Category Archives: nonBoat

Nounou at the helm, our captain

Maupiti Fishing with Marlin Star

One of the locals, Nounou, offered to take Matt and I offshore fishing. We were told that the locals harpoon mahi, and catch wahoo, tuna, and marlin between Maupiti and Bora Bora.   We met Nounou a few weeks ago, got his number, and scheduled our outing.  Nounou catches a lot of mahi – check out his Marlin Star Facebook page.

Nounou and his mate picked us up at 0900 with our packed lunch, beverages, and smiles.  He did not waste anytime putting the pedal to the metal.  We sped across the lagoon covering the 2.5 miles in 7-8 minutes.  Gesh this is a rocket on water!

We said a prayer before leaving the pass.  I prayed for safety and no sea sickness but I am sure the boys prayed for fish.  It is a fishing trip after all.  We exited the pass at 30-35kts with little effort – ridiculous.  Then we started the bash toward Bora Bora.

The Boat

Nounou came to pick us up in his superfast 35’ speed boat called Lady Kea.  He has one turbo diesel engine with 340 horse power and a top speed of 40kts!  He fishes daily during the week in this boat and takes his family out on this “faster” boat on the weekends.  Lady Kea is a beautiful orange and yellow boat with logos on the side.

Lady Kea

Lady Kea

The Captain

The captain / driver sits inside a well and moves a metal pipe or pvc tube right and left to steer.  The throttle is where is right hand is and his left hand is on the steering mechanism.

Nounou at the helm, our captain

Nounou at the helm, our captain

Shots of our fearless captain, Nounou.

Nounou, our fearless captain

Nounou, our fearless captain

The Equipment

The boat is outfitted with (2) fishing rods each with 130 reels.  These reels are monstrous.  To put it into perspective, we have a 50 reel on our boat and that is huge for us.

There is a large assortment of lures on either side of the boat.  They put the port line out really far and the starboard line closer.

To catch Mahi Mahi they search out the birds.  We found several flocks of birds during the course of our trip.  Our captain and crew would spot the birds several miles out and we would race toward them.  Nounou would circle the mahi which swim near the surface while feeding. Then he would expertly throw the harpoon at the Mahi hoping for a catch.  We unfortunately only had one opportunity to do this and he got away.  Photo of harpoon.

Mahi harpoon

Mahi harpoon

Heading out to sea

We zoomed out about 18-29 miles toward Bora Bora which was into the wind, waves, and sea.  Not a pleasant experience.  Going 35-40kts, top speed, bashing hard while trying to hold on was difficult.  I literally had a volcan death grip with both hands and both feet wedged wherever I could stick them.  After about an hour of holding on we turned and went side to the waves.  Slightly better.

The little bonito (tuna)

The first fish to catch our lure was a small bonito tuna.  It was a relief to catch him as we had been trolling for over an hour and a half with nothing.  He’s small, but will be tasty.

Fishing: Bonito tuna

Fishing: Bonito tuna

We would switch between looking for mahi and fishing for marlin and wahoo.  They used the lures for the marlin and wahoo.  They used the harpoon for the mahi.

The Marlin

After another several hours we landed a beautiful, fat marlin!  With two people, a fast boat, and the perfect execution, they reeled in a 60 kilo (135lb) marlin!

Nounou will clean and cut the fish and give it to the local school to feed the kids!  This baby will feed lots of kids for awhile.

Marlin! Now that is fishing

Marlin! Now that is fishing

We headed back to the boat around 1500. 6 hours later.  Every inch of my body ached.  Holding on, clenching every muscle, falling a time or two and being tossed around the fiberglass boat did a number to my body.  With several bruises, bumps, scrapes and blisters we climbed back onto Sugar Shack.

A quick rinse in the lagoon to get the 20 layers of salt off us and then a fresh water rinse.  Matt cleaned the bonito which Nounou graciously gifted us.  We called it a day, took some advil, made a drink and crashed on the bean bags.

By the way, we never took a sip of our drinks or a nibble of food.  We were too busy holding on, fishing, and looking for fish.

This fishing excursion happened on 31 August.  Our blog posts run 6/8 weeks behind our adventures. 

Celebration of Life: Eddie

We met the boat “September AM” in Tahuata a few months ago.  Onboard was Barbara and Harry and their two kids Eddie and Amelie.  Super sweet and amazing family.  Eddie and Amelie are both musicians and are very passionate about sharing their love of music.  Eddie was brilliant, compassionate, inquisitive, kind, helpful, and a truly genuine soul.

