Category Archives: nonBoat

Caldera

Chile Ports: Caldera, Calderilla, Salado

We received a proper send off from the lobos, dolphins and birds as we left the Chile Port of Antofagasta.  We are headed to Caldera which is about 200nm away.  The journey should take us 1.5 days with some wind even though the current and waves are going against us.

Arturo, from Club de Yates, led us out of our first Chile Port and through the foamy mess (see below top left photo.  We had lots of lobos sightings along the way.  It was super cute because they pop their head out of the water, look around, dip under, and pop up again.  They do this in a circle of about 5-6 other lobos.

The landscape is beautiful despite not having any greenery.  Rolling hills in various shades of tans and browns.

We managed to catch three of the same type of fish. We released them all as we could not identify them, let us know if you know what type of fish these are – maybe part of the tuna family?

Unknown Fish

Unknown Fish

You’ll notice the landscape is really barren and dry.  We are definitely in the dry zone.  They may get 1” of rain per year, but not every year.  It is strange to me to see beaches near the desert but that is exactly what you see when you come to Northern Chile.

We had zero wind for this trip and glassy water conditions during the day.  At night we had swirly 1m waves, but it was a full on motor the entire way.  Matt did a wonderful live blog on 27 January, so I won’t repeat his beautiful words.  Check it out here.  We cut off one engine and slowed down the other engine so we could arrive during daylight.  After 218 nm, 45 hours and 20 minutes we arrived in Caldera.

The Chile Port of Caldera bay is nice and large.  We anchored near the Club de Yachts.  As we watched our anchor, many yacht club members came by (kayak, boats) to say “hello” and welcome us to town.  We of course found more lobos.  The interesting thing is the area by the beach was set against huge, beautiful rock formations which gave the entire area a unique and stunning look.

Club de Yates Caldera

Club de Yates Caldera

We enjoyed this small town even though we only stayed for one day.  We checked in with the Armada, had a not so tasty lunch at La Chispa de Dona Luisa, and walked around.  The yacht club and the beaches were pretty busy, but that is not surprising as it is Sunday, family day.

Most shops were closed, but we stumbled across the Caldera Railway Station which was commissioned in 1850.  This train terminal had the first train depart in South America on 25 December 1851.

We also came across a statue of San Pedro Caldera, lots of funny looking manikins, a hungry shark, an old ship perched on to of a tourist building roof, and a crooked Caledera sign,

Sightseeing in Caldera

Sightseeing in Caldera

We found the local markets, hardware stores, and “tourist” traps.  Mostly this tiny town offered beach toys and stuff at the local tiendas.  We celebrated our new town with a beer.

Matt enjoying a Kuntsman Beer

Matt enjoying a Kuntsman Beer

We motored over to the next bay, Puerto Caladerilla for our second night.  The town was really, really small and we did not see any places to dock the dinghy.  So, we enjoyed a nice evening onboard.

Main photo of me next to Caldera colorful sign

CALDERILLA

We left late in the afternoon and were headed to the Chile Port of Calderilla which is a small bay less than 10nm from Caldera.  We made a light dinner and called it an early night.  The bay was relatively calm, very quiet and peaceful.  We got up early the next morning to continue heading south.  As we left the bay, we grabbed a few shots of the rocky coast.

Rocky Chilean Coastline

Rocky Chilean Coastline

BAHIA SALADO

It was another windless day but at least it was not on our nose.  We were able to let the jib out for a few short stints which gave us an extra knot or two.  Super calm seas, blue skies, and lots of lobos playing in the water.

The Chile Port of Bahia Salado is a very isolated bay.  There are 5 structures that appear to be housing compounds for the mine that operates just over the hill.  They could also be summer homes, but there is literally nothing around except these compounds and the mine.  How far do they have to go to get bread or milk or beer?

