Realtime Passage to Galapagos #02

30 Hours in, still going and going. All is well, ran out of wind this morning for a bit and since we are impatient we fired up the engines and kept moving down the path. Christine captured a beautiful sunrise and rainbow, at one point you could almost see your reflection in the water as it was very glassy due to the lack of wind.
Breakfast sammiches and some fresh fruits that we have to finish before arriving the big G, as they are very strict about what you can have on board when they inspect the vessel. Since its pretty uneventful, we are doing some cleaning and few boat projects to pass the time. Got our media library all hooked up, so we can stream movies and music from the entire library without having to load on to iThingies to play. The selection on my iPod was getting old after being the only thing we had to listen to in the yard the past few months, even if it has 40+Gb of music. Figured out how to get the Autopilot to do “wind vane” mode, just needed another commissioning step so we are now free to set the sails and see where the wind direction changes take us.
Christine got some interior projects done, and some much needed cleaning of items that got extremely dirty in the yard. And got one of our rain blockers installed to help with the rain storm that we just sailed under and found some decent wind for about an hour. We maxed out at 9.9kn of boat speed to weather in 20knots of breeze. Its now calmed back down to 10knots of wind and we are doing around 6kn with an apparent wind angle of 32 degrees and rocking out to 1980s ballads. Which is your favorite 80s ballad? White Snake is playing right now.
Keep on Keeping on. 525 miles to go.
At 11/4/2018 @ 6:57 PM Our position: 06°34.64’N, 085°00.64’W Traveling 6.2 heading 200T
Google says we are here www.google.com/maps/place/6.57733,-85.01067
At 11/4/2018 @ 6:57 PM Our position: 06°34.64’N, 085°00.64’W Traveling 6.2 heading 200T
Google says we are here www.google.com/maps/place/6.57733,-85.01067

Realtime Passage to Galapagos #01

20 Hours in and all is good. After a delayed departure from Golfito, customs and port Authority took most of the morning, the after noon rains which started early at noon. We stayed one more night in the tranquil albeit rainy anchorage and set off this morning at about 6am. Motored out of Golfito and Golfo Dulce as there wasn’t much wind or waves around. Just a few whales cruising the bay making cool water spouts as the came to he surface. The forecasted wind directions were off by more than 100 degrees in direction so when we cleared the mouth we were able to head almost due west instead of the planned route of more south which hopefully will work out with further wind direction changes. So far winds have been light, maxed out at 10kt and waves pretty small.
Sun was out all day, so we spent time on the shady side of the sails to stay cool and not get sunburnt on the first day out. Caught one small Spanish Mackerel, let him go. A pod of silly dolphins came by to show off some fantastic leaping antics, had not seen that many aerials from dolphins in the wild before.
We had a Brazilian staple of Feijoada with a Jason’s Deli twist, served over baked potato instead of rice. Turned out quite tasty and perfect dinner to start the night shifts.
Just after dark the winds abated to almost nothing, we tried to adjust our direction to keep the sails full, but ended up giving up and rolling in the head sail (jib) for an hour or so before weather started to sprinkle and bring some 7knot winds back.
One fun ship n ship crossing, a Dole banana boat had to duck another container ship. That duck maneuver encroached on our path, so we turned a bit to give the Big Banana Boat some more room, which eventually turned back on his course after passing behind the other cargo ship. Of course it was all in the dark so just watching lights in front of the boat, thank goodness for AIS and tracking of those vessels it was easy to figure out what was happening.
Keep on Keeping on. 588 miles to go.
At 11/4/2018 @ 7:02 AM Our position: 07°31.08’N, 084°32.72’W Traveling 5.8 heading 249T
Google says we are here www.google.com/maps/place/7.51800,-84.54533
At 11/4/2018 @ 7:02 AM Our position: 07°31.08’N, 084°32.72’W Traveling 5.8 heading 249T
Google says we are here www.google.com/maps/place/7.51800,-84.54533

Matt walking along the Reto Mae Hike

Reto MAE Hike

Liming the days away as landlubbers is hard for us.  We miss the water, we miss the motion of the ocean, and we miss our home.  As we try to resolve our lightning strike claim, we wait…and wait.  So, we try to pass the time with hikes like Reto Mae Hike.

One Sunday, Matt and I decided to go on a exploration.  We had a general idea of where we wanted to end up but we weren’t sure how to get there. We walked into town, behind the marina to a beautiful little park.  Don’t you love the free gym / exercise equipment?

