Monthly Archives: August 2017

Scutwork, Beach Resort, & a Foresaken Hotel

Since we still had the car, Matt and I decided to pick up some heavy items at a few of the bulk stores.  Our goal was to do some scutwork and then reward ourselves with a visit to Cas Abao beach.  We started out at my favorite place, Kooyman as Matt had seen some hinges on sale and wanted to pick up some Muratic Acid.  Unfortunately, the hinges were gone, but we grabbed the Muratic Acid and headed toward our second stop, Building Depot.

Tom and Bianca suggested we check it out as an alternative to Kooyman.  I was not expecting much as I had just left my new favorite store, Kooyman.  We walked in and gasped at the size of this store.  It was two stories and had to be triple the size of Kooyman.  Think Home Depot, Target, and Bed Bath and Beyond all in one clean and orderly store!  It was immense and I actually got a little lost on the 2nd floor!  We managed to get away with spending less than $100, phew, lucky day.  We will certainly come back here as the prices were reasonable, people were friendly, and just about everything you need is under one roof.

This is 1/3 of this massive building.

This is 1/3 of this massive building.

Each time we visited Kooyman, we passed a place called Roti Mahal.  Since we are both roti fans it became our lunch stop.  As we bellied up to the counter, they were serving a chicken roti and chicken/pasta combo plates so we just said we will take one of each.  We were served quickly and dove right in.  Our meals were a mix of Caribbean flare and Indian and they were packed with flavors!

Matt's pasta chicken plate.

Matt’s pasta chicken plate.

We were on the hunt for large water bottles and could not remember where we purchased them before.  Somewhere, we had found 2 gal jugs that came in a pack of 6, but where was that?  Cost U Less did not have them, so we headed to Best Buy.  Although we did not find our water, we did manage to pick up some other essential items (razors, conditioner, soda).

In an effort to break up our day, we took a break and headed to Cas Abao beach.  We had heard that this is a really beautiful beach with white sand, palapas, and pretty water.  We had passed the entrance several times so we found it with no problem.  There was a $6 entry fee, which was a first for us, but we paid it and headed in.  It was a bit crowded, considering it was not a cruise ship day, but I managed to get a few shots with no people.  We enjoyed a nice stroll on the beach and a cold beverage as a little yellow bird entertained us.

Cas Abao entrance makes a statement

Cas Abao entrance makes a statement

Matt seeking out a quiet spot.

Matt seeking out a quiet spot.

Friendly bird visited us--called her Cathie!

Friendly bird visited us–called her Cathie!

On the way back from Cas Abao, we decided to stop at Santa Martha Baai as this is one of the other anchorages we are allowed to visit with the big boat.  We wanted to check it out by car before we picked up anchor and moved Sugar Shack to a new location (even if it were only for a few days which is what we are allowed).  All I can say is “thank goodness” we checked it out first.  There is no bus stop so we would be pretty isolated (which also means no internet).  The water was pretty shallow, the channel was super narrow, and there were no other sail boats around.  Probably not the anchorage for us

Santa Martha Baai

Santa Martha Baai

After leaving Santa Martha Baai, Matt had noticed an abandoned hotel on maps.me so we decided to check it out!  For some reason, I am drawn to these types of places even though it makes me so sad.  The Sunset Waters Resort (this is a link back when it was open and gorgeous).  It lies on a beautiful stretch of beach, which is private to the hotel, there is a separate building which was probably a restaurant, restrooms, and water sports area.  The actual resort had a large swimming pool, swim up bar, and Jacuzzi.  Each room had ocean views with balconies and were of a decent size.

Sunset Waters Resort in her hey day.

Sunset Waters Resort in her hey day.

It has been forsaken since 2009 due to financial problems and everything has been stripped, graffiti is peppered on the walls, foliage is all overgrown, and trash liters the site.  This is what it looks like now – Sunset Waters Resort .

Sunset Waters Resort today with no roof

Sunset Waters Resort today with no roof

Sunset Waters Resort pool all dilapidated. .

Sunset Waters Resort pool all dilapidated. .

Our next stop was a new store called Centrum Grocery Store.    Steve had told us about this store and it was pretty darn nice.  Again, we went in looking for water and came out with spices, jalapenos, diet gingerale and a few other necessities. Still in need of water, we hit Goisco.  As you might recall, I was pretty impressed with Goisco, but today, after visiting Centrum, Best Buy, and Cost U Less I realized that all of these stores are amazing for different reasons.  Still did not find our bottled water, but we managed to fill up a few more bags.

You see, we use Pepper Plate which is a food app and keeps your shopping list on our phone. When we go shopping we take things off our list as we find them and leave the missing items on our list – you can never seem to find everything at one store when it comes to groceries.  Probably like going to Whole Foods, Vons/Randalls, and the Farmer’s Market.

Feeling a little defeated about our water acquisition, we headed back to the boat.  Luckily, I saved all of our receipts, so I looked up where we bought them last month so we could head there in the morning – it was Cost U Less!