Bahia Salado - Housing Compounds

Bahia Salado – Housing Compounds

After we finished dinner, around 8pm, we watched two guys in kayaks make their way from shore to our boat.  Somewhere half way between, one fell overboard.  At this point they were about ¼ mile from shore.  As I finished up the dishes, Matt said they were getting closer.  Interesting.  I peeked and it appeared that one guy was pulling the other guy who was still in the water.  The guy in the water was pulling his kayak while holding on to his friend’s kayak.  Poor thing it was freezing outside and in the water!

They asked for help to bring them back to shore. I wish I would have grabbed my camera as it was the funniest image.  We tied one kayak with the guy still in it to Sweetie.  The other guy jumped in the dinghy as we then tied his kayak to the back of Sweetie.  He was in a t-shirt and shorts when he should have been in a full wetsuit.  He was shivering in the dink while his friend was having the time of his life riding the kayak as Sweetie towed him to shore.  It was hysterical.

Sunset in Bahia Salado

Sunset in Bahia Salado

Miles traveled from Calderilla to Bahia Salado 38.6 which took us about 6.5 hours at an average speed of 5.6kts.

Me at the top of Cerro San Cristobal

Santiago: Explorations

Matt and I are applying for a long-stay French Polynesian visa in Chile.  Sounds a little crazy for an American to apply for a French visa in Chile, but it is the best we could do.  There is a French consulate in Santiago, which is where we headed for our interview. Subsequently, being in a new city gave us a great opportunity to be tourist.

Send me a message/email if you are interested in learning about the requirements and procedures necessary for applying.  It is too complicated to blog about (and a little drab).  We scheduled our interview appointment after we gathered all of the necessary paperwork, photos, and background checks.  No easy feat being on a boat away from your files.

Santiago is a 16-hour bus ride or a 100-minute plane ride.  We flew, arrived early, checked into Casona Loreto Hotel, dropped our backpacks off and put on our explorer hats.  We only had 3.5 days to go on our scavenger hunt – so we hit the ground running.

Here are a few of the highlights of our scavenger hunt…some really cool places!

MERCARDO CENTRAL

Our first stop was Mercardo Central which was completed in 1874.  It was a bit overwhelming with each eatery vying for your attention, tummy, and wallet.  In other words, 3-4 people were standing outside yelling in Spanish to get you to come inside.  We understood about 1/2 of what they said. We decided to eat at the first place we saw and it was pretty darn tasty.

Marcardo Central

Marcardo Central

We stumbled across their version of “local” fresh market.  I say that only because it was enormous.  Not just one building of fresh goods, but multiple buildings spanning blocks!  It was spectacular!  We had not seen berries (blue berries, blackberries, raspberries) in ages.  And huge bunch of celery for decent prices (not $5 per stock).  We also found a flower mart, which had the most beautiful arrangements.  They had an interesting technique where they pulled back the petals of the roses.  As a result, you are exposed an extra giant rose.

Santiago Flower Mart

Santiago Flower Mart

We were staying near Bario Bellavista, which was not quite “central” but close to the metro and close enough to everything where we could walk.  Santiago had a lot of graffiti, but I gathered that they were proud of it and in fact considered it art.  It was everywhere.  Some of it was beautiful and some of it was “tagging” to me.  Consequently, it gave you something to admire as you walked down the bustling streets.

During our many, many miles of walking, we passed through huge, lush parks peppered with huge, flowing fountains and sculptures.

One of many fountains in the parks lining the streets

One of many fountains in the parks lining the streets

Lovers, lovers, lovers everywhere.  Santiago seemed to be brimming with lovers.  They kissed in the parks, on the benches, in the streets, in the mail, everywhere. Not little pecks of kisses, but deep, passionate kisses.

COSTANERA CENTRAL MALL & GRAN TORRE SANTIAGO:

We of course, made it to the local mall.  I only say that as the largest grocery store and hardware store are attached to the mall.  The mall can easily be found as it is attached to the tallest building in Latin America, the Gran Torre Santiago.  The building is 300 meters high and 62 floors.  The construction was very controversial for aesthetic reasons and the cause of city congestion.  Check out this site on Mirador del Costanera Center.  We did not have time to do the look out, so we saved it as an action item on our return visit to Santiago.

