Monthly Archives: August 2017

A New Mate, Marina and Canteen.

A few days after arriving in Spanish Waters, we visited the fuel station at the Curacao Yacht Club.  As we were leaving, a new dinghy pulled up and we introduced ourselves to its captain.  His name is Steve and he is the captain on a boat called Kialoa III which will be staying here for a few months.  After we realized that he had not cleared in, we quickly shared our experiences with Curacao formalities with the hope of sparing him some frustration and time.   He was really nice, so we had hoped to meet up with him later.

We had seen Kialoa III in several races earlier this year and she is a magnificent sailing machine!  Kialoa III was designed by Sparkman and Stephens as a 79ft ketch and built by Palmer Johnson in 1974, before being converted to a sloop in 1976. She held the Sydney to Hobart race record for 21 years and had many victories worldwide – see her various race results.

We ended up meeting with Steve at a happy hour at Pirate’s Nest (which is where most of the boaters can be found between 5p-6p daily).  We invited him over for dinner since he had not been on a boat like ours before.  The day before, Matt had tried out a new recipe that he received from our friends on Contrary Mary – chicken roti!  Matt made the roti bread (similar to a tortilla) and the super scrumptious chicken curry fixins for the inside all from scratch!  It was so spectacular, we ate it two nights in a row.  It was super fun hearing all of his stories.  He is a Kiwi by birth and has traveled all over the world.  His unique talents are highly sought after by many a yacht owners as he is not just a captain, but also a marine genius.  He, like Matt, can fix almost anything.

We decided that we wanted to explore Curacao Marine Ship Yard so the three of us hopped on the 6A bus to Willemstad.  Steve had ridden on the small buses, but this was his first adventure on the big bus (which are pretty darn nice with AC, decent chairs, and turnstiles at the entrance and exit).  For a f1.70 (or $.85) you can ride all the way into town.  Once in town, we pulled up our maps.me app and walked the couple of miles to Curacao Marine.  It was not a direct path and took us through some shabby parts of town (we’d seen this already, but it was new to Steve).  We ended up crossing “the ring” which is the main highway and scampered up a hill to see the yard.

Panorama view of the city from a top our hill.

Panorama view of the city from a top our hill.

Curacao Marine Shipyard and Marina.

Curacao Marine Shipyard and Marina.

Right when we walked in, we noticed a HUGE travel lift that could easily accommodate our boat and even Kialoa III.  This lift had a maximum capacity of 60 tons (to give you an idea of how big that is, we are only 11 tons and Kialoa II is 40 tons).  We toured the yard, took a few photos, visited the main office and ran into a Frenchman who is staying in the marina.  He was very chatty and informed us that the yard had recently went through management changes and life was excellent now!  He said the service was great, they were really friendly and did good work.  He was a a great salesman for the yard and for Curacao.

Curacao Marine Bar.

Curacao Marine Bar.

Huge lift for hauling boats. This is 1 of 2.

Huge lift for hauling boats. This is 1 of 2.

Steve is not a walker but he hung in there with us.  He is an avid mountain biker, runner, and swimmer but walking is not “his thing.”   We were all starving, so after we arrived back in town we needed to get something to eat.  A few weeks ago, Matt and I had walked by a large nondescript building with lots of seating inside and a row of cooks against the back wall.  We made a mental note to come back another time but we soon forgot.  Steve mentioned it during our walk so when we arrived back into town we head to it, Zus di Plaza.  A half dozen vendors line up along one side of the wall creating their specialty menus as customers sit on family style benches to enjoy their feasts.  The 2nd to last booth had arepa di pampuna or pumpkin pancakes so that is where we headed.  As we sat down, we started chatting with 2 locals who were already eating.  Their meal looked so good we decided to order two of our own.  It was a local, white filet fish, with TuTu (a black eyed pea concoction), salad, and mashed potatoes.  Let me tell you—it was fabulous!  We will certainly have to return here soon.

Exterior of Zus Di Plaza - looks nondescript.

Exterior of Zus Di Plaza – looks nondescript.

Interior Zus Di Plaza, before the lunch rush.

Interior Zus Di Plaza, before the lunch rush.

