Fiji is rich in culture and tribal protocols. On the main islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu you have more “modern” or progressive attitudes, but you still have to follow certain guidelines. Fijian Culture is a source of pride for all locals in all villages and across all islands.
One of the biggest changes is our attire. Living on the boat for the past 6 years has given me certain freedoms including living in shorts, tank tops, and bathing suits. None of which are “acceptable” in Fijian culture. Especially since my shorts are Lulu Lemon (which tend to be short shorts).
Fijians are very conservative by nature. Exposing too much skin is considered offensive (especially in the outer islands). In fact, public nudity and topless sunbathing are both illegal!
Attire
The “head” is considered sacred in the Fijian culture so they do not allow hats or sunglasses on your head. It is forbidden to touch a chief, pastor, or elder on the head. Backpacks can be carried (by hand) or over one shoulder. They cannot be carried over your back (I am not sure why, but that is the rule so we hand carry our backpack aka my purse).
Men are always required to wear shirts and sulus (sarong) when being presented to the chief, in church, and in villages located in the outer islands.
Women are required to cover their shoulders down to their knees. A t-shirt with short sleeves or long sleeves is acceptable. Below the waist, we wear sulus (sarongs) tied and covering skin down below the knees. It is basically a long skirt which makes walking around a fun challenge.
When we present Sevusevu (see next blog) we have to sit on hand woven mats on the floor and our knees have to be constantly covered by our sulu.
Once you understand the protocol it is easy to comply (and actually kind of fun). As newbies we simply purchased a sarong, but then we later discovered there are specific sulus that have side ties and pockets making it much easier to wear and keep on your body.
Language and pronunciation
The great thing about Fiji is that they speak English. Almost everyone will speak some English (even the chiefs in the outer islands). When they speak to each other, they speak Fijian. Lucky for us there is a quick and easy way to learn some of the pronunciations.
| “c” is “th” as in Mamanuca | Pronounced “Mamanutha” |
| “d” is “nd” as in Nadi | Prpnounced “Nandi” |
| “b” is “mb” as in Ba | Pronounced “Mba” |
| “g” is “ng” as in Galoa | Pronounced “Ngaloa” |
| “q” is “gg” as in Beqa | Pronounced “Bengga” |
French frustrated us beyond belief for the last 3 years. We tried desperately to learn, we downloaded several language apps and programs but we could not get our tongues to pronounce the French words properly. We gave up and just learned some of the local language (Mangeraven, Marquesan, and Tahitian).
With the Fijian language you just have to remember the 5 quirks and you can pretty much be understood. Of course, the locals have a bit of an accent and when they speak fast it all goes over our heads. But we try which makes them happy.
Lovo
A wonderful Fijian cultural event is the “lovo.” For celebrations, Fijians will prepare a lovo which is their way of cooking food on hot rocks buried under ground. The men dig a large hole in the ground and the place dried coconut husks on the bottom. The husks are then covered with black volcanic rocks. They light the husks on fire and allow them to burn until the rocks are white-hot. The group then removes the husks leaving the burning hot rocks to fill the bottom of the hole.
The next step is to cover the rocks with a lattice work of green palm shoots. The food is placed on top of the palm shoots, then covered with coconut fronds. The whole thing is covered in a few inches of dirt and left to bake while everyone goes about their business (church). No electricity, no cooking gas, no pots or pans, just what is readily available on the island.
The men cook the main course (pig, chicken, or sheep) along with cassava and taro root (starch). Then they place the food on in specially woven baskets made of green palm fronds or shoots. Then the food cooks this way for 3-4 hours and comes out tender and juicy infused with the flavors of the coconut and banana.
The women cook the fish and the men cook the rest (during a lovo ceremony).
Women serve the meal on top of a special woven mat on the floor. We use our fingers to eat our meals as utensils are not readily available in the outer islands.
We have attended several variations of lovo and it has been a blessing. Each time is unique and different and offers its on special cultural feature.
Don’t Miss out
Check back with us next week as we continue with Part II of the Fijian Culture. We share with you the tradition of sevusevu and kava root (where we drink “muddy water”).
In our last blog we give you some history on Fiji. The events in the blog post above occurred around the end of June. Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual events.
