Category Archives: Tuamotus Islands

Including: Tike Hau,, Rangiroa, Manihi

Underwater Adventures in Tahanea

Our adventures continue in Tahanea both on shore and underwater.  If you missed our last blog on Tahanea, click here.

The winds were shifting so we decided to move to one of our favorite anchorages called “7.”  It got its popular name from the reef that forms a “7” which can be seen from google earth (top photo) The lower photo shows the top of the “7” in the foreground.

Matt was able to fly the drone to capture this amazing photo of the reef with Sugar Shack in the lower edge.  Our battery was super low so we could not go higher to show you the entire reef, but you get the general idea from this shot.

Unfortunately for us the winds shifted rather quickly.  We only got to spend one night here before it was time to move to a new anchorage.

The Pass Anchorage

The exciting thing about being at the pass anchorage is snorkeling the pass with the manta rays.  A large group of us went to explore the reef outside the passes and then drifted in the north pass to play with the mantas.

These massive, gentle creatures are super curious and will come up to you if you remain calm and still.  They simply take your breath away as they glide through the water collecting plankton.  Truly majestic beauties.

A rather large spotted ray also came to pay us a visit but stayed pretty far below us.

We had many beautiful sunrises and sunsets.

One evening, we all enjoyed a beach BBQ and watched the sun set as the moon rose.  Nothing like great friends, tasty food, and beauty all around.

Matt broke out the drone for shots of the Tahanea anchorage.  We are super close to shore, even though it does not look like it in the photo.  Remember, we are only in 1.5m of water.  The little black things around Sugar Shack are coral heads which have to be avoided by the boat and our anchor chain.

These photos show the motus near the pass and the passes.  In the top photo you can see the middle pass (at the bottom) and the north pass (top).  The photo was taken at slack tide which is why it is so calm and “serene.”

A few more sunrise photos.

Diving Tahanea Reef

Matt went diving with our friends on Pico (Andreas and Sandra) while our other friends on Sea Rose and I followed them snorkeling.  One of our regulators is leaking so I could not go with Matt.  But we had a fantastic time checking out the underwater reef world between the two passes during slack tide.

Happy girl in Tahanea

Sugar Shack is happy in Tahanea (photo courtesy of Sandra on Pico)

And Matt captured this amazing photo with the sun rising and the moon setting.  The moon can be seen just off our bow and to the left of the monohulls.

NW Anchorage

Matt and I wanted to explore a new anchorage so we headed to the NW side of the atoll.  It is “unexplored” territory as there is nothing in the compendium, nothing on the charts and no tracks.  It is about 7.5nm away from the pass anchorage.  We encountered no problems even though we left at low tide (not smart for a new path).

The anchorage was littered with coral heads so we floated our chain in the largest sandy spot.  Super pretty, untouched motu with a bijillion palm trees.

We explored around the large motu which was difficult to walk on as it was covered in large rock and corals.  There were no sandy parts or small pebbly parts.  But we did find a little camp site created by a local for his copra work. 

Some people have a shoe fetish and others (who don’t wear shoes) have a different kind of fetish…

And this is not all of them

And this is not all of them

Check out this site for more underwater adventures in Tahanea.

Events from this blog post occurred during the end of May, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

Tahanea

Tremendous Tahanea

We were ready to move on after spending a quiet and beautiful week at Amanu.  Our friends on Marie Alice, Richard and Natalie, wanted to follow us out of the pass as they were still lacking navigation.  Their passage took them to Fakarava whereas ours will take us to Tahanea.

We pulled the hook up at 0930 and took our time getting to the pass which was 4.58nm across the lagoon.  Slack tide was estimated to be at 1100.  We unfurled the jib and had a leisurely sail at 3-3.5 kts.

The pass was supposed to be slack but in reality, there was an outgoing current (again).  Lucky for us we were going out.  We experienced 5kts of outgoing current where our boat speed was 5kts but the SOG (speed over ground) was 10kts.  Marie Alice and Sugar Shack both made it out safely.

Passage to Tahanea

The forecast had light winds 12-15kts from the SE.  We decided to set the parasail.  This is a fairly “new to us” sail as we bought it off another boat in the Marquesas about 1.5 years ago.  We don’t get many opportunities to fly it, but when we do it is a true joy.  This sail gives us a little more wiggle room with shifting wind directions and speeds. 

We flew the parasail all night and into the next day.  Around mid-morning, a storm started brewing so we dropped her and unfurled the jib.  The “weather” did not last so we put the parasail back up. 

The clouds are funny to me.  During the day they are playful, light, and fluffy.  But at night, they become dark, foreboding, and ominous.  Lucky for us it was all good.  We even had some truly spectacular sunsets.

Overall, it was a really wonderful passage.  We had gentle winds, less than predicted.  The following seas were large at times, but they were in long intervals and very gentle.  We only had one or two small storms but there was no lightening or thunder and very little rain.

