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The Arresting Beauty of Amanu

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Matt and I spent several days exploring the motus all around our anchorage.  We found little passageways between the reefs that allowed us to bring Sweetie closer to the motu.  The first day was really blind ambition.  We had set out with no water, no money and a curiosity to see the small spits of land that make up the ring around Amanu.

On our first adventure netted lots of sea treasures.  We only collect shells from the beach and always make sure they are uninhabited.  The strange thing is that most of the really beautiful shells are occupied.  We gently put them back where we found them and walk away with a pout.

The water is still warm, but not as warm as in Tikehau.  We explore all the way out to the reef (can you find Matt in the photo)?

We walk across dead coral, shards of coral, and broken shells.  Some areas are shallow water where you have to avoid the millions (not exaggerating) of sea cucumbers.  I swear Amanu is the breeding ground for all of the world’s sea cucumbers.  Ick!

Walking across shallow water proves to be more challenging then you’d think.  Between trying not to step on the sea cucumbers, walking around the coral and avoiding the holes.

We found a road that looked like it would lead to town.  But we had already walked a few miles with no water and since we had no money, we decided to walk to town another day.

The Town of Amanu

The next day, we headed out more prepared.  We had water, money, Band-Aids, and a burning desire to see the town of Amanu.

We decided to take the road into town and walk the beach on the way back.  It did not take nearly as long to get town as we thought but then again, we went straight there instead of exploring the motus (since we did that the day before).  The walk around town and round trip ended up being about 4.6miles.

The town is super small and consists of the following:

  • Magasin (market) with only basic dry goods (no fresh)
  • Le Maire (mayor’s office)
  • Clinic
  • OPT (post office)
  • Two cemeteries
  • Church
  • Many abandoned relics

There are a few roads, but we walked all of them and around the entire town in about 10 minutes.  Very small with loads of friendly people.

We came across several cemeteries. I know it is morbid but I am always fascinated with cemeteries.  Here we found several amazingly gorgeous, hand carved crosses, with lots of shellac.

There were lots of abandoned buildings dating back to the 1800s!  I sure wish we had the history on these buildings.

The church is right by the pass. It is an old building, but behind it you will see modern technology at its best (solar panels).

The Pass at Amanu 

We hung out by the pass leading into the Amanu lagoon and watched a few boats come in during slack tide.  The top two photos show the entrance to the pass.  The bottom photo is the center of the pass.

Amanu Pass

Amanu Pass

We walked along the wall that follows the pass. 

Matt along the pass

Matt along the pass

Toward the entrance is a surf break where the water was so clear you could see the reef through the waves.

By sheer luck, we ran into the mayor, Francois.  He is the youngest mayor in all of French Polynesia and France!  I believe he is in his late 20’s and he was marvelous.  He also happens to be the nurse on island!

Me and Francois, the Mayor of Amanu

Me and Francois, the Mayor of Amanu

Amanu Fun Photos

Can you see Sugar Shack across the reef and lagoon in the background?

Can you see Sugar Shack?

Can you see Sugar Shack?

Matt taking a break on our walk back to the boat on day 2

Sugar Shack is anchored in the middle of a “C” shaped reef.  It is amazing to see the reef appear during low tide and disappear in high tide.

INSERT 2 COLLAGE OF REEF NEAR ANCHORAGE

Events from this blog post occurred around the 4th week of November, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Double Rainbow

A Journey: Tuamotus to Gambiers Part I

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The prevailing winds in French Polynesia are typically east.  Guess where we need to go?  South East.  We had waited for a good weather window to head south and east from the Tuamotus to the Gambiers.  It is a long passage, about 765nm as the crow flies which means closer to 800-850nm for a sail boat. This journey would take us 6/7 days if all went well.

We left Toau at 1430 in the afternoon with light winds, calm seas, and blue skies.  It was a lovely start.  We quickly got into a groove as we settled into this passage.  Our first night was really nice as the moon was almost full and super bright. 

Underway

Underway

Because we left in the late afternoon our 24hour periods will be funky (so day 2 is still part of the first 24-hour sailing period).

