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Sugar Shack entering lock 1

Transiting the Panama Canal on Sugar Shack Part I

So, what does it take to cross the Panama Canal?

First, start with planning – interview and hire an agent, fill out a bunch of paperwork, request a Panama Canal Ship ID #, head to Shelter Bay, inspect and admeasure the boat, and get your transit date – 6 March.

Then figure out which friends can come help with the line handling. You need 4 line handlers on every boat.  There are a lot of people in Shelter Bay marina who offer to be your line handlers, but this is a once in a lifetime opportunity so we opened it up to our friends. Obviously, it’s just more fun to experience this adventure with people you love.

Our agent, Eric Galvez met us on the dock within an hour of our arrival at Shelter Bay and gave us the run down before the Panama Canal inspector came on board.  The next day we were measured and inspected and received our Ship ID# and transit date.

Successful inspection and ad measure.

Successful inspection and ad measure.

Fast forward three weeks later…

After we arrived at Shelter Bay for the second time, we received our four “rented” one inch in diameter, stretchy, non high-tech 125′ lines and 8 fenders from our agent.  You are required to “rent” these lines and fenders despite what you already have on the boat.

We received our transit time of 0500 which was a bit of a surprise as we had hoped to get the 1600 time slot.  Oh well, we’re flexible.  Since our transit time was a lot earlier than planned, we had to leave the marina a day early.  We pulled away from the slip around 1630 on 5 March and headed over to the Flats Anchorage.  Not sure why they call it the “flats” as the anchorage is not flat, it is very, very rolly.

Matt, Wayne, Heather, Michael and I enjoyed a nice dinner, a little rum and went to bed around 2000 so we would be well rested.  Our 0430 wake-up call came fast, but we were excited to get our day started.   The pilot boat showed up and Francisco our advisor jumped aboard.

IMAGE: Top shows pilot boat rafting up to us to drop off pilot; Middle shows Michael greeting Francisco; Bottom shows Heather offering a breakfast snack to our pilot.

Our pilot, Francisco arrives on board.

Our pilot, Francisco arrives on board.

Anticipating the adventure.

Heather, Michael and I enjoying the early morning.

Heather, Michael and I enjoying the early morning.

Sugar Shack passed under the new bridge being built.  The sunrise coupled with the lights make this a stunning photo.

New bridge under construction at channel entrance.

New bridge under construction at channel entrance.

Uno Mas” caught up to us so we could raft up to them for the first three locks.

IMAGE” Top is “Uno Mas” approaching Sugar Shack w/ Skip, Tracy and Stacy at the bow, Angie at adjusting the fender, Mark at the helm and on our boat Francisco assisting Matt with raft up; Middle: “Uno Mas” crew, Right shows how the blue lines are tied through two cleats, and bottom shows the 2-3′ loop that we had to make.

Rafting to Uno Mas

Rafting to Uno Mas

As we approached the first chamber, we steered toward starboard (the right side of the chamber) so that “Una Mas” could pick up their first lines.  Panama line handlers toss two monkey fists (balls loaded with a lead shot) toward the boat.  Then the line handlers on “Una Mas” take that monkey fist, put it through the loop in the rented blue line (2-3’ loops were pre-made when the rented blue lines were attached to the boat).  Once, the monkey fist goes through the loop, it is then tied back to itself with another bowline knot.

Once the bow and stern lines are attached to the starboard side, our two boats moved toward the port side (mainland) where Sugar Shack catches its monkey fists and repeats the process for our bow and stern lines.  So, now Sugar Shack has a blue line (up to 2 Panama line handlers) on the port bow and stern and “Una Mas” has a blue line (up to 2 Panama line handlers) on the starboard bow and stern.

From here, the Panama line handlers slowly walk our two nested boats into the first lock where we will be center chambered.  Once in place, the Panama line handlers pull the monkey fist lines, which are attached to our blue lines.  The blue lines are then secured to giant cleats at the top of the canal.

Our two boats were behind a power boat called “Mi Panga” which was behind a large tanker.  It looks like these are our transit partners through all 6 locks.