Always good to feel accomplished

  • Errands
  • Discovery

Northern Curacao: Blue Room, Turtles, & Beaches

We decided that we wanted to explore the North side of the island (the Blue Room in particular) a little more and dragged Steve along for the ride.  He picked us up in his dinghy (since it is on the way) and we hopped on the free grocery bus.  We were then able to walk the short distance to Mickey’s Car Wash and Car Rental where we rented a small car for 55 naf ($30/day) with a two day minimum, which includes all taxes, fees and insurance.

Our little Hyundai i10

Our little Hyundai i10

Today was a day for errands and exploring.  Steve is rebuilding a grinder station and needed to find a machine shop.  He had originally stopped at a place by Napa Auto Parts while we were getting the car, but was redirected to another place called Mechanical Machine Shop Gabriella which happens to be located in the heart of a residential district.  We thought surely we were lost, but low and behold, maps.me directed us right to this hidden gem.  I had no idea what most of the machines were or did, but Matt and Steve were duly impressed.

The nice gentleman took his part and pressed the bearings out of his part.  Sweet!  He also told us where to get new bearings so we headed there next, to Kuzeta.  Unfortunately, after much measuring, researching, and checking inventory in the back they did not have either of the types of bearings Steve needed.  Bummer – but now its time to do something fun.

We wanted to start with the Blue Room since it had eluded us before.  We met a French family who found it on foot and gave us directions so we were determined to find it this time and if not we had a back up plan which was to pay $22 per person to take a tour with Captain Good Life who takes you by boat to the Mushroom Forest, the blue room, black sand beach and lover’s beach.  We drove straight to Playa Santa Cruz and arrived around 11:30 am, we easily found the trail and headed off with our snorkel gear, water, and camera equipment.  It was a fairly easy trail, nice dirt path, and not many cacti to avoid, step over or run into.

Matt & Steve on the initial hike

Matt & Steve on the initial hike

Within about 15-20 minutes we arrived at Playa Pretu which is also called black sand beach.   I will have to admit that the sand is darker than most, but I hesitate to call it “black” as it is really dark brown (in compared to other black sand beaches I’ve visited). None the less it is really pretty and deserted – no other people around.  We only stayed a short while as the blue room was beckoning us.

Playa Pretu

Playa Pretu “Black Sand Beach”

Playa Pretu

Playa Pretu “Black Sand Beach”

Matt found a small trail up a hill and off we went.  This trail was dramatically different from the first part of the trip in that it was small, narrow, ran along the cliff, and had tons of cacti to avoid (both on the ground and above ground).  It was not too terribly difficult in flip flops but it was a little challenging.  Our trusty maps.me app kept us pointing in the right direction until we finally came to the elusive cliffs at the blue room!

As we arrived, a group of four girls were just preparing to jump off the cliff (about 2-3 meters high) so we took our time to gather our gear and equipment before we followed them off the cliff.  Steve jumped in first and Matt tossed his snorkel gear after him, then I joined him.  I am not a fan of heights and jumping off a cliff in my bikini was not on my top 10 list, except I really did want to see the blue room so off I went.

Trying to convince myself to jump.

Trying to convince myself to jump.

Matt soon joined us and we headed into the cave.  The cave was U shaped so the highest entry point is in the center at 1-2′ from the water to the ceiling.  As you snorkel in, you are immediately greeted with the most amazing turquoise blue water.  It was spectacular!  Toward the back was a protruding rock that you could stand on and behind that rock were several schools of fish.  A breathtaking experience!

Entrance to

Entrance to “Blue Room”

​As it was past lunch time, we decided to head back. to the car  We scurried up the cliff and back down the trail – but wait!  We noticed a little intersection that presented us with a nice flat, dirt path about 3 meters wide and the original path we came on (narrow, by the cliffs).  We decided to take the new path which deposited us right back to Playa Pretu.  As we looked around we saw that there are two paths – the one we took to get there that was more challenging up along the coast and the much easier one down a dirt road.  Oh, well, it is an adventure after all.

Easy trail back to Santa Cruz

Easy trail back to Santa Cruz

We arrived back at the car hungry so we headed to Playa Lagun to eat at Bahia.  After we were fat and happy we decided to head back to Playa Piskado which is where we swam with the turtles.  This place is worthy of multiple visits. The majority of the turtles at Playa Piskado are juvenile green turtles.  As juveniles, they are omnivores which means they eat meat as well as plants.  At this beach, they primarily eat fish scraps from the fisherman’s daily catch.  As they get older, they will become herbivores eating mostly sea grass and algae.


Fishermen cleaning fish & feeding turtles

Fishermen cleaning fish & feeding turtles

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

We wanted to squeeze in one last stop before heading back, so we continued north and stopped at Playa Kalki which is in Westpunt at the far northern tip of the island.  This was a new spot for all of us, so we piled out of the car, headed down the short stairwell and were presented with a beautiful little rocky beach with a few palapas, a small eatery, and gorgeous water.  We were running low on time so we did not snorkel here but I made a note to come back at a later date.

