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St Barth’s Les Voiles and Our 2nd Place Win

Two days before Les Voiles  de t Barth was to start we received a message from our good friend Chip Spence who lives in Texas.  He caught in article in Latitude 38 magazine written by Richard Spindler (who was the founder and creator of the publication and is still in author of many articles), which stated he was in search of crew on a Santa Cruz 70, Hotel California too, for the Les Voiles regatta.  What!  I jumped up and down and asked Matt, can we, can we please reply and ask to join this crew?  We had participated in many races with our dear friends from Texas (mostly on Donald’s beautiful yacht Ruthless), but had never participated in a professional regatta in the Caribbean.  As you know, we have been huge spectators and cheerleaders during the Heineken Regatta, Antigua Race Week Regatta, and St. Barth’s Bucket for the last few years, but have never actually raced. He acquiesced, and I fired off an email before he could change his mind.  I included our race history, our sailing yacht, the fact that Matt had his Captain’s license, and that we were already on island.  I also included a super cute photo of us.  Richard responded immediately saying “we were in.”  I’m thinking, wow, just like that we are crew on a 70′ boat – cool!  He informed us that another couple on a Catana 47 will be joining us and low and behold it’s a couple we met last year, Eric and Annie from El Gato.  Richard and I bounced a few emails around and decided to meet the next day.  The entire crew was to meet at the opening party to sign the crew list and get acquainted.  We met Steve, the owner of Hotel California, Richard & Dona, Anna Sepko, Annie & Eric, Steve & De, Barbara, Jen, Marie-Claude, JJ, and the rest of the crew.  There were 17 people signed up for the first day – that’s a big group!

Race Day 1

After gathering on Hotel California, Matt quickly became acclimated.  He was put in charge of organizing the huge pile of dinghy’s that brought everyone out to the boat, securing them on anchor so that we could retrieve them when we returned.  We had our 101 on the boat, which is about 27 years old and has a few quirks. Steve, is at the helm, Annie is the tactician, Matt and Eric worked the main, Anna and JJ were on jib, Bill is at the bow, I am on the preventer (and rail meat), and everyone else is ballast (aka rail meat).  With jobs assigned, dinghy’s secured, main raised we headed to the start.  We Were in a class of 7 boats (CSA 1).  The starting line and finish line are always the most tense, so all was quiet as we listened to Annie give Steve instructions and off we went.  The first race had a lot of tacks!  Which for our non-sailing friends, means turning the boat into the wind and grinding in the sails on the other side of the boat.  Which means Matt had to grind, grind, and grind a lot this day and I had to scooch back and forth across tracks, blocks, cleats and various other boat  pieces each time we tacked in between the other 12 people on the rail.  The sun was shining, the water was blue, the mood on the boat was a bit tense as we were not allowed to chat and there were a lot of people on the rail trying to get over at the same time.  But, we finished 3rd (corrected time) and we were pleased!  Even though everyone was tired, we shared a few cold ones and talked about the race before heading back for showers and the party.

Race Day 2

Have to admit, Matt and are used to “cruising life” and racing was a totally different story.  Everything hurt. But, we managed to make it back to Hotel California for race day 2.  We had lost a few crew members, which was good only in that we had too many people on the boat on day 1.  As we headed for the starting line, everyone begins to jockey for the best position to cross – always a little tense, but we had a good start (thanx to Annie).  However, not long after we crossed, we were coming down on a smaller boat in a different class, Kickem Jenny (a melgas 32′) from St. Maarten who we know from the Heineken Regattas.  We are a much bigger boat and harder to maneuver, but they were on a starboard tack and had right of way.  They did not hear us, their team was distracted, and did not see us until it was too late and the shouting began.  We did not come into contact, but we did force them off course which forced us to do a 360 (race rules because we were at fault).  We later found them to apologize, but frankly it could have been handled much better.  We corrected our mistake and continued the race which was a much easier course as it had a lot of downwind runs – not good for our type of boat with no spinnaker, but a lot easier on the crew.  We ended up finishing 4th on day 2 and off to the party to celebrate.

