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Farerei Haga_Team Tiki Tiki

Rangiroa Festival: Farerei Haga

Le Maire, Julien Mai of Makatea told us about the Rangiroa festival called Farerei Haga.  The festival was scheduled to start in mid-September.  We had missed the majority of the Heiva festival in July.  So, I really wanted to attend part of this festival, even though it would be much smaller.

Fishing Competition

Sugar Shack was anchored right outside the commune area where the majority of the events were being held.  We went ashore and were able to see a lot of events.  The first event we watched was the spear fishing while free diving results.  Each competitor brought their catch to shore.  The fish were categorized, weighed and strung together.  Winners were based on quantity, weight, and we think difficulty to shoot.

Fish caught by spear fisherman

Fish caught by spear fisherman

We also watched the sport fisherman bring in their catch:

Sport fisherman catch

Sport fisherman catch

All the fish from both events were sold to benefit the games.

Outrigger Races

While on board Sugar Shack we watched the two different outrigger races.  First were the solo outriggers.  They were so extremely fast right out the gate. The competitors went right in front of Sugar Shack, around an orange marker and back to the docks.

The next race was the 6-man team outriggers.  The winner paddled for an hour traveling across the shore, out a few miles, back to Avatoru and back to the dock. The teams were closely followed by spectator boats making it hard to see the outriggers.  They are between the shore and the fishing boats.

Solo Outrigger Event

Solo Outrigger Event

The outriggers are crudely made, but somehow withstand the power of 6 Tahitians catapulting them through the waters.

6-Man Outrigger Canoes

6-Man Outrigger Canoes

The competitors for Farerei Haga are all locals living in Rangiroa.  We are thinking they do this competition to determine who will represent them at the larger inter island festivals.

Coconut Javelin Toss

Matt had really wanted to watch the coconut javelin toss.  We heard about this sport while we were in the Gambiers, but had never watched it.  Each competitor builds their own javelins (between 12-15) that are clearly marked.

Javelins for coconut toss

Javelins for coconut toss

The competitors make their poles out of a light wood with spears on the end (made of rebar).  Colorful tape holds the spears onto the pole.  They are aiming for a coconut that has been wedged on a metal pole 15 meters up in the sky.  The officials mark the coconut into 4 sections.  The top section is worth 10 points, the next section is worth 8, the next is worth 6 and the bottom is worth 4.  The goal is not only to hit the coconut but to hit it near the top for the most points.

Women’s Competition Javelin Toss

We watched the women first.  They take one of their very light and wobbly poles and get into position.  I befriended the woman in black only to realize she is the reining champion.  And boy did she prove it today!  I tried to capture her incredible toss below.

In position, then balance on pointer finger, then pull back for a throw, and then full release.

Women's Javelin Contest

Women’s Javelin Contest

She was the only one that hit the coconut in almost every round.  The officials pulled the pole down to determine where the coconut was hit after each 5 minute round.

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Check out the photo below as it shows just how difficult it is to excel in this sport.  The top photo shows a javelin just above another stuck one and barely missing the coconut.

Near misses

Near misses

We did not stay to watch the men as the women’s event took forever.  But we did go back to look at the coconuts.  We found this one that had been 8 times!  Can you see the holes?

Coconut hit 8 times

Coconut hit 8 times

Dancing and Drums: Highlight of Farerei Haga 

A successful Farerei Haga festival would not be complete without dancing and drums. We witnessed two nights of competition and it was spectacular.

Team Tiki Tike Dancing

Team Tiki Tike Dancing

As the women shacked their hips, the men squatted and did a in/out movement with their legs.  The dancers thighs had to be killing them.

Team Tiki Tiki

Team Tiki Tiki

The final night was for the soloist to shine.  Each team had their own drum line and one male and one female dancer performed.

Solos from the dance competition

Solos from the dance competition

Team Tiki Tiki won the dance competition along with their drum line and the female soloist.  I can’t wait to learn how to move like them!

Sporting Events for Farerei Haga:

  • Soccer
  • Outrigger races (solo and 6-man teams)
  • Spear Fishing while free fiving
  • Sport Fishing
  • Bacchi Ball
  • Soccer
  • Coconut Javelin throwing
  • Coconut races (carrying pole with many coconuts on your shoulder)
  • Triathlon
  • Dancing
  • Drumming
  • Ukulele
  • Basket Weaving
  • Heavy Lifting of boulders

Unexpected Help

One time we went ashore and received help from a very sweet young man.  As we pulled up to the concrete dock, a little boy around 3-3.5 years old came up and reached for our painter (the line we tie up to docks).  I looked at him curiously, unable to speak French.  Matt said hand him the line, so I did.  He was so darn cute, he took the bitter end and wrapped it a BUNCH around a cleat.  We usually don’t use the bitter end as the painter is really long.  So, Matt took the center part of the line and tied a bowline leaving his knots as is.  

Little dock helper

Little dock helper

Sugar Shack at Tiputa Anchorage

Rangiroa, the 2nd Largest Atoll in the World

The weather gave us a nice window to get from Tikehau to Rangiroa.  It was a bit of a challenge to schedule our exit out of the Tikehau pass to the entrance of the Rangiroa pass during slack tide.  On top of that we had to calculate the approximate sailing time to get from one atoll to the other.  Not hard, just challenging.  The best time to leave and enter any pass is during slack tide.  Tikehau’s slack tide was at 1700 and Rangiroa’s was at 0800.  Which left us 15 hours to make 50 nm.  Typically, we could have made this passage during the day in about 9 hours.  However, the slack tides forced us to make the passage at night.

We had very little wind so we decided to just go with the flow.  This is a very typical sailor thing to do.  However, this is not typical for Matt and I.  Usually, we turn the engines on if we are going less than 3-4 kts.  But, since we were in no hurry we ran the jib and one engine at 1200 rpm.  

