Tag Archives: kiribati

A Double Steering Failure

Matt and I were enjoying a lovely sail from the Marshall Islands to Kiribati.  About 55 hours into our 63 hour passage we noticed an issue with our starboard steering.  Yikes!  Our engine throttles are on starboard so we use starboard as our main helm and port as a “back up.”

The good news is that auto pilot is working ok and the port steering is working ok.  We were able to safely navigate through the Kiribati pass to the anchorage.  Matt jumped in the hole as soon as the engine cooled off.

What Type of Steering is on Sugar Shack

There are multiple types of steering on yachts: mechanical, hydraulic, electric, and electric hydraulic.  We have mechanical on our boat.

How does mechanical steering work?

The mechanical system is usually made up of a Rack-And-Pinion or Worm-And-Sector steering gear that is physically connected to the helm. When the steering wheel is rotated, this mechanical system also turns. These mechanical systems, in turn, drive a pitman arm that physically turns the wheels of the boat.

Which is the same as “Christine speak”

When you turn the starboard wheel it turns the “Steering Gear Box”. The steering gear box then turns the “Arm” which is also connected to the port steering box.  That in turn rotates our port and starboard “Rudder Arms” which turns the rudders which turns the boat.  It works the opposite way as well when you turn the port helm it turns the starboard steering.

I am sure there are more technical terms for this system, but hopefully I described it well enough for you to follow along.

What Happened?

Steering Gear Box:  We are not 100% sure what happened to the starboard steering box.  It could be age and regular wear and tear.  It also could be something else???  We tie off the wheel while at anchor to reduce movement of the boat.  Could this have been a problem??

Matt disengaged the steering box after a lot of struggle.  It is super heavy and located in an awkward position.

What we discovered was the following:

  • Water appears to have dripped from the either the compass or a seam into the gear box.  We will have to reseal the helm.
  • The bearings were shot and the balls were floating around
  • A lot of gunk was in and around the gears
  • One section of the gears was stripped

Temporary Fix

There is nothing we can do in Kiribati (where we are now) or Tuvalu (where we are going next).  But we can disconnect the starboard steering box so that we don’t do any more damage by using the port equipment.

Matt ordered (8) new bearings and (4) new seals.  It will take approximately 6-8 weeks to get to us from Germany.

What Else Happened?

A few days into our passage from Kiribati to Tuvalu we discovered another problem.  The wind had dropped to 5kts so we decided to drop the sails and motor.  Matt jumped in the engine room and  found a major problem.  The port rudder arm (tie rod) was broken at the attachment point.

You have got to be kidding!!!

We don’t know what happened, but the only way to fix it is to weld the stainless back together.  Obviously we can’t do that while underway.  Matt lashed the arm down to prevent further damage.

How Are We Able to Steer?

Auto pilot is located on the starboard helm.  He has been running great!  Auto turns the port gear box which turns the arm connecting the starboard and port helms.  The arm then turns the starboard tie rod / rudder arm which turns the starboard rudder.

Basically bypassing the two broken parts on both starboard and port.  Thank goodness for redundancy on a catamaran!

Repairs

There is not much we can do until we get to Savusavu, Fiji.  So, we are being super gentle with the boat and her steering.  Good news we have very light winds and moderate seas so there is not a lot of pressure on Auto Pilot or the rudders.

Stay tuned for repairs…

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We were under passage from the Marshall Islands to Kiribati, then Tuvalu, and then Fiji in mid to late April.

Be sure to read the good news about this passage here.

Kiribati: The Bloodiest Battle of WWII

We planned to stop at Kiribati to break up our long passage from the Marshall Islands to Fiji.  Imagine our surprise when we learned the the most catastrophic loss of life and the bloodiest battle of WWII took place at Tarawa, Kiribati.

WWII Relics and Remnants

We first discovered heaps of WWII remnants in Maloelap and Wotje in the Marshall Islands.  It was fascinating, frightening, and intriguing all at the same time.

