Monthly Archives: November 2019

The Brando Resort

The History behind Teti’aroa atoll

Imagine a vacation spot for Tahitian royalty that also captured the heart of Marlon Brando.  That spot is located 33 miles north of Tahiti called Teti’aroa atoll.  It’s a small atoll with 12 small motus.  The lagoon in the center of the atoll is 4.3 miles wide and 30 meters deep.  However, there is no reef opening which makes access impossible for boats.

It’s hard to imagine that Tahitians need a vacation from Tahiti, an island paradise.  However, the Teti’aroa atoll became a place for Tahitian chiefs to entertain themselves.  What did that consist of?  Song, dance, fishing and feasting. It was also a special place for the ariori to practice their custom of ha’apori’a. Which included eating to gain weight and whitening their skin. Plump and pale was a sign of “well-being and prosperity” for the chiefs.

The red triangle is Sugar Shack.  The blue arrow shows you where the Brando Resort is located. Green arrow is the airport.

Teti'aroa motus

Teti’aroa motus

History of Teti’aroa

William Bligh was the first European to visit the atoll in 1789. He was looking for early mutineers.  In 1904, the royal family sold the motu to Johnston Walter Williams. Williams, a Canadian national was the only dentist in Tahiti. Williams managed the islets as a residence and a copra plantation.

Marlon Brando “discovered” Teti’aroa in 1960 while scouting filming locations for Mutiny on the Bounty. Scenes for that movie were shot on Tahiti and Mo’orea.  Brando purchased Teti’aroa’s atolls from one of Williams’s direct descendants, Mrs. Duran.  The islets were under a 99-year lease by Marlon Brando.  

Teti'aroa aka Brando Island

Teti’aroa aka Brando Island

Wanting to live on the atoll, Brando built a small village on Motu Onetahi in 1970. It consisted of an airstrip, 12 simple bungalows, a kitchen hut, dining hall, and bar.  Everything was built from local materials. Those included coconut wood, thatch roofs and even large seashells for sinks. The village became a place for friends, family and scientists. Particular those studying the atoll’s ecology and archaeology.  Brando signed a new will and trust agreement that left no instructions for island.

Teti’aroa Pacific Beachcomber SC began construction on Onetahi in 2009. The first phase of building included reconstruction and reorientation of the runway. The islet Onetahi now includes a luxury resort, spa, research station, staff village and private runway.

Locals completed work on The Brando Resort in July 2014.  Eight of Marlon’s eleven children and the Brando Estate manage the motus.

Another fabulous link of the famous The Brando Resort.  You too can stay at the Brando Resort for a mere 3300 euros a night 🙂

Brando resort off Teti'aroa

Brando Island off Teti’aroa

Teti'aroa surge off the mooring

Sweet Sail Day: Tahiti to Teti’aroa

It was time to leave Tahiti, officially.  We left Tahiti “proper” or the main anchorage of Marina Taina a few days ago.  During that time, we were in the sweet anchorage of Point Venus which is still a big part of Tahiti.  We did a little more exploring and found a few large grocery stores, poste, pharmacy, fuel stations, and plumbing shop.  Who knew there would be supplies at the North point of Tahiti?

We met some great cruisers while anchored in Point Venus.  Odyle is a tall ship with a lovely family onboard: Abraham, Susan, Saoirse and Cian.  They’ve been at this anchorage for a few months repairing their engine, but all is good now.  We also met JollyDogs and Zeizo who are both American boats.  Great anchorage and good company.  Couldn’t resist inserting another cool shot of the famous lighthouse.

Point Venus Lighthouse

Point Venus Lighthouse

Sweet Sail

We raised the main sail, pulled up the hook and set out to a new island. We were both excited about visiting Teti’aroa as it is a small atoll with no access into the lagoon.  There are a few moorings just outside the reef that are available for charters and cruisers.  We were hoping to get lucky enough to snag one of the moorings.

Our sail over to Teti’aroa was amazing.   We shut the engines off just after leaving the reef. We had full sails, small swell, and wind on the beam.  It was a glorious day with blue skies, puffy clouds and calm seas.  Just another reminder why love sailing – picture perfect.

Passage Details:

Miles Traveled:  29.2nm

Duration:  4.5 hrs

Avg. Speed: 5.8

Max Speed: 9.4

Wind Speed: 10-12 kts

Swell:  .5 meters on the beam

About a few miles out from the atoll we could see 3 masts.  We were a bit crestfallen as we had heard there were only 3 moorings here.  However, we were determined to check it out up close.  It is pretty darn scary to see the reef breaking in front of and so close to the boats.

