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Making of an atoll

The Making of an Atoll: The Subsidence Phenomenon

Every single island in the Tuamotus, and a few islands in the other archipelagos, are atolls.  So, what is an atoll?

An atoll begins to form when a volcanic island becomes inactive.  All of the islands in French Polynesia are slowly sinking and moving west.  Some have just been sinking a lot longer than others.  The volcanic islands in the Tuamotus are some of the oldest in the region.

The volcanic island sinks or subsides under its own weight.  At the same time, a coral reef forms around the island.  This takes about 6 million years.  The coral reef can be between 0 and 200 meters deep.  Anything deeper than 200 meters soon dies as it does not have enough light to survive. 

Over time, the volcanic mountain disappears completely.  The coral proliferates as the volcano slips into the ocean.  New colonies spring up on the skeletons of the old ones, constantly renewing the calcareous crown of the surface.  Eventually, what remains of the mountain is an underwater basalt platform covered with a thick calcareous crust.

This display is a good example of the making of an atoll.  The image up front shows the volcano, the center shows the mountain sinking and the furthest one is an atoll.

Making of an atoll

Making of an atoll

Typically, there is a passe that allows vessels to enter the lagoon that is surrounded by the coral reef.  Some atolls have no passe which makes them impossible to visit.  Other atolls have a dangerous passe which has to be navigated during a certain time (slack tide) to avoid damaging your vessel.

Teti’aroa’s atoll

Teti’aroa has no passe.  There is no way to bring the big boat into the protected lagoon.  However, there are 5 mooring balls located near the reef buried in over 50 meters of water.  We were able to secure one of these moorings.  The photo below is from our Navionic app which shows a light gray reef all the way around the atoll.  The yellow spots indicate the motus or islets and the blue (inside the gray) is the lagoon.  The gray represents the coral around the motus.

Teti'aroa motus

Teti’aroa motus

The Brando Resort

The History behind Teti’aroa atoll

Imagine a vacation spot for Tahitian royalty that also captured the heart of Marlon Brando.  That spot is located 33 miles north of Tahiti called Teti’aroa atoll.  It’s a small atoll with 12 small motus.  The lagoon in the center of the atoll is 4.3 miles wide and 30 meters deep.  However, there is no reef opening which makes access impossible for boats.

It’s hard to imagine that Tahitians need a vacation from Tahiti, an island paradise.  However, the Teti’aroa atoll became a place for Tahitian chiefs to entertain themselves.  What did that consist of?  Song, dance, fishing and feasting. It was also a special place for the ariori to practice their custom of ha’apori’a. Which included eating to gain weight and whitening their skin. Plump and pale was a sign of “well-being and prosperity” for the chiefs.

The red triangle is Sugar Shack.  The blue arrow shows you where the Brando Resort is located. Green arrow is the airport.

Teti'aroa motus

Teti’aroa motus

History of Teti’aroa

William Bligh was the first European to visit the atoll in 1789. He was looking for early mutineers.  In 1904, the royal family sold the motu to Johnston Walter Williams. Williams, a Canadian national was the only dentist in Tahiti. Williams managed the islets as a residence and a copra plantation.

Marlon Brando “discovered” Teti’aroa in 1960 while scouting filming locations for Mutiny on the Bounty. Scenes for that movie were shot on Tahiti and Mo’orea.  Brando purchased Teti’aroa’s atolls from one of Williams’s direct descendants, Mrs. Duran.  The islets were under a 99-year lease by Marlon Brando.  

Teti'aroa aka Brando Island

Teti’aroa aka Brando Island

Wanting to live on the atoll, Brando built a small village on Motu Onetahi in 1970. It consisted of an airstrip, 12 simple bungalows, a kitchen hut, dining hall, and bar.  Everything was built from local materials. Those included coconut wood, thatch roofs and even large seashells for sinks. The village became a place for friends, family and scientists. Particular those studying the atoll’s ecology and archaeology.  Brando signed a new will and trust agreement that left no instructions for island.

Teti’aroa Pacific Beachcomber SC began construction on Onetahi in 2009. The first phase of building included reconstruction and reorientation of the runway. The islet Onetahi now includes a luxury resort, spa, research station, staff village and private runway.

Locals completed work on The Brando Resort in July 2014.  Eight of Marlon’s eleven children and the Brando Estate manage the motus.

Another fabulous link of the famous The Brando Resort.  You too can stay at the Brando Resort for a mere 3300 euros a night 🙂

Brando resort off Teti'aroa

Brando Island off Teti’aroa

Teti'aroa surge off the mooring

Sweet Sail Day: Tahiti to Teti’aroa

It was time to leave Tahiti, officially.  We left Tahiti “proper” or the main anchorage of Marina Taina a few days ago.  During that time, we were in the sweet anchorage of Point Venus which is still a big part of Tahiti.  We did a little more exploring and found a few large grocery stores, poste, pharmacy, fuel stations, and plumbing shop.  Who knew there would be supplies at the North point of Tahiti?

We met some great cruisers while anchored in Point Venus.  Odyle is a tall ship with a lovely family onboard: Abraham, Susan, Saoirse and Cian.  They’ve been at this anchorage for a few months repairing their engine, but all is good now.  We also met JollyDogs and Zeizo who are both American boats.  Great anchorage and good company.  Couldn’t resist inserting another cool shot of the famous lighthouse.

Point Venus Lighthouse

Point Venus Lighthouse

Sweet Sail

We raised the main sail, pulled up the hook and set out to a new island. We were both excited about visiting Teti’aroa as it is a small atoll with no access into the lagoon.  There are a few moorings just outside the reef that are available for charters and cruisers.  We were hoping to get lucky enough to snag one of the moorings.

Our sail over to Teti’aroa was amazing.   We shut the engines off just after leaving the reef. We had full sails, small swell, and wind on the beam.  It was a glorious day with blue skies, puffy clouds and calm seas.  Just another reminder why love sailing – picture perfect.

Passage Details:

Miles Traveled:  29.2nm

Duration:  4.5 hrs

Avg. Speed: 5.8

Max Speed: 9.4

Wind Speed: 10-12 kts

Swell:  .5 meters on the beam

About a few miles out from the atoll we could see 3 masts.  We were a bit crestfallen as we had heard there were only 3 moorings here.  However, we were determined to check it out up close.  It is pretty darn scary to see the reef breaking in front of and so close to the boats.

We entered the breakwater and motored around the three boats.  To our surprise we saw that there was a free mooring just behind them.  Sweet!  We tied up and enjoyed the show.  What show are you thinking?  One of the charter boat captains was bringing in his guests and had to navigate the reef and rather large waves.  It is an art to be able to get their dinghy through this dangerous area.  The surge is breaking less than 30 meters from the boat.  Hope this mooring holds our boat.

Teti'aroa surge off the mooring

Teti’aroa surge off the mooring

It is a breezy, but also rolly.  The surge is big, and the waves are loud.

Surge at Teti'aroa

Surge at Teti’aroa