Tag Archives: living on a boat

La Vida Bella - Amador Causeway

Best Layed Plans…Change. La Playita

Our second stay at La Playita was meant to be a productive one with lots of errands and chores.  We made a plan for each day, then remade the plans each night.  After all, plans were meant to change, right?

We arrived Thursday by mid-afternoon to receive our batteries.  Our hope was to get the batteries, load them on to the dinghy at high tide, and get them on to the boat.  Then either do laundry or squeeze in a quick trip to the marine store.

Our shipper, Coray from MailBoxes Etc. sent a text that he had picked up the customs agent and they were on their way to get the pallet of batteries.  Sweet!  We jumped in Sweetie and texted him that we were at the dock at 1145.  Little miscommunication, they still had to load the batteries and would be at our dock in 30 minutes.

I’ll spare you the boring details, but it took Coray 2 trips to La Flamencio marina to meet with another customs agent there, 2 trips to the Balboa Yacht Club to meet with a different customs agent, and 4 trips to us before he could finally unload the batteries.  Evidently, the invoice stated Amador Yacht Club as the delivery location as opposed to La Playita Marina.  That small error was causing all sorts of problems, but Coray got it done, albeit 5.5 hours later.

At this point, it was low tide and raining.  Yep, raining.  It is dry season and has not rained in over 3 months.  But, the day our batteries are delivered it poured.  Matt loaded each battery, one at a time on to our dolly, and slowly walked them down the very steep and slippery ramp to the dinghy dock.  I’m not sure how he did it, but they all made it safely into the dinghy.

Luckily for us, the dinghy is rated for 1200 lbs.  With the batteries, Matt and I, we were pushing 1100 lbs.  But, the extra water from the rain probably added another 20-30 lbs.  We slowly made our way to the big boat where Matt rigged a pulley system.  He was in the dinghy while I was on the big boat.  As he hoisted the battery up, at a 3 to 1 ratio, I pulled it in once it was above the life line.  Then he lowered it to the deck as I guided it into place.

IMAGE:  If you look closely you can see the rain drops on the water.  A soaked Matt prepares battery #5 for hoisting on deck and then all 8 batteries on board Sugar Shack.

Batteries on board, finally.

Batteries on board, finally.

What does it take to deliver a pallet of (8) batteries from the U.S. to Panama?  It takes 16 documents, 29 stamps, 1 vender, 2 shippers and lots of patience.

Battery paperwork, 16 docs & 29 stamps.

Battery paperwork, 16 docs & 29 stamps.

They are on the boat.  But the day was shot as we waited at the marina office all day so as not to miss him.  No laundry, no errands.  Re-plan, re-schedule.

The next day, I got up early to use the awesome washer/dryer units.  I had been bragging on how efficient these are to everyone and of course, this last time they sucked.  Normally, the washers take 28 minutes, but for some reason, they took 52 minutes (at $2 for each machine).  The dryers, normally take 42 minutes, but after the first run, everything was still damp.  CRAP!  Put $2 in each machine and start over.  After 2.5 hours of trying to dry my clothes I realize that the gas must be off as there is no heat coming out of either dryer.  I gathered my wet laundry, alerted the office of the problem, and went back to the boat to hang 4 loads of laundry.  The perfect white trash vessel.

That took way longer than expected, so we changed our plans again.  We decided to take a taxi cab to the health clinic, as opposed to the bus.  We need to get a Yellow Fever vaccine in order to get into Costa Rica, Ecuador, and Peru.

Not a problem, a fellow cruiser told us where to go and what to do.  We grab a cab and hurry to the facility as they close at 1400 (it was 1230p).  We waited for 5 people to pay the cashier before heading to the nurse.  When it was our turn, we dutifully hand over our boat paperwork and passports.  She looks at me, then stands up and says, “no.”  She did not like my shorts and tank top and told us that we had to come back with long pants and a short/long sleeved top.  CRAP.  As we headed to our cab, the security guard asked why we were leaving so soon.  We told him what happened, he rushes inside, and comes out with a pair of men’s pants.  It would work for Matt, but I was stuck.  We thanked him profusely and left.

We had planned on leaving on Sunday, but now we have to come back on Monday to get the vaccine.  Replain, now that we still had a taxi, we decided to at least do one of our errands.  We hit Riba Smith, a super nice grocery store that has diet cranberry gingerale.  My favorite.  We grabbed 8 sleeves and headed back to the boat in time for Friday night happy hour.

