Tag Archives: living on a boat

A Hairy Chain and a Hot Hike

Spanish Waters is a relatively big bay with four distinct anchorages and 5 marinas.  Despite the large sailing community in this area, both permanent and transient boats, there is not sufficient water flow within the anchorage which causes significant growth on your bridle and anchor chain.  We had installed a 100 meters of brand new stainless steel chain while moored in Bonaire.  Within a few weeks at our Curacao anchorage we had significant growth.  What does “significant” mean?

Let’s rewind for a minute.  You might recall, we had a bit of a challenging time finding a good place to set the hook when we first arrived.  After several attempts we ended up about 100 meters into one of the many channels but since the winds were blowing 25 kn we decided to stay where we were.  Then we had to let out another 10 meters of chain because another boat anchored too close to our bow so we were even further in the channel. It was not “the main” channel, but a channel none the less.  When we let our chain out another 10 meters we had to pull up the chain to remove the bridle in order to let more chain out and that is when we saw just how bad the growth was.  You could not even see the stainless it was so long and thick. I would have taken a photo, but we were in the midst of re-anchoring and I just couldn’t get to my camera. Matt tried to clean the top part as best he could before we dropped it again.

Fast forward, 6 days later, we finally had a low wind day (blowing 15 kn) and a spot opened up in front of us so we decided to to move the boat.  Which meant we had to pull up all of the chain.  Much to our surprise, it was not as bad as we thought.  The chain that was dangling in the water along with our bridle were of course the worse because the remaining 55 meters rubbed against the sea floor keeping the growth down to a minimum.

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

After 6 days, the belly (or kellet) of the chain that hangs in the water already is growing hair.

6 days of growth.

6 days of growth.

Our bridal has been submerged for 3 weeks and check out the long locks on it – can you even see the stainless hook we use?

For our landlubbers, a bridle is used to limit the movement of the boat at anchor.  One line is tied to the starboard bow, another line is tied to the port bow and they are connected by dyneema (a really uber strong line) and stainless steel connectors.  The image below are the two lines and the stainless steel connection point that is hooked on to the anchor chain to limit movement.  Here is an interesting blog with images for anchoring Best Practices for Anchoring.

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where's the stainless?

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where’s the stainless?

Matt also had to pull up our 2nd fortress anchor that we put out for the storm.  It took him awhile as the anchor had a lot of load on it for several days and he had to pull it up by hand, in strong winds and current.

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Now we are safely anchored inside the anchorage (well technically we are right on the corner), but inside is better than outside.  As soon as we moved a monohull came in and took our old spot – in the channel.

As we look out our boat, just off the starboard side, there is a mountain called Kabrietenberg (or mountain of the goats).  The entire trip is about 5.4 km and the highest peak is 78 meters high – should take a few hours.  We were told that there are a few caves toward the top and a really cool Indian statue next to one of the openings.  So, Matt and I decided to go exploring.  We took the dinghy over to the dock and began our walk.

We walked past Pop’s Place and Fort Beekenburg (which we had already visited on a previous adventure) and the Quarantine House.  In 1874 the area of ​​Caracas Bay was designated as a quarantine station for ships of infectious disease on board. The garrison buildings near the fort were set up as a hospital for sick seamen.  South, on the corner of the bay, in 1883 the observation device for healthy sailors built, the Quarantine Building which is where the sailors had to stay until it was determined that they were not infected. There is a legend that this building is haunted, but if you are interested it is for sell for a mere 270,000 euro.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House interior.

Quarantine House interior.

We left the quarantine house and rounded  the corner to Tug Boat Beach.  We were so excited to visit this little beach which was named after the tug boat that was accidentally sunk years ago.  A new beach bar was recently built in June by using random parts and pieces around the island.  Unfortunately, we did not bring our snorkel gear and the bar was closed so we will have to come back another time.

Tug Boat Beach.

Tug Boat Beach.

After we left Tug Boat beach we headed up Kabrietenberg mountain with the hopes of finding the caves and our Indian.  It was a relatively easy hike with a small dirt path and lots of cactus to duck, dive, twist and jump over.  We ventured off several smaller trails, came across some beautiful scenic stops with views of Santa Barbara Beach and marina, Spanish Waters, and the ocean.  We found several caves, but no Indian.  Hmph….we must be in the wrong spot or did we miss him?

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Small cave we walked around.

Small cave we walked around.

We decided it would be best if we just kept moving forward instead of circling back as we had already circled most of the mountain.  Not sure we were still on a “path” but we found a walking area by the mangroves and ended up back by the main road.

Our little Indian will have to wait for us, until, we go exploring again.

A New Mate, Marina and Canteen.