We managed to arrive in front of the pass at 0730 and decided to hang out for 30 minutes.  It was the first time we had timed the pass accurately.  It went smoothly and we dropped the hook near the Tiputa village.

Passage Details

Miles Traveled: 50.1 nm

Duration: 14.5 hrs 

Avg. Speed:  3.5 kt

Max Speed:  5 kt

Wind Speed:  3-8 kt SE

Sugar Shack at the Tiputa anchorage in front of the Kia Oro Resort.  They so graciously (unbeknownst to them) gave us their internet during our stay 🙂

Anchorage at Tiputa Village, Rangiroa

Anchorage at Tiputa Village, Rangiroa

Little Bit About Rangiroa

Rangiroa is the largest and the most populous atoll in the Tuamotus.  In addition it is considered the 2nd largest atoll in the world.  It has two villages, Avatoru and Tiputa that are located on separate, but connected motus. 

Rangiroa was discovered in 1616 by the Dutch, which is approximately 150 years before Tahiti.  It has a rather large lagoon at 45 nm long by 18 nm wide.    The atoll consists of about 415 motus, islets and sandbars.  Strung together in the ocean for more than 110 miles, completely encircling a deep lagoon

There are close to 2,600 Tahitians that live on this motu.  Which makes it the greatest population in this remote region.  There are only two passes that grant access to the interior lagoon.  Each town is located near a pass and the airport is located in between.

Rangiroa is quite possibly the world’s most immense natural aquarium. Blessed with an accessible yet secluded appeal and a large abundant lagoon, this is a renowned destination for diving.

12-Mile Bike Ride Around the Island

We rented bikes and cruised around, across 3 motus and over 8 bridges. It is a 5-mile route from Tiputa to Avatoru if you follow the main road.  Of course Matt and I went off roading a lot, stopping at many beaches and several magasins for cold beverages.

Exploring Rangiroa

Exploring Rangiroa

We found many gorgeous spots along the way.

Picturesque Spot

Picturesque Spot

A beautiful church made of coral and monument made of pearl shells.

Church on Rangiroa

Church on Rangiroa

Stop at a local pension (hotel)

Kia Ora Resort

Kia Ora Resort

Snorkeling the Aquarium

Just inside the Tiputa pass is a protected coral garden called the aquarium.  The local government has added wonderful informational signs underwater. It is a popular tourist destination, so we planned our stop around the down times.

Station 1 explains about the reef formations:

Station 1 Underwater Garden

Skyline Trilogy

The 2nd Station talks about the sea life

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On Station 3 it shares the relationship between the fish and coral

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Station 4 explains the fragility of the coral

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With Station 5 it explains how corals grow

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Station 6 talks about the communications between small fish and large fish

Station 6 Underwater Garden

Station 6 Underwater Gardengarden

More Things to See in Rangiroa:

  • Blue Lagoon
  • Dolphin Dancing Show
  • Pink sand beaches
  • Reef Island

We named this boat the mullet (business in the front and party in the back)

The Mullet

The Mullet

We had lots of little squalls come through, but we were often rewarded with a rainbow.

Rainbow in Rangiroa

Rainbow in Rangiroa

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

The Tuamotu Archipelago

The Tuamotus archipelago is the widest of the five French Polynesia archipelagos.  Makatea and the 4 Gambier islands are the only high islands.  However, the remaining 83 motus or atolls are not actually islands.  Only 6% (roughly 19,000) of the Tahitian population live in this region, which is surprising considering it has the most islands and covers the widest area.

Tuamotus (Image from Google Images)

Tuamotus (Image from Google Images)

This region is famous for its colorful and perfect pearls (Gambiers).  However, its first quality is the purity and wealth of the underwater world.

The Tuamotus were named “the dangerous archipelago” because of their hazardous passes and abundant coral heads “bombies.”  The first European settlers aptly named the region because of the immense risks it presented to the ships during that era.  Alternatively, today, many vessels visit the area thanx to navigational charts and Google Earth.

Google Earth will give you high level images of the archipelago. As well as many other images (as you know).

Google Earth Image of Tuamotus

Google Earth Image of Tuamotus

In addition, you can zoom in to see a particular region.

Google Earth Islands

Google Earth Islands

Alternatively, you can zoom in to see a specific motu.  You can even zoom in enough to see the coral heads.

Google Earth image of Tikehau

Google Earth image of Tikehau

The archipelago is divided into the Western and Eastern islands.  The western islands were discovered long before the Society Islands.  The Spanish navigators discovered them in 1605 and then the Dutch in 1616.  However, despite these discoveries, it took an additional 230 years for the world to learn about this archipelago.  The whaling captains plowed through these seas refusing to talk about them.  Probably trying to protect their fishing zones. Because discovering an island was not a priority.

Easter Tuamotus

Explorers left the Eastern Tuamotus mostly undiscovered.  That is until the The French Government decided to put the Centre d’essai du Pacific Experimentation Center (CEP) in these atolls in 1960.  Which is just a fancy name for nuclear testing facility.  These tests continued for 33 years before it was shut down in 1996.

By way of example, a typical Tuamotu island will look like the photo below.  In particular, with a reef surrounding the motus and a lagoon in the center.

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

Islands we have already visited in the Tuamotus (as of 22 Sept. 2019)

  • Hao
  • Makatea
  • Tikehau
  • Rangiroa
  • Hao

Islands we hope to visit in the Tuamotus:

  • Apataki
  • Kauehi
  • Fakarava
  • Tahanea
  • Makemo
  • Ahe
  • Amanu
  • Manehi

Considering the above list, if we were to hit all of those islands, we would have visited all of the passable atolls in the Tuamotus.  The fact that it is the largest archipelago, that is a huge feat.