2nd Day – 1st 24 hours

We had 3 fishing lines and a teaser out. Not sure why as we still had a ton of marlin in the freezer.  But Matt is a glutton for punishment.  We got a hit on the smallest rod and reel (30).  Of course, it spooled out and the line broke at the swivel.  Crap!  No big deal, Matt made another lure just like the first one and put the line back out (with tighter tension).

We passed Kauehi and Raraka (two small, uninhabited atolls).  We are making as much “easting” as we can before the wind shifted to the east.  Our goal is to pass most of the islands on their east side if possible.  We did manage to avoid a rather large squall.  And then we were rewarded with a double rainbow!

Double Rainbow

A perfect journey 

Trip Details: 1ST 24 Hour Period

  • Miles sailed: 139nm
  • Max Speed: 9.8kt
  • Average Speed: 5.8kt

3rd Day – 2nd 24 Hours

It is always a bit challenging to change your sleeping habits on a 6/7-day journey like this.  Matt and I take 3-hour shifts.  Which means, he is on for 3 hours, then goes to sleep, while I am on.  Rinse, repeat, rinse repeat.

We got another bite on the small rod/reel but the bugger got away.  At least he left the lure behind.

Another pretty sunset.

And the moon came out to guide us through the night.

Moonrise

Moonrise. A perfect night journey.

We pass several more atolls: Katiu, Makemo, Marutea, Nihiru, Tekokota, and Tauere.

Trip Details: 48 hours

  • Miles Traveled: 142nm
  • Overall, Miles Traveled: 281nm
  • Max Speed: 11.0kt
  • Average Speed: 5.9kt

We ended up dodging squalls all night and most of the morning.  Keeps you busy and on your toes.  We had a decision to make.  The new weather update showed the east winds coming a lot sooner and lighter than anticipated.  We could motor up and around Amanu, sail for 2.5 days and then motor the remaining 1.5 days to Gambier. Or, the other option is to head to Amanu, wait for daylight and hang out at this new to us atoll for the weather to improve.  We decided to go to Amanu.

We slowed the boat down as our instruments were showing a 2200-2400 arrival which is not good.  However, we did not slow it down enough as we arrived at 2400 with just the light from the moon. Our trip details at our arrival outside the pass.

Trip Details: 58 hours

  • Miles Traveled: 55nm
  • Overall, Miles Traveled: 336nm
  • Max Speed: 11.0kt
  • Average Speed: 5.7kt
  • This was 9.5 hours after our 48hr mark

Circling Amanu

Since we could not enter the pass at night, we circled, and circled, and circled.  The big circle is when we first arrived and took us from 0100-0500.  We slowly motored closer to shore to get a look at the narrow pass.  The guestimator showed slack tide at 0824 but when we approached at that time it was not navigable.  So, we circled some more.  The image below shows our creative journey outside the pass.

Circling Amanu waiting for sunrise

Circling Amanu waiting for sunrise.  Journey cut short.

As you enter the lagoon there is a dog leg that you have to avoid by hanging a sharp right.  Easy peazy.  The sun was shing bright showcasing the reef, the tide was not bad and the winds were light.

Entering Amanu Pass

Entering Amanu Pass

Once the tides settled down, we had a beautiful entrance into Amanu’s lagoon.  These photos are from the port side of the boat.

Amanu Pass at slack tide

Amanu Pass at slack tide

The starboard side has the church and main village of the atoll.  A large reef extends beyond the concrete wall which has to be avoided (of course).  We had 2kts of outgoing current as we entered.

Amanu Pass

Amanu Pass

We were greeted by the locals in two different fishing boats, super nice!

Locals welcoming us to Amanu

Locals welcoming us to Amanu

Sticking the Anchor

It took us 3 attempts to stick the anchor and avoid the huge coral heads.  What a pain in the a$$!  We have to float our chain, so it is dropping the anchor, setting it, pulling up the chain (70 meters), placing 7 floats (about every 10 meters), setting it again and swimming on it.  The first time we were too close to two large bommies.  The second time didn’t stick well.  Raise the chain, remove the floats and try again. Third time is a charm.  Ugh, but we are secure and ready for a nap.

