Tag Archives: society archipelago

Liward Islands

We splash Sugar Shack a few weeks after we returned from the USA.  She is so pretty and dolled up that I hate to see even a spec of dirt on her.  But it’s a boat and our home and dirt is bound to happen!  We have lots to do to prepare to leave from French Poly!  But first, we decide to head to the liward islands of Huahine, Raiatea, Taha’a.  If we have to do boat chores and paperwork, we mine as well as do it in a picture-perfect setting!

Huahine

Amazing passage from Mo’orea to Huahine.  We typically make this passage at night because it is 90nm and it is difficult to make during daylight hours.  However, we had the perfect opportunity to make a go of it less than 12 hours after we arrived in Mo’orea. So, we took it.

We got up at 0400 (4:00am) and readied the boat.  Hook was up at 0430, and we rounded the Mo’orea corner at 0530.  We had a perfect beam reach with no swell.  Winds were 12-15kts out of the NE giving us a beautiful boat speed of 7-8kts.  Absolutely spectacular sailing day.

  • Miles to Destination:  91nm
  • Total Miles Sailed:  95.3nm
  • Total duration:  12.5hrs
  • Max Speed: 11.8
  • Average Speed: 7.5

We of course stop in at Izzy’s Burgers where I grab another photo of Isabel and I.  Man alive these are amazing burgers! Matt had the Huahine Burger which had bacon and topped with an egg!

Isabel and I at Izzy's Burgers

Isabel and I at Izzy’s Burgers

My dear friend Eve on sailing vessel “Auntie” and I went on a 7 mile walk to the Fare Pote Museum.  We got up early to avoid the heat and walked as the sun woke up the island.  It was so darn pretty!

Eve and I in Huahine

Eve and I in Huahine

We pass a few beautiful lakes/lagoons and just take in the pure beauty of the stillness.

We passed this super funny looking baguette holder – it is a large barrel. I guess they really like their baguettes.

We pass by a church where the sun lit it from the inside out.

Arriving at the Fare Pote Museum we capture a few photos of the sacred Mare.

Good Times: Good Friends – Huahine

For the past few years, I have been participating in an SSB radio net.  We have 7 volunteers who run this daily net that tracks vessels underway and monitors anchorage and weather conditions.  We have tracked vessels as far as Fiji, New Zealand, Hawaii and Alaska!  It is a rare occurrence when we are in the same anchorage, but it just so happened that 4 of the 7 net controllers were in Huahine.  So, we gathered onboard Sugar Shack for happy hour!

Poly Mag Net Controllers

Poly Mag Net Controllers

We also enjoyed many happy hours at the Huahine Yacht Club.  I captured many beautiful sunset photos here.  The sunsets are truly beautiful in the liward islands (well who am I kidding, they are beautiful everywhere).

Huahine Yacht Club

Huahine Yacht Club

This photo was taken without filters or editing!  Just my amazing iPhone 13 Pro Max doing its thing.

Taha’a – Coral Gardens

Eventually we tear ourselves away from Huahine and our friends.  We head to another liward island called Taha’a which is one of two islands inside the same lagoon.  We anchor near a beautiful resort to “borrow” their wifi and complete some of our necessary paperwork (see next blog on preparing to leave French Poly).

We find a new coral gardens that we dutifully named “the secret coral gardens” because only  locals seem to know about it.  Same drift snorkel but the coral and fish are a lot more healthier.  Wow what a difference man has made to the underwater world (and not in a good way). 

A few of our cruiser friends gathered for a dinghy drift.  We tied our dinghies together, enjoyed some cold drinks and snacks as the sun went down.

Raiatea

Perles d’O

We wanted to hide for a little bit, but it did not work out as planned.  The anchorage was not as comfortable as we had hoped so we ended up returning to Raiatea.  But it was pretty. 

Entering Pearl d'O Anchorage

Entering Pearl d’O Anchorage

There is a little, old pearl farm shack that is no longer in use called “Pear d’O”.

Pretty sunset with Bora in the back ground.

Raiatea

One of our favorite anchorages is in front of a small 8-room pension (hotel) called La Pirog.  We’ve stopped here many times, search our blog for past visits.  It is so pretty and is the perfect place for a sunset cocktail.

La Pirog Resort

La Pirog Resort

Day out on Sugar Shack

Our friends on sailing vessel Domum have been in the Raiatea Carenage yard for well over a month working on their boat so we decided to take them out for a day on Sugar Shack.  We motored (because there was no wind) two hours from the Carenage to the coral gardens in Taha’a.

Domum on Sugar Shack

Domum on Sugar Shack

Bora Bora

We end our time in French Polynesia in Bora Bora.  Not because it is “Bora Bora” but because it is the western most island where we can easily launch on our two week passage.  Plus we wanted to stop by Bloody Mary’s one more time.  Our friends on Grace (Dave and Helen), Rhapsody (John and Aida), and Askari (Carolyn and Andrew) joined us for happy hour, then we moved it to the dining room for an extremely tasty dinner.