IMAGE: Top entering 1st lock with “Mi Panga” in place behind the orange tanker.  Next image are our two Panama Line handlers waiting to toss the monkey fists to us.  3rd and 4th images are us being walked into place inside the lock.

Line handlers at work in first three locks.

Line handlers at work in first three locks.

IMAGE: Top: “Sugar Shack” and “Uno Mas” are center chambered behind “Mi Panga” and a giant cargo ship “SC Taurus” from Hong Kong.  The line in Wayne’s hand leads to the Panama line handler at the top of the wall.  Bottom shows Michael holding the blue line being walked by another Panama line handler at the top of the same wall.

Panama line handlers walking our nested boats to center chamber.

Panama line handlers walking our nested boats to center chamber.

As the water fills the chamber, Michael and Wayne on Sugar Shack and 2 teams on “Una Mas” Angie & Tracy and Stacy and Gene, constantly take up slack in the lines to ensure the boats are secured in the center of the chamber.  The water started at 45 and rose to 72 in about 10 minutes.

With all parties secured, the water starts rushing in at 3 million gallons per minute.  They use over 52 million gallons of water to bring boats through all six locks.  The boats will rise 3 feet per minute in the first three locks.   On the side of the lock, they have measuring indicators to watch as the water rises.  The image shows two empty locks (1 and 2), bottom image shows partially filled lock and bottom right shows full lock.

Water level indicators on canal wall.

Water level indicators on canal wall.

After we reached the top, the Panama line handlers toss the big blue lines down to the boats, while holding on to the thin monkey fist line.  They then walk the boats down to the second lock where we repeat the process.  Pull lines up, cleat, take up slack, close gates, fill chamber, move forward, lock 3.

Sugar Shack at the top of the first lock, waiting to be walked to 2nd lock.

Sugar Shack at the top of the first lock, waiting to be walked to 2nd lock.

Osvaldo Traversaro captured a great photo of Sugar Shack and “Uno Mas” going through the locks and posted it on Marine Traffic.

Sugar Shack and Uno Mas going through the locks. Photo courtesy of Osvaldo Traversaro

Sugar Shack and Uno Mas going through the locks. Photo courtesy of Osvaldo Traversaro

All the blue fenders are ours (we have 5 large A4 (round balls) and 6 F4 (long tubes).  The white ones are rented from our agent and are a bit puny, but we’ll take what we can get.  Wayne is on our port bow, Fernando (red shirt) is by the mast, Heather is just past the dagger board, Matt is by the solar panels, Michael is at the port stern, and I am not pictured (at the starboard helm)

These are views from the top of the 2nd and 3rd locks looking back down the canal (where we just came from).

View of the first three locks after being raised to Lake Gatun level.

View of the first three locks after being raised to Lake Gatun level.

When it was all said and done, we moved up 83’ in elevation before entering Lake Gatun.  This was the second time Sugar Shack has been in fresh water.  The first time was Rio Chagres and I’d call that brackish water to be honest.

We untied “Una Mas” and the two of us started our 20-mile motor to the other side of the lake.  It was really calm with no wind, but there were twists and turns as you follow the red markers across the lake.  We all took turns at the helm as we motored.

Motoring across Lake Gatun.

Motoring across Lake Gatun.

Matt finally rested for a few minutes after a stressful morning.

Matt resting a bit in between locks.

Matt resting a bit in between locks.

Six miles before the last locks, at Gamboa, we were instructed to pick up a HUGE mooring.  A large cargo ship was due to pass us and they needed us out of the way.  Before the 325’ cargo ship carrying thousands of containers passed us, “Una Mas” rafted up to Sugar Shack on our mooring.

Gamboa mooring for a lunch stop.

Gamboa mooring for a lunch stop.

Osvaldo Traversaro captured us at the Gamboa mooring and posted it on Marine Traffic for us.  Super cool of him, wish I could thank him.

Sugar Shack at Gamboa mooring.

Sugar Shack at Gamboa mooring.

To be continued – please stay tuned for Transiting the Panama Canal on Sugar Shack Part II.  Coming Soon.

Check out the time lapse video Matt put together at youtube.com/svSugarShack.