Fish Filet

Fish Filet

Tutu which is black eyed peas mushed with other yummy stuff

Tutu which is black eyed peas mushed with other yummy stuff

As the week progressed we were nearing the finale of the America’s Cup.  Steve is of course rooting for New Zealand (as he is a Kiwi) and we were just interested in seeing these spectacular flying machines.  Since Steve is staying at the Santa Barbara Beach Resort Marina he suggested we meet him at the poolside bar, Splash to watch the event.  When we arrived, he was seated next to a lovely couple who are also staying at the marina (they are American and rooting for Oracle, team U.S.A.).  I was torn, as I wanted America to win but they only had 2 American’s on their team and they weren’t even starting so they really aren’t an American team.  Besides Oracle had won a lot and it was time for a new country to take the win.
We ended up watching the last 3 days (or last 6 races) with Steve up at Splash which was proved to be a really fun outing.  We would swing by the dock, take a dip in the ocean, walk up to the bar, have a snack and some water and enjoy a fun event.

On Sunday, it was a bit of a $h*t show at the dock.  You see, it is free to tie your boat here and anyone can enjoy the beautiful turquoise water and white sandy beach.  The top photo is the dock on any normal weekday and the bottom photo is the weekend.

Week day and weekend shot of Santa Barbara dock.

Week day and weekend shot of Santa Barbara dock.

On Monday, we arrived a little early so we decided to explore the property a little bit.  They have a giant chess game (life size), horse shoes, a yoga platform (also used for weddings), and a beautiful golf course.

Santa Barbara Golf Course.

Santa Barbara Golf Course.

Santa Barbara eating area - can you imagine a romantic dinner here?

Santa Barbara eating area – can you imagine a romantic dinner here?

Stay tuned for more adventures with our new friend Steve.

Propane Pizza, and Parties

We are trying to get our blog caught up with reality so we have been posting 3 updates each week.  Unfortunately, we are still about 4-5 weeks behind so be patient with us as we try to get you up to date.

Matt and I have been enjoying our time in Curacao, we have learned the bus system and found a super duper handy website that tells us where the buses are so we don’t have to wait outside in the heat.  We make use of the free daily bus (except Sunday) that takes boaters to the market each morning and we have met some new friends.

As we were coming into Spanish Waters for the first time a few weeks ago, a couple was enjoying some downtime at the Santa Barbara Beach Resort.  They have been thinking about buying a boat, saw us come in to the anchorage and decided to google “Sugar Shack” which brought up our blog.  They read a little about us and sent us a message.  We met them for happy hour and thoroughly enjoyed their company.  They are from the Netherlands, have a 5th wheel and travel the U.S. and have a home here in Curacao.  Thom created a really useful and awesome product called Thom’s Planner.  If you use a gant chart or an excel spreadsheet to track projects, weddings, events, or schedules, I strongly encourage you to check out his product as it is simple, intuitive, and very easy to use.  Bianca, his wife, is an amazingly talented artist who sells her work all over the world.  Check out her Facebook page.


During happy hour, we mentioned our crazy propane adventure (see post from 8/1) and he took pity on us!  He offered to drive us to get refills (an 3 other boaters who were in a similar situation).  He met us at Fisherman’s Harbor, and drove us to Curoil (a gas station in Muizenberg) which was about 20 minutes by car.  We piled our tanks into the back of his truck and headed out.  When we arrived, the attendant who was new, informed us that the woman who knew how to handle our American style fittings just left for an errand and would be back in an hour – bummer.  Oh well, we decided to head to Goisco MegaStore which is like a Walmart on steroids.  It was a win win for everyone as we all walked away with something.  I found my coveted diet gingerale and Matt found some fresh jalapenos!  Sweet.  Back to Curoil where we were we filled up our 20lb tank for a whopping $9!  Yep, you read that right.  We paid $40 in St. Marteen.  The funny thing is, it would have cost $4.50 to fill up as a home unit, but they considered our tank to be a BBQ unit so we had to pay double.  No problem as double was still waaaay cheaper than any other island.  We will have to come back here to top up our tanks before we leave–for shizzle.

Goisco has quite the candy selection and this is only part of their selection.

Goisco has quite the candy selection and this is only part of their selection.

They also have a pretty extensive produce department.

They also have a pretty extensive produce department.

Thom and Bianca invited us over for pizza night as they recently installed a new pizza oven.  So, we took Sweet N Low over to Fisherman’s Harbor and walked to their house as it was less than a mile away.  Their home was beautiful and had a breathtaking view of Spanish Waters (including our boat).  Every room was peppered with Bianca’s artwork.  They invited a few other friends who live on the island and we had a glorious time!  What a fabulous night with new friends, tasty food, and titillating conversations.  We hope to spend a lot more time with our new friends including dinner on Sugar Shack.

Bianca & the first of many scrumptious pies on pizza night!

