Tag Archives: nuku hiva

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Round the Outside to Anaho Bay

Continuing our circumnavigation around Nuku Hiva with Shawn and Sharon.  Starting at Taihoe Bay, to Controller’s Bay to Anaho Bay (northern part of the island).  We left Controller’s Bay and pointed the boat toward the northern bay of Anaho.  A short 17.5nm trip that took a little over 3 hours with an average speed of 5.5kt.  A large heard of dolphins came to play with us for 45 minutes showing their prowess and agility.

Dolphins leading the way

Dolphins leading the way

Anaho Bay has a lovely beach, tiny church, and a pension (hotel type place) with an eatery.  We thought it would be very crowded as Anaho Bay is known to be one of the prettiest bays in Nuku Hiva.  But it was not too bad with only 11 boats in the anchorage.  To put it in perspective, there are well over 50 boats in Taihoe Bay.

Anaho Bay

Anaho Bay

A few locals were hanging around enjoying the sun, cleaning their catch, and playing music.  The church cannot hold many people, but there are only 12 people who live in this bay.

Small Church in Anaho Bay

Small Church in Anaho Bay

There are beautiful wild horses that roam around and run the beach – because they can!

Wild horses on the beach

Wild horses on the beach

We did a quick walk about just to stretch our legs and then retired back to the boat for a lazy day.

Anaho Beach Stroll

Anaho Beach Stroll

The next morning greeted us with a gorgeous sunrise and motivated us to do another hike.

Sunset in Anaho Bay

Sunrise in Anaho Bay

Hike to Haatuaua

Early the next morning we set out to explore the beach.  We read about a nice hike to another bay.  This time we clearly saw the trail the day before and we had a path.  It was a super easy and pretty hike along the beach and over the mountain to another beach. 

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

We had the entire bay to ourselves which was awesome.  The mountains surrounding the beach had spectacular ridges.  It looked like a large version of stalagmites reaching for the clouds.

Beautiful beach ridges

Beautiful beach ridges

On our way back we ran into a family and talked them into taking our photo at the top of the ridge.

Group photo at the top of the hill

Group photo at the top of the hill

When we got back, we found our dinghy on “the hard.”  Which means she was beached.  The tide had gone out and she was sittin pretty in the sand.

Beached Sweetie

Beached Sweetie

Hike was a total of 4.8mile and 12,991 steps.  Not a bad day’s walk.

Daniel’s Bay

Our longest passage with Shawn and Sharon was from Anaho Bay to Daniel’s Bay at 25.8nm over 5 hours. Only a few dolphins came out to play with us, but we did manage to land a rather large wahoo!  After about 30-35 minutes of fighting with the fish, he gave a little pull, then came in rather easily.  When we pulled him on the boat, we realized something (most likely a shark) ate his tail off.  With no means of propulsion and probably bleeding out he gave up. 

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

As the boys spent over an hour cleaning the fish, I enjoyed the amazing topography of the mountain ridges.

Spectacular Ridges

Spectacular Ridges

We arrived in the late afternoon and only had a short time to visit the beach.  A cute little dog befriended Sharon and stuck like glue to us.

Daniel's Bay River

Daniel’s Bay River

We walked along the river’s edge where the river meets the lagoon and did a little photo shoot.

Daniel's Bay River with Sharon

Daniel’s Bay River with Sharon

We all enjoyed a nice hot shower before dinner.  The boys in their towels being silly.

Boys dress up for dinner

Boys dress up for dinner

You can’t come to Daniel’s Bay without doing the nature walk to the “trickle fall” (which is actually a waterfall in the winter).  It is a gorgeous walk down an easy path lined with beautiful plants, flowers, and fruit trees.  You cross the river several times, climb over some rocks, and under trees.  Unfortunately, the waterfall was not even a trickle fall, but it still is really pretty.

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

On the way back took some fun and goofy photos.

Waterfall at Daniel's Bay

Waterfall at Daniel’s Bay

Total hike 7.2 miles, 17,15 steps.  We rewarded ourselves with lunch at Teiki and Kua

Back to Reality

The next day we had to head back to Taihoe Bay so they could catch their flight back to the states.  We had an early birthday celebration with pork chops, cheesecake and my favorite rose wine! 