Sugar Shack Panama Canal Transit Crew:

  • Matt
  • Christine
  • Wayne
  • Heather
  • Michael
  • Francisco (adviser/pilot)

Uno Mas Panama Canal Transit Crew

  • Mark
  • Angie
  • Stacy
  • Gene
  • Skip
  • Tracy
  • Adviser and Trainee

Stacy captured these stunning shots of Sugar Shack as we were heading to the first lock just at sunrise. So pretty, thank you Stacy!

Sugar Shack on the move towards the first lock.

Sugar Shack on the move towards the first lock.

Our good friend Josh, captured these live web cam shots during our Panama Canal transit (thank you Josh!)  First image is us entering the first locks (early), 2nd image is us leaving first locks (see far left side); third image we are entering into the 5th lock and the bottom image is Matt on our Bimini waiving.

Web cam shots of us transiting the Panama Canal

Web cam shots of us transiting the Panama Canal

Most compelling evidence that we are all having a great time:  Matt has his arms spread wide on the starboard bow (does anyone know that song?), and Heather and Michael enjoying some lovin.  Wayne keeping a watchful eye out.

Sugar Shack crew enjoying the transit.

Sugar Shack crew enjoying the transit.

Surprisingly, the locks are pretty long and each boat has to be hand walked into place.

Sugar Shack entering lock 1

Sugar Shack entering lock 1

The Gap, No Name Bar, a Drunken Monkey, and a Man Named Ernie in the Bocas

Red Frog Marina Anchorage at Bastimento was a nice “pit stop” but it was time to move on.  We have “the gap” to go through, a bar with “No Name” to find, a monkey to see, and a man named “Ernie to meet.  The Bocas are full of hidden treasures and all of these needed to be discovered.  Matt woke up early and captured this beautiful sunrise just before we left.

Sunrise on Sugar Shack

Sunrise on Sugar Shack

We met a fellow Texan named Bob who is a single-handler on “Sea Otter.”  He offered to guide us through “the gap” which is a narrow and sometimes very shallow passage from Bastimentos to Laguna Parras (or Dolphin Bay).  This area is not charted very well and you encounter many reefs and shallow spots, so must navigate carefully here.  This photo is courtesy of Eric Bauhaus’s book “The Panama Cruising Guide.”  The Bocas have a lot of mangroves and shallow waters so care has to be taken when moving the boat.

The Gap in the Bocas

The Gap in the Bocas

Sea Otter” has a similar draft to Sugar Shack (1 meter) and Bob had a track from a previous trip through “the gap” so it made perfect sense to follow him.  We both pulled up anchor and began our slow journey, about 3-4 knots under motor.  Twenty minutes into our journey we came across a catamaran from California named “Halcyon” whom we had met in Bocas Town.  Sandy and Brit on “Halcyon” knew Bob on “Sea Otter” as well and asked to join our caravan.  Sweet, a floating train.

As I took the helm, Matt was checking our 3 charts and monitoring the VHF as we chatted with our travel companions.  It was beautiful and peaceful squeezing between the mangroves along this path.  However, it was very uneasy and a little frightening at times, but exciting none the less.  All went well, and we arrived safely.  Total distance was 10.2 miles at an average speed of 4.2.

Image below: upper left shows “Sea Otter” in front of us.  Upper right shows “Halycon” behind us, and lower shows me in deep concentration.

Motoring through the Gap with a caravan.

Motoring through the Gap with a caravan.

Not long after we anchored, our friends on “Wandering Rose” joined us at our peaceful little mangrove inlet.  Although they came in at a different entrance, they were still able to find us.

Porras Lagoon, aka Dolphin Bay

Porras Lagoon, aka Dolphin Bay

Matt and I decided to go exploring in “Sweetie.”  We headed for the small village of Boca Torritos which is located on Isla Christobal.  This town is nestled at the water’s edge in between beautiful trees. Even though there is not much to the town the residents are really friendly!  Closer in we spied what appeared to be a bar, but it was closed.  A really nice woman named “Erica” came out and told us that the owners were fishing but she could serve us beer.