And just for giggles…one more visit to the men’s room where their “flush” pull is very unique.

Goodbye Bora Bora….this is Hotel Conrad

 

During all this fun in the liwards we are dutifully preparing for our two-week passage from French Polynesia to Fiji.  Stay tuned for the next blog post where I explain all of our hard work to get ready for a huge passage.

Sugar Shack gets dolled up for her passage to Fiji.  Check out our experience a Raiatea Carenage.  Events from this blog in early April, 2022.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

Marina Papeete Sunset

Tahiti Madness Part I

A big part of me dreads coming to Tahiti.  First, because it is the epicenter for the pandemic.  The majority of the cases in French Polynesia are in Tahiti and people visiting this area have brought the virus back to the outer islands.  So, we have to be extra careful here to avoid catching covid.  Second, it means we have tons of chores, errands, and tasks which are exhausting.  And third, we will be spending loads of money.  It is why I call it Tahiti Madness when we come here.  A whirl wind of organized chaos and this visit is no different.

We arrived in Papeete around 10:15 from Huahine.  We had hoped to arrive much earlier.  In retrospect, we should have left on Sunday and arrived on Monday, but you know, hind sight is 20/20.  Our goal was to find a slip at Marina Papeete so we would have easy access to the downtown stores for a few days.  Then we thought we would move out to the anchorage and finish the rest of our errands from a different location.

The wind was blowing pretty darn good causing white caps in and around the marina.  Not a good sign as it can be challenging to maneuver the boat into a slip in those conditions.  But we got lucky as our friends on Garulfo helped us into the slip (after two false starts).  

Off to the Races – Day 1

After we secured the boat, we had to run to an appointment with the U.S. Consulate.  We were scheduled to meet him at 1100, but missed that time.  He graciously said he would wait for us if we could get there before 1200.  Well, that ruled out the bus because their schedule is on island time.  So, we hopped in a cab for the 10-mile journey.  $30 later we arrived, hopped out, and ran to the photo store to get Matt’s passport photo.  Then upstairs to the U.S. Consulate. (Stay tuned for a blog post called “Passport and Visa Mess” coming soon)

It was a huge relief to get that passport renewal process started.  Once we returned downtown, we headed for the marina office.  We needed to let them know we arrived, pay for the slip, obtain a security card, and load money on another card for our electricity and water.  Super nice folks at Marina Papeete!  Now that we are legal we headed to a late lunch because we were starved.

After lunch, we swung by two sporting goods stores to see if they had a volleyball and volleyball net for our friends in Gambiers (Herve and Valerie).  Remarkably, we found both, noted the prices and headed back to the boat. We needed to confirm with them that they still wanted these items and had not bought them since the last time we were there.

Marina Work

Back at the marina, Matt took advantage of the cheap water and washed down the boat.  It was incredibly salty from our passage and needed a good rinse.

As Matt was working on the outside, I was working on paperwork for our long-stay visa renewals and Matt’s passport. 

Before we knew it, it was time for the net and I was net controller.  As I’m wrapping up the net, I hear someone tell Matt that we have to move.  We are in their private slip.  Seriously!  Ugh.  I wrap up the net quickly, enlist our friends on Garulfo again, and we move 4 slips down on the same pier.  This spot was taken earlier so we were super happy it was available now.  The winds had virtually stopped and with the help of our friends, we eased in with no issues.

To wrap up our first day of Tahiti madness, we had happy hour on Garulfo.  It was a short night as we were exhausted from the lack of sleep during our previous passage night.

Tahiti Madness – Day 2

We slept long and hard waking up refreshed and ready for our busy day.  There was lots of ground to cover so we got started early.  Left the boat at 0730 and headed for the industrial area which is 1.2 miles away.  Matt needed to purchase bearings for the water maker.  Lucky for us, the guy had exactly what we needed and within 5 minutes we were walking toward our second stop, the Champion grocery store.  This will be the first of many grocery runs.  Back to the boat to drop off the first load.

Ocean 2000, a marine store was our next stop.  They close at 12n so we had to hustle to make it there on time.  We picked up the red button for the Yamaha kill switch, teak oil for our exterior wood, fuses, some other bits.  On the way back toward the boat, we stopped in Maxi’s which is a store where you can buy food in bulk (like Costco or Sam’s).  We had to be careful here as we could only buy what we could carry.  Unfortunately, we went overboard buying in bulk (minced garlic, snacks, ziplock bags, salsa, peanut butter, etc…).  Will have to come back for round 2.

Loaded down, we started the long walk back to the marina.  On the way, we made one more stop to Olympian Sports to buy the volleyball net and ball.  It was on the way, but seriously I needed a break from carrying the bags.  We continued on to the marina and unloaded our 2nd load.  This photo shows only the first load, we return to the market and bulk store the next day and the fresh market right before we left Papeete.