Birthday celebration

Birthday celebration

It was really hard to say “so long” to Shawn and Sharon!  They are such amazing people and great friends!

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Hiking Nuku Hiva

We begrudgingly left Daniel’s Bay to head back to Taihoe Bay. It was a quick hour motor back to the main anchorage where we secured a spot near the west end of the bay close to the small resort.  We had a “changing of the guards” so to speak where Wayne would be leaving us in a few days and Shawn and Sharon were coming on board in Nuku Hiva.  Both Shawn and Sharon are big runners so we planned several hikes during their visit.  

After the Melnar’s arrived, we headed back to the boat to begin celebrating their arrival.  It was a fabulous evening of good friends, cold drinks, and tasty food.  It’s been awhile since all 5 of us were together and it felt glorious!

Bon Voyage Wayne!

The next day we dropped Wayne off at the taxi and said our sad goodbyes.  Since, we were already on shore we decided to do the hike to Collette’s Bay.  We were able to walk Shawn and Sharon through town, the artisan market, and fresh produce market along the way.

We also swung by the beautiful Nuku Hiva Catholic church which has some amazing wood and stone carvings.

Church on Nuku Hiva

Church on Nuku Hiva

HIKE TO COLETTE’S BAY

Our “late start” of 1130 meant it was hot, hot, hot during our walk.  The first 1.5 miles of the “hike” is a walk down the road.  Then the road disappears and it becomes a dirt path.  The trail is well marked and easy to follow.  The last 1-1.5 miles is up hill until you reach the beach shores.

We enjoyed a few hours in the water before heading back.  A little piece of paradise hidden in Nuku Hiva.

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Shawn and Sharon Colette’s Bay

Of course, Matt had to be part of the photo shoot

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Hike total distance 5.8 miles, 14,243 steps, and 22 floors climbed.

CONTROLLER’S BAY

A short, but uncomfortable motor from Taihoe Bay to Hakahaa Bay (Controller’s Bay) was into the wind and waves.  We decided to leave early while it was a little calmer, but still encountered 2-meter seas.  Luckily Shawn and Sharon weathered through it and we arrived without incidence. 

Controller’s Bay has three “lobes” or bays where you can anchor.  Most people anchor in the middle one because it is bigger, has good holding, and is where the village is located.  The village consists of three small magasins, a medical center, post office, artisan center, and a church.  This is the main community area, artisan market, and performance area during festivals.

Artisan Market and Performance Area

Artisan Market and Performance Area

We had heard that there is a pretty waterfall hike in Controller’s Bay.  Of course, we did not have directions and the location was not clearly explained in the compendium (cruiser information sharing document we use).  It was not on maps.me or any of our other map apps.  Well, how hard can it be to find a waterfall?

The Elusive Waterfall

We started down the one road and headed toward the mountains.  Surprisingly, it was a nice paved road through “town” and toward what we thought was the path to the waterfall.  The hike was supposed to be 2-hours, but we did not know if it was 2-hours each way or round trip. 

After walking down the road for about 90 minutes, we spotted a waterfall.  We all hoped it was not the waterfall we were supposed to be heading to as it was really far away (top photo below).

Matt and Sharon decided to head back shortly after spotting the waterfall.  Shawn and I decided to continue on to the “waterfall overlook.”  Probably not the smartest decision.  Shawn is recovering (nicely) from knee surgery late last year and I was in flip flops. 

Another 2 miles later and about ¾ of a mile from our waypoint, a small vehicle came up the road.  I stuck my thumb out hoping for a ride.  They stopped and wouldn’t you know it they recognized my Sugar Shack hat.  We climbed in the back of their little truck and they took us to where maps.me indicated a lookout was located.  Nice view, but not lookout and no waterfall.  We had gone from 600’ elevation to 1200’ elevation and had already hiked 4.5 miles.  Top photo is the original waterfall and bottom photo is the “lookout” view of no waterfall (bottom photo below).

Controller's Bay Failed Hike

Controller’s Bay Failed Hike

Worn Out

We were both tired and ill prepared, but continued on back towards town.  By the time we got to town, we had no money, out of water, and had a few blisters to show for our 9-mile hike.  Again, probably not the best decision, but an interesting adventure.  We did come across a heard of baby piglets which were cute.

