Category Archives: Fiji

Fulanga and the Cave of Bones

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Matt and I make another overnight sail from Bavatu to Fulanga (which is also known as Fulanga and Vulaga / Vulanga).  It is only a 100nm sail but we have to time the exit from Bavatu pass and the entry to the Fulanga pass during slack tide which makes it an overnight.

The sail was relatively easy as it started with 17-18kts of wind from the NE giving us a tremendous boat speed of 8-9kts.  We kept enjoying the fast speeds as we knew we would lose the wind later in the day.  About 6 hours later the wind dropped to 8-9kts and then it dropped even lower to 5-6kts.  We did our best to squeak miles out under sail before it got to slow forcing us to turn an engine on.  We arrived just as planned at 0700 which was perfect timing for the pass.  We were traveling with 3 other boats and we all entered with no problems.

The Village

After securing a prime spot for anchoring, we all headed into the village to do our sevusevu (a requirement).  We all brought out sulu (which is a parero / sarong) and our bundle of kava (which the locals make into a drink) and dinghied 20-minutes across the lagoon to the landing.  We tied the dinghy up, removed our hats, put on our sulu and followed the path to the village (a 20-25-minute walk).  Along the way we met many villagers who each stopped, shook our hand and introduced themselves.  So friendly!

We do a short version of Sevusevu because the men are holding a village meeting.  They offer us kava to drink, but we declined as it was a huge crowd and huge bowl of kava and we did not want to try it for the first time with an audience.

After we present our gifts of kava and $50F (for community repairs and support), we are introduced to our host family.  Our host family, Nico and Lucy offer us ridiculously hot tea and cakes and tell us about the village.

There are two villages within walking distance of each other.  Each village has an “Artisan Market.”  Evidently all the men are wood carvers and they give it to the market to sell to help provide for the village.  I purchased a pretty floral bowl, a small carved turtle and a hammerhead tooth (for Jake Martin).

Cave of Bones

There are many things to enjoy in Fulanga, but a must see is the “Cave of Bones.”  We ask our host family if we can go see this cave and visit one of the lookout points.  They arrange for a guide (as they are older and cannot take us themselves).  Our guide is the host family for one of our cruising friends so we all go together.  Balé is very sweet and takes his time walking us up the rocky terrain.  It is a short, but super steep hike up the mountain.  We walked 4.3 miles, went up about 23 floors and managed about 12k steps.

The cave opening is a wee bit small that you have to climb into.  It is surrounded by lava rock which tends to snag your clothing and skin.

Inside the cave are lots of skulls, femurs, and other miscellaneous bones.  Matt decided one skull looked better with his hat and glasses.

It was kind of cool yet super creepy to hold the skulls in your hand.  They seemed so very small to me.

Of course, you have to have a skull and cross bones image too.

Another short, steep hike up the hill to the look out and it was well worth the effort.  One view overlooks the anchorage and the overlooks the two villages.

Here is our group of hikers, Matt and I and our friends on Rapture, Greg and Susan.

The Anchorage

Like many of the other Lao group islands, Fulanga has many towering rocks that jet out of the sea to the sky.  They are covered with palm trees and bushes and completely break up the lagoon.

We find a beautiful spot to anchor away from the other boats, but close enough to our friends that we can dinghy over for dinner.

This sign made me laugh…it is located outside the medical clinic (read the last line)

Dinner on Anima

We met some new friend and old friends (whom we know from French Polynesia) and had dinner onboard Anima.  It was “Rapture”, “Sea Jay”, and “Anima”.  Manuel and Thomas prepared a traditional Portuguese meal with some fresh fish they caught!

We enjoy a Fijian celebration of “lovo” at the bay of Bavatu after hiking 271 steps!  This blog occurred end of June.  Our blog posts are 10-12 weeks after actual events occurred. 

Bavatu Anchorage

Bavatu Bay in Northern Lao

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We really did not want to leave the unique and mystifying Bay of Islands, but some of our friends had arranged for a Lovo (Fijian underground BBQ) and we did not want to miss it.  So, we head over to the NorthEast side of Vanua Balavu to a new anchorage called Bavatu.

We discovered that there is a beautiful look out over this bay, Bavatu and the Bay of Islands.  So, we make our way to the end of the anchorage. We tie the dinghy up to a dock and find the hand-made 271 step stair case.  Not all the steps are even, or the same distance from the next, or nailed all the way in.  But, there is a railing, and they get you to where you need to go!  The record for fastest run up the stairs is 53 seconds!

