Tag Archives: tahiti

Twinkly Tahiti

I had to show you a fabulous side of Tahiti after our last blog on derelict boats.  We enjoy a live concert called “Rock the Dock” with our friends on Liward and we visit another fabulous lunch surfside.  If you look, not even really hard, you find the twinkly side of Tahiti.

Rock the Dock

Steve on Liward hosted another live concert, but this time in Tahiti. He plays with different locals depending on which island he is located at.  He has done this for years so he knows people everywhere.  In Tahiti, he plays with La Guitune (or Guy) who plays the electric violin!  I’ve never heard an electric violin before, but he played it so amazingly well.  Think of the Charlie Daniel’s Band “The Devil Went Down to Georgia” fiddle playing – truly impressive. I posted a video on my Instagram account if you want to hear him (christine.mitchell4) on 13 November 2021.

Steve and Lili set up a huge pop up tent, powered the speakers and sound system and set up chairs for the many fans.  

The stars for the night.

The fans were plenty. We ended up having well over 35 people enjoying the live music.

SNACK TAHARU’U on the Surf

Steve and Lili took us to a new place to eat called Snack Taharu’u. It is a cute little place located about 20 minutes from Marina Taina. It is situated on beautiful black sand and has a patio overlooking the surf. 

Usually many locals are showing off their surfing talents here, but on the day we went, the seas were super unhappy making it too difficult to surf.  But there were some brave body surfers (can you see them in the 3 photos on the right) and tons of people playing the river mouth.

It was a gloomy day, but we made the best of it.  As did some of the locals who made a shelter out of the drift wood.

MARAE ARAHURAHU

On the way to the snack, we stopped at a beautiful marae right off the road.  It was so easy to get to and really lovely.  There are two tikis in front of the marae (spiritual site).

The grounds were immaculately kept and well cared for with a clear path leading you to the sacred grounds.

The marae is the only marae that has been 100% restored.

We had some fun posing in front of the statue.

And some more craziness…

It was time to say goodbye to Tahiti.  We need to make our way towards Gambier and the easiest way to do that is to go through the Tuamotus.  On our last night we had a marvelous sunset over Mo’orea and I was even able to capture the moon.

       

Derelict boats of Tahiti are showcased on our last blog.   Events from this blog post occurred early November.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

Derelict Boats of Tahiti

Yeah, we are in Tahiti still.  Can you feel the sarcasm oozing off the page?  I know, most people think of Tahiti as a truly exotic and beautiful place to holiday, but for us as cruisers it is a congested, city where we have to provision, refuel, and get boat parts.  In addition, we are sandwiched between many derelict boats.

The tourists typically stay in resorts with private, white sandy beaches, negative edge pools, air-conditioned rooms and a full staff to wait on you hand and foot.  We unfortunately do not have the same experience.  Where we anchor, which is directly across from the Intercontinental hotel’s over the water huts, there are lots of derelict boats.  Why do we anchor here then?  I’d like to say it’s because these ugly, abandoned boats make Sugar Shack look like royalty, but that is not why (really, its not). We anchor here because the water is shallow, 2m, sandy, and good holding.  And we can get internet, for free, from the hotel.  Yep, you got it, that is really the real reason we anchor here.

Derelict Boats

Marina Taina is about 1-1.25nm from here.  The airport anchorage, where most boats anchor is another ½-3/4 of a mile away and downtown is about 2.5-3nm away.  Not convenient, but these are our only anchoring options.  The marina is saddled with many abandoned boats.  They move these derelict boats from the marina slips (where they can fill with a paying customer) out to the mooring fields (which they own as well).  And then they are left to die.  It is so sad.

The last time we were here, there was a small monohull tied to another monohull called Voodoo Child.  We returned 5 months later and the small monohull had sunk with its mast sticking above water.  It sank in 2 meters of water so it is no surprise that the mast is above water.

Sunk derelict Boat in Tahiti

Sunk derelict Boat in Tahiti

I swam over to it and got some photos of the inside which has been stripped clean (looters).  You can even see where they tied the rope to a wench and the broken line that is tied to the mooring.

There is a blue boat that is abandoned but still floating happily.  However, when you swim underneath it you find a sea garden on the prop, rudder, and hull.

A neighboring catamaran lost its mast last year.  It is super close to the boat that sunk.  And another mono is left abandoned near those two.

