Category Archives: Repairs

Rudder Rebuild: The Rudder Part II

In Part I of our Rudder Rebuild 1, we walk you through the steps we took to custom design our new rudder posts.  Now we are ready to custom design each rudder blade.  The shafts had to be completed before we began the design process on the blades. 

Both of our rudders were removed immediately after being hauled out.  We were on the trailer and still dripping with water, but they had to come out now while we could raise the boat high enough to get them out of their casings. 

It is pretty clear that the temporary rudder and our standard one are very different shapes, but the surface measurement is about the same.  The borrowed rudder came off a bigger Catana 50, same manufacturer but very different blades.

The one on the left was borrowed from Norsand and the one on the right is our original 23 year old rudder.

Rudder Casing  is Compromised

After we removed the rudders we stuck our heads below the hole and looked up with a flash light.  To our horror we found a few issues with the rudder casing.  One there is a slight crack at the entrance and two there is a bump inside that was rubbing on the rudder post.  Lucky for us, both are fairly easy repairs.

Peter, the expert glassman and rudder specialist, comes over to help us remove the bearing and do the repairs. The bearing proved to be a bit of a challenge as it did not want to come out.  They get a massive sledge hammer and attack it from the top and bottom.  Once it is out, we sand down the blister, fill and paint it before installing the new bearing and case.  It all sounds simple enough but it took them several hours to complete this project.

As you can see the bearing case (lower two photos) was in need of replacement and lucky for us we had a spare on board.  Evidently, it was not considered “horrible” and still functional but we replaced it anyway.

Getting Started on the Rudders

We hand over our old rudder and the two new shafts.  The foam is cut and patterned to fit our new shafts and tines.  As you can see, the rudder posts and tines support the blade a lot better than our original ones which stopped before the center of the rudder.  Weights are put on the foam to ensure it all sticks together.

We are not on site to watch the exact process so I may be missing steps.  Once the foam is sealed and molded they apply fiber glass.  The rudder on the left is done and the one on the right is in process.

Norsand Takes Over 

Once the fiberglass work is done, they are sanded down.  Then we make the executive decision to apply the Hemple barrier coat instead of the Interprotect barrier coat.  Why did we use a different barrier coat on the rudders than on the bottom of the boat?  The primary reason was we didn’t want to wait 2 weeks for the Interprotect to off gas.  So we used Hemple and dealt with the difficult application process.

The Hemple barrier coat was having a hard time curing which meant they could not sand the peaks and valleys.  We were delayed by 5 days waiting for the paint to cure, sand, tweak, sand, tweak and sand again before the rudders were handed back to us to have Norsand apply the coppercoat.

Norsand quickly covers the rudders in coppercoat repeating the same process as on the bottom paint

Once the coppercoat is dry, they sand the rudders to activate the coppercoat.  Then it is time to fit them.

Does the Shoe Fit?

Must admit that there is a little anxiety about the rudders fitting properly.  We were confident the builder knew what he was doing and did it perfectly, but there is a little niggle in the back of our minds.  We knew they were made much stronger and safer than our previously rudders that were factory made and lasted 23 years.  But it is hard to relax until they are fitted.

The yard has to raise us on the trailer in order for us to be high enough to insert the rudders into their shaft/casing.

Peter, Tony and Kevin are on hand to help us install the rudders.  Matt is inside the engine compartment inserting the bolt (bottom right photos) while Peter and Tony insert the shaft.  It is a perfect fit on port.

Starboard needs a little bigger spacer which we can easily make with help from Rob at RH Precision.  What a relief to have two stronger, well crafted rudders back on the boat!

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog posts occured during over 2 weeks in November.  Did you see how we custom designed our rudder posts in part I?

Rudder Rebuild: The Shaft Part I

As you might recall, we lost a rudder while at sea crossing from Minerva Reef to Tonga – it was an utter rudder disaster.  We managed ok for over 1,000nm with just one rudder before we were able to get our hands on a temproary rudder which we then had custom fit to our boat.

But it is time to replace both rudders now that we are in New Zealand and the boat is hauled out.  We researched many different options including having Jefa Rudders custom design them from the UK; a boat builder in Auckland, NZ;  Foss Boatbuilders in Los Angeles; and considered having Norsand Boatyard do the work. There were pros and cons with each company, so we decided to hire local professionals that we had first hand knowledge of their expertise and skills.  They had already worked on our boat and had years of glassing experience.

The Rudder Shaft

The first thing we have to do is design and build the rudder shafts (or posts).  Technically, both of our rudder shafts are “in tact” but the tines or fingers on the port shaft are damaged.  At the top of the shaft you will see a ring and one tine sticking out.  This is the front of tine and there is supposed to be a back.  The middle tine is broken half way in the front and has no back portion and the bottom tine is completely gone.

Damaged Rudder Shaft with broken tines

Damaged Rudder Shaft with broken tines

We engaged our friend Rob at RH Precision while we were still in Tonga.  We love Rob!  He has done several stainless projects for us and is just a gem to work with!  He has all of the fun tools and machines for welding stainless and aluminum.  Matt finds the dimensions and all of the measurements to our existing rudder shafts (thanx to the Catana Mailing Group and several other Catana owners who shared their specifications).  