Tallest building in Latin America

Tallest building in Latin America Gran Torre

The Costanera Center Mall is unlike malls we’ve seen to far.  It is between 3-5 stories tall and includes a “Happyland” amusement park for kids, name brand stores (from U.S.), and oh so much more.  It was awe-inspiring.

CERRO ST. LUCIA:

Cerro St. Lucia is one of the most visited public parks as it is one of the most recognizable icons of the capital.  The hill is a remnant of a volcano 15 million years old and has a height of 69 meters.  The 63,000 square mere park is adorned with a stunning church, sanctuary, and ornate facades, stairways, and fountains.

Cerro St. Lucia in Santiago

Cerro St. Lucia in Santiago

CERRO SAN CRISTOBAL:

Cerro San Cristobal is an urban, enormous park in the city which contains numerous historical attractions and activities.  Main attractions include Mirador de la Virgen del Cerro San Cristobal, el Zoologico National de Chile, el historico Funicular y el teleferico.

We did not have time to do the Zoo or the Funicular.  Maybe on our next visit?

The Funicular dates back to 1925 and is a fun way to get up the hill.  It is a 500-meter journey with three stations.  We decided we wanted to walk the trail as opposed to sitting in luxury little trolley.  What were we thinking????

Funicular-del-Cerro-San-Cristobal-AHM

Funicular-del-Cerro-San-Cristobal-AHM

We passed through the main entrance (via the castle, see photo below) and started our ascension straight up hill – about 1.3 km.  The walk sure provided some amazing views.  You can see the Mirador de la Virgen in the background in 2 of the 4 photos.

Walking up Cerro San Cristobal

Walking up Cerro San Cristobal

Matt was like the little energizer bunny, but I had to stop along the way to rest my weary legs.

Matt and I walking up Certo San Cristobal

Matt and I walking up Certo San Cristobal

We were surprised to find a lot of vendors, eateries, and shops at the top of the hill.  It is, after all, one of the greatest tourist destinations in Santiago.

Top of Cerro San Cristobal

Top of Cerro San Cristobal

CAMINO DE LAS SIETE PALABRAS:

At the top of Cerro San Cristobal you will find  Camino de las siete palabras (Way of the seven words) which was blessed by the cardinal in 2015.  On this pilgrim one gets the image of the immaculate conception at the summit. The Way of the Seven Words is the new ramp with which you can access the temple of the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception of San Cristóbal Hill.

Way of the Seven

Way of the Seven Words

MIRADOR DE LA VIRGEN & SANCTUARIO IMMACULADA CONCEPTION:

The Virgen of Cerro San Cristoball can be seen from the entire city.  Installed on the summit of Cerro San Cristobal in 1908 is part of the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception.  The statue stands 14 meters high and the pedestal for which the Virgen Statue stands is 8.3 meters high.  In addition, there is a small chapel in which his holiness John Paul II prayed and blessed the city of Santiago in 1987.

Virgen of San Cristobal

Virgen of San Cristobal

Throughout the entire area, they piped in peaceful, hymns sung in Spanish, acapella.   At the foot of the statue is an amphitheater for holding masses or other religious ceremonies.  When we visited, they had a beautiful, life size nativity.

Nativity at the Virgen of San Cristobal

Nativity at the Virgen of San Cristobal

TELEFERICO DE SANTIAGO:

Teleferico de Santiago provides a fun cable-car ride through the sky over the bustling city of Santiago.  With breathtaking views, you get an idea of the enormous size of the city that is home to over 5 million residents.

TELEFERICO DE SANTIAGO

TELEFERICO DE SANTIAGO

After we excited our titillating ride, we ended up back at the Costanera Central Mall.  And continued our exploration.

We hit all of the main districts of Santiago, most of the main attractions, and put in over 30 walking miles in 3.5 days.