Erica is the owner’s sister-in-law and is building a beautiful house next door to the bar, aptly named “No Name Bar”.  She is from Romania, lived in Canada for 16 years, and is now married to a Panamanian.  Yep, she speaks multiple languages!   Over the course of a few beers she gave us the skinny of where to go on what days to get the most of our experience in this area.

Top image is “No Name Bar” and bottom two are the images of Bocas Torritos.

Bocas Torrito village.

Bocas Torrito village.

The next day was Monday Market Day at a place called “The Drunken Monkey.”  It is “the” place to be at 10:00 on Monday mornings in the Bocas.  We picked up Dave and Mary from “Wandering Rose” and drove “Sweetie” through the mangroves to Isla Cristobal.  Lindsey, the bartender greeted us with a Drunken Monkey sippie cup ($5) which gave you continual refills for $3 of any drink of your choice.

Before we got too far down the monkey path, we headed behind the bar to the market pavilion.  Here, 6 vendors were selling fresh fruits and veggies, fresh meats (seasoned pork chops, ham, salami, bacon), breads, jams, chocolate, and shirts.  We loaded up, stored our goods in the freezer and made our way back to the bar.

Monday Market Days at Drunken Monkey

Monday Market Days at Drunken Monkey

It was a wonderful mix of locals, cruisers, and expats.  The booze were flowing, the conversations were lively, and fun was had by all!

Image: Dave and Matt at top, Jessie (owner), me and Mary.

Drunken Monkey with Jessie in lower left corner.

Drunken Monkey with Jessie in lower left corner.

Good times at the Drunken Monkey

Good times at the Drunken Monkey

The next day was a bit “hard” but we actually managed to be productive and finished up our new gas can cover for “Sweetie.”

This is a lovely anchorage and so very peaceful.  But, we decided to leave “dolphin bay” and head to the next bay called Laguna Palos or the “dark lands”.  A side note, we never saw any dolphins in dolphin bay even though there is a pod of 30 living here, so sad.

Laguna Palos is a short distance away so we motored through the cut between the mainland and Isla Cristoball.  As you motor through the cut, you pass an island with a set of trees that are all the same height.  Which is so unusual to see.  Evidently a large banana company (not Dole) planted all of these trees so that they could use them to make banana crates.  Then the banana market crashed so they had no more use for the trees.

Banana Tree canopy island.

Banana Tree canopy island.

We dropped anchor in the middle of the bay which was surrounded by mangroves on 3 sides and a pretty large mountain on the 4th side.  It is incredibly serene and yet delightful.

Our friends had told us that “Ernie” serves the most amazing fried chicken on Wednesday’s at 1500 so we hopped in Sweetie to find “Los Amigos.”  Ernie used to be a chef at the Hyatt in America and really knows his stuff!  The chicken was incredibly juicy and tender and literally made your mouth water.  So glad we stopped by!

Ernie giving me some lovin.

Ernie giving me some lovin.

The howler monkeys sing to you almost as if they are inviting you to shore.  They seem to be all over the Bocas, but we have yet to actually see one.  You only know they are there because you can hear them.  The next day we decided to anchor off of Tranquillo Place, which is a small island owned by our new friends Judy and Rick.  They had invited us over for happy hour along with Jessie and CJ from the “Drunken Monkey.”  Always fun making new friends!  Judy showed us around her beautiful tropical paradise, introduced us to her two birds, and hosted an awesome happy hour!

Tranquillo Place located near Crawl Cay

Tranquillo Place located near Crawl Cay

Rick and Judy own 2 boats called Chasing Sunsets (a trawler and a monohull).  They have a friend who they rent dock space to for this boat “Navigator.”

Tranquillo Place owned by Rick and Judy

Tranquillo Place owned by Rick and Judy

The next day we went to Bocas Town to meet Wayne.  We also had to provision, get fuel, and say “chow” to “Wandering Rose.

New Places in the Bocas:

  • The Gap
  • Palos Lagoon
  • Porras Lagoon
  • Los Amigos “Ernie’s
  • Drunken Monkey
  • Tranquillo Place
Sugar Shack in Bocas del Toro

Bocas del Toro: The Bastimentos Island

The water in the Bocas are clear, but green.  Not the beautiful blue or turquoise we found in the San Blas Islands.  There also was an unpleasant odor where we were anchored near Bocas Town so we decided to find a new place to drop the hook.  Our friends on “Wandering Rose” headed over to Bastimentos earlier so that is where we decided to go as well.