We triple check all of the measurements with our existing rudder shafts (both the damaged one and the one that is still in tact).  And then we double check them again.  Matt specifically orders 6082 aluminum (from High Grade Metals in NZ) which is stronger than our original lighter aluminum.  Rob works his magic and expertly replicates our rudder shafts as per the diagram.

Bigger is Better

Rob then drills the holes. There are 4 holes near the top which is how we connect the post to the boat and 4 holes for the tines.  We decided to go with 16mm tines which are bigger and stronger than our current 14mm tines.

I assumed Rob would be able to do the tines as well, but I was wrong.  We had to get the rods for the tines…hmmm.  Rob sends us to Vulcan Ullrich Aluminium in Whangarei where we are able to purchase a 5m of 16mm rod.  We have them cut it into (8) 280mm pieces and we take the almost 4m of extra rod back to Rob as a gift.

The Final Steps

Rob pounds the 8 pieces into each hole for us and then we take it to Absolute Stainless to tack them in place so they wont move (tack weld).  Yep, this is a process.  It doesn’t take long to tack weld them as we were able to pick them up the next morning.  The next step is to have the rudder shafts anodized.  So, we drive them to Auckland (2.5hrs each way) to Alert Anodising where they will put 25 micron hard black to protect them.  We had wanted marine grade but evidently there was a mix up. Rob assured us it would be fine and that this was still very good.

10 days later we make the drive back to Auckland to pick up our newly anodized rudder posts.  

The shafts look so sexy!  I am not sure why I think they look sexy with the anodizing, but I do!  We laid the new shaft next to the old shaft and what a difference.  The new shafts are about 27cm longer and weigh almost 1 kilo more than the older shafts.  Compare the damaged shaft to the new one on the right photo.

Now we are ready for the blades.  Stay tuned for part II of the Rudder Rebuild.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occured during November 2023.  

The Low Down on Coppercoat Antifouling: Part II

In our last blog post we started the process of preparing our boat for new antifouling.  We typically used paint, but technology has changed and the better choice for protecting your boat’s bottom is coppercoat.  We ran into some problems and the original blog post grew too long so we broke it up into a few posts.  Here is part II.

Coppercoat

We ordered the coppercoat directly from the NZ coppercoat contact.  We ended up ordering 20 one liter kits which contain part A and B and the copper) and an additional (2) one liter cans for us (for any future repairs).  The reason we orderd one liter cans is because the coppercoat has a very specific application process and ordering it in larger quantities like 10L or 20L cans makes it very difficult for the team to apply it fast enough before it sets. You only get about 20-30 minutes to apply while constantly stirring your paint tin.

First the team, and yes, I mean “team” as 5 Norsand guys bring the supplies.  They set up a make shift table to lay everything out.  The 20 kits (each has 3 parts), 15 buckets, 15 paint trays, 15 rollers, 5 small rollers, tons of rags, turps, and gloves.  So much plastic.  The Coppercoat sets so quickly that they cannot reuse the buckets, trays, or rollers for more than a few coats.  Everything moves at warped speed.

The preparations continue as the team (Aaron, Josh, Conor, Ian, Luke) tape off our saildrives, rudder bearings, transducers and other vital parts that can’t be covered in coppercoat and need protection.

The Application

The boat is washed down with ISO to remove all dust particles and then the magic begins.

Our chemist, Josh begins the mixing process.  He is dedicated to mixing each kit and keeping the painter’s trays mixed so the Coppercoat doesn’t set too quickly. Aaron (far left) is the yard manager and is supervising before starting the painting process.

The 5 guys work straight through lunch for over 5 hours applying 5+ coats, evenly, consistently, and professionally along our hulls.  It was exhausting work but they powered through and completed the job!  We were so pleased that we had a little happy hour celebration under the boat.

The first coat (top), the 3rd coat (middle) and the final coat (still wet).

I must be honest, I am not a fan of the color (copper) but I am even less pleased with what the color will look like once it spends 4-6 months in the salt water and oxidizes. And this is the permanent color for the next 10 years.  These are not our boats (obviously), but it will give you an idea of what Coppercoat looks like once it has oxidized in the ocean.

Prop Speed

The coppercoat sets as we are finishing up a few other boat projects.  One of the final projects is preparing the saildrives and props.  We sand them down, apply a barrier coat to the sail drives (the white paint), sand down the props one more time. Then it is time to apply prop speed which helps prevent growth and corrosion on the sail drives and props.  The bright yellow sure clashes with our copper bottom – oh well.

Activating the Coppercoat

It seems so wrong, but this is the process.  The yard comes in a few days before we splash to burnish (sand down) our beautifully painted Coppercoat.   Jamie uses 320 grit sand paper to activate the copper – but it was really hard to watch them burnish the new bottom job.

And that is the Coppercoat process.

Did you miss Part I of “The Low Down on Coppercoat Antifouling?”  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post started in early November and finished around the end of November.