A few days after arriving in Spanish Waters, we visited the fuel station at the Curacao Yacht Club.  As we were leaving, a new dinghy pulled up and we introduced ourselves to its captain.  His name is Steve and he is the captain on a boat called Kialoa III which will be staying here for a few months.  After we realized that he had not cleared in, we quickly shared our experiences with Curacao formalities with the hope of sparing him some frustration and time.   He was really nice, so we had hoped to meet up with him later.

We had seen Kialoa III in several races earlier this year and she is a magnificent sailing machine!  Kialoa III was designed by Sparkman and Stephens as a 79ft ketch and built by Palmer Johnson in 1974, before being converted to a sloop in 1976. She held the Sydney to Hobart race record for 21 years and had many victories worldwide – see her various race results.

We ended up meeting with Steve at a happy hour at Pirate’s Nest (which is where most of the boaters can be found between 5p-6p daily).  We invited him over for dinner since he had not been on a boat like ours before.  The day before, Matt had tried out a new recipe that he received from our friends on Contrary Mary – chicken roti!  Matt made the roti bread (similar to a tortilla) and the super scrumptious chicken curry fixins for the inside all from scratch!  It was so spectacular, we ate it two nights in a row.  It was super fun hearing all of his stories.  He is a Kiwi by birth and has traveled all over the world.  His unique talents are highly sought after by many a yacht owners as he is not just a captain, but also a marine genius.  He, like Matt, can fix almost anything.

We decided that we wanted to explore Curacao Marine Ship Yard so the three of us hopped on the 6A bus to Willemstad.  Steve had ridden on the small buses, but this was his first adventure on the big bus (which are pretty darn nice with AC, decent chairs, and turnstiles at the entrance and exit).  For a f1.70 (or $.85) you can ride all the way into town.  Once in town, we pulled up our maps.me app and walked the couple of miles to Curacao Marine.  It was not a direct path and took us through some shabby parts of town (we’d seen this already, but it was new to Steve).  We ended up crossing “the ring” which is the main highway and scampered up a hill to see the yard.

Panorama view of the city from a top our hill.

Panorama view of the city from a top our hill.

Curacao Marine Shipyard and Marina.

Curacao Marine Shipyard and Marina.

Right when we walked in, we noticed a HUGE travel lift that could easily accommodate our boat and even Kialoa III.  This lift had a maximum capacity of 60 tons (to give you an idea of how big that is, we are only 11 tons and Kialoa II is 40 tons).  We toured the yard, took a few photos, visited the main office and ran into a Frenchman who is staying in the marina.  He was very chatty and informed us that the yard had recently went through management changes and life was excellent now!  He said the service was great, they were really friendly and did good work.  He was a a great salesman for the yard and for Curacao.

Curacao Marine Bar.

Curacao Marine Bar.

Huge lift for hauling boats. This is 1 of 2.

Huge lift for hauling boats. This is 1 of 2.

Steve is not a walker but he hung in there with us.  He is an avid mountain biker, runner, and swimmer but walking is not “his thing.”   We were all starving, so after we arrived back in town we needed to get something to eat.  A few weeks ago, Matt and I had walked by a large nondescript building with lots of seating inside and a row of cooks against the back wall.  We made a mental note to come back another time but we soon forgot.  Steve mentioned it during our walk so when we arrived back into town we head to it, Zus di Plaza.  A half dozen vendors line up along one side of the wall creating their specialty menus as customers sit on family style benches to enjoy their feasts.  The 2nd to last booth had arepa di pampuna or pumpkin pancakes so that is where we headed.  As we sat down, we started chatting with 2 locals who were already eating.  Their meal looked so good we decided to order two of our own.  It was a local, white filet fish, with TuTu (a black eyed pea concoction), salad, and mashed potatoes.  Let me tell you—it was fabulous!  We will certainly have to return here soon.

Exterior of Zus Di Plaza - looks nondescript.

Exterior of Zus Di Plaza – looks nondescript.

Interior Zus Di Plaza, before the lunch rush.

Interior Zus Di Plaza, before the lunch rush.

Fish Filet

Fish Filet

Tutu which is black eyed peas mushed with other yummy stuff

Tutu which is black eyed peas mushed with other yummy stuff

As the week progressed we were nearing the finale of the America’s Cup.  Steve is of course rooting for New Zealand (as he is a Kiwi) and we were just interested in seeing these spectacular flying machines.  Since Steve is staying at the Santa Barbara Beach Resort Marina he suggested we meet him at the poolside bar, Splash to watch the event.  When we arrived, he was seated next to a lovely couple who are also staying at the marina (they are American and rooting for Oracle, team U.S.A.).  I was torn, as I wanted America to win but they only had 2 American’s on their team and they weren’t even starting so they really aren’t an American team.  Besides Oracle had won a lot and it was time for a new country to take the win.
We ended up watching the last 3 days (or last 6 races) with Steve up at Splash which was proved to be a really fun outing.  We would swing by the dock, take a dip in the ocean, walk up to the bar, have a snack and some water and enjoy a fun event.

