Category Archives: Locations

Places around the world

Sugar Shack in Puaumu

Parte in Puaumu with Polynesians

Puaumu is in the NE corner of the Gambiers. We had to cross over unchartered areas with a look out on the bow to keep the boat clear of coral bommies.  We arrived on a beautiful, calm day with no swell, light winds and perfect conditions.  Not many cruisers or locals visit this small, private, yet pristine island.

Puaumu in Gambiers

Puaumu in Gambiers

The first few days at this anchorage were just glorious.  We had the entire bay to ourselves and the water was like a glassy mirror of the sky.  The island of Puaumu is in the shape of a “C.”  The left side of the island or the north side is owned by my friend Stefan and his family.  The right side or the south is owned by another family.  Stefan and his family stayed here for 2 weeks during quarantine.  We had the pleasure of visiting them by dinghy and enjoyed a huge, delicious luncheon feast.

Playing in Puaumu

Smooth waters are just perfect for paddle boarding.  Typically, I paddle board on my knees or butt, but with these conditions I ventured on to my feet.  It was shaky at first, a little bob and weaving going on, but I finally got the hang of it.  Matt and I paddled around the anchorage, checked on the anchor, and admired the many fish around the coral heads.

There was one coral bommie directly under the boat.  Well, let’s be clear, it was not under the boat when we anchored.  When the wind changed, we shifted over the bommie.  As you can see, Matt is checking it out and we have clearance – even during low tide.

Matt broke out the drone and captured some amazing shots of Sugar Shack during sunset.  The dark splotchy marks in the water are coral bommies.

Sugar Shack at Puaumu -drone shot

Sugar Shack at Puaumu -drone shot

These are amazing shots too.  The top one shows the Pacific (lower portion of photo), Puaumu and the lagoon.  Sugar Shack at peace by herself and Mangareva in the background.  The center photo has Puaumu on the far right (off camera) and shows the furthest NE motu, Tepapuri in the background.  We can’t bring the big boat to that island, but we have explored it by dinghy.

THANKING WHO?

We had invited Stefan to stay onboard Sugar Shack for the weekend.  In part, as a thank you for hosting us for lunch a few weeks ago.  Stefan, his wife Manu and their friend Popo (or Nani) came by fishing boat Saturday afternoon and stayed until Sunday evening.  It truly was our intention to host them, to cook for them and to show them a marvelous time.  However, they came with boxes of food and drink to last well over a week!

For dinner, Stefan cooked 6 lbs of Mahi Mahi, chicken and sausage.  Plus, we had beet salad, fresh bread and salad.  For dessert I made avocado chocolate pudding which turned out divine.

Stefan Cooking up a storm

Stefan Cooking up a storm

Sunset was enjoyed at the bow of the boat.  Our guests had trepidations about the trampoline, but we eventually got them to walk on it.  Each square inch can hold up to 200lbs so there was no concern of breakage (no concern on our part). 

The next morning, I made blueberry pancakes, but Stefan insisted on cooking omelets for everyone as well.  In addition, we had cheesy bread, homemade guava preserves to go on more fresh bread, starfruit, and fresh squeezed juice.

We enjoyed a day of fun in the sun, swimming and playing cards.  Lunched was followed by more fresh fish on the grill, fresh bread, fruit, sushi which is actually called poison cru.

Stefan taking a giant leap

Stefan taking a giant leap

Super fun weekend turned out to be Stefan, Manu and Popo spoiling us with cooking, cleaning, and a few days of complete fun.

Coconut Hunting

On the small islands you have to make due with what you are given.  In some cases that is hunting for coconuts, but only on the islands or motus where there is no coconut harvesting of copra.  A coconut is handy for coconut water, coconut milk, coconut cake, and plain ole coconut.  I bet you didn’t know the little coconut could be so useful?  We scavenged for a long stick and started hunting.  Once we find a few green coconuts, we use our machete to hack into them and capture the yummy coconut water inside.

Coconut Hunting

Coconut Hunting

Beach BBQ on Puaumu

Several of our friends decided to join us in the anchorage.  After our Polynesian friends left, 4 boats joined us.  A little cruiser party in Puaumu.  One day we had a beach BBQ on the corner of the island.  It was Hoodoo (Yanell and Missy), Sea Jay (Chris and Fred), Kalea (Jaques and Elensie), and Storm Along (Lynette and Nils).

Beach BBQ

Beach BBQ

We had some gorgeous sunset shots.

After our tasty dinner, we sat around the fire chatting and enjoying the good company.

Puaumu is an absolutely pristine island with beautiful beaches, turquoise waters, and perfect views of sunset. 

