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Bora Bora illuminated in the background

Bora Bora Insights

Bora Bora is one of the most famous islands in French Polynesia (next to Tahiti).  It is a small island covering 38 kilometers and has two towering mountains.  The tallest Mt Otemanu is 727 meters tall.  This island was formed 4 million years ago after many volcanic eruptions.  The eruptions continued over hundreds of thousands of years.  Since then, the island like all islands, in French Polynesia has been and continues to sink.  Its lagoon is encircled by a wide coral reef that encloses several big motus with white sandy beaches.

Bora Bora's lagoon and surrounding motu's

Lagoon and surrounding motu’s

The island’s initial name was “Pora” and then that changed to “Pora Pora” which means first born – the first island drawn out of the ocean after the creation of Havai’l (Raitea).

A little History about this island:

  • Originally called “Pora” then “Pora Pora” and finally “Bora Bora”
  • 1769 Captain Cook discovers the island
  • 1888 The island attaches itself to France
  • 1942 U.S builds large navy base and airport
  • 10,550 Inhabitants which entirely cater to tourism
  • 7 million years old and is considered nearly an “atoll”
  • 1946 Americans left the island

New “Rules” Impacting Cruisers

In May 2019, Bora decided to mandate that all visiting yachts must use moorings and be charged for the service.  Prior to May, yachts were able to anchor in approved anchor zones at no charge like all the other islands in French Polynesia.  This new “rule” has been wildly unpopular for a number of reasons.

  1. The main purpose of forcing cruisers to use these moorings was because the locals were not using lights at night and were running into anchored boats. Not sure how this is the fault of the visiting yachts….
  2. The fees are expensive.
  3. The boats are not insured should the mooring fail and no plan has been put into effect to check and maintain the moorings.
  4. Eleven boats have had moorings fail since this rule has been in place June 1, 2019.

We prefer to anchor because we know our ground tackle and we trust our skills and expertise in anchoring.  We also don’t have to rely on anyone or anything else to keep our boat, our home safe.

Cruisers are certain this is just another revenue generating tactic that will be implemented in other French Polynesian islands.  It will be interesting to see how this plays out in the upcoming months.

Bora Bora is known as “the pearl of French Polynesia” but to be honest, it is very touristy and crowded.  It is beautiful, has crystal clear turquoise waters, green mountains, and friendly locals.  But Raitea, Mo’orea, and Taha’a have the same things with far less tourists, free anchorages, and a more intimate feeling.

Bora Bora illuminated in the background

Bora Bora illuminated in the background

Because Bora Bora is so well known it can get crowded with tourist.  But knowing the hidden gems and out of the way activities makes this a magical place.

Taha'a Unique Palm Tree

Taha’a Island Tour

Last week we shared part of our Taha’a Island Tour with Vanilla Tours Taha’a at the organic vanilla farm.  So, let me tell you about the rest of our fabulous day!  If you missed part I visit “The Vanilla Bean Story

QUIZ – WHAT IS THIS?

What do you think this is a photo of?  Think hard…look at the shape and guess.  I will give you a clue, all residents have to go to the Poste to pick up their mail so it is not a mailbox.  See the answer in the photo caption.

Guess what this is used for?

Guess what this is used for?

After our amazing vanilla farm tour, we headed to Noah’s home and headquarters of Vanilla Tours Taha’a.  They have spectacularly lush and colorful botanical garden across their entire property.  It also includes a field of lime, banana, pomplemouse and grapefruit trees.  Check out their open-air kitchen below.

Vanilla Tour Taha'a Property

Vanilla Tour Taha’a Property

Noah showed us a very unusual palm tree – check out the pitch form spread at the top – this is highly unusual

Taha'a Unique Palm Tree

Taha’a Unique Palm Tree

TAHA’A ISLAND VIEWS

Noah stopped along the way to let us take photos of the majestic views and to show us the local flora and fauna.

Beautiful views of Taha'a

Beautiful views of Taha’a

DO IT IF YOU DARE…

We stopped on the side of the road where Noah picked 8 stems with these little purple flowers on it.  The flowers are edible.  So we each, tentatively took a nibble and to our surprise they left a mushroom taste behind.

At another short stop he picked a fern type stem and handed it to each of us.  We found that when you put the leaf on your skin, smacked it hard it left a lovely white tattoo behind.  You have to look hard as it is faint, but it is there…I put it on my leg, but one of our companions put it on his forehead.

Exciting Experiments with Plants

Exciting Experiments with Plants

HEIVA

It is Heiva in French Polynesia which is the annual celebration.  Each island holds different festivals which include dance, music and sporting competitions.  The events include tossing a javelin at a coconut to see who hits the target, outrigger races, coconut shucking and more.  While we were there, they were practicing shucking coconuts and filling baskets with hand shredded coconut meat.  We caught the coconut competition on Taha’a Island.