Entering the Tahanea pass was a breeze.  We entered at dawn and had 1-1.5 kts of incoming current.  No problems.  We quickly motored across the lagoon to the south end where we met our friends from Gambier, Bella Donna (Kate & Andrew their girls Anna and Florence), Sling shot (Jen and Gavin and their kids Nathan and Julia), and Due South (Wendy & Peryn and their 4 boys). 

Trip Details

  • Miles to Destination:      230nm
  • Total Miles Sailed:            231nm
  • Max Speed:                        10kts (out of the pass)
  • Average Speed:                5.3kts
  • Total Passage Time:        1 day 21 hours (includes crossing Amanu lagoon)

Tahanea SE Anchorage

There are several boats in the south anchorage when we arrived.  We know a few of them (Slingshot, Bella Donna, Due South) and have heard of a few others (Macushla).  They are hanging out here because it is perfect for kite boarding and they are all huge kite boarders.  Many of the boats have kids and it is amazing to see these young people do extraordinary kite tricks.  This is Nathan, he is 11 years old and is fearless!

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

A few more shots of Nathan with their boats in the background.

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

How many kits can you count in these photos?  Answer at bottom of post.

Matt and I anchor about 1.5nm away from the other boats where we have anchored before.  It is in front of Nico’s place.  Nico lives on another atoll called Faaite but comes here to process copra (coconuts) several months a year.  He has a simple, but comfortable home.  He only speaks French but is incredibly welcoming, friendly, and generous.  We asked him where we could find some lobsters and if he would take us hunting. He said yes, yes, but here are some you can have now.  He would not take any money.  So, we provided him with loads of fishing stuff and sweet treats.

Motu Exploration

We took this opportunity to explore lots of the motus on the southwest end of this atoll.  We took sweetie over 4nm away from the boat to the western motus. The bottom right anchor is where Sugar Shack is located and we went to where the red arrow is.  These motus were very different than the ones by the big boat. The windward side of the motu faced the Pacific.  However, there was a lagoon and a reef between the breaking waves and the motu which meant there was sand on the windward side as opposed to giant coral rocks.  Complete surprise.  Bottom left photo shows typical windward side and bottom right shows sandy, pebbly beach.

Another surprise was that we found three intact conch shells.  They had lots of corrosion on them so we did not keep them, but they were super pretty.

We walked across the water ways in between several motus.  It is absolutely beautiful.  Each direction you turn you see nothing but beauty.  Tahanea just takes your breath away.

To be Continued…

We had so much fun in Tahanea that you have to wait for our next blog release to finish the adventure.  Stay tuned as we snorkel with manta rays, swim with sharks, learn to foil, and enjoy more of the kiters.

Check out our previous posts on Tahanea such as this one.

There are 4 kites only because I had to cut two of them off to fit the photo.

Events from this blog post occurred during the second week May, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.  Tahanea on NoForeignLand.com.

Amanu's Beautiful Waters

Astonishing Amanu

 The sun rose bright and early in Amanu and we both felt like spring chickens after our good night’s sleep!  One: it was a solid sleep with no night shifts.  Two: it was flat and calm with no rocking and rolling.  Three: it was quiet with no engines or generator.  Pure bliss.

We end up spending 5 days on the south east corner of Amanu.  We had wanted to explore other anchorages but the weather was not cooperating.  So, instead we take Sweetie out and explore lots of different motus.

Tuamotus Islands are called Atolls

If you remember, the Tuamotus are flat motus that surround the lagoon. In between each motu is a water flow that can be small like a babbling brook or large like a full river.  Usually you can cross the water passages to get to another motu.

Here is a water passage.  One photo is looking toward the lagoon (top) and the other is looking toward the Pacific (bottom).

Amanu Pass between motus

Amanu Pass between motus

Three quarters of the motu are covered in different size rocks and dead coral with trees or bushes in the middle.  Only a small portion of the motu facing the lagoon is covered in small coral and sand.

Amanu

Amanu

Lots of Sea Critters and Crabs

I love that bottom left photo with Sweetie in the foreground and Sugar Shack in the background.  The water colors are simply divine in Amanu.

Each motu has a ton of crabs and sea life.  One particular motu had a bevy of crabs in many shapes and sizes.  I love the one in the middle with his extra-large red claw!  In the upper right corner, the two green crabs were trying to hide from us.

We came across a cool house on a really small and remote motu. We were so surprised to see this “real house” with water collection system, sliding glass doors, windows, and curtains because this motu is so remote.  Usually there are just “pop ups” made of metal sheets or plywood out on the motus. 

More Abandoned FADs

We ran across a lot of abandoned FADs and as a result the sea side looks awful.  Unfortunately, we did not have the energy to try to disassemble all of them.  These two fads had become so embedded in the rock that removal was difficult.

Because I sowed the ugly FADs on the beach, I had to post this beautiful photo of Amanu’s water.  Can you see my shadow?

Can you see my shadow?

Can you see my shadow?

Events from this blog post occurred during the second week May, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.