We dropped our anchor in 15 meters of water surrounded by bommies (thus the floats).  It is a “c” shape spot with some protection from the wind and fetch.  You can see from the photo that we are not far from the pass or village. (Pass and village top of photo).

Amanu Anchorage

Amanu Anchorage

Our anchor spot at Amanu.

Amanu Anchorage

Amanu Anchorage

Our journey was not complete but we made it to Amanu.  Be sure to check back on 25 February to see “A Journey: Tuamotus to Gambiers Part II” as we finally make it to the Gambiers.

Events from this journey occurred around the 3rd week of November, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Tikehau Anchorage

Tikehau Tranquility

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We visited Tikehau last year and frankly, it was not one of our favorite atolls in the Tuamotus.  However, we did not really give it a fair chance.  The weather was horrid and we ended up hiding inside our boat at one anchorage during most of our stay (blog post 12/2019).  So, we decided to return to Tikehau on our way through the Tuamotus.

After our wonderful sail from the Society Archipelago, we had a smooth entrance through the pass and headed straight for our anchorage.  There is only one channel inside the lagoon which starts at the pass and ends at the village.  The rest of the lagoon is littered with bommies and small motus that pop up in random places.  In order to traverse the lagoon, you have to constantly monitor the charts and have a look out.  The photo below shows Sugar Shack at the pass anchorage (the red arrow), then the channel pink lines with red markers (that look like “i”) down to the village.

Tikehau Navionics Chart

Tikehau Navionics Chart

We ended up anchoring about 1 mile from the village at the first orange anchor. After the channel ended we navigated our way to an anchorage in front of the Pearl Beach Resort Tikehua.  Our friends on Jolly Dogs, Maple, and Moggy were here as well. 

Exploring the Motus

Matt and I had great fun exploring the surrounding motus in search of sea treasures.  Each motu is unique but they all share basic characteristics.  They are fairly flat, covered in coral, little bit of sand, and lots of coconuts.

The first motu we came to actually had this really pretty pinkish sand.  When the sun shone on the sand it would turn maroon, brown, and a little orange.  Really pretty.

In between the motus are little rivers or pools of water that flow from the Pacific to the lagoon.  Top photo shows us at one motu, overlooking the water between to another motu with the boats at anchor behind.

The water inside the Tikehau lagoon is really warm, like bath water.  Which is super fun, but not as refreshing as you’d like on a hot day.

Motu Tohuarei

After a few days at the Pearl Beach Resort anchorage we picked up the hook and headed to a new motu.  Only 3nm away, yet it feels like a new world.    This pretty little spit of land is literally in the middle of the lagoon surrounded by its own reef.

Matt breaks out the drone to give you a bird’s eye perspective.  Truly beautiful.

Tikehau Anchorage

Tikehau Anchorage

We explore the motu and snorkel all over the reef which are teaming with schools of fish and coral.

Blessed with a beautiful sunset each night.

Pass Anchorage

It was hard to leave considering we had this little motu all to ourselves.  However, it was time for us to head to the pass anchorage to prepare for our departure from Tikehau.  We took a new route across the lagoon instead of backtracking.  Sugar Shack have 3 sets of charts and me at the bow as a look out – so why not.

On the way, we passed by another little motu called Motu Mauu which would have been fun to anchor at if we had time.  Super pretty with lots of coral and fish around it.

Always on the look out for the bommies which can be small bits of land sticking out or coral heads just under the surface. The one in the photo was pretty easy to spot, but some are super hard to see if the sun is not just right.

Bommie hiding under the water surface

Bommie hiding under the water surface

7nm later we arrived to the pass anchorage where 9 other boats were located.  So much for the peace and quiet.   The good news is our friends on Hoodoo are here along with a lot of birds!

We enjoy snorkeling the pass and doing slow drifts with the incoming tide.  The pass is full of lots of fish including a huge school of barracudas, tons of puffers, a few eels, and flounders.

We are so glad we came back to Tikehau.  The tranquility of this little atoll (during good weather) was amazing.  The warm waters, friendly people, and pretty motus were wonderful to explore.

Events from this blog post occurred around the 3rd week of November, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.