Be sure to read our last blog post, Fijian Culture: Part I as it introduces sevusevu and the kava ritual.
Sevusevu
Sevusevu marks the time and place for visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village. This usually happens in the outer islands (Lao Group, Mamanuca, Yasawa, Kadavu & Beqa) or basically any island other than Viti Levu and Vanua Levu.
Fijian culture requires us to ask permission to anchor or swim in the waters of the island and to walk ashore. The sevusevu ceremony allows visitors to be presented to the chief along with their gift of kava. Once this is done, the visitor is then accepted into the village and has the same rights as the locals of that village (unless otherwise instructed).
How does it work for cruisers like Matt and I? When we arrive to a new outer island, a turaga ni koro (pronounced too-ranga nee koro), headman, greets you at the beach or the outskirts of the village. We hand our half kilo of kava (bundle of roots/sticks pre-packaged into an acceptable amount) to the turaga ni koro. He then walks us to the chief’s house. We leave our shoes outside and sit on the woven mat placed in the center of the house. Men are placed in front, women in back.
Men must sit crossed legged while women must sit with their legs tucked under them. All the while, not showing your knees.
Presentation to the Chief
The turaga ni koro will present our gift of kava and us to the chief. The chief claps three times announcing that he is going to speak and then he makes a speech of welcome (long or short in English or Fijian depending on the chief). He then claps three times ending the speech.
Depending on the chief and the village, we either perform the full sevusevu ceremony or we are given a condensed version, where we are allowed to ask questions, then depart. Most will do the short version without the drinking of kava. This allows us to ask questions about the village and tell them what we would like to do on their island (hike, swim, see the school, etc…).
Sevusevu and Kava
Fijian culture requires us to participate if we are asked to sit through a full sevusevu ceremony, including the drinking of kava, then a new process is followed. At the center of the mat is another man who will have been “working” the kava. Using a tea towel, they will dip it into the special wooden bowl and ring it out with kava (fluid). Repeating over and over. The kava liquid looks like muddy water.
A small cup or bowl will be handed to the men first (then the women). You are required to clap once, say “Bula”, gulp the entire thing down at once, and then clap three times.
The kava can taste anywhere from muddy water to a benign taste (depends on the village). It does have a strange aftertaste and within 10-15 seconds your mouth, lips, and/or tongue will go numb.
Once everyone has participated in kava, you are allowed to ask your questions. Nobody is allowed to leave or stand until the chief does. It can be challenging to find a way to be excused so the best thing to do is to ask to see the village or the school (as that offer cannot easily be refused).
To be accepted into the village brings certain obligations and you must behave and dress accordingly. A formal farewell, plus a thank-you, on leaving relieves the village of any further responsibility for you.
Some villages have begun asking for donations on top of the kava. The donations range from $25F to $50F. The village uses this money to rebuild or replace the community buildings, buy fuel for generators, and other communal items.
Kava (yaqona)
Kava (also called yaqona) is an integral part of Fijian culture. It comes from the roots of the pepper plant, which are ground to a powder in a sort of giant pestle and mortar. Then (this is where it gets a bit disgusting!) it goes into what looks to foreign eyes like an old tea towel, water is poured on/squeezed through to a certain strength – and when the whole thing looks just like muddy dish water, guess what? You get to drink it!
And if you think that’s bad enough, in the past the roots were first chewed by young women to soften them prior to the addition of water!). It is mildly narcotic and has a numbing effect on lips and tongue. The locals call it ‘grog’ and it is widely drunk throughout Fiji and other South Pacific countries. Only recently have the Fijian Police been banned from drinking it while on duty!
They will sit cross-legged on specially woven mats around the kava bowl – frequently, but not always, a special wooden bowl which may be beautifully carved and of some antiquity – and pass the stuff round in a half coconut shell.
I know some of these photos are duplicated, but it is worth pointing out the color of the liquid!
Experiencing Sevusevu and Kava
The first few sevusevu ceremonies we attended were the short version where we were not asked or required to share in the kava consumption. Must admit that we were mildly relieved as we had much anticipation around drinking muddy water.
Waitui Marina hosted a Fiji night where we could “try” kava in the safety of our cruiser friends (and not offend the chief’s or headmen). So, several of us brave girls gave it a try (most of the men abstained-chicken $hits that they are!) But look at our faces after the drink.
As it turned out, it was not “that bad.” Your lips and mouth get a little numb but that is about it.
The interesting thing is that Fijians don’t drink liquor, wine, or beer. In the outer villages it is frowned upon. They just consume their “grog.” There is no “drunk effect” but there is a quiet euphoria. We were told that most men don’t start drinking it until early twenties. Yes, some “try” it at the age of 15/16, but they are not required to sit in sevusevu until their 20’s.
Evidently, it takes consuming it daily for a few weeks before you get to the true euphoric state. Once there, you have to continue to consume it otherwise you will have a wretched hang over 10x worse than from drinking (we are told).
Did you catch Part I of Fijian Culture? We share the Fijian tradition of clothing, language, and lovo. Events from this blog occurred around the end of June. Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual events.