Cinco de Mateo: Matt’s Birthday

Valerie played several Polynesian birthday songs over the VHF radio first thing in the morning on Cinco de Mateo (5 May).  Waking up to the beautiful melodies of the islands was a perfect way to start Matt’s birthday.  Sugar Shack remained anchored in Taravai longer than anticipated just so we could celebrate with Valerie, Herve and their family again (we were here last year for Matt’s birthday too).

We invited our friends at anchor, planned a mid-day BBQ and enjoyed a great Tuesday.  We landed onshore first and were eagerly greeted by Valerie.  She had made a typical Polynesian crown and leigh for Matt.  It was not only beautiful but incredibly fragrant.  He looked a little silly but he wore it all day (bless his heart).

It was great fun celebrating with all of our friends!

Chris and Fred onboard Sea Jay (American) and Ivar and Floris onboard LuciPara 2 (Dutch)

And the rest of the party crew…

And of course, Matt and I

Taravai Sunday Funday for Matt’s Birthday

Herve BBQ’d some pork ribs, made a tasty pork stew, and poison cru (raw fish dish).  We had tons of side dishes and I made cheesecake bites (with my last cream cheese) and a butter pecan cake.  Super fun.

Matt did the social distancing thing perfectly by NOT blowing out his candles.  He merely lifted the board that was blocking the wind.  We had happy birthday sung to us in multiple languages: English, Spanish, Tahitian, Mangarevian, French, and Dutch.

One of the local families brought pearls for everyone to consider. Gabriel has a pearl farm and a pension (hotel) in Rikitea.  He was so kind!  He gave three of us a few loose pearls.

All in all a great celebration on Matt’s birthday!

Celebrating in Taravai

We spent many afternoons celebrating our freedom after the quarantine.  All of the cruisers anchored at the Taravai village would go to shore to play volleyball and patonque.  It was a great way to get some exercise, get your heart rate up, and enjoy some community with others.  Thank goodness the locals who live here, Valerie, Herve and their kids Alan and Arique love hosting and playing games!

And lots of patonque

Many Happy Hours and Dinners

Everyone was celebrating happy hours and dinners.  Here is one of many nights  aboard fellow cruiser’s boats.  This one in particular was hosted by our friends Fred and Chris onboard Sea Jay.  They invited Valerie, Herve, Alan and Ariki to join us for a tasty pot luck.

ILOT MOTU-O-ARI

Located less than one nautical mile from Taravai is a little, uninhabited island called Moto O-Ari.  Last year we snorkeled on the southern side.  However, we never explored the little island.  With nothing but time on our hands, we had to remedy that situation.

We tied Sweetie up to a rock and tossed a stern anchor to hold her in place.  We scrambled up the rocky cliff and enjoyed a hike around the little island.  Sometimes there are paths cleared by other cruisers or locals.  Sometimes there is nothing but goat trails and sometimes there is nothing by wild.  This island was all wild.

We climbed over rocks, walked over dead coral, hiked up and down hills and hung off of trees as we walked all the way around the motu. 

Next, we wanted to conquer the two hills or large mounds.  They did not seem “that” tall but there were no paths.  So, it was hanging from cliffs by rock ledges or tree roots. Certainly, made it interesting.  We did have some pretty views of the bay.

Views from Motu - O Ari

Views from Motu – O Ari

Flour Celebrations

I know you are thinking, why would you celebrate getting flour?  Well, let me tell you.  Lots of baking went on at Sugar Shack.  We are not in the main island (where the village and markets are located) and have to bake our own bread.  What are we baking: English muffins, pizza dough, cookies, cake, brownies, banana muffins, and lots of bread.  All of these items require flour.

We had stock piled flour before we arrived in the Gambiers, thank goodness.  There has only been one delivery of flour over the last 3 months!  Yep, one delivery and it was small.  I was only able to procure 4 bags (1 kilo each) as no hording was allowed.  I was dangerously low and was sharing my woes with a fellow cruiser friend who helped me out.

My friend, Daniela who is fluent in French, worked with the local baker Phillipe.  He placed an order with his supplier in Tahiti.  However, his supplier was out of flour as well so they had to order it from outside the country.  Once the flour arrived to the supplier in Tahiti, it was placed on the supply ship and delivered to me in Gambiers in a 25 kilo bag (50lbs).   It took three parties, 3 delivery methods, and lots of help.  But, it was delivered for a grand total $15!  Both Matt and I were celebrating our huge score!  I spent the morning bagging and storing the flour in seal-able containers with bay leaves (to prevent weebles).