Once you reach the top, you walk through a field until you get to the care takers village which consisted of 8 small houses and a community center.  After you walk through the village, you cross over another huge field (for the cows), until you get to a small dirt path.  You follow this path until it goes up hill, then you turn at the “grave site” (yes, there is a grave here) and then the view takes your breath away!

The top photos show the village and one of the wooded paths, the center and bottom right are the beautiful views and the bottom left is the grave site.

Across the field are the houses of the two plantation owners.  Tony lives in the big white house where his family has lived for generations and hundreds of years!  I took photos of both houses from the top and from the anchorage.

We came across a lot of their animals.  They had a heard of cows, sheep and horses.  Lots of beautiful birds and butterflies fluttered about too.

LOVO – FIJIAN BBQ

The locals caught, cleaned and prepared the sheep early in the morning.  They put the sheep and sides underground to cook for several hours before serving.  The food is placed in baskets made of palm fronds, then placed on hot stones.  They are covered with more palm fronds, then plastic, more palm fronds, then dirt.

Each boat brought a side or desert and the feast commenced!

Everyone is supposed to jump off the little deck but I did not have my bathing suit on.  So, Matt jumped for the both of us.

It was lovely to spend the afternoon with other cruisers and the locals of Bavatu.  Tasty Fijian food, local music and lots of laughter.

We so loved our time at Bay of Islands in Vanua Balavu in our last blog.  This blog occurred in late June 2022.  Our blogs run 10-12 weeks behind actual events.  Thanx for reading!

Vana Balavu Bay of Islands

Vanua Balavu: The Lao Group

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We spent 3 days in Savusavu and had not planned on leaving anytime soon. However, a weather window opened up for us to go East which is really difficult to do as the winds usually come from the East.  So, we decided to take it and make the overnight passage to Vanua Balavu.

Yea, another overnight passage just 3 days after we arrived.  Suck it up buttercup!   It is only 100nm which should technically only take 20 hours, but the wind is supposed to be light so we left earlier than necessary.

We leave Savusavu around 0930 in light winds and end up motoring for the first 4 hours.  Great.  Around 1330 we get enough wind to raise the sails and turn the motors off.  Sweet.  It is flat seas, gentle conditions, and light winds.  Time to do some laundry and boat projects!  I squeeze in two loads of laundry while Matt works on shims for the dagger boards.

I also unearth my sea shell collection and artwork that were tastefully placed in areas out of sight and restore them to their normal places of honor around the boat.  Starting to feel like my home again.

The Winds

The winds pick up and give us some great boat speed at 7-8kts, but has us arriving at 0100-0200 which won’t work at all.  Matt and I decide to reef the main and the jib to slow the boat down for a daylight arrival. 

Then a few hours later a huge squall approaches and steals all the wind.  Literally the true wind read 1-2kts and we had 1k of boat speed.  You’ve got to be kidding.  We spent the next few hours trying to make the boat go in little to no wind before we finally acquiesced to turning on the engines. 

The rest of the night and early morning was a fight to use the sails and not the engines.  I think we motored more in this 100-mile trip than we did over the entire 1700+ mile trip across the Pacific! 

The Top left chart shows Vanua Levu (top left) and the red arrow is us at Vanua Balavu.  The bottom chart shows the close up of Vanua Balavu

Vanua Balavu

We enter the NW pass and maneuvered Sugar Shack through the pass to a beautiful protected anchorage in the Bay of Islands.

Bay of Islands at Vanua Balavu

Bay of Islands at Vanua Balavu

There are several boats hidden in different coves and bays here, but because there are so many small islands you do not see them.  I think there are 20 boats and we only see 2 which is lovely.

This is truly a majestic place!  These beautifully covered towers jet out from the sea creating a marvelous maze, thus giving this bay the name “Bay of island.”

It is amazing to me how bushes, plants, and trees grow out of the rock.  Don’t they need dirt and water?

We take several dinghy exploration trips weaving in and out of lagoons, behind islands, around pillars of towering rocks, and in little caverns.

We find lots of little alcoves with sandy beaches just waiting to be written on.

We also explore by SUP where we can get over shallow reefs, in little nooks and crannies…

And under rock bridges…

We share with you Fijian Culture and protocols in our last blog.  Keep in mind that our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual events.  Events from this blog occurred mid-to-late June 2022.