Several months after we met them, we ran into them in Papeete Marina where I introduced them to my sister.  However, we left shortly thereafter to begin the Konis Tour.  September AM had decided to move over to Mo’orea for the weekend which is only a short 25nm sail.  When they dropped the hook in Oponohu Bay tragedy struck. 

Tragic Accident

Cruisers swim on their anchor – it is a common practice and frankly, an expected one.  What does that mean?  After you drop the hook, you jump in the water to make sure the anchor is buried and not encumbered by anything (bommies, pipes, etc…).  Notably, this helps ensure your boat is secured and safe and protects the environment.

Eddie, a 14-year old son, brother, and crew member of September AM jumped into the water to check their anchor.  It is something he has done hundreds of times in dozens of anchorages.  He was a mere 2 meters away from the boat when a rented, speeding, motor boat, driven by a distracted tourist ran over Eddie. 

One, the tour boat company does not require any special license to rent or drive the boat.  Two, the tourist was unfamiliar with boating protocols (you don’t drive that close to anchored boats) or speed in those areas.  Three, the driver was not paying attention to the waters, but was chatting with a female companion.  In other words, a cataclysmic accident.  As a result, the Polynesian government opened a wrongful death investigation 5 days after the accident.  Not sure why it took 5 days to open. Hopefully, justice will be served.

Eddie did not survive this accident, but the memory of his beautiful soul will live on forever.

Celebration of Life: Eddie

The family decided to have a celebration of life Polynesian surfer style.  What does that mean?  People gather on the water, form a circle, hold hands, say prayers, share memories, and the release flowers into the sea.  This is called a Polynesian Paddle Out.

There was one small problem.  The family was located in Papeete, Tahiti. Cruisers everywhere wanted to celebrate with them.  So, we spread the word on Social Media, local media, and SSB nets.

We asked that everyone share photos from their celebration so the family could see the overwhelming show of love and support.  It is truly a blessing to see the cruising community come together for those in need. 

Photos from Maupiti (where Matt, Yannel, Missy and I) were located

We had a few local ladies from the church say a prayer and sing a beautiful Polynesian song just before releasing the flowers.

Cruisers made floral reefs, floral necklaces, boats, floats, and arrangements.  All dedicated during the ceremony.

Papeete had the largest crowd of well over 100 people. Respecting the social distancing and wearing masks.

People held Celebrations at:

  • Sandwich Bay, England
  • Papeete, French Polynesia
  • Mo’orea, French Polynesia (Cook’s Bay and Oponohu Bay)
  • Raiatea, French Polynesia (two anchorages)
  • Maupiti, French Polynesia
  • Huahine, French Polynesia (South and North Bay)
  • Taha’a, French Polynesia
  • Tahuata, Marquesas, French Polynesia
  • Marshall Islands
  • Isla San Marcos, Mexico
  • San Blas, Guna Yala, Panama
  • Bocas, Panama
  • United Kingdom
  • Malolo Lailai Island, Fiji
  • Bay of Virgins, New Zealand
  • South Coast France
  • Marazion, Cornwall
  • New Caldonia
  • Liencres, Spain
  • Hermosa Beach, California
  • San Diego
  • San Francisco
  • Seattle

In addition to the celebration of life, the family had the casket designed and drawn by a local tattoo artist.  – Mana’o Tattoo Studio Tahiti who stepped up at the last minute to create this amazing tribute on his casket.  The symbols and designs represent Eddie’s life, dreams, and interests.

Equally important, the family created a Just Giving Page to help raise $15,000 to transport the casket and his body back home to the U.K.  The family will use any additional monies to create a fund to help children with education and music.  Please contribute.

Together with the support of the local community, their friends and family and the cruising community, the family was able to raise enough money (15,000 euros) to bring Eddie’s body home.

Here Is a link to the video of the TV interview in French Polynesia

Instead of focusing on this horrific accident, we are rejoicing in his life and the fact that the cruising community came together for this family.

Remembering Eddie…after all it is about loving thy neighbor. In the hope that we all can change, be aware, be careful, and respect the water.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

Third Millennium Cross

Monuments of Coquimbo

Coquimbo is peppered with beautiful monuments all over town.  Specifically, the the Millennium Cross, the Mosque, the Mirador, Forte, and fresh markets.

CRUZ DEL TERCER MILENIO – “THE MILLENNIUM CROSS”

The Cruz del Tercer Milenio is Spanish for “Third Millennium Cross”.  This 93-meter-high Monumental Cross is made of concrete. It includes a museum, temple, bell tower, park and stations of the cross. The cross is located a top a hill overlooking the two bays and sits 197 meters above sea level.  Construction began in 1999 and it was completed in 2001.  Notably, this is considered the tallest monument in South America.

