Monthly Archives: October 2025

NZ Bound #3 1082 nm till quality craft brews

22 boats left Wednesday, we waited another day when only 5 boats left. What did we miss? We heard on the SSB that there was champagne sailing out there, so in search of that we go.

Looks a bit sporty?

We are now just about 12 hours into the journey and if we had any champagne it certainly would be shook up and have lost all its great effervescence.

We had a Mexican night onboard, enchiladas and rice, and a salt covered boat, just missing the rest of the margarita.

Still searching for champagne.

Cheers, All well onboard, at least another day of bouncing along.

Passage Planning: Fiji to NZ

Passage planning is all about preparation and weather. A good passage is one that has favorable weather conditions.  Good conditions include consistent, steady winds at 12-18kts, seas below 1 meter in long increments, no squalls or storms, low cape and low barometer.

Note: For the next 7-8 days we will be LIVE blogging.

Weather, weather, weather!  It can be your friend and your foe.  We live our life watching the weather daily.  Does the wind shift? Will the swell wrap around the island? Is there rain in the forecast? 

We purchased the professional / premium plan for Predict Wind which allows us to enter our boat polars, plan routes, and receive detailed passage forecasts. 

This software, along with feedback from professional weather routers, rally participants, and other sailors, provides us with the valuable information we need to do accurate passage planning.

This particular passage, Fiji to NZ, is very challenging.  We will have to sail across 20 degrees of latitude between two weather systems.  This is an extremely formidable and demanding stretch of ocean.

Well over 100 boats will make this same journey this year. But we will only be sailing with a handful.

The Strategy

We take this passage very seriously, despite this being our 3rd time making this journey. 

The basic strategy is pretty well known.  You leave Fiji on the back side of a high (front) usually in crappy conditions.  You do this so that you can arrive New Zealand before the next low in relatively benign conditions. 

The systems near NZ change frequently and dramatically and tend to be more extreme.

sv Roam wrote an excellent blog post, a lot more thorough and detailed explanation on weather. I highly recommend this descriptive read.

This is what a typical and pretty good weather routing or passage plan looks like on Predict Wind.  We are starting at Fiji (top of the page) and ending in NZ (bottom).  The colors indicate the severity of the wind.

Preparations

There are numerous preparations that go into passage planning.  You’d think we’d have this down after sailing over 70,000 nautical miles and visiting over 33 countries.  But each passage and each country has its own unique preparations.

First of all, there is lots and lots of paperwork!  So much paperwork!

  • Paperwork
    • Departure paperwork for Fiji
      • Schedule appointment with officials
      • C2C Outward Report Form
      • Statement by Master Form
      • Photographs of boat (bow, stern, port, starboard)
      • Crew change Form
      • Crew List
      • Copies of Fiji entry paperwork, boat paperwork, and all passports
    • Entry paperwork for New Zealand
      • Apply online for an NZeTA (temporary visa) for each crew
      • Apply online for Traveler Declaration for each crew
      • Apply online for a Customs Number (Client Code) which gives us Duty Free purchases
      • Submit the Advanced Notice of Arrival Form
      • Submit the C4G Form
      • Appy for T.I.E. (Temporary Import Entry) which allows us to bring the boat into NZ
      • Crew change form
      • Bio Management Plan (6 page document detailing our hull cleaning/maintenance)
        • Provide photographic and video proof of cleanliness of the bottom of the boat including all niche areas (props, thru hulls, rudder, daggerboards, etc…)
    • Submit a Float plan for family, friends, and emergency contacts

Additional Preparation:

