The Las Perlas Archipelago were calling to us, but we were stuck in a routine and had a hard time getting motivated to leave. It was a decent anchorage, we had lots of cruiser friends around, knew the transit system, and all the best happy hours, and wifi spots. But, Sugar Shack was a disgrace! She was incredibly dirty from all the muck in the water and it was truly embarrassing. However, the water was nasty and neither Matt nor I wanted to get in to clean the boat. Over 3 weeks later…
First things first, pressure wash the chain and bridle as it comes up to try to remove one layer of growth.
The 44-mile trip to Las Perlas Archipielago took us about 5.5 hours. We were able to fly the spinnaker for about an hour before the winds completely died and forced us to motor. But, like our previous trip, we saw lots of fabulous sea life. The first time we made this journey (with Wayne, Heather, Michael, Stacy, and Gene) we saw whale spouts. But this time we actually saw a bit of the whale’s body and their huge tales. Plus, there are lots and lots of birds. I love it when they take up residence on a floating piece of wood.
During our last visit to the Las Perlas Archipelago, we visited 3 islands: Isla Contradora, Isla Chapera, and Mogo Mogo. We had planned on returning to this area as there are over 220 islands that make up this archipelago. Unfortunately, we only have 10 days to explore the Las Perlas Achipelago as our batteries are scheduled to arrive mid-April. We decided to start at the southern end of the chain and slowly work our way back toward the northern end. So, we headed to Isla Del Rey, the southernmost island in Las Perlas. The 33-mile trip took a little under 5 hours to motor (zero wind).
Originally, we were going to anchor at Concholon Bay, but we changed our minds once we arrived, as it was really rolly. It took us less than an hour to round the tip of Isla Del Rey, arriving at Punta Cocos. This bay had a stunning, extended beach and an old Navy outpost. Not long after we anchored, friends on “Breakaway” arrived (we had not seen them since La Playita several weeks ago).
This crazy ramp moves with the tides (low tide below) and leads up to the Navy outpost. The small Navy boat is at the dock while the large Navy boat is below.
At the eastern end of the bay is a sunken fishing boat or pelican residence.
The next morning, we picked up “Breakaway” and headed toward the dock. We had hoped to walk around the World War II airfield and outpost, but the working Navy facilities wouldn’t allow it. So, we changed course and walked the long and beautiful beach. Lucky for us as we found a mango tree that had gifted us with several ripe mangos! Sweet!
Later in the afternoon, we each headed to Rio Cacique, the next bay over. Our guide book mentioned that we could take the dinghy up river. Just before high tide, “Breakaway” came by to pick us up. A sandbar blocked the entrance so we carried their small dinghy and outboard to the river bank. It was pretty shallow, but we were able to paddle up river with the current to admire the beautiful, partially submerged mangroves and rainforest in total silence.
We had sundowners on “Breakaway” and said our goodbyes as they are heading to Ecuador and we are heading back up the Perlas chain.
On the way to our next destination, we passed by Tres Pilares de Arroz (three pieces of rice) which made me crack up! Who gets to come up with the names of these islands? Probably the same creative people who come up with nail polish names.
The next island we motored to was Isla San Jose. This is the second largest island in the Las Perlas chain and is privately owned. The owners house is located in Isla De Olega Bay which had one large house and several cabins in the surrounding forest. In the bay out front were three fishing boats of varying sizes.
We anchored at Ensenada Playa Grande and had the entire bay to ourselves – it was so picturesque. The water is pretty clear, which meant it was time to clean the water line! Matt grabbed the scraper and one SUP while I grabbed a scrub brush and the other SUP. He attacked the outside hulls while I hunkered down and worked on the inside of the hulls. This was a multiple step process. First, we got the top lawyer of growth and grime off with the scrubber and scraper, then used a cloth to muscle off the remaining soft filth. Next, we rubbed “On & Off” which is marine grade hull cleaner to try to remove the yellow tint and bring back the white fiberglass. We finished the starboard side, but ran out of energy for the port. Still need to hit the port with On & Off and then she will be sparkly clean.
We also cleaned up the stainless on the boat using ospho. The rust accumulates very quickly which requires cleaning the stainless steel (all pad eyes, stanchions, blocks, locks, and lines) every 6 weeks. Before and after photos below.
We didn’t spend all our time cleaning, we did enjoy the shore as well. This was such a beautiful and tranquil anchorage! The beach was gorgeous, with a tint of red from the neighboring rocks and corals. The shore was peppered with sea shells and tracks from birds and a gator!
We did have to pull Sweetie up pretty far on the beach and then the tide went out…
Image: Top row: red tinted sand and red cliffs. Middle row: Sweetie on shore and Sugar Shack alone at the anchorage. Bottom row: delightful untouched beach and gator tracks.
Each night we were gifted with a beautiful sunset. This doesn’t suck!
After a few days we pulled ourselves away from this paradise and moved to Isla Pedro Gonzales. It was a short 11-mile motor, with no wind. We anchored in front of the little village which consisted of about 100 colorful homes that housed the 500+ villagers. There was not much to do onshore other than walk around greeting the locals who were trying to enjoy their Sunday afternoon. We made this a lunch stop without the lunch…
Stay tuned for more on the Las Perlas Archipelago ….
Sugar Shack Visits the following Islas within Las Perlas Achipelago:
- De Fuenche