  • Cruz del Tercer Mlenio is supported by three bases which represent the Holy Trinity.
  • 10 columns represent the 10 commandments.
  • 12 pillars represent the 12 apostles.
  • It only took 10 months to build the main structure.
  • The monument commemorates the 2000 birthday of Christ.
  • The entire structure was built between two large rocks.
Third Millennium Cross

Third Millennium Cross

You enter the temple through ornate, massive, carved metal doors.  Once inside you are immediately struck by the beautiful simplicity of the temple.  Until, that is you look up to the alter where a vision of gold twinkles in the light and captures your attention. Seeing that from afar draws you into the temple.

Entrance to Cruz

Entrance to Cruz del Tercer Milenio

The bell tower was constructed with a delicate metal alloy that allows it to reproduce in high fidelity, 9 musical notes of the scale. It is operated with an Italian mechanism which can perform over 400 melodies.

Bell Tower of Cruz del Tercer Milenio

Bell Tower of Cruz del Tercer Milenio

The stations of the cross:

"<yoastmark

"<yoastmark

"<yoastmark

You take an elevator to the arms of the cross where you have a 360-degree view of Coquimbo.  The arrows show you where Sugar Shack is anchored.

View from the T of the Cruz

View from the T of the Cruz

PLAYA HERRADURA – Mirador

Playa Herradura has a few nice lookouts, or miradors.  We took a walk up to one of them and were pleasantly surprised to find many beautiful sculptures.  Coupled with the view, these skinny sculptures provided interesting stories and picturesque photos.

Mirador Playa Herradura

Mirador Playa Herradura

MOSQUE OF COQUIMBO – CENTRO MOHAMMED VI para el DIALOGO DE LAS CIVILIZACIONS

The Mohammed VI Center for the Dialogue of Civilizations, better known as the Mosque , is a cultural center. The minaret of this mosque is a scaled replica of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech , Morocco .

Its construction began in 2004 with the help of artisans and builders from Morrocco. The mosque was inaugurated on March 14, 2007.  If you would like to read more on the Mosque, here is a really interesting blog that goes into detail on the history of the Mosque.

Unfortunately, the Mosque was closed for renovations so we could not go inside.  With this in mind, we were only able to walk around the outside.

Mosque

Mosque

FUERTE COQUIMBO

Also known as Fuerte Lambert, this former 19th century fort offers picturesque views.  Originally built in 1865 to guard the entrance during the war with Spain.  The unique, brick fort was named after Carlos Lambert who reconstructed it in 1879 to protect his ports against possible attacks from the Peruvian Navy during the Pacific War.

Fort Lambert no longer has an operational role militarily, but it is a popular tourist destination because of the views it provides across the Bay of Coquimbo.  There is not much to see at this forte except a few good photo ops.  With this in mind, this fort might have been a good replica of the original fort prior to the renovations.  Now it sort of looks fake and too modern.

Forte de Coquimbo

Forte de Coquimbo

Notice the pirate tourist ship in the background – talk about nice timing.  It is important to realize that they threw away the key.

Forte de Coquimbo

Forte de Coquimbo

PIRATE SHIPS – AHOY!

At the wharf, they have several pirate ships outfitted with all the trimmings including live pirates.  They will sheppard you around the bay in search of gold and other valuable treasures. Evidently, they are “real” pirates as you can see them in the above photos while we were at the Forte de Coquimbo.

Muelle Morgran Pirate Ship

Muelle Morgran Pirate Ship

TERMINAL PESQUERO

Large fish market brimming with fisherman selling their daily catch.  Breathing through your mouth is a must as the fish smells accost your senses like running into a brick wall.   Despite the smell we forged ahead to try to identify the huge variety of fish.

The fish come in off the boats and are loaded into trays.  Next, they are cleaned and hauled into the fish market to sell.  In some cases, they are cleaned inside the market while others are sold right off the dock.  An unidentified delicacy can be seen at the bottom left photo.  It looked like a hard piece of coral. Seeing that it is a crustacean we shied away.  They gently cut off the tip and then scoop out this red gloppy thing to get to the meat.  No, we did not try it.

Terminal Pesquero Coquimbo

Terminal Pesquero Coquimbo

There were several forgotten boats on the coast…always makes you wonder what the heck happened. From now on this will be known as the bird perch…

Fishing boat that has seen better days

Fishing boat that has seen better days

Ship wreck

Ship wreck

Feria de Abastos de Coquimbo

Fresh fruit and veggie market