The next day, we did some computer work (digital paperwork).  We had to do return our damaged wind vang  and broken Henckel knife, find a hotel for Matt’s mom who wants to visit us in Costa Rica, pay bills, and do our taxes.  After a few hours, we headed to town for more provisioning.  We hopped on the bus to Allbrook Mall, then hopped on another bus that dropped us off right in front of the marine store.

We stopped in for a $3.75 Chinese lunch (which tasted that cheap), then picked up some wire, cab vMs #ackle aIv=FoLT)t|O%c
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Heading to La Playita at sunset.

Isla Taboga and the inevitable Return to La Playita

Located 7-miles off the coast of Panama are the Taboga islands.  Isla Tabogo  was called “Island of Flowers” when it was under Spanish rule.  They used this island as a base from which to loot the riches of Peru and the South American Continent.  Later, it became a notorious pirate hideout.  But in 1840, the island became the headquarters for the Pacific Steamship Navigation Company.  Then during the French Panama Canal construction, a hospital and sanitarium were built and the island was used to to treat workers with yellow fever.  Today, the island is a wildlife refuge across its 8km perimeter.

There are several hiking trails around both islands but unfortunately there is no easy way to get to shore.  There is one good anchorage between Isla Tabogo and El Morro which is supposed to be protected. Arrow below points to the anchorage.

Map of Isla Taboga and El Morro

Map of Isla Taboga and El Morro

We arrived in the middle of the afternoon and decided to watch the wind, waves, and current before going ashore.  The anchorage is full of commercial moorings and one large commercial dock that brings lots of traffic.  Finding an anchor spot was challenging as we did not want to be too close to a mooring.  We found what we thought was a good spot and endured the small incoming rolls.

IMAGE: Isla Taboga behind El Morro and below is the town at Isla Tabogo with the sun illuminating it.

Isla Tabogo behind El Morro and below is the town at Isla Tabogo

Isla Tabogo behind El Morro and below is the town at Isla Tabogo

The tide varied by 5 meters (yep, 15′) so we put out enough scope to cover high tide.

Boats that have returned to La Playita and their reasons why:

  • Itchy Foot – Rigging
  • Nomad – Navigation equipment
  • Shannigans – Electronics
  • Sugar Shack – Delayed deliveries
  • Moon Rebel – Electronics
  • And a few others who have escaped my memory
Rio Cacique Adventure with "BreakAway"

Las Perlas Archipelago: Part I

The Las Perlas Archipelago were calling to us, but we were stuck in a routine and had a hard time getting motivated to leave.  It was a decent anchorage, we had lots of cruiser friends around, knew the transit system, and all the best happy hours, and wifi spots.  But, Sugar Shack was a disgrace!  She was incredibly dirty from all the muck in the water and it was truly embarrassing.  However, the water was nasty and neither Matt nor I wanted to get in to clean the boat.  Over 3 weeks later…

First things first, pressure wash the chain and bridle as it comes up to try to remove one layer of growth.

Pressure washing the anchor chain

Pressure washing the anchor chain

The 44-mile trip to Las Perlas Archipielago took us about 5.5 hours.  We were able to fly the spinnaker for about an hour before the winds completely died and forced us to motor.  But, like our previous trip, we saw lots of fabulous sea life.  The first time we made this journey (with Wayne, Heather, Michael, Stacy, and Gene) we saw whale spouts.  But this time we actually saw  a bit of the whale’s body and their huge tales.  Plus, there are lots and lots of birds.  I love it when they take up residence on a floating piece of wood.

Birds hanging out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

Birds hanging out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

During our last visit to the Las Perlas Archipelago, we visited 3 islands: Isla Contradora, Isla Chapera, and Mogo Mogo.  We had planned on returning to this area as there are over 220 islands that make up this archipelago.  Unfortunately, we only have 10 days to explore the Las Perlas Achipelago as our batteries are scheduled to arrive mid-April.  We decided to start at the southern end of the chain and slowly work our way back toward the northern end.  So, we headed to Isla Del Rey, the southernmost island in Las Perlas.  The 33-mile trip took a little under 5 hours to motor (zero wind).

Originally, we were going to anchor at Concholon Bay, but we changed our minds once we arrived, as it was really rolly.  It took us less than an hour to round the tip of Isla Del Rey, arriving at Punta Cocos.  This bay had a stunning, extended beach and an old Navy outpost.  Not long after we anchored, friends on “Breakaway” arrived (we had not seen them since La Playita several weeks ago).

This crazy ramp moves with the tides (low tide below) and leads up to the Navy outpost.  The small Navy boat is at the dock while the large Navy boat is below.