Our interviews at the French Consulate went well.  We only had one appointment and technically you need one appointment per person.  However, today, we we able to submit both of our applications under one appointment. As an added bonus, we got to keep our passports.  Passports are typically sent with the applications, which can take up to 5 weeks to process.  You never want to be in a foreign country without your passport.  Now we wait….

Restaurants and Eateries in Santiago:

Our favorite place to eat was in Patio Bellavista.  This is a lively, bustling, 2-story square with dozens of restaurants to chose from.  We also enjoyed eating and drinking in Bellavisa where they have well over a hundred bars and restaurants on and around Pino Nono area.  Some of our favorite places were “The Backyard”, Buena Barra, Galinda, Agua de Chocolate.

Patio Bellavisa

Patio BellavisaTele

We stopped in a cool DJI store. We both have been wanting a drone, but it falls under the “want” category and not the “need to have” area.  Someday….Today, we admired the latest and greatest toys.

DJi Drone Headquarters

DJi Drone Headquarters

Additional Fun Photos:

Accessible Metro runs everywhere in Santiago

Matt resting with a BIG beer

Matt resting with a BIG beer

Pino Nono Funicular Station

Pino Nono Funicular Station

Super Funny Bathroom Signs

Super Funny Bathroom Signs

Talk about walking the “$hit” out of you….based on Apple Health

  • Day 1: Walked 6.6 miles, 15,784 steps, and 57 floors
  • On Day 2: Walked 10.3 miles, 25,714 steps and 49 floors
  • Day 3: Walked another 9.2 miles, 22,633 steps and 161 floors
Quepos and Sunset

Amigos de Costa Rica

One of the blessings about being in the same place for an extended period of time is that you get to establish new friendships.  We have made a lot of new amigos de Costa Rica.

RumpleTeazer

Yep, that is the name of Sugar Shack’s sister boat that has been on the hard with us and is now located in the marina.  Her owner, Keith is from the UK and is very lovely.  He has sailed all over the world, around the Cape, and landed in Costa Rica about 2 months ago.  He is trying to sell his 43′ Catana and has been doing a lot of work to get her ready for the survey.

In between our boat projects we tend to meet up at the Captain’s Lounge in the marina where there is good wifi, AC, water, bathrooms, and snacks.  He mentioned that he was taking the new owner out for a sea trial and asked us if we wanted to tag along.  It was such a sweet gesture as he knows how hard it is to be land locked.

We had a wonderful day out on the water, got enough wind to put up full sails and just tooled around the inner bay.  Matt and I tried to be as useful as possible and worked the fenders, dock lines, raised the main, trimmed and tacked the sails and generally talked up Catana boats.

RumpleTeazer on Sea Tral

RumpleTeazer on Sea Trial

Freya – 65′ Sport Fishing Boat

We met “Freya’s” crew, a 65′ sport fishing yacht at the apartment as their boat is on the hard as well.  Patrick took us out for a Sunday Fun day since he had a car.  We drove to Domincal for a great lunch, some whale watching, and an afternoon out of Quepos.  We’ve had several nights of debauchery and truly enjoy his epic stories and jokes.

There were lots of surfers trying to catch the perfect wave.  We were told that this is a pretty challenging surf area with the rip tides, rocky shore, and big waves.  Of course I zoomed in for the photo so you can’t tell how big the wave actually is.

Surfer in Domincal

Surfer in Domincal

We headed back to Quepos and arrived just in time for sunset.  What a great way to be welcomed back into town.

Quepos and Sunset

Quepos and Sunset

Quepos and Sunset

Quepos and Sunset

Little did we know, Patrick is a great chef.  He decided to cook steak and pork chops along with roasted tomatoes, asparagus and rice.  It was totally delicious and we are fast becoming good amigos.

Patrick's Amazing Dinner

Patrick’s Amazing Dinner

Quepos and Manuel Antonio are small towns so we often see our vendors and friends out and about as well….

  • Dorit, Gizelle, and Reina from Manuel Antonio Estates (they work at the apartment where we are staying)
  • Aracelio and his team from AG Marine
  • Justin, James, and Carter from Marina Pez Vela
  • Ben White from Bristol