“Rest Day”

They call it a rest day, but it is actually a huge arse party over at Nikki Beach.  Several of us joined El Gato and we motored over to the other side of the island for the day.  I have to say, Les Voiles knows how to throw a party!  Not only are you at Nikki Beach having a $10 bottle of water and $50 lunch (which was actually pretty good), but you are on one of the prettiest beaches in the world.  The regatta hosted a few games including a treasure hunt where 10 bottles of Veuve Cliequot champaign were buried under water (and 16 people searching for them).  Annie was the proud recipient of one of the bottles – YEAH Hotel California.  Next up was the giant stand up boards where a team of 5 try to knock off the opponents using a boxing glove on an extended pole.  Unfortunately, our eager beaver commits 100% and fell in on a jab, but we had a great time playing and got to keep the memento t-shirt!


Race Day 3

It seems each day of the race we return to Hotel California with even fewer people.  Today we had about 11-12 people.  Now, we have the dinghy process down, raising the main, heading to the start and preparing for a new race.  One of the many great things about Annie our tactician is that she is very positive and keeps everyone well informed about the race course, our goals, our tacks/jibes, and our strategy.  This course would be slow as the wind had died down considerably, but we were ready.  With fewer crew, it meant we have more room to actually work and stay safe.  Anna, a petite young crew member who traveled with Steve from the BVI’s was an extremely hard worker.  She tailed in the jib which is a heck of a job!  But, unfortunately, not 45 minutes into the race, she pulled a muscle in her back and she was in extreme pain.  So, we laid her down, iced her up, gave her some Advil and I was trained on the jib.  I have to say it was much more exciting working the jib than being on the preventer and on the rail.  But it was hard work!  The good thing was that it was low wind, not as dangerous had it been race day 1 or 2 and the boat was moving slow.  It took us over 7 hours to complete the course. We were afraid we were going to be disqualified because we would not cross by the 6p deadline.  Many boats turned their engines on and dropped out.  But, we persevered, crossed before 6p and came in 3rd in our class.  Sweet!

Working the jib--so serious

Working the lines in the cockpit–so serious.

Race Day 4 and Results

Today was predicted to have little to no wind, so we were checking the website and had a few people on shore with the race committee to see if the race was to go on.  It was postponed  a few times, before finally being cancelled.  I have to say, I was a bit relieved.  Anna was on our boat recovering (as we have a cat and it is easier to rest on a bed on Sugar Shack then a monohull rocking and rolling).  After watching Regatta Guru, and adding up the points, we realized we were in 2nd place in our class.  Spirit was disqualified on day 2 because they made contact with another boat and did not do a 360 (plus they had a protest for un-sportsmanship conduct) and another boat was penalized because they crossed over the start line too early and did not do a 360.  You are probably wondering how the results are calculated, right?  The lowest score wins, so if you are 1st place you get 1 point, 2nd place, 2 points, 3rd place three points and so on.  If you are DSQ (disqualified), you get a point for every boat in your class plus 1 (so an additional 8 points in our class).  Ambersail who came in 2nd each day, had 1 DSQ because they started too early and did not do a 360.  Spirit had a DSQ on day 2 because they made contact with another boat and did not do a 360, so even though we technically crossed the line 4th each day, we ended up the the 2nd lowest number of points.  Consistency and sportsman like conduct pays off I guess.

Annie talking me thru a tack while trimming the jib.

Annie talking me thru a tack while trimming the jib.

Award Ceremony

We were thrilled, shocked, excited and amped up to be up on the podium!  First they gave each boat a bottle of Veuve Cliequot champaign (we got a giant bottle because we had a lot of crew) and Anna got to go up and receive it – CHEERS by all!  Then we had the pleasure of going up on stage for our 2nd place trophy, a grand St. Barth’s Book, another bottle of champagne (they were a sponsor), a bottle of rum, and a few other things.  We brought up fireworks and lit them as we got on stage and posed pretty for all the cameras!  Sweet success.  I’d like to tell you about the rest of the night, but there was a lot of celebrating, tons of hugs and two cheek kisses, and then pizza to sober us up.