Bianca & the first of many scrumptious pies on pizza night!

Thom & Bianca's pizza oven.

Thom & Bianca’s pizza oven.

Over the course of the night, Thom and Bianca served up between 8-10 pies ranging from vegetarian, to meat to cheese lovers!  I didn’t think they would be eaten, but somehow we all gobbled them up!

Thom’s dad has a sailboat so they have a sailing background.  They plan to charter a catamaran in the Virgin Islands to get their feet wet in the Caribbean and we look forward to being a part of their new adventure.  It’s been a lot of fun helping them with questions (as much as we can) and providing some guidance of what its like to live on a boat.  But, since they have already lived in a 5th wheel they have some of the hardest transitioning items covered, such as limited water and electricity, traveling light, and being in a home that is mobile.  Either way, we hope to continue seeing our new friends out on the big blue watery road!

Tis the season – Tropical Storm Bret

Since we planned on staying on the boat during hurricane season, we researched our options because we didn’t really want to go back to Grenada again.  So history says, Grenada and Trinidad are out side the hurricane zone or box (terminology is insurance company dependent)   Basically if you intend to be outside the zone or box, the deductible stays the same, in side the zone the deductible percentage goes way up.   So we plan accordingly.  Our box, means we have to be below Latitude 12.5, which means the ABCs (Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao) are outside the zone and we are good.  So we made plans and high tailed it down to Bonaire by June 1, the official start of the season.

There was an early storm in the Atlantic that got the first name well before the season actually started, this year is predicted to be above average.  No biggie we are heading out side the zone.  But WAIT,  there is a new invest starting off Africa at 5 degrees, not to worry its a long way away.  A storm is first called “invest” and as it gets worse, it becomes a number, and then if it becomes a hurricane it gets a name.  Of course I (and every sailor) keep an eye on these things.  We watch and watch, then the Facebook heats up with discussions, then NOAA calls it an Invest, thats when it gets real.   The storm was initially modeled to go right over Grenada, but that’s outside the zone.  So much for the box.   Well sure enough its a low rider system and got a name, Bret.   Bret doesn’t really sound like a low rider name, there is not a lot of street cred for a guy name Bret that is a wind bag.   Bret took the low road across Trinidad, where storms never go.  It wasn’t a full fledged hurricane, but had some 50 knot winds.  The second named storm of the season is set its site on our chosen location to hide from the big wind bags.  Must be my magnetic personality.

Early NOAA predictions for Bret

Early NOAA predictions for Bret

Meanwhile back in Curacao where we are 2 days out prior to the prediction and since we didn’t have too much on the agenda, I started preparing.  Re-Wrapped the jib nice and tight, hadn’t done a great job when we rolled it on the way into Curacao.   Lowered the lazy jacks and tied the sail and sailbag to the boom and removed all excessive windage.  This boat has quite the windage without all the extra bits of awning, canvas, seat cushions, flags and of course anything that can fly away.  I pull out the spare anchor, clean the line locker at the same time, get the secondary anchor setup to drop.  Notice no other activity on the other boats around us.   So we had plenty of time to go on the shopping bus and chat with other cruisers, of course some have been paying attention, others haven’t.   Next day is the day before the night when the winds are predicted to arrive.

Hoards of activity now, canvas on other boats coming down, sails getting wrapped, second anchors being dropped.  Boats moving and looking for more protection.   The boat anchored to our port was close to a shallow spot and I was a bit worried when the wind went south of east we would be really close, but when we came back from the morning shopping run he had moved somewhere else.  Sweet now we have plenty of room.  Take a few more bits of windage down and relax and watch what the others are doing.  Watched 2 boats set the second anchor.  Hmm.. should I do that now?    Just a few more minutes a boat that had been anchored way way up in the front, started moving around and came behind us, that’s fine, but then he changed his mind and when in front, dropped his anchor and floated back way back.  Too close for comfort and I kept an eye on them.  Eventually they came over and explained that their windlass was no good but he dropped 50M of chain and a heavy anchor. Asked if I had more chain to let out to give a little more safety room.  Hmm.. we already had 65M of chain out, sure we can drop another 10M back.  I watched as he dove on his anchor to make sure it was set.   All seemed ok.