We stowed all of our tools that were out for various projects, rolled up the rain shades (as it has been raining a lot) and prepped the boat for a short 4-mile motor.  Even though it is not very far to this new island, it is along a path riddled with reefs and mangroves.  We had all of our charts up (GPS, Navionics, and Bauhaus) and made our way safely to a new, more secluded anchorage.

Isla Bastimentos is one of the larger islands in the archipelago and home to the sleepy town of Old Bank, the Salt Creek indigenous community, and the Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park. It is also home to the Red Frog Beach Resort and Marina.  It is said that this island has some of the most stunning beaches of all the Bocas islands.  But they are all on the windward side facing the sea. Which makes for great surfing, but bad swimming.

Getting to the Red Frog Beach Resort and Marina was a short dinghy ride through a mangrove forest that makes you feel a bit like Indiana Jones discovering a hidden village.  We left late in the afternoon and had only planned on staying ashore for a few hours.  Upon arrival, there is a nice little dinghy dock and a resort worker asking for $5 per person to enter their establishment.  What, I have to pay money to spend money at your resort?  Well, ok, since we get wrist bands and can use them over the course of several days.

Red Frog Marina

Red Frog Marina

It is a rather large resort with several beaches, a marina, zip line, small market, and many places to eat.

Red Frog Marina and Resort.

Red Frog Marina and Resort.

Along the way they had these beautiful trees with roots that resembled mangrove roots.  Anyone know the type of tree this is?

Beautiful tree - do you know what it is?

Beautiful tree – do you know what it is?

It was a short 15-minute walk to The Point Beach Restaurant and look out point. The Point Restaurant was really nice and elevated to give you a sweeping view of the beach and ocean.  They served tasty island drinks and food, but it was a bit overpriced (beer was $2.50).

Photo on left was this pretty little palm tree growing out of the rocks.  Photo on right is The Point restaurant and photo below are the crashing waves on the beach.

The Point Beach at Red Frog

The Point Beach at Red Frog

Evidently, they are experiencing harsher weather conditions than normal as the waves were huge.

We worked on a few more projects as the rain stole our days ashore away. Our rain shades were working great but there are two small corners that are exposed.  These two open bimini corners allow the rain to come in and it makes our cockpit all wet.  It was challenging to create a pattern, but Matt was relentless.  We tried and tried and nothing seemed to work so we will have to keep at this project.

The dinghy fuel tank cover was another project Matt made early in his sewing career.  It was fine, but we wanted to add pockets and fix a few things, so we remade it in red.

Fuel Tank Creating a Pattern

Fuel Tank Creating a Pattern

We made two large pockets in the front and back that will fit two sippy cups each.  The flap on the top is where we put gasoline into the tank and the side has slight openings for the straps that lock the tank to the dinghy (see white cable at bottom of image).  Yep, we have to lock the fuel tank to the dinghy to prevent it from walking away.  Completed and on the fuel tank.

Dinghy Fuel Tank Cover

Dinghy Fuel Tank Cover

The wind instruments have been a major pain in our A$$!  We replaced the wind indicator at the top of the mast, but they still are not working properly.  Sometimes they show the wind direction, but no speed, while others they show the speed and no direction.

Matt first went up our 70′ mast to see if the wind instrument was working.  Which did not seem to be the case.  He is working on the windex which is in front of the mast just below the two wind indicators which are a top the mast.

Matt up the top of our 70' mast.

Matt up the top of our 70′ mast.

Before we spend $500 for one instrument (we will need 2), Matt wanted to see if switching them would work.  Nope!  Looks like we will order one replacement to see if it works and if it does, we will order another and replace the port side instrument.

Wind instrument repair?

Wind instrument repair?

PROJECTS WORKED IN BASTIMENTOS:

  • Sewed new dinghy fuel tank cover
  • Worked on wind instruments
    • This is a work in progress, need new instruments which Wayne is bringing
Sugar Shack in Bocas del Toro

Sugar Shack in Bocas del Toro