Tag Archives: Holandes Cays

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

Texas Friends in the House: Part III

We enjoyed a lazy day on the boat and in the water in the Western Holandes and made a plan to head to Carti the next day.  Matt and I had been here before, but we wanted to show our friends the true Kuna experience.

It was a perfect downwind sail with light winds on a sunny day.  Josh and Sara helped us hoist the small spinnaker, we shut the engines off ,and enjoyed the motion of the ocean.

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

We arrived to Carti with no incident, but had a devil of a time finding a good anchoring spot.  This anchorage has really deep areas and a few shallow parts so boats congregate around the shallow parts.  We tried 8 or 9 times and could not get it to stick properly.  It was frustrating for everyone.  Finally, Davey stuck and we had a beer!  Our friends from “Itchy Foot” met us here and we all headed to shore.

We had 2 overly stuffed bags of trash and another bag of cans that we desperately wanted off the boat.  We dropped our trash at the little market that has a panga pick up and drop off on the main land.   Once of the few places you can bring your trash as Kuna have a tendency to drop it directly in the ocean.

We wanted to visit the Kuna museum and had heard that the English-speaking guide would be there.  A nice local showed us how to get to the museum as it is a hard to find.  Once we got there, we discovered that the one English-speaking guide was off island getting drunk during a multi-day celebration.  Shoot.  We decided to pay $3 each to go inside just to see what they had.

It was a really small space, about 20×20 filled floor to ceiling with artifacts, clothing, hieroglyphics, and some brief explanations.

Images: Top: Museum sign, ulu or dugout.  Second Row: hut structure, worship piece.  Bottom row: information on how they bury their dead (in hammocks), pottery, and classic men’s top.

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Ancient Hieroglyphics, animal skulls, pottery where they ferment liquor for celebrations, worship idols, clothing and mola fabric.Kuna Museum on Sugdup

Kuna Museum on SugdupThe little museum was really, really hot so we were all in need of a cold beverage.  Matt hunted down a local bar, as only he can sniff those out.  On the way, we stopped at a panderia and bought bread and a few gifts for Josh and Sara’s kids.

The beer was cold and cheap and the bar was on the water.  Good friends, cold beer, and beautiful scenery.  Perfect setting to enjoy our libations.

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

On the way back to the boat, we stopped at the market to get some fresh fruits and veggies.  They were pretty well stocked, but not as good as the first time we stopped by the week before.  I think Josh and Sara were grossed out by the freezer that had freshly plucked chickens lying about – not in packaging, just hanging out featherless in a clump.  We did not pick any up.

Back on the boat, we enjoyed another fabulous dinner concocted by Matt and a rum tasting followed.  Matt is famous for inflicting his rum tasting on friends, but Josh and Sara mastered the challenge. It’s always sad to say goodbye, but we know they will be back.

See Texas Friends In the House:

Sea Treasures

Holandes Cays, Panama

We enjoyed a lazy morning, reading, blogging, and breakfast. We thought we would try to circle back to Ogopsibudup where we caught a glimpse of internet before going to our next anchorage. However, wifi alluded us, so we moved onward and stayed within the Holandes Cays.

We motored 9 miles to the Holandes Cays, which is a set of 21 mostly uninhabited islands broken into 3 groups: Western, Eastern, and Central Holandes Cays. These are a favorite stop for cruisers as it lies behind a 7-mile protected barrier reef. The Guna refer to these islands as the “Kaimou” and the Columbian traders refer to the Holandes Cays as “Mauqui.”

Our destination is the most popular anchorage in San Blas, the swimming pool anchorage which is located between Banedup and BBQ island in the Eastern Holandes Cays.

Four other boats were already at this anchorage when we arrived, but the bay is large enough for everyone. The spot we picked gave us an unobstructed view of the reef from the bow and an island view from the stern. We jumped in the pretty water, checked the anchor, and snorkeled over to the reef.

The sea floor was covered in huge sand dollars, both live and dead. We picked a few as souvenirs and moved on toward the reef where we were greeted by a majestic spotted eagle ray that had a 6’ wing span. He was so beautiful gliding through the water! There were several coral heads, a few fish, and even some new coral head growing among the grass. On the way back, I found a beautiful sea biscuit and Matt pointed out a really thick stingray with a stubbed tail. He had some girth! We hovered and watched him glide by not even giving us a second glance.

Sea Treasures

Sea Treasures

As we were drying off on the sugar scoops, another dugout arrived selling more molas. This master mola marker’s name was “Venancio” and his molas were extremely elaborate and intricate, but since I had bought one yesterday, I just admired.

BBQ island got its name from the many barbeques cruisers have on the island. We thought we’d check it out, so we hopped in Sweetie, pulled her up on the beach, and started walking toward the make-shift bonfire. A local and his son approached us and informed us that there is a $3 per person charge for tourists. Hmmm. We did not bring any money, considering we came over in our swimsuits, so turned around and left. I can appreciate his entrepreneurial spirit, but $3 per person seems a bit unreasonable to walk around a very tiny island. They had a few hammocks, a hut (which is where they live, we assume), and a few make shift tables.

BBQ Island

BBQ Island

We checked out another nearby island to see if it could work as an impromptu substitute for bbq island.  Sweetie was left ashore and we started walking around, but before we got too far, we were immediately attacked by no-seeums. Poor Matt, his body is littered with bug bites, guess he is much sweeter than Wayne and I.

Back to the boat for pork chops and baked potatoes.

Lots of Islands Visited:

  • Holandes Cay
  • BBQ Island
  • Banedup