Galveston was a celebration

It was certainly an interesting show watching Matt get used to driving in a car, going over 10 miles per hour, in traffic.  He is normally the calm, cool, collected one, but in this instance he had a few choice words for fellow drivers.  We both needed a drink once we arrived at the hotel where the festivities were to being immediately upon arrival.  We were here to celebrate the 50th wedding anniversary of our good friends Donald and Ruth.  Yep, you read that right – 50 years together!  What’s equally amazing is that Ruth’s sister will be celebrating her 50th wedding anniversary in a few months, another couple had their 50th anniversary a few months ago, and another couple is going on 54 years.  It is such a blessing to see that type of love is still thriving in so many couples.  It gives you hope that your love can endure despite so many people throwing in the towel.  Donald and Ruth certainly set an amazing example of how it is done and they are an inspiration to us.   I just did the math, Matt and I will be 88/89 respectively when that time comes around for us so we are going to need to ensure we stay healthy!

Upon arrival, we checked in, dropped our bags and bee lined to Shrimp N Stuff, one of Donald’s favorites, where we met the happy couple and Ruth’s brother Gene and Annette.  Early Friday morning Matt and I headed out to run some errands to buy some “boat stuff”.  But first, we had to make a stop at Chick-Fil-A, my favorite and boy was it beyond scrumptious.


Afterwards, we hit Bed, Bath, and Beyond to pick up some kitchen supplies and a mattress topper (we’ve been sleeping on egg cushions on top of a typical boat mattress and although its fine for a few weeks, it is a little hard on the back after a few months).  Then we hit Target and Super Cuts where Matt got his lovely locks cut off by a sweet girl who fresh out of cosmotology school, complete with purple hair and nose ring.  We headed back to the hotel where we met Donald and Ruth in their room and shared stories as I went through our stash they so delightfully brought to us, which included some sundry articles easier found on amazon than in the islands.  I sent over 40 items ranging from courtesy flags, dry bags, ditch bag & medical bag replacements, new windlass remote, essential oils (from my sister) and of course tons and tons of mail from our mail center.  It was like Christmas in April.  Now I just needed to repack it all, in addition to our new purchases in such a way that we can check it all on to the plane.  Friday night a huge group of us headed over to Olympia for dinner which was a precursor to the fun we were to have next night.

Saturday we woke up to a day of fun.  Our hosts had a room blocked for breakfast and then snacks throughout the day.  After breakfast, Matt and I wandered around the historic downtown seaport area.  There are tons of shops, eateries and galleries.  After about an hour of walking we ran into Donald and decided to go to the Children’s fair which had just about every type of activity a kid could want – including Big Bird.  So our resident “Child” waited patiently for her turn in line.

Is Big Bird giving the camera the bird?

After the fair, we headed over to the Texas Seaport Museum (Maritime Museum).  What an interesting museum with information on Elissa the magnificent sailing vessel that we saw during Navy Days in Corpus Christi, to the history of Texas immigrants and more.  It was wonderful.

Matt and I dressing up as arriving immigrants.


Afterwards, lunch, Matt and Charlie headed to the Ocean Stars Offshore Oil Drilling and Rig museum.  Then Matt and I had to learn how to play dress up again, using a blow dryer, full make-up, panties, and heels.  Oh dear, I hope I don’t make a fool of myself in these things.  Everyone looked so gorgeous and happy as we entered cocktail hour. I designated myself the photographer (and sure wished we brought the nice camera) of the weekend and occupied myself by floating in and out of conversations, snapping photos and enjoying a refreshing cocktail.  Kathy and Kerri, Donald’ and Ruth’s daughters gave beautiful heart warming speeches that made everyone laugh and then put on a slide show reviewing Donald and Ruth’s life.  It was so uplifting and beautiful.  Of course, many guests chimed in with their stories and good times were had by all.

The weather had been absolutely perfect since we arrived, but it had to come to an end on the day we were leaving. I think Texas was just sad to see Matt and I leave 🙂  We were expecting a huge storm, with possible tornadoes so we got up early Sunday morning to ensure we made it to the airport in time.  We had to feed and return the car, hop on the shuttle and check all of our baggage.  We had plenty of time to spare.  We loaded onto the plane thinking we made it before the storm.  Pulled away from the jet bridge and sat….the weather had turned and we waited to depart for over 45 minutes.  Normally not a problem as AA had the individual TV screens and I was in the middle of a great movie, but we only had a 60 minute layover in MIA so it looked like we were going to miss our connection.  We landed in MIA 40 minutes late, sprinted to the gate (luckily it was in the same terminal, but the opposite end) and boarded on last call.  What are the chances our luggage made it?  We landed in SXM with no problems, and so did our luggage.  We grabbed everything, hailed a cab and met Contrary Mary folks at the SMYC for some late sun downers, would that be called moon uppers?  It was a whirlwind trip, but so worth it to be side by side with our friends as they celebrated such a beautiful milestone.