Heiva Coconut Competition

Heiva Coconut Competition

TAHA’A RHUM DISTILLERY

Taha’a Island has its own distillery as well.  This distillery not only makes rum, but they process sugar cane, tamanu oil, bug spray, coconut oil, vanilla beans (organic small scale), and coconut meat.  We did a small rum tasting as we are not fans of “rhum” which is stronger and a bit bitter.

Taha'a Rhum Distillery

Taha’a Rhum Distillery

We also got to see them process coconut meat using a machine (as opposed to the people at the Heiva festival who were doing it by hand).  See top 2 photos.  Check out the hand drill used in churning the coconut meat (top right picture).  The middle row shows the pure coconut water extracted from the meats.  The bottom photo is their sugarcane processing.  One bundle (bottom left) is about 1.5 tons and it takes 2 tons to fill each container.  They use the sugar cane in their rhum and sell the rest.

There is a “stinky” fruit that we’ve seen in the Gambiers as well.  It is called “NONI” and it is actually a great anti-oxidant.  It boosts your immune system and helps you stay healthy longer.  Locals will take a shot a day for 10 days, then take one week off before repeating the process.  The noni is the 5th largest export from French Polynesia

Noni Stinky but Healthy

Noni Stinky but Healthy

After our tour, we packed up the boat and headed toward Riatea.  Wayne’s clock is ticking and we wanted to show him a few more islands before he left.  We stopped at Uturoa to fuel up and made use of our “duty free” certificate that we got from Tahiti Crew.  Wow, it saved us over $300 in fuel!  Sweet.

We were losing the light so we picked up a mooring ball right outside Uturoa (pronounced “ew-tuh-ew-roa”) for the night.  A beautiful sunset danced across the sky over dinner.

Sea Anenome in Coral Gardens, Tautau

Tautau and the Coral Gardens

The maramu finally started to dissipate so we took advantage of the break in wind and made the short 30nm sail from Huahine to Tahaa.  Raiatea and Tahaa are enclosed in the same reef which has 10 passes.  We entered through the Toahotu Pass on the eastern side, went between Raiatea and Tahaa and up the western side to a motu called Tautau.  Imagine our surprise when we realized we anchored in front of the “coral gardens” one of the best snorkeling spots in French Polynesia.  The photos below show the beautiful pass entrance complete with lush, green hillsides, remote islands, and beachfront property.

Pass Entrance Between Raiatea and Tahaa

Pass Entrance Between Raiatea and Tahaa

We anchored in 10 meters of turquoise, clear water.  However, we ended up sitting in 2 meters of water by the time we let out scope.  We enjoyed watching a family of sting rays glide by under the boat.

Matt jumping out of the water behind the boat

Matt jumping out of the water behind the boat

Ile Tautau is “technically” a private island with a small hotel called “Tahaa Pearl Resort” complete with many thatched huts hovering over the water.

Tahaa Hotel Complete with Thatched Huts Over the Water

Tahaa Hotel Complete with Thatched Huts Over the Water

CORAL GARDENS

By sheer luck, we anchored in front of “ coral gardens ” which lies between the two motus (sandy spits).  We had not heard about the coral garden and certainly did not know where it was located – so lucky us!

GoogleMap of Coral Gardens

GoogleMap of Coral Gardens – photo courtesy of “Snorkeling Report

The coral garden is the most renowned snorkeling spot of Tahaa. This crystal clear water channel, which separates two motus, is located in an idyllic setting in the middle of one of the largest lagoons of Polynesia. While let yourself drift over colorful and preserved corals, you will observe alternately school of butterfly fish, lion fish, brightly colored wrasse, clown fish huddled in their anemones and great giant clams sunbathing right under the surface of the sea.

Tautau anchorage in front of Coral Gardens

Tautau anchorage in front of Coral Gardens

Coral Gardens is the name of the cut between the two motus.  We ended up walking “sweetie” as it got pretty shallow.

It was pretty surprising how shallow the gardens are.  We jumped in at about 2 meters and began our swim.  As we continued up the cut, the depth varied between 2 meters to 2″ just below our bellies.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

A healthy, red, soft sea anemone was busy cleaning several fish.  I watched the fish swim in and out of the sea anemone.  It was a beautiful dance together.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

The fish were particularly curios and friendly coming right up to my mask as I hovered over their underwater home.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Save Coral Gardens

This true to life aquarium was magnificent to swim in – what a blessed opportunity we had exploring this oasis.  Typically this is a drift snorkel where the current carries you through the corals and down the channel.  However, the weather was screwy with us due to remnants of the maramu and we had no current – which was fabulous.  We could swim up and back at our own pace with no current.

Imagine my horror as I researched the history to learn that the years and public have been  hard on the environment.  The devastation has been exponential which is just heart breaking.

The tour companies bring tourists in by foot and they trample on the coral and sea life.  Plus some areas are so shallow you rub or touch the coral as you swim overhead.  Not sure how to remedy this other than to shut down certain areas.