The Madness Continues

A quick lunch at the market, and off we go again.  We are in full blown Tahiti madness mode.   A mile later we arrive to Sing Tung Hung another marine store where we grab a few items.  Then we stop at Ace hardware (2 stores) for more boat supplies (cleaning agents, brushes, silicone, blue tape, etc…). A quick stop at the bank for local currency and back to the boat for the 3rd time.

Finally, back at the boat, but we are not done yet.  The sun is still up and there is work to do.  Matt starts working on removing the main sail.  (Look for the post “Main Sail Maintenance” coming soon).  As Matt is working outside, I work on stowing our goodies.  It’s not as easy as you’d think as we remove all packaging (cardboard attracts bugs), label all lids with content and expiry date, wrap blue tape on all metal items (cans), and then stow it safely on the boat.

We walked over 8 miles today, most of it schlepping bags.  No wonder my body is protesting!

Sunset in the marina

Coming up next, more of our Tahiti madness adventures.

Events from this blog occurred on 21 October 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

La Pirog API

Ilot Moute – La Pirog API Resort

Low winds were predicted for a few days so we decided to head to the east side of Taha’a.  Last year we anchored near Ilot Moute where a small 8 room resort called La Pirog called home.  Remembering it as a beautiful location, we decided to go back with our friends Jolly Dogs.

On the way over, our friends on Sea Jay (Chris and Fred) texted and asked where we were headed so they could meet up with us.  We had not seen them since we were in Tahanea well over 4-5 months ago.  Which is cruising terms seems like a lifetime.

Before we left, Baie Tapuamu we zipped over to the market to pick up some fresh bread and eggs.  We dropped the mooring and motored the 14 hours which took us three hours.

INSERT 2 COLLAGE OF ANCHORAGE

La Pirog API Resort

Our friends on Sea Jay, Fred and Chris wanted to have lunch at the little 8-room resort called La Pirog API.  Normally we would shy away from eating meals at resorts because they are expensive and usually not worth it, but we could not resist this time.  Last year we had tried to have lunch or dinner here but management would not let us dine with the guests.  Check out our post from last year.

This year the resort is under new management and they allowed us onshore for drinks, lunch and dinner.  Sea Jay picked us up and we headed to the very small Ilot Moute.

La Pirog API

La Pirog API

The island is really, really small.  You could walk around it in less than 15 minutes.  But it is so darn cute!  They have fun signs posted all over the place.   As you pull in to the dinghy dock, you are greeted by the sign that reads “You are now entering a stress-free zone.”  All guests arrive by boat from Raiatea.  The have a weather telling sign, and a wifi sign as well.

La Pirog Signage

La Pirog Signage

We were greeted at the dock and walked up to the thatch roofed restaurant.  Each table had a fresh bouquet of flowers, a hand carved outrigger was nestled in the corner and a soft breeze kissed our faces as we enjoyed a nice meal.

Restaurant at La Pirog

Restaurant at La Pirog

From the restaurant you can see the small beach and lounge area with bar.

La Pirog Beach Lounge Area

La Pirog Beach Lounge Area

Super fun afternoon.  We can’t make a habit of eating out like this, but every once in awhile it is a special treat.

Exploring Neighboring Motus

There are a few other small motus around Ilot Moute.  So, we decided to go explore them.  The first stop is Ilot Mahavana which is a stone throw away from Ilot Atara.  We arrived first at Ilot Mahavana which was a really clean, well maintained motu.  Surprise surprise!  The water was really shallow between the two motus.  Super pretty little motu with a sandy beach all around it and beautiful palm trees providing shady spots.  You can easily walk out to the reef and look out to the ocean.

           

We found a really nice and well-made structure.  We assume this building is used by charter boats to feed their guests lunch.  There was a separate facility with three toilets and multiple sinks.  In addition, there were several nice seating areas overlooking the bay.

Ilot Atara was a different story. Totally unkempt and not maintained at all.  Coconuts and palm fronds everywhere.  Making it a little challenging to explore.

We had fun playing on the reef and outer edge.  Looking at all the sea life below.

We then headed to another rock with a corroded structure.  This is not big enough to be called a motu.  We think locals come here for the weekend and just toss a tarp over the rebar.  Just past the rock is a huge fish trap.  We found a trapped spotted stingray and tried to help him get out.  Unfortunately, we just could not persuade him to leave.  Poor thing. 

We had Fred and Chris over for dinner as we are going our separate ways tomorrow.  We may not see them for a year or two.

Chris, Fred, me and Matt

Chris, Fred, me and Matt

Matt’s Drone Shots

The water is so pretty here that we decided to break out the drone.  Jolly Dogs and Sea Jay are here with us, but we are spread out enough that we don’t crowd each other.

La Pirog anchorage Ilot Moute

La Pirog anchorage Ilot Moute

Depending on how you angle the drone you can make it look like we are all by ourselves.

Ilot Moute Tahaa

Ilot Moute Tahaa

And a great shot of Sugar Shack from straight above.

Ilot Moute Tahaa

Ilot Moute Tahaa

Events of this blog occurred around 8-12 September 2020.  Our blog runs 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.