Paradero Park

Paradero Park

We knew there was a trail that led to the beaches, but we did not know what it was called.  Later, found ourselves on the Reto MAE Hike.  We did not plan to take this hike, but we stumbled upon it and it seemed to go in the direction of the beach.

History of Reto MAE Hike

A couple of years ago, Manuel Antonio introduced a new extreme race to Costa Rica: The Reto MAE. The acronym ‘MAE’ stands for ‘Manuel Antonio Extreme’, and it quickly rose to become one of the country’s most challenging races.

The Retro MAE Hike is a 10-kilometer trail that winds along the dramatic coastline between Quepos and Manuel Antonio national park, snaking through the rain forest, over bluffs, along cliffs, and visiting seven beaches along the way

The hikers start the Reto Mae hike in Manuel Antonio and end up at the marina.   However, our route was the exact opposite as we started at the marina and ended up somewhere in Manuel Antonio.

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking trail

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking trail

The Trail:

The trail started on a small, single, dirt path and we quickly came upon a fallen tree that we scurried over.  Along the path we found some guides.  These two dogs stayed with us for several miles.

It was a lovely trail, albeit a bit muddy since it had rained a lot the night before.  Everything was green and glistening.    The trail had several overlooks to beaches below, but we could not find the paths down.

We continued on and caught the trail after losing it – we came to a river crossing and debated whether or not the trail crossed the river or went around it.  We went around the river to look for the trail as opposed to getting wet. Later found out that we should have gone through the river.

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking Trail

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking Trail

Ronnie’s Place for a Reward:

We ended up at Ronnie’s Place and ordered a beer and Fresca.  The beverages were expensive, but they had a “captured” market.

Several of the trees were shedding bark. I had never seen anything like it, so beautiful.  See above photo.

We were exhausted.  Even though we wanted to make it to Playa Biesanz we were going to have to do it another day.

Return to Reto MAE a Few Weeks Later:

Fast forward, we decided to try to make it all the way to Playa Biesanz.  We tried to do the Reto Mae hike and take it across the river this time.

These crazy beach goers were blocking our trail.

Cows blocking the Reto Mae tral

Cows blocking the Reto Mae tral

Shoe Surgery On the Run

We were able to go around them and continued up the hill, down a muddy path and POW – my flip flop exploded.  Bummer.  Luckily, we had some line with us so Matt was able to give me a temporary fix and we continued on.

Blown flip flop with repair

Blown flip flop with repair

We were not heading in the right direction, so we hopped off the cow path and headed up hill across the grassy field.  It led to a tall barb wire fence that stopped us cold.  We walked along the fence until we came upon an “opening” that we squeezed through.

Now, we are on a decent dirt trail, continuing up only to encounter a huge security fence with a young lady on the other side.  I decided the friendly route was the way to go.  We weren’t sure who was on the public side.

Trespassers

We discovered we were on private property owned by a rancher which explained the cows.  There was a small opening under the fence, that we belly crawled through.  We are now covered in dirt, mud, and leaves. But we carried on through a pretty resort called Tulemar Resort.

We cooled off for a bit, before hitting Howard trail where we encountered a small waterfall.  Sweet, a quick opportunity to clean up and cool off.

Water falls at Tulemar Resort

Water falls at Tulemar Resort

The Animals

The wildlife came out to greet us – we found an Agouti which is a cross between a rabbit and a squirrel and a few monkeys.

Agouti and Monkeys at Tulemar Resort

Agouti and Monkeys at Tulemar Resort

We hiked up and down hills, through fields, rivers, beaches, over trees and rocks, and under fences.  We finally made it to Manuel Antonio, but the elusive Playa Biesanz is still calling us – so maybe another time.  Our health app logged 5.2 miles and 144 flights!

Reto MAE Hike

Reto MAE Hike

Cold Beer, Pizza, and this Amazing View

We stopped for lunch at La Lambretta, mostly for the view, cold beverage and pizza.  They had a local IPA called Grizzly and Matt said it was the best IPA he has had all year.  I think it is the only one he has had, but either way he was happy.

La Lambretta Pizzeria

La Lambretta Pizzeria

Reto Mae Hike

We will have to come back to explore the beaches further, perhaps with a better map?  Or perhaps we will wonder again just to see if we can get lost.