On Sunday, it was a bit of a $h*t show at the dock.  You see, it is free to tie your boat here and anyone can enjoy the beautiful turquoise water and white sandy beach.  The top photo is the dock on any normal weekday and the bottom photo is the weekend.

Week day and weekend shot of Santa Barbara dock.

Week day and weekend shot of Santa Barbara dock.

On Monday, we arrived a little early so we decided to explore the property a little bit.  They have a giant chess game (life size), horse shoes, a yoga platform (also used for weddings), and a beautiful golf course.

Santa Barbara Golf Course.

Santa Barbara Golf Course.

Santa Barbara eating area - can you imagine a romantic dinner here?

Santa Barbara eating area – can you imagine a romantic dinner here?

Stay tuned for more adventures with our new friend Steve.

Propane Pizza, and Parties

We are trying to get our blog caught up with reality so we have been posting 3 updates each week.  Unfortunately, we are still about 4-5 weeks behind so be patient with us as we try to get you up to date.

Matt and I have been enjoying our time in Curacao, we have learned the bus system and found a super duper handy website that tells us where the buses are so we don’t have to wait outside in the heat.  We make use of the free daily bus (except Sunday) that takes boaters to the market each morning and we have met some new friends.

As we were coming into Spanish Waters for the first time a few weeks ago, a couple was enjoying some downtime at the Santa Barbara Beach Resort.  They have been thinking about buying a boat, saw us come in to the anchorage and decided to google “Sugar Shack” which brought up our blog.  They read a little about us and sent us a message.  We met them for happy hour and thoroughly enjoyed their company.  They are from the Netherlands, have a 5th wheel and travel the U.S. and have a home here in Curacao.  Thom created a really useful and awesome product called Thom’s Planner.  If you use a gant chart or an excel spreadsheet to track projects, weddings, events, or schedules, I strongly encourage you to check out his product as it is simple, intuitive, and very easy to use.  Bianca, his wife, is an amazingly talented artist who sells her work all over the world.  Check out her Facebook page.


During happy hour, we mentioned our crazy propane adventure (see post from 8/1) and he took pity on us!  He offered to drive us to get refills (an 3 other boaters who were in a similar situation).  He met us at Fisherman’s Harbor, and drove us to Curoil (a gas station in Muizenberg) which was about 20 minutes by car.  We piled our tanks into the back of his truck and headed out.  When we arrived, the attendant who was new, informed us that the woman who knew how to handle our American style fittings just left for an errand and would be back in an hour – bummer.  Oh well, we decided to head to Goisco MegaStore which is like a Walmart on steroids.  It was a win win for everyone as we all walked away with something.  I found my coveted diet gingerale and Matt found some fresh jalapenos!  Sweet.  Back to Curoil where we were we filled up our 20lb tank for a whopping $9!  Yep, you read that right.  We paid $40 in St. Marteen.  The funny thing is, it would have cost $4.50 to fill up as a home unit, but they considered our tank to be a BBQ unit so we had to pay double.  No problem as double was still waaaay cheaper than any other island.  We will have to come back here to top up our tanks before we leave–for shizzle.

Goisco has quite the candy selection and this is only part of their selection.

Goisco has quite the candy selection and this is only part of their selection.

They also have a pretty extensive produce department.

They also have a pretty extensive produce department.

Thom and Bianca invited us over for pizza night as they recently installed a new pizza oven.  So, we took Sweet N Low over to Fisherman’s Harbor and walked to their house as it was less than a mile away.  Their home was beautiful and had a breathtaking view of Spanish Waters (including our boat).  Every room was peppered with Bianca’s artwork.  They invited a few other friends who live on the island and we had a glorious time!  What a fabulous night with new friends, tasty food, and titillating conversations.  We hope to spend a lot more time with our new friends including dinner on Sugar Shack.

Bianca & the first of many scrumptious pies on pizza night!

Bianca & the first of many scrumptious pies on pizza night!

Thom & Bianca's pizza oven.

Thom & Bianca’s pizza oven.

Over the course of the night, Thom and Bianca served up between 8-10 pies ranging from vegetarian, to meat to cheese lovers!  I didn’t think they would be eaten, but somehow we all gobbled them up!

Thom’s dad has a sailboat so they have a sailing background.  They plan to charter a catamaran in the Virgin Islands to get their feet wet in the Caribbean and we look forward to being a part of their new adventure.  It’s been a lot of fun helping them with questions (as much as we can) and providing some guidance of what its like to live on a boat.  But, since they have already lived in a 5th wheel they have some of the hardest transitioning items covered, such as limited water and electricity, traveling light, and being in a home that is mobile.  Either way, we hope to continue seeing our new friends out on the big blue watery road!