Derelict Boats

Derelict Boats

Takai Boat Sinking

A small monohull on a mooring in front of Sugar Shack looked like it had owners because there was a canvas tent over the cockpit.  But we never saw anyone on the boat during the entire time we were anchored here.  Then one morning we work up to it sinking.  Yep, the entire bow was taking on water.  We took photos, posted it on the local French Polynesia Cruiser Facebook page, emailed the marina, Port Authority, and DPAM.

They responded within 30 minutes and the marina sent 4 people out with a pump to make repairs.  They worked for hours to get all the water out and then fix the issue.  Since we don’t speak French, we don’t know what the issue was, but it has been floating since they left.

We’ve heard that France has strict laws about jettisoning derelict boats. I am not sure what those rules are but evidently, they are strict and French Polynesia cannot take abandoned boats (devoid of batteries, fuel, and harmful elements) out at sea.  All of the marinas and yards have abandoned or derelict boats that they can’t get rid of which costs them lots of money.  It is really very sad.

But, lucky for us, we are still in crystal clear turquoise waters, with sunny skies, green hillsides, and lovely Tahitians.  Always a matter of how you look at it and we chose to look it through rose colored glasses.

Our Yamaha 25hp Enduro gets repaired in our last blog.   Events from this blog post occurred early November.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

O' Belvedere Pool View

Dining in the Clouds: O’ Belvedere

A great weather presented itself so we hoisted the sails and left for Tahiti.  We arrived in less than 14 hours.  With lots to do, errands to run, projects to plan, and people to visit, we hit the ground running.  We visit a new restaurant called O’ Belvedere which boasts of being the highest restaurant in Polynesia.  At an altitude of 600 meters, it offers spectacular views of both Tahiti’s lagoon and Mo’orea. 

Two of our Texas friends, Bill and Jan Streep were visiting French Polynesia with a few other Texans.  As it turned out we were able to meet up with them for an afternoon. We had them onboard Sugar Shack before we made the drive to O’ Belvedere.

Bill and Jan Streep

O’ Belvedere Pool View

We hop in the rental car and make our way to O’ Belvedere.  The road up to the restaurant is ridiculously steep with sharp hairpin turns, on roads barely big enough for a small compact car.  And yes, it is a two-way road.  Lucky for us, each time we came across a vehicle coming down, we were somewhere we could slightly pull off the side of the road so they could pass.  It was a “hairy” drive!

Crazy road to O' Belvedere

Crazy road to O’ Belvedere

O’ Belvedere

After that drive, we all needed a drink to calm our nerves.  The outside of the restaurant is really nothing to look at (see top right photo).  They did not put much effort into making you feel welcome as you approach from the outside. 

However, the inside is amazing!  Immediately when you walk in you pass through the kids play area with a small foos ball table, cards, games, and puzzles.  Then you pass the glassed-in kitchen where you can watch your dinner be prepared, and a fully stocked bar.

O' Belvedere

O’ Belvedere

The bathrooms, which are off to the side, offer the best views in the world.  As you sit on the pot you have sweeping views of the valley and Tahiti lagoon through the floor to ceiling windows.  In one bathroom, you can even do your sewing.

Bathroom view from O' Belvedere

Bathroom view from O’ Belvedere

We were here mid-day to enjoy the pool before dinner.  So, the dining room was pretty empty, but we still grabbed our table and had a few cocktails before heading to the pool.

There is also an adult game room with a pool table, darts, foos ball and more games.

The Views

From every angle you have amazing views.  So beautiful.

The Pool

As you descend the stairs you come to the pool level with a negative edge.  They have a small lounge area and a lift to deliver your cocktails.

The pool offers beautiful views as well.

It was a beautiful day to hang out at the pool.  Cocktails in hand, cooling off in the water, and enjoying good company.

Matt always has me laughing.

The sunset was magnificent.

And it just kept getting better and better.

The Food

I must admit that I was not too impressed with the menu selections.  They had a lot of red meat, which I don’t eat.  No fish, chicken, or port.  I ended up with Camembert au Four which was baked brie and cold cuts for a whopping $29!.  It was a super-duper expensive restaurant, but the views make it worth it.  The others had the Rib steak with a pepper sauce and said it was delicious.

In our last blog, we shared delicious photos of the underwater pearl Champon pearl farm and of Bay Nao Nao.   Events from this blog post occurred early October.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.