Ramp to Navy Facility and Navy Boat Keeping Us Safe

Ramp to Navy Facility and Navy Boat Keeping Us Safe

At the eastern end of the bay is a sunken fishing boat or pelican residence.

Sunken Fishing Vessel at Isla Del Rey

Sunken Fishing Vessel at Isla Del Rey

The next morning, we picked up “Breakaway” and headed toward the dock. We had hoped to walk around the World War II airfield and outpost, but the working Navy facilities wouldn’t allow it.  So, we changed course and walked the long and beautiful beach.  Lucky for us as we found a mango tree that had gifted us with several ripe mangos!  Sweet!

Matt enjoying some solitude on the beach

Matt enjoying some solitude on the beach

Later in the afternoon, we each headed to Rio Cacique, the next bay over.  Our guide book mentioned that we could take the dinghy up river.  Just before high tide, “Breakaway” came by to pick us up. A sandbar blocked the entrance so we carried their small dinghy and outboard to the river bank.  It was pretty shallow, but we were able to paddle up river with the current to admire the beautiful, partially submerged mangroves and rainforest in total silence.

Rio Cacique Adventure with "BreakAway"

Rio Cacique Adventure with “BreakAway”

We had sundowners on “Breakaway” and said our goodbyes as they are heading to Ecuador and we are heading back up the Perlas chain.

On the way to our next destination, we passed by Tres Pilares de Arroz (three pieces of rice) which made me crack up!  Who gets to come up with the names of these islands?  Probably the same creative people who come up with nail polish names.

Rio Cacique Adventure with "BreakAway"

Rio Cacique Adventure with “BreakAway”

The next island we motored to was Isla San Jose.  This is the second largest island in the Las Perlas chain and is privately owned.  The owners house is located in Isla De Olega Bay which had one large house and several cabins in the surrounding forest.  In the bay out front were three fishing boats of varying sizes.

Owners residence at Isla De San Jose

Owners residence at Isla De San Jose

We anchored at Ensenada Playa Grande and had the entire bay to ourselves – it was so picturesque.  The water is pretty clear, which meant it was time to clean the water line!  Matt grabbed the scraper and one SUP while I grabbed a scrub brush and the other SUP.  He attacked the outside hulls while I hunkered down and worked on the inside of the hulls.  This was a multiple step process.  First, we got the top lawyer of growth and grime off with the scrubber and scraper, then used a cloth to muscle off the remaining soft filth.  Next, we rubbed “On & Off” which is marine grade hull cleaner to try to remove the yellow tint and bring back the white fiberglass.  We finished the starboard side, but ran out of energy for the port.  Still need to hit the port with On & Off and then she will be sparkly clean.

Cleaning the water line of the boat

Cleaning the water line of the boat

We also cleaned up the stainless on the boat using ospho.  The rust accumulates very quickly which requires cleaning the stainless steel (all pad eyes, stanchions, blocks, locks, and lines) every 6 weeks.  Before and after photos below.

Cleaning up the stainless on the boat

Cleaning up the stainless on the boat

We didn’t spend all our time cleaning, we did enjoy the shore as well.  This was such a beautiful and tranquil anchorage!  The beach was gorgeous, with a tint of red from the neighboring rocks and corals.  The shore was peppered with sea shells and tracks from birds and a gator!

We did have to pull Sweetie up pretty far on the beach and then the tide went out…

Sugar Shack and Sweetie enjoying a piece of paradise

Sugar Shack and Sweetie enjoying a piece of paradise

Image: Top row: red tinted sand and red cliffs.  Middle row: Sweetie on shore and Sugar Shack alone at the anchorage.  Bottom row: delightful untouched beach and gator tracks.

Isla San Jose anchorage

Isla San Jose anchorage

Each night we were gifted with a beautiful sunset.  This doesn’t suck!

Breathtaking sunset

Breathtaking sunset

After a few days we pulled ourselves away from this paradise and moved to Isla Pedro Gonzales.  It was a short 11-mile motor, with no wind.  We anchored in front of the little village which consisted of about 100 colorful homes that housed the 500+ villagers. There was not much to do onshore other than walk around greeting the locals who were trying to enjoy their Sunday afternoon.  We made this a lunch stop without the lunch…

Pedro Gonzales and the colorful houses

Pedro Gonzales and the colorful houses

Stay tuned for more on the Las Perlas Archipelago ….

Sugar Shack Visits the following Islas within Las Perlas Achipelago:

  • De Fuenche
  • Bayoneta
  • Pacheca