  • Pre-cook passage meals and freeze 
    • We made enough food for 3 people for 10 days (that’s a lot of food)
      • Eggplant parmesan
      • Chicken enchiladas
      • Chicken chow mien
      • Gumbo
      • Mongolian Chicken
      • Pasta de la casa (with a nice spice pasta with meat)
      • Chicken wontons
      • Gingerbread cookies
      • Chocolate Pumpkin Cookies
      • English Muffins
      • (3) bread doughs
  • Stow all valuables and breakables
  • Safety gear: put out and make accessible:
    • First aid medical kit, ditch bag, jackline, PFDs, foul weather gear 
  • Reservations at Marsden Cove Marina (where we clear into the country) and Town Basin Marina where we will stay after we arrive
  • Change window shade covers from sunbrella to Phifertex (to allow us to see out better)
  • Convert office cabin into sleeping cabin (for crew)
  • Separate “declared foods” and items to present to biosecurity upon arrival
  • Courtesy Flag: NZ and Quarantine Flag get out and make accessible
  • Clean bottom of the boat (every 5 days, 2 people, 2 hours)

Safety

  • Passage Guardian
    • File a float plan and sign up for passage guardian services
  • Island Cruising Pacific Rally
    • Land support
  • Gulf Harbor Radio
    • Daily check in with position reports and status report
  • Onshore support
    • Our very good friend, Donald tracks us while we are underway and provides weather and onshore support

Communications

We have multiple communications options.  We primarily rely on Starlink as this gives us access to the internet regardless of where we are in the world (even when we are in the middle of the ocean).  However, we do not leave this on 24/7 as it draws a lot of power.  

We’ve had our Starlink fail during a passage last year. So, we have always had communication back up plans.

  • Starlink gives us access to the internet anywhere in the world.  Starlink has been a game changer for us.  It allows us to get weather, check emails, and surf the web in the middle of the ocean, thousands of miles from shore.  However, it has been known to fail.
  • IridiumGo set up which gives us short text messages, short emails (no photos or attachments), and a few phone calls.  This can only be used in emergencies and cannot be used to surf the web.
  • SSB (HF radio) onboard.  This Single Sideband Radio can reach as far as 6,000 miles away.  We can use this to contact shoreside support.  We check in with the Gulf Harbor Radio daily through our SSB radio.  We can also get weather updates if Starlink and IridiumGo fail.
  • VHF Radio:  We also have a standard VHF radio which can reach other vessels within 24 miles of us.

As you can see there are loads of things we do to prepare for a passage.  All we can do is hope and pray that all of our resources, experts, and information is accurate enough to give us a safe passage.

We depart Fiji on 16 October 2025 heading for Marsden Cove Marina, New Zealand.  

In our last blog post we explore the beautifully authentic, old capital of Levuka.

Masonic Lodge, Levuka

Levuka, Fiji’s Old Capital

We really wanted to visit Levuka, Fiji’s first capital.  However, the anchorage is completely exposed offering very little protection.  So, instead we decided to hire a car from Rukuruku Bay to take us to Levuka for the day.

There is a lot packed into this blog as we share a little history and a lot of monuments and historic remnants from the old capital.

Levuka History

Levuka was once Fiji’s capital and a bustling town. Now, when you visit it is a trip back in time and untouched by mass tourism.  It is Fiji as it used to be in the old days.

UNESCO declared the entire town of Levuka as a World Heritage site in 2013. For being “an outstanding example of late 19th century Pacific port settlements, reflects the integration of local building traditions by a supreme naval power, leading to the emergence of a unique landscape“.

It is believed that traders and settlers founded this town as early as 1830.  Levuka was the first European settlement in the Pacific Islands.

In the 19th century merchants, ships, and sailors arrived turning this into a thriving,  rowdy, and lawless place.

In 1874, the King of Fiji ceded the islands to the Queen and Fiji became a British colony. Law and order took over and the first Fiji school was built.

The rugged mountains surrounding the town prevented economic growth.  The government decided to relocate the capital to Suva in 1882.

Levuka was Fiji’s capital from 1874 to 1883.

Fiji’s old capital is famous for a lot of “firsts” including:

  • First Bank
  • Post Office
  • School opened in 1879
  • Private Member’s club
  • Hospital
  • Town Hall
  • Municipal Government
  • Newspaper (1869): Fiji Times which is still in print today
  • Hotel: Levuka’s Royal Hotel (oldest hotel still in operation)

Levuka is a tropical volcanic island surrounded by coral reefs.  Approximately 8,000 residents live on Ovalu with 25% of them living in Levuka.