As we arrived Kiribati, we learned that the most deadliest WWII battle took place in this very atoll. 

A Little History on Kiribati

The Gilbert group of islands host a number of World War II historical sites. Tarawa, Butaritari, Abemama (also the ocean island of Banaba) were invaded by the Japanese in 1941, just after they bombed Pearl Harbour. Afterward, the Japanese fortified the atolls, 

In 1942 and 1943 US Marines conducted a number of large scale raids to remove the Japanese presence. The Battle of Tarawa is reputedly one of the bloodiest battles ever fought. During the 76 hour fight, casualties on the invading side rose up to over one thousand (of 18,000 men). The Japanese had only 17 survivors and lost over 4,500 soldiers.

The island was heavily fortified by the Japanese and secured by 4,500 soldiers besides machine guns, pillboxes dug in heavy concrete (100 of them), a long trench system, airstrip, seawalls, antiaircraft guns, light tanks, heavy machine guns, a natural coral reef, barbed wire and mines. According to Admiral Keiji Shibasaki, USA couldn“t take the atoll even with a million men in one hundred years.

Some of the kids we met on our WWII tour along with our tour guide Molly Brown (+686.7300.1016).

The Battle

By November 19th, 1943, US troops had arrived nearby the atoll. The plan was ready, and the ships carried 18,000 marines to take on the tiny island with only 4,500 Japanese soldiers. US plan was to bombard the island heavily and then move on with special vehicles that could go on into the water and come out to the sand moving through tight reefs with no effort. These cutting-edge vehicles for the time were called amphtracks and carried 20 soldiers behind machine guns.

The morning of the 20th was the first battle day of the invasion. The tide was lower than expected and the result was disastrous for US troops because they were stuck with the water to the chest and had to leave their vehicles far from the beach advancing on foot under heavy enemy fire. The attack suffered a number of problems and finally, securing the island was one of the most complicated missions US troops had during the entire war.

Photos courtesy of Visit Kiribati's Blog

Photos courtesy of Visit Kiribati’s Blog

Today, relics of the battles and forts can be visited as a living museum of this part of history.  This is what was left behind:

  • Coastal Defense Guns (48″)
  • Solid concrete bungers and pillboxes
  • Tanks, amtracs, ship wrecks and plane wrecks

Walking through WWII history

Today, relics of the battles and forts can be visited as a living museum of this part of history. 

We only had 2 days in Kiribati so we were not able to unearth all of the relics. However, we did take a tour with a local, Molly Brown. Her grandfather and uncle were alive during the war.

On the northern end of Tarawa and we found (4) bunkers amongst the locals yards and cemeteries.  There are bunkers all over the little island.

These bunkers were on the beach.  You could creep inside but it was full of bugs, spider webs, and trash.

I love this shot.  It has a bunker in the foreground and two coastal defense guns in the background.

We came across several structures that were either ammunition depots or some other massive storage facilities.

This is the Commander’s bunk. As you can see, it was heavily attacked.  Yet, it is still standing.

This pillbox (top) was dug up from the sand.  The bottom right is a storage unit from WWI (1905). Bottom left is an ammunition storage area.

War Memorials

We found several memorials dedicated to the thousands of soldiers who lost their lives during this battle.  British memorial below.

This U.S. memorial dedicated to the marines and navy troops.

The Japanese and Korean Monument.

Weapons, Tanks, and Guns

Our tour guide, Molly Brown took us to the Police station because they have two live shells stored.

Strangely enough they had lots of tanks on Kiribati.  Children play on these dilapidated tanks.

At a playground we found two guns and a war memorial from New Zealand.

More weapons.

Pieces of turrets, coastal defense guns, and other weaponry. 