Flag wrapped but later removed and stored

Flag wrapped but later removed and stored

I took our secondary anchor in the dinghy and set it off our starboard and just about even with his boat, the first attempt with the bitter end still tied to the boat didn’t go very well, it never set and I could pull it in by hand.  Was getting all beat up in the swell and wind.  Wore my self out, so took a break this time grabbed sailing gloves and dropped the dinghy back in the water and went to retrieve the anchor.  The anchor itself doesn’t weigh much but I think there is 10M of 10mm chain that’s pretty darned heavy when you try to pick it straight up from the bottom, its 8M deep here.  Christine released the bitter end after I had all that aboard and I motored back into the wind and dropped the anchor again, this time it stuck at least I couldn’t pull it with the dinghy.  Gave the bitter end back to Christine to tie on the starboard bow.   Raised the dinghy and started the boat so we could pull up the anchor to the bridle to let out another 10M.  Oh my growth, what nasty stuff grows in less than 2 weeks in these waters.

2nd anchor and chain prior to setting

2nd anchor and chain prior to setting

On our shopping trip, we had purchased to cheap brushes, which earlier in the day I drilled 3 holes to attach them together – an experiment to help clean up the gunky mess.  Put 2 bolts on one end and tied a line to the other end so make a chain cleaner.  Think a Texas boot cleaner on top of each other and chain running in the middle.   Well  it worked okay not great but easier than trying to scrub both sides of chain separately… just move the one brush up and down on one side and the other does the other side.  So much better where you don’t mind touching the chain whiskers.    We dropped 10M back and adjusted the secondary anchor and all is good, we had room again.   Of course, I wasn’t going to sleep that evening anyway.   Dropping back 10M definitely put us out of the “approved anchorage”, but winds were coming.

Chain and line cleaner

Watching the NOAA site and various other weather sources, it was interesting when they called for a Tropical Storm Watch for Bonaire and Aruba, but left Curacao out.  Wasn’t until 8 hrs later that the “watch” was applied to Curacao too.  Curacao is directly between the A and B, I guess Curacao was showing their independence.

The start of the rain.

The start of the rain.

Pizza for dinner round 6pm, earliest the winds would hit would be 8pm.  Of course after dark, and that’s when it started.   Winds and Rain, at first its all good, everyone is staying put, boats swinging like a good ole ho-down, the music of course couldn’t be heard over the roar of the wind.   Had all our instruments set with various alarms in case I missed something.  First and easiest are anchor alarms, distance the boat moved, set on at 50M and one at 60M.  These are not exact unless you set them when you set the anchor position, but gives you a good idea on how far you are moving, be it left right or backwards and forwards.  Then also set the high wind alarm at 35knots.   35k proved to be to conservative as that went off time and time again, had to change that to 45k after we were pretty sure we were sticking in the same spot.  Somewhere around the first alarm, the new boat looked closer but its night and distance is hard to tell with the boat dance going on, I walked to the bow to get a better look and had to walk at an angle to keep balance.  Christine says he is drifting, I say I’m not sure.  Then next waltz we double check and he looks closer, then another alarm for wind, I’m outside watching and see the neighbor going forward??!?  Can’t hear the engine, not sure whats happening, then we swing again and he ends up broadside to the wind and whoosh he is now behind us with both of his anchors dragging.  Yes Christine was right, he was drifting, I had the Air Horn making sure he is aware he is no longer hooked.  We are still hooked but swinging every which direction.   Somehow when he drug, the wind direction had to be just right and didn’t catch our secondary anchor thank fully.  He drove around for a bit in the channel till he found a spot 5M deep and kept his engine running,  When he got settled down he called us on the VHF and apologized for any “concern” he might have caused.  We chatted a bit to learn that he was indeed set again and a pretty good distance from us.

Exchanging emails and texts with new local friends, who kept us up to date on what the local news was saying.   

Another catamaran was working the anchor from the other anchorage behind us, I could see the navigation lights going back and forth, looking for a spot to anchor in 40 knot winds and rain, they too eventually anchored in the channel.     I didn’t see this until the morning but another monohull had also anchored in the channel at some point in the evening.

Had turned on the radar on the boat and found a perimeter alarm setting that goes off when any radar blip comes within a given radius of you.  Perfect, set a ring of protection around the boat and on certain swings it would just alarm as I got close to our first drifter.  Checked the local Doplar radar and there was another band of rain and wind coming so stayed up till that passed and wind abated back to the 20s.    

All turned out good, we still have 2 anchors out while the winds are still blowing, but its back to the normal upper 20s.   Bacon and eggs for breakfast and slowly clean the boat and return some of the canvas and cushions to their spots.   When it slows down, we’ll try and retrieve the anchor from the depth and dislodge it somehow.