Passage to Hao #02

Awesome day, couldn’t ask for better weather. Wait, that is NOT what the forecast said! We actually found enough wind to turn off the engine this morning. The wind was keeping a steady 8 knots of breeze, shifting around a bit, but still pretty nice as there was no sea state. An extremely comfortable day sailing. Could almost be lake conditions except we did cover lots of miles at 6-7 knots most of the day. With some of the wind shifts we had to adjust the sails to get back on course of course. 🙂
Had a Sunday big breakfast of bacon, hash browns and eggs that hit the spot after the morning nap, recovering from the late night shifts.
We had a little pizza party before we left our friends behind and there were some left over fish cakes, that we are going to devour for dinner. Smells yummy as they are warming up just now.
Will probably have to run the generator a bit this eve, as we have been making water most of the day and the solar panels are shaded by the sails. Had thought the wind was going to lay down and we’d be back running with an engine on. Hopefully the wind continues on.
Cheers, all good on aboard, cruising along.
298 of 452 miles left to go. [realtime]
At 5/20/2019 @ 2:03 AM UTC Our position: 21°21.05’S, 137°06.31’W Traveling 7.4 heading 301T
Google says we are here www.google.com/maps/place/-21.35083,-137.10517
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Passage to Hao #01

So long Gambiers.
We made some great friends and hung out with the locals like we were family. Learned the fish we CAN eat, spear fished a few. Caught lobsters at low tide, explored the pearl farms snorkeled, paddle boarded, hiked miles, fought for supplies from the supply ship, anchored in crowded and isolated bays. Sad to leave and move on but there is more to see.
There is virtually no wind or waves in our forecast so we are motoring, we did get 10 knots of wind under one dark cloud that gave us a nice boost. The best part of motoring is that the batteries and water tanks will be completely full when we arrive. The huge full moon is awesome night light.
We should be in Hao in about 3 days at our conservative engine speed for fuel consumption, then about a week there exploring before heading to crowded Tahiti.
All good on board, main sail is up, we rolled the jib when the wind dropped to 2 knots.
Would love to post pictures but the internet was definitely not up to the task, but we will do so when we encounter to good WiFi.
409 of 452 miles left to go. [realtime]
At 5/19/2019 @ 4:45 AM UTC Our position: 22°38.16’S, 135°39.61’W Traveling 4.5 heading 312T
Google says we are here www.google.com/maps/place/-22.63600,-135.66017
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Sugar Shack alone at Bahia Llucio

El Mar: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

El Mar, the sea, the ocean, the Pacific.  All the same, a challenge.  Must admit, it has been a bit frustrating traversing across this side of the ocean.  Perhaps it is our route and I am being unfair, but gesh!  The majority of our days sailing down the coast of Chile have been with the wind and current on our nose.  We can figure out how to deal with that, but then you couple those conditions with the swirly seas and it becomes downright uncomfortable.

Please refer to the “live blog on 21 February 2019” as I don’t want to be repetitive.

The 600nm trip from Quintero to Valdivia should have taken us between 5-6 days.  We padded it a little as all of our trips have taken longer than expected with the stronger currents and weather conditions.

Early on the 4th morning, we were seeing almost 2 knots of current and over 20 knots of wind pushing against us.  El mar was so squirrely that our auto pilot could not hold our course.  We had a choice.  We could either keep our heading and make it to the next safe harbor 60 miles away.  At our speed it would take us 2.5-3 days.  Or we could turn around, backtrack 40 miles and hide out in Bahia Llico.  We decided to backtrack.

Bahia Llucio

Bahia Llucio is a one horse town. Well, not literally, but there are only about 4-5 streets, 3 small tiendas, 6 restaurants, and a fish market.  We walked the entire town in 10 minutes.  However, they do have a magnificent, long beach peppered with lovely little sea shells, crabs, clams, and muscles.

The bay is surrounded by lush, green trees which is a stark difference to its Northern towns.  Fishing boats are pulled in and out to sea using a tractor and a dozen dogs are your welcoming committee.

Bahia Llucio Anchorage

Bahia Llucio Anchorage

It was cold, so we were in full cold weather gear when we went to shore.  The pack of dogs followed us on our walk down the beach.  A small herd of cows were sun bathing, but would have nothing to do with Matt.

Bahia Llucio beach walk

Bahia Llucio beach walk

We hit out in this bay for 4.5 days before a weather window presented itself.  We had 180nm to conquer against the wind, waves, and current.  El Mar was cooperating as we were leaving.  The trip started out decent enough, we had a double reef in the main for about 12 hours before taking it down.  But then, el mar started to mimic a washing machine cycle making it a really uncomfortable ride.  We forged ahead and arrived at the Valdivia mouth at dawn.  A short 2-miles up the river and we arrived at Club de Yates Marina Estancilla.

Valdivia - Club de Yates

Valdivia – Club de Yates

Some fun photos.  Matt surrounded by his computers and charts, sunset and sunrise

Matt navigating from inside

Matt navigating from inside

Sunset at sea

Sunset at sea

Sunrise at sea

Sunrise at sea

This is what it looks like when a fishing boat encroaches on your space.  Of course, this only happens at night.

Close encounter at sea

Close encounter at sea

TRIP 1 – Thwarted and had to backtrack

  • Total miles – 377
  • Total hours – 76
  • Max Speed – 11.1
  • Average Speed – 4.9

TRIP 2 – Continuation to Valdivia

  • Total miles – 199 nm
  • Total hours – 40.25
  • Max Speed – 8.3
  • Average Speed – 4.9