Church in Anaho Bay

There are beautiful wild horses that roam around and run the beach – because they can!

Wild horses on the beach

Wild horses on the beach

We did a quick walk about just to stretch our legs and then retired back to the boat for a lazy day.

Anaho Beach Stroll

Anaho Beach Stroll

The next morning greeted us with a gorgeous sunrise and motivated us to do another hike.

Sunset in Anaho Bay

Sunrise in Anaho Bay

Hike to Haatuaua

Early the next morning we set out to explore the beach.  We read about a nice hike to another bay.  This time we clearly saw the trail the day before and we had a path.  It was a super easy and pretty hike along the beach and over the mountain to another beach. 

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

We had the entire bay to ourselves which was awesome.  The mountains surrounding the beach had spectacular ridges.  It looked like a large version of stalagmites reaching for the clouds.

Beautiful beach ridges

Beautiful beach ridges

On our way back we ran into a family and talked them into taking our photo at the top of the ridge.

Group photo at the top of the hill

Group photo at the top of the hill

When we got back, we found our dinghy on “the hard.”  Which means she was beached.  The tide had gone out and she was sittin pretty in the sand.

Beached Sweetie

Beached Sweetie

Hike was a total of 4.8mile and 12,991 steps.  Not a bad day’s walk.

Daniel’s Bay

Our longest passage with Shawn and Sharon was from Anaho Bay to Daniel’s Bay at 25.8nm over 5 hours. Only a few dolphins came out to play with us, but we did manage to land a rather large wahoo!  After about 30-35 minutes of fighting with the fish, he gave a little pull, then came in rather easily.  When we pulled him on the boat, we realized something (most likely a shark) ate his tail off.  With no means of propulsion and probably bleeding out he gave up. 

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

As the boys spent over an hour cleaning the fish, I enjoyed the amazing topography of the mountain ridges.

Spectacular Ridges

Spectacular Ridges

We arrived in the late afternoon and only had a short time to visit the beach.  A cute little dog befriended Sharon and stuck like glue to us.

Daniel's Bay River

Daniel’s Bay River

We walked along the river’s edge where the river meets the lagoon and did a little photo shoot.

Daniel's Bay River with Sharon

Daniel’s Bay River with Sharon

We all enjoyed a nice hot shower before dinner.  The boys in their towels being silly.

Boys dress up for dinner

Boys dress up for dinner

You can’t come to Daniel’s Bay without doing the nature walk to the “trickle fall” (which is actually a waterfall in the winter).  It is a gorgeous walk down an easy path lined with beautiful plants, flowers, and fruit trees.  You cross the river several times, climb over some rocks, and under trees.  Unfortunately, the waterfall was not even a trickle fall, but it still is really pretty.

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

On the way back took some fun and goofy photos.

Waterfall at Daniel's Bay

Waterfall at Daniel’s Bay

Total hike 7.2 miles, 17,15 steps.  We rewarded ourselves with lunch at Teiki and Kua

Back to Reality

The next day we had to head back to Taihoe Bay so they could catch their flight back to the states.  We had an early birthday celebration with pork chops, cheesecake and my favorite rose wine! 

Birthday celebration

Birthday celebration

It was really hard to say “so long” to Shawn and Sharon!  They are such amazing people and great friends!

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Hakatea Bay with Peneque

Hakatea Bay – Daniel’s Bay

Hakatea Bay also known as “Daniel’s Bay” is just around the corner from the main village of Taihoe in Nuku Hiva.  But it might as well be another island as it is so different.  There are about 10-12 people that live in this little piece of paradise.  A small white sandy beach is surrounded by towering mountains that glitter in the sun.  It was so hard to capture on camera, but the trees were truly golden against the deep black crevices of the hillside. 

The top photo is of one side of the bay, the center is the golden hillside and the bottom is the actual palm tree lined beach where the locals live.

Hakatea Bay = Daniel's Bay

Hakatea Bay = Daniel’s Bay

There is no dinghy landing so we had to get creative with “Sweetie.”  The first time we went to shore we dragged her on the beach.  Always a challenge as she is heavy and has a 25hp outboard on the stern which makes it even more difficult.  We had Wayne and a fender which helped.  Basically, we slipped the round fender under the dinghy and rolled it under Sweetie to get her up the sand dune. 

Beauty of Daniel’s Bay

We were blown away by how unique and beautiful this village is. Tropical flowers, plants and trees line the single dirt road from the beach to each house.  Tons and tons of fruit trees are all around, pomplemouse, avocado, mango, lemon, breadfruit, noni and more.

Hike to waterfall in Daniel;s Bay

Hike to waterfall in Daniel;s Bay

There is a freshwater stream that runs along the “town” that enables them to bring their boats in during high tide.  A super small, but efficient church, a cemetery on the hillside and very practical homes.

Daniel's Bay village

Daniel’s Bay village

Each home had a sign indicating the address of the inhabitant.  Either carved in stone or etched in a piece of wood.

Local plot claims

Local plot claims

Waterfall Hike

Daniel’s Bay (Hakatea Bay) is known for the tallest waterfall in French Polynesia.  The locals told us that the falls would be “dry” because it is summertime.  However, it is still a pretty nature walk so we forged ahead.  The trail continued down the main dirt road lined with beautiful and colorful flora and fauna.  At one point, it looked like it was covered in snow from the pods that fell and littered the walkway with white fuzz.

One road in Daniel's Bay

One road in Daniel’s Bay

The road turned into forest and became more of a small path.  Lots of rocks, boulders and ruins could be found here.  You could certainly find remnants of an old village which was fascinating.

Ruins along the path to the waterfall

Ruins along the path to the waterfall

After 1.5 hours we arrived at the “waterfall” or what I like to call a “trickle fall” since there was truly very little water coming down the mountain.  It sure was pretty and we could imagine how breathtaking it was.

Hakatea Bay Waterfall

Hakatea Bay Waterfall

At the bottom of the “falls” is a fresh water pool, but it was stagnant and not too appealing.  However, when you turned your back to the falls you were surrounded by lush greenery and mountains.

Just a couple of posers

Just a couple of posers

Hike to Waterfall in Hakaui was 6 miles, 15,838 steps and up 14 floors.  A good workout.

Lunch Local Style

On the way to the waterfall, we ran into Kua and Tieki who are known for their tasty cuisine.  We told them we would be back for lunch around noon.  Matt and Wayne are part goat and practically ran up and back from the falls.  We finished the hike in just over 3 hours so we had time to kill before lunch.

When we arrived, two other cruisers were seated under the awning and little table was set up in their garden for Matt, Wayne and I.  It so pretty to be in the middle of the fruit trees, flowers and plants.  They grilled lobster for me and goat for the boys.  It was pretty darn tasty and not bad for a total of $40.

Lunch with Teiki and Kua

Lunch with Teiki and Kua

Beach Walk

We needed to walk off our large lunch so we took the dinghy to a neighboring beach.  We found lots of crabs and had fun playing with a rather large one and a stick.  The poor thing must have been traumatized because he hid in my footprint after we left.

Beach walk and crab friends

Beach walk and crab friends

To our great surprise, our neighbors from Ua Pou, Peneque showed up and anchored next to us.  They were the super nice French people who heled us out and never squawked at us for bumping fenders for 3 weeks during the festival.

Hakatea Bay with Peneque

Hakatea Bay with Peneque