Little Piglets

Little Piglets

Hike total distance was 8.9 miles, 20,546 steps, and 61 floors climbed (1/4 mile assisted by a truck).

A Reprieve for us all

Once back on the boat, we headed for a little sandy islet where we hung out in the water and rested our weary bones.  Shawn found the energy to paddle over, but Matt drove Sharon and I in the dinghy – thank goodness.

Shawn paddling to beach

Shawn paddling to beach

Did you read our last post about Daniel’s Bay and our hikes there?

Coming up next:

We explore Anaho bay together.  Located on the north coast of Nuku Hiva.

Nuku Hiva

Quest: 3 Hikes and a Sacred Site

Matt and I were determined to get some exercise traversing across these mountainous ridges.  Our quest was to explore all 4 “known” hikes during our short visit.  Our first hike was to Baie Colette (read about it in the last blog).  A few days later we adventured to a gazebo atop a mountain, a waterfall, and a sacred site called Koeva.

Gazebo Hike

Taiohae anchorage is actually inside a caldera.  Probably one of the coolest anchorages we have been in since not many people can say they parked their boat inside a volcano!  At the southwest side of the caldera, atop a mountainous ridge sits a gazebo with spectacular views of the bay.  The photo shows the gazebo from the half way point in our hike.

Gazebo at top of Hill

Gazebo at top of Hill

It was labeled as a “gentle” hike.  I’m not sure what that means as it seems like an oxy-moron to me.  But we ventured on this quest.  The first 2-2.5 miles were a gradual climb up the hill on a paved road.  But, the last 1-1.5 miles were straight up a dirt, rocky path with lots of switch backs.  It was steep, but worth the view.

Many benches and rock tables were scattered about at the top of the ridge.  The rock tables had really cool carvings showing what the view was in front of you.

Maps carved in stone at top of hill

Maps carved in stone at top of hill

The gazebo faces Baie de Taiohae and gives sweeping views of this beautiful caldera

Taiohae Bay from the gazebo

Taiohae Bay from the gazebo

After cooling off, we decided to stop at the “pebble” beach which is another hike just off the main path for the gazebo.  As it turns out, it was not much of a “pebble” beach but rather a rock beach.  Either way it provided a nice opportunity to dip our feet in the water and cool off from the hot day.  The top photo shows the beach in the lower right corner.

Pebble Beach

Pebble Beach

Results

  • Total Miles:  6.5
  • Total Steps: 16,653
  • Flights Climbed: 55 floors

Waterfall Hike

Most of the cruisers we know make use of a compendium that has a lot of data on each of the archipelagos and islands.  It is crowd sourced and managed by a boat called Soggy Paws. In this document, a cruiser mentions a nice hike to a waterfall.  We gathered our friends on Maple and began a new quest.

It was pretty easy to find even though there is no true trail.  A lot of the directions were similar to “turn right at the banyan tree.”  But we found it or rather we found a waterfall but not exactly what we were expecting.  It certainly was water cascading from the mountain, but it fed the village’s main water supply.  Which meant no swimming, no dipping, and no cooling off.  But it was pretty.

Our waterfall hike ends here

Our waterfall hike ends here

Results

  • Total Miles:  3.5
  • Total Steps: 10,435
  • Flights Climbed: 6 floors

Koeva Hike

We believe Koeva to be a holy spot with some historical or archaeological significance.  Unfortunately, there is very little information on Koeva both locally and online.  The entire site was spread across a grassy area and covered in trees and wildlife.  There were dozens of 1-sided huts with thatched roofs.  Elaborately carved poles held the roof and wall up.

Koeva tiki poles

Koeva tiki poles

Lots of tikis were peppered across the region.  Some were hidden by wildlife while others were in prominent locations.

Tikis spread throughout the site

Tikis spread throughout the site

The huts reminded me of separated areas for families or clans to pray or pay homage to their gods. But honestly, I do not know.

Huts in Koeva

Huts in Koeva

Some of the huts had things inside like an outrigger or tiki

Koeva Site

Koeva Site

There were plenty of beautiful views along the way.

Views along our hikes

Views along our hikes

Results

  • Total Miles:  6
  • Total Steps: 15,821
  • Flights Climbed: 50 floors

Some pretty photos of the black sand beach and Tu Hiva Tiki:

Nuku Hiva

Nuku Hiva