Tag Archives: kuna

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

Texas Friends in the House: Part III

We enjoyed a lazy day on the boat and in the water in the Western Holandes and made a plan to head to Carti the next day.  Matt and I had been here before, but we wanted to show our friends the true Kuna experience.

It was a perfect downwind sail with light winds on a sunny day.  Josh and Sara helped us hoist the small spinnaker, we shut the engines off ,and enjoyed the motion of the ocean.

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

We arrived to Carti with no incident, but had a devil of a time finding a good anchoring spot.  This anchorage has really deep areas and a few shallow parts so boats congregate around the shallow parts.  We tried 8 or 9 times and could not get it to stick properly.  It was frustrating for everyone.  Finally, Davey stuck and we had a beer!  Our friends from “Itchy Foot” met us here and we all headed to shore.

We had 2 overly stuffed bags of trash and another bag of cans that we desperately wanted off the boat.  We dropped our trash at the little market that has a panga pick up and drop off on the main land.   Once of the few places you can bring your trash as Kuna have a tendency to drop it directly in the ocean.

We wanted to visit the Kuna museum and had heard that the English-speaking guide would be there.  A nice local showed us how to get to the museum as it is a hard to find.  Once we got there, we discovered that the one English-speaking guide was off island getting drunk during a multi-day celebration.  Shoot.  We decided to pay $3 each to go inside just to see what they had.

It was a really small space, about 20×20 filled floor to ceiling with artifacts, clothing, hieroglyphics, and some brief explanations.

Images: Top: Museum sign, ulu or dugout.  Second Row: hut structure, worship piece.  Bottom row: information on how they bury their dead (in hammocks), pottery, and classic men’s top.

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Ancient Hieroglyphics, animal skulls, pottery where they ferment liquor for celebrations, worship idols, clothing and mola fabric.Kuna Museum on Sugdup

Kuna Museum on SugdupThe little museum was really, really hot so we were all in need of a cold beverage.  Matt hunted down a local bar, as only he can sniff those out.  On the way, we stopped at a panderia and bought bread and a few gifts for Josh and Sara’s kids.

The beer was cold and cheap and the bar was on the water.  Good friends, cold beer, and beautiful scenery.  Perfect setting to enjoy our libations.

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

On the way back to the boat, we stopped at the market to get some fresh fruits and veggies.  They were pretty well stocked, but not as good as the first time we stopped by the week before.  I think Josh and Sara were grossed out by the freezer that had freshly plucked chickens lying about – not in packaging, just hanging out featherless in a clump.  We did not pick any up.

Back on the boat, we enjoyed another fabulous dinner concocted by Matt and a rum tasting followed.  Matt is famous for inflicting his rum tasting on friends, but Josh and Sara mastered the challenge. It’s always sad to say goodbye, but we know they will be back.

See Texas Friends In the House:

Leaving in my private panga

America or Bust

It’s that time of year again where I head back to America to visit with family and friends and see my doctors.  This trip will be an extrordinary one as I will be pre-celebrating my 50th birthday across America!  As many of you know, I like to have a birthday month!

I could not sleep and was awake with the sunrise. To my utter delight it was magnificent.

Sunrise on Sugar Shack

Sunrise on Sugar Shack

Traveling to and from the San Blas islands requires a bit of work as they are not easy to get to.  I worked with Judy Lam at Lam Tours who helped me with all the arrangements.  She is incredibly thorough, courteous, and customer centric!

The panga was supposed to pick me up at 0730 from Banedup in the East Lemons, but since we had moved the boat to Carti, the pick up was pushed to 0830.  So, at 0725, we thought we had plenty of time to eat breakfast and finish my packing. But, no.  At 0730, a panga circled about and asked if I was ready.  Eek gads, an hour early?  Nope, I asked them to give me 30 minutes and they agreed to come back.  We ate quickly, shoved last-minute items into my back pack and finished getting ready.  I got the panga all to myself.

In my private panga on the way to America.

In my private panga on the way to America.

After exploring the Carti islands, we had thought that the “terminal” where the panga drops you off and where you pick up your 4×4 was on the mainland.  Incorrect!  My panga driver, expertly wove us through the beautiful Rio de Carti Grande.

My friendly panga driver

My friendly panga driver

The water was brown, but all of the trees and brush were a vibrant green.  It was a lovely trip down a quiet river.

Traveling up Rio Carti Grande in the panga

Traveling up Rio Carti Grande in the panga

Within 15 minutes we arrived to Port Bosukun where we met our 4×4 driver.  My original panga ride would have taken 45-65 minutes from Banedup, so having Sugar Shack in Carti saved me from a much longer, bumpy, wet panga ride. Cost from Carti $5 (from Banedup).

Arriving at Port Bosuken in the panga to await my 4x4

Arriving at Port Bosuken in the panga to await my 4×4

There were loads of people waiting here, which was surprising.  Where did they all come from.

Terminal at Port Bosuken

Terminal at Port Bosuken

Since my panga driver was early, I had to wait over an hour for my 4×4 driver.  I milled around, spoke to a few people and tried to avoid being eaten alive by the no-seeums.  After about 45 minutes, my panga driver came over to me and pointed out my 4×4 driver.  Six passengers loaded their gear in the back and we were on our way.  The ride is 2.5-3 hours.

The 4×4 turned out to be a Landrover with a transmission problem.  Our driver, Angel did his best up and over the hills and through the windy roads, but it was a struggle at times.

Six passengers in the 4x4 ride to Panama City

Six passengers in the 4×4 ride to Panama City

Our 4x4 Landrover chariot

Our 4×4 Landrover chariot

Thank goodness, I sat in front, otherwise I probably would have been car sick.  We made it to the airport in one piece after almost 3 hours.  Cost: $30.

This is the last trip where I can enjoy my platinum status, so I took great pleasure in skipping the huge line and walking up to the short priority lane.  The amazingly sweet AA agent was able to book me on an earlier flight out of Panama and into Miami.  Instead of having to wait 4 hours at the airport with no Admirals club and no wifi, he got me onto a flight that left in 2 hours.  In addition, he also got me on an earlier flight to American so I now arrive at 2300 instead of 0100.  Lucky me.  America here I come.

I walked the entire airport and poked me head in several stores.  I did not buy anything as 1) I’m on a budget since we are not working; and 2) I don’t have a credit card since I lost my wallet in Columbia.  But it is always fun to window shop.

My chariot from Panama City to Miami

My chariot from Panama City to Miami

The flight to America (LA) was equally uneventful, always a good thing.  I had hoped to sleep, but was pleasantly surprised to see entertainment systems at each seat.  Instead of getting a much-needed rest, I watched 3 movies from MIA to LAX!  Sweet.  One of my favorite past times and I had a lot of movies to catch up on.

Landed in LA around 2300 and was picked up by my sweet brother in law and whisked back to his house for a good long rest.