Playa Kalki eatery

Playa Kalki eatery

Playa Kalki

Playa Kalki

Just your neighborhood goats crossing the road to get to the other side – somewhere on our drive back into town.

Goat traffic on opposite side of street

Goat traffic on opposite side of street

Conqueror:

  • Jumped off a cliff
  • Swam in a cave

A Hairy Chain and a Hot Hike

Spanish Waters is a relatively big bay with four distinct anchorages and 5 marinas.  Despite the large sailing community in this area, both permanent and transient boats, there is not sufficient water flow within the anchorage which causes significant growth on your bridle and anchor chain.  We had installed a 100 meters of brand new stainless steel chain while moored in Bonaire.  Within a few weeks at our Curacao anchorage we had significant growth.  What does “significant” mean?

Let’s rewind for a minute.  You might recall, we had a bit of a challenging time finding a good place to set the hook when we first arrived.  After several attempts we ended up about 100 meters into one of the many channels but since the winds were blowing 25 kn we decided to stay where we were.  Then we had to let out another 10 meters of chain because another boat anchored too close to our bow so we were even further in the channel. It was not “the main” channel, but a channel none the less.  When we let our chain out another 10 meters we had to pull up the chain to remove the bridle in order to let more chain out and that is when we saw just how bad the growth was.  You could not even see the stainless it was so long and thick. I would have taken a photo, but we were in the midst of re-anchoring and I just couldn’t get to my camera. Matt tried to clean the top part as best he could before we dropped it again.

Fast forward, 6 days later, we finally had a low wind day (blowing 15 kn) and a spot opened up in front of us so we decided to to move the boat.  Which meant we had to pull up all of the chain.  Much to our surprise, it was not as bad as we thought.  The chain that was dangling in the water along with our bridle were of course the worse because the remaining 55 meters rubbed against the sea floor keeping the growth down to a minimum.

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

After 6 days, the belly (or kellet) of the chain that hangs in the water already is growing hair.

6 days of growth.

6 days of growth.

Our bridal has been submerged for 3 weeks and check out the long locks on it – can you even see the stainless hook we use?

For our landlubbers, a bridle is used to limit the movement of the boat at anchor.  One line is tied to the starboard bow, another line is tied to the port bow and they are connected by dyneema (a really uber strong line) and stainless steel connectors.  The image below are the two lines and the stainless steel connection point that is hooked on to the anchor chain to limit movement.  Here is an interesting blog with images for anchoring Best Practices for Anchoring.

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where's the stainless?

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where’s the stainless?

Matt also had to pull up our 2nd fortress anchor that we put out for the storm.  It took him awhile as the anchor had a lot of load on it for several days and he had to pull it up by hand, in strong winds and current.

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Now we are safely anchored inside the anchorage (well technically we are right on the corner), but inside is better than outside.  As soon as we moved a monohull came in and took our old spot – in the channel.

As we look out our boat, just off the starboard side, there is a mountain called Kabrietenberg (or mountain of the goats).  The entire trip is about 5.4 km and the highest peak is 78 meters high – should take a few hours.  We were told that there are a few caves toward the top and a really cool Indian statue next to one of the openings.  So, Matt and I decided to go exploring.  We took the dinghy over to the dock and began our walk.

We walked past Pop’s Place and Fort Beekenburg (which we had already visited on a previous adventure) and the Quarantine House.  In 1874 the area of ​​Caracas Bay was designated as a quarantine station for ships of infectious disease on board. The garrison buildings near the fort were set up as a hospital for sick seamen.  South, on the corner of the bay, in 1883 the observation device for healthy sailors built, the Quarantine Building which is where the sailors had to stay until it was determined that they were not infected. There is a legend that this building is haunted, but if you are interested it is for sell for a mere 270,000 euro.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House interior.

Quarantine House interior.

We left the quarantine house and rounded  the corner to Tug Boat Beach.  We were so excited to visit this little beach which was named after the tug boat that was accidentally sunk years ago.  A new beach bar was recently built in June by using random parts and pieces around the island.  Unfortunately, we did not bring our snorkel gear and the bar was closed so we will have to come back another time.

Tug Boat Beach.

Tug Boat Beach.

After we left Tug Boat beach we headed up Kabrietenberg mountain with the hopes of finding the caves and our Indian.  It was a relatively easy hike with a small dirt path and lots of cactus to duck, dive, twist and jump over.  We ventured off several smaller trails, came across some beautiful scenic stops with views of Santa Barbara Beach and marina, Spanish Waters, and the ocean.  We found several caves, but no Indian.  Hmph….we must be in the wrong spot or did we miss him?

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Small cave we walked around.

Small cave we walked around.

We decided it would be best if we just kept moving forward instead of circling back as we had already circled most of the mountain.  Not sure we were still on a “path” but we found a walking area by the mangroves and ended up back by the main road.

Our little Indian will have to wait for us, until, we go exploring again.