Galveston was a celebration of friends and extended family.   Celebrating the commitment and longevity that seems to be hard to come by these day.  Over the years we have learned tons from Donald and Ruth. Recipes, Sailing, Communication, Respect, and of course the Texas history as they knew growing up in Texas for so many years.  We were luck to be included as part of the extended family in their 50 years celebration.. Which is longer than either of has been kicking ourselves.  Inspiring and amazing.

In search of the Oracle

Dropped our stinky trash, raised anchor, and opened up the jib in search of the oracle of goats. Down wind for a short 3 mile run to a “new to us” island, Ile Fourchue. We scored the last mooring. The goats were the last inhabitants of this private island, they ate themselves all the vegetation, which is only now starting to come back, but it was a delightful place to stop. Away from everything, not even cell service was abound and the boats that were there too were spaced out and well behaved.  well most of them. Some of the day charter boats come in and are loud and pick up the moorings like they own the place. At least in here and in Columbier we did see dive crews working/inspecting the moorings and anytime a 60+ footer picked up a mooring they would remind them that they were too big and asked them to move off the mooring ball. Snorkeled a bit on the suggested dive sites, was a bit silty with the wave directions and not a whole lot to see, but we tried a couple of places. Friends were more successful spotting a nurse shark under a ledge, but another relaxing day – tho the mountains were calling.

I got this

Entertainment was watching the “Moorings” boats come in, as it is the first stop  to try and to find a comfortable place to anchor or stop for the evening. The charter boats do not have marks on the anchor chain, so you don’t know how much chain you have out, or how well it will hold. Most charters are not normally used to anchoring out either so its always entertaining. One particularly good show was a moorings boat number 1 came in, with a pretty good crew with the understanding of trying to count the chain as it goes down, select a nice spot and get a good hook. Then a hour later another moorings boat comes in number 2 and anchors on top of  number 1. Number 1 lets it ride till it starts to get late and realizes number 2 is staying. Number 1 picks up and moves, this time takes 3 times to get a comfortable hook for them. Then number 2 decides to move as well, and moves into the spot where number 1 had been all along. Oh well. The best show was when an almost 50 foot monohull comes in just before dark, and tried to anchor but doesn’t get the anchor to go down, and gets “looks” and “bitch arms” (you know when you put your hands on your hips and get in the fighting stance) from already moored boats as they were too close. I was one of the ones who thought they were too close. They tried over 3 times to anchor before they decided to try to pick up a mooring ball.  I kept an eye on them for a while watching as they attempted 6 times to pick up the last remaining mooring ball in the anchorage. I thought, did Moorings checked out the captain’s credentials? Oh well, dropped the dinghy and went over to help them in, just barked orders as to what they needed to do and was able to get them safely on the ball for the night.

Sun rise over the ravines

Squalls at night and we spun around our mooring a few times, and some gusty winds in the valleys between the peaks a good reason to have the boats spread out in that anchorage.

We were up early and had saw another boat dinghy to shore and find a trail to hike on, so we had breakfast and followed along.   They were from Canada and made it to the center valley and we wanted to make it to the peak.


Known for stickers and rocks we actually took shoes on this hike. Some thing really strange about wearing shoes for the first time in months, but definitely came in handy on some slippery rocks.

We hiked to one of the tallest points, using both hands and feets to get over some of the slippery vertical sections. Rewarded with some good views and serious gusts of wind we were still hanging on or sitting down when on the top of the peak. Made it back down and over a few more peaks for fun, took a few pictures and it was about time to head back to Saint Marten. Not sure where we were heading we heard from our fiends on the VHF that the southside was a bit rolly and they were heading the french side – we opted for an around the north side of the island run which was a downwind, in just enough breeze to run on the jib alone for what turned out to be an 18 mile run. We had some decent sun on the solar so we were also making water and just taking an slow run to somewhere.

Half way up the hill

Atop Pikes Peak of Ile Fourche

 

How small we look from up here

 

Previous hikers left a heart in the valley that screamed of a photo op…

Sunset at Ile Fourche

Closer to the Sun

Somewhere turned out to be Anse Marcel – another new stop for us.