We entered the breakwater and motored around the three boats.  To our surprise we saw that there was a free mooring just behind them.  Sweet!  We tied up and enjoyed the show.  What show are you thinking?  One of the charter boat captains was bringing in his guests and had to navigate the reef and rather large waves.  It is an art to be able to get their dinghy through this dangerous area.  The surge is breaking less than 30 meters from the boat.  Hope this mooring holds our boat.

Teti'aroa surge off the mooring

Teti’aroa surge off the mooring

It is a breezy, but also rolly.  The surge is big, and the waves are loud.

Surge at Teti'aroa

Surge at Teti’aroa

French Polynesia Poly Magnet SSB Group

Absorbed into Tahiti

We had only planned on spending a week in Tahiti, but that was written in sand during low tide.  It is easy to get absorbed into a routine here.  Especially when you have access to supplies, marine stores, markets, and fresh goods.  In addition, you have lots of cruising friends to keep you entertained.  We ran into our good friend Barry on Adventures of an Old Seadog, Mike from “Easy”, Josh and Rachel from Voyages of Agape, Niki and Peter on Sailmore, James and Kimmie from Zingaro, Adam and Daniel from Reverence, and James from Moonrise.

Barry is always good for a million laughs and superb stories.  We hung out with him and Mike from “Easy” several times before Barry headed toward New Zealand.  Barry was in a slip at the Papeete Marina, so we often went into town and stopped by.

Barry from Adventures of an Old Seadog

Barry from Adventures of an Old Seadog

We “controlled” ourselves for the most part, but typically the four of us can be trouble..  From left to right: Barry, me, Matt and Mike (top).  Barry is pretending to be grumpy but he comes across simply adorable.

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Matt and I participate in the French Polynesia Poly Magnet which is a twice daily SSB net where cruisers report their position underway and share news and information.  Birget from “Pitufa” held a happy hour so that everyone could meet the face behind the voices.  It was really interesting to meet these folks face to face as we have been hearing their voices for months.

French Polynesia Poly Magnet SSB Group

French Polynesia Poly Magnet SSB Group

After our happy hour, we walked a few miles to a food truck park where we enjoyed tasty pizza, pasta and burgers.

Food Trucks in Tahiti

Food Trucks in Tahiti

Provisioning in Papeete

In between all the fun, we have worked on boat projects (see list below) and provisioned the boat.  There is a huge fresh market downtown Papeete.  You can get fresh goods, trinkets, souvenirs, and oh so much more.

Fresh Market in Papeete

Fresh Market in Papeete

We had not seen our good friend James since Panama and it was a real treat to hang out with him again.

James from Moonrise with Sugar Shack

James from Moonrise with Sugar Shack

Our friends on Reverence, Adam and Daniel invited Agape and us over for happy hour.  It was really nice to see their beautiful boat, a 58′ Tiana.  They are flying back to the states and hired a crew to deliver their boat back to San Francisco for them where they plan to sell her.

Adam, Daniel, Rachel, Josh, Matt and I

Adam, Daniel, Rachel, Josh, Matt and I

You can easily get absorbed into a routine in Tahiti.  We did not mean to stay almost a month that’s for sure.  But at least we were productive, had fun, and engaged with lots of people.  Being “absorbed” isn’t all bad.

Boat Projects Completed:

  • Starboard engine circulation water pump replaced
  • Starboard toilet joker replaced
  • Replaced two water hoses for the freshwater pumps in each engine room
  • Installed fuel filter on Sweetie
  • Installed windlass activation switch at Starboard helm
  • Washed down boat
  • Caught up on writing blog and scheduling posts
  • Recaptured and saved photos that were being deleted from iCloud. I now officially hate iCloud!
  • Cleaned half the boat waterline from the muck that grew while anchored in Tahiti

One of the SSB net boats, Winsome lost its engine and had to sail back from the Cook Islands.  We assisted them as they came through the pass and anchored.

Assisting Winsome enter port

Assisting Winsome enter port

This massive sailboat had the most spectacular dinghy.  Check out how the lines of the sailboat and colors match the dinghy.

Matching Dinghy

Matching Dinghy

The days got away from us.  Our routine absorbed us. But, we managed to escape and move on as we have new islands and a new archipelago to explore!