Happy New Year 2022

Polynesian New Year

Matt and I decided to ring in the New Year Polynesian style with our friends Valerie and Herve on Taravai.  They promised a Polynesian BBQ and we could not resist.

We have enjoyed plenty of Polynesian BBQs but we have never been around during the preparations.  So, this blog is me sharing the process with you so you can be a part of this cultural event too.

First, we prepped the property.  Valerie and Herve have a beautiful sandy beach, but it often gets cluttered with seaweed and leaves.  One group cleared the beach to properly welcome visitors and to create a space for fireworks.  Herve dug a hole and Tony chopped the wood.

Cleaning up Taravai

Cleaning up Taravai

Preparing the Polynesian Fire Pit

  • 1: After the hole is dug, all rocks, tree stumps, and leaves are removed leaving behind a clean, flat bottom in a round hole.
  • 2: Add coconut husks already prepped and torn apart
  • 3: Gather a pile of sticks
  • 4: Add dried palm fronds on top of the Coconut husks

  • 5: Add more coconut husks on top of the dried palm fronds
  • 6: Add more dried palm fronds on top of the dried coconut husks
  • 7: Add the sticks
  • 8: Add the blocks of wood

Then we add small river rocks and then the large river rocks.  The pit is ready to light in the morning.

The next morning, we light the Polynesian Fire pit.  After about 90 min more coconut husks are added.  Once everything has burned down (about 2 hours after the fire is lit), the pit is ready.

Food Prep

In the meantime, another group of us start to make the food baskets that will sit in the Polynesian fire pit.  Valerie teaches us how to weave the baskets together using fresh palm fronds.

Making the food baskets

Making the food baskets

Everyone had prepared several side dishes – including manuk (like a potato) top photo, pumpkin and banana dish (bottom right), and the goat (bottom left).

The banana leaves are brittle so we lightly brush them across the fire to make them soft.  They become moldable once they are soft and can be used like foil.  The spines are cut off the banana leaves, food is placed on top, and then they are gently folded.

Herve prepares the goat meet with fresh rosemary and tyme.

Herve prepping the feast

Herve prepping the feast

Back to the Polynesian Fire Pit

The men cut down a banana tree, then cut it into chunks and finally pulverize it.  Then we place the banana tree on top of the hot rocks. It will serve as racks for the food.  In addition, the moisture from the banana tree will create steam to help cook the food.

Next we cover the food with more banana leaves, then a tarp, then covered with dirt.  The food will cook in the Polynesian fire pit for 4 hours.

The Celebration

AT 1400, everyone is hungry and ready to eat.  We remove the sand, dirt, tarp, and banana leaves from the Polynesian pit.

The smell is intoxicating and only makes us hungrier.  

We had about 35-40 people celebrating with us – both cruisers and locals from Mangareva.  Everyone enjoyed a day full of amazingly tasty local food and games.

Some fun photos

Valerie and Herve’s Auntie showed up at 9:00am ready to celebrate the new year.

Valerie and Laura and I pose next to our Happy New Year = Bonne Année 2022

Although it is way past the first of the year, please know we are wishing you all a delightful 2022!  Thank you for reading our posts.

We spent Christmas in Taravai (see post), we truly enjoy our time in Gambier.   Events from this blog post occurred at the end of December 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

Herve, Valerie, Ariki, Alana

Taravai Christmas

We arrived Gambier on the 12th of December and took a few days to regroup while anchored in Rikitea (main town of Mangareva).  We arrived the day after the supply ship came so we were able to stock up on fresh fruits and veg, replenish staples, and catch up on sleep.  As excited as we were about the fresh goods and sleep, we really did have an awesome Christmas in Taravai.

The winds dropped and the water was glassy.  We had stunning sunsets and sunrises.

Then as usually the case, we high tailed it out of the main, crowded anchorage and headed toward Tauna.

Tauna

This is a small motu on the South East side of Gambier.  It is known for its shallow sandy shelf and great winds which makes it an ideal spot for kiteboarders.  I do love to watch the kiters but it takes away from the beauty of this little slice of paradise so we tend to not visit this motu when it is crowded.  We got lucky with a few days of very little wind which meant we had the anchorage to ourselves for 4 days!

We rested, explored the motu, swam, and enjoyed the peace and quiet.  After we were well rested and caught up on a few boat repairs, we made the move to Taravai. 

We had super light winds coming from behind us so we put up the parasail and enjoyed a leisurely 3-hour sail.  If you zoom in the photo you can see our instrument showing 3.0kts of wind and our boat speed is 3.2kts (we had a little help from the current).

Parasail downwind run

Parasail downwind run

Taravai

As you know, Valerie, Herve and their two sons (Alan and Ariki) live on Taravai.  They are 4 of the 12 people that inhabit this island. They’ve become good friends of ours and we wanted to celebrate Christmas with them.  We arrived at Taravai Christmas week.  Everyone greeted us with huge hugs and warm smiles.

I spent several days preparing and baking Christmas cookies.  I made well over 600 cookies including gingerbread, sugar, peppermint, white mice, and toffee.  It was a labor of love, but it was fun to pass out bags of sweet treats to our cruiser and local friends.

We enjoyed several happy hours onshore with our friends and spent Christmas morning celebrating the holiday over blueberry muffins.  They are such generous and