Interesting sites on Kiribati:

  • WWII Tours: www.kiribatitourism.gov.ki/kiribati-experiences/world-war-ii/ 
  • WWII Relics: www.visit-kiribati.com/exploring-kiribati/historical-relics-every-vacationer-need-to-see/

Sugar Shack’s WWII Findings in the Marshall Islands

We had the opportunity to discover and explore many WWII relics while in the Marshall Islands.

  • Maloelap WWII Relics Part I: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/maloelap-wwii-remnants-part-i/
  • Maloelap WWII Relics Part II: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/maloelaps-wwii-remnants-part-ii/
  • WWII Remnants of Wotje Part I: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/wwii-remnants-on-wotje-part-i/
  • WWII Remnants of Wotje Part II: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/wwii-remnants-on-wotje-part-ii/

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events. 

We visited Kiribati around 4/11-4/13 2025.  Be sure to read about our passage to Kiribati.

Kiribati is the Center of the World

Kiribati (pronounced Kiribas) is an independent Republic within the Commonwealth of Nations.  It gained its independence in July of 1979.  Kiribati is located 360nm from the Marshall Islands, 1100nm from Fiji, and 900nm from the Solomon Islands.

This country has 33 coral atolls divided among three island groups: the Gilbert Islands, the Phoenix Islands, and the Line Islands.

Kiribati is the only country in the world that is located in all four hemispheres.  It crosses the international dateline and the equator.

Approximately, 110,000 people call Kiribati home with more than half of those people living on Tarawa.  21 of the 33 islands are inhabited and are mostly located in the Gilbert group.  

These 33 atolls are spread out over 1 million square miles of ocean.  The average height for the islands is a mere 4m tall.

We only planned to stay in Kiribati for a few days.  Afterward headed to Funafuti, Tuvalu and then on to Fiji.

Passage to Kiribati

Sugar Shack departed from the Majuro anchorage at 1600 on a nice sunny day.  We anticipated a 3.5 day passage covering 363nm.  What we did not really consider was the 2.5 hour sail inside the Majuro lagoon to get to the pass.  We also did not really consider the fact that we had to go all the way around the Majuro atoll to get to the rum line.  So the overall trip was a little longer in miles but shorter in time.

  • Total time travelled:  63 hours
  • Total miles travelled: 415nm
  • Average Speed: 6.5kts and max speed 11.6kts
  • Motoring / Motorsailing time: 18 hours

The first 45 hours provided great wind and boat speed.  However, the wind died down to 5-6kts forcing us to motor the last 18 hours.  But, overall a decent passage.

What broke?

It is not unusual for something to tear or break during passage.  On this trip, we lost the steering gear box on Starboard.  Yikes!  Lucky for us, auto pilot was still working and we have use of the port steering.  We will have to wait to be at anchor to evaluate the damage.

We also noticed that the bearings in the roller furler will need to be replaced (we just did this in NZ 1.5 years ago).  It is still functional but will have to be babied.

Formalities

Upon entry into Kiribati waters, we hoisted our “Q” flag and hailed Tarawa Radio on VHF 16.  The official who took our call organized Customs, Immigration, and Bio Security to come onboard.  It took us about 45 minutes to complete the paperwork and show them around the boat before we became welcomed into their country.

Short Stay

We had a very short stay in Kiribati.  However, we were able to sail over to Bikenbeu where we cleaned the waterline and enjoyed the pretty scenery.  We then headed back to Tarawa so we could do a WWII tour (see next blog) and clear out of the country.

All in all we stayed for 2.5 days.  Short time, but enlightening.

Interesting sites on Kiribati:

  • Visit Kiribati: www.kiribatitourism.gov.ki/kiribati-experiences/culture-island-explore/
  • Kiribati Tourism: www.kiribatitourism.gov.ki/kiribati-experiences/culture-island-explore/
  • No Foreign Land: https://www.noforeignland.com/place/6053031575552000

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We sailed to Kiribati from 4/8-4/11.

Be sure to read about our last days in Majuro.