Main Street in the Old Capital

Beach Street is the main street in Levuka. This historical town has ancient buildings and store fronts that line the beach community.  Many of the storefronts are original or remodeled fronts existing in the late 1800’s.  

The Bank of New South Whales, Morris Hedstrom, and Gulabdas & Sons were all original, renovated store fronts with new businesses thriving inside them today.

Westpac bank has taken over the Bank of New South Whales.  It seemed so strange to see the 1909 storefront with ATMs below it.

Morris Hedstrom converted the old market into a modern grocery store. Originally built in 1878.

Historical Monuments in Levuka

There are two war memorials in downtown Levuka.  The Fiji War memorial and the European War Memorial.

The Fiji War Memorial in Levuka is a solemn tribute to the nation’s soldiers who served in various conflicts.  The site features plaques and monuments detailing the heroic deeds of Fijian soldiers, ensuring their stories are preserved.

The European War Memorial is dedicated to Fijians who perished during WWI.

The Ruins of the Masonic Lodge

The Masonic Lodge organization was originally created in 1871.  It took several years to raise funds and build the meeting space, the Masonic Lodge in 1913. The Roman architecture stuck out as unusual amongst the other British buildings in town.

In 2000, a small group of locals set fire to the historic building, destroying most of its structure.

However, in December 2024, the University of Fiji reopened the Masonic Lodge remnants  as a Garden of Peace.

Deed of Cession

Fijians erected the deed of cession to honor the place where Fiji became a British colony on Oct. 20, 1874.

This memorial includes a cession stone indicating the spot where 13 Fijian Chiefs ceded Fiji to Britain.  Two additional stones, a flagpole and 4 anchors mark Prince Charles’s visits for centenary and independence celebrations.

Locals built a large bure (Fijian traditional house) in 1970 for Prince Charles when he visited Fiji during Independence celebrations.  It replaced another earlier bure which King George V stayed in when he visited Levuka as a young Duke in the 1890s.

Historic Remnants

Ovalau Club is Fiji’s very first private members club. It is the oldest social organization in the South Pacific; a living reminder of Levuka’s colonial past.

Fijians built the Royal Hotel in 1860. It was well-known as one of the finest accommodations in Fiji. 

The hotel comes complete with a widows tower (turret like structure) where sailors could check on sea conditions.  Many notable people stayed here back in its prime.

Sailors Home is a small version of a B&B for sailors. Built by a ship’s captain in 1860 so sailors could keep a watchful eye on their ships in the anchorage.

199 Steps to Mission Hill.  As you climb the 199 steps you pass by some of the oldest buildings in Levuka.

Sacred Heart Catholic Church

Sacred Heart Catholic Church is a prominent architectural site built in the late 1850’s.  Early on, the church’s 24 meter tower doubled as a lighthouse.

Levuka is home to St. John the Baptist Catholic Church with beautiful architecture. 

The locals are preparing to paint both the church’s interior and exterior.

The Bishop’s Tomb is the final resting place of Fiji’s first Catholic Bishop and his successor.

Old German Cemetery

We find a small cemetery and David Whippy Memorial  just off the main road.

Interesting Links:

  • Levuka’s History: www.levukafiji.com/about-levuka
  • Things to do in Levuka: www.levukafiji.com/activities-levuka-ovalau 
  • https://fijiguide.com/destination-fiji/levuka/levuka-activities-attractions/ 
  • www.fiji.travel/places-to-go/outer-islandslomaiviti-lau/locations/best-historical-sites-to-visit-in-levuka 
  • Lekuva on No Foreign Land

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We explored Levuka toward the end of July 2025.

We adventure in Rukuruku Bay, Ovalau.  A local family adopts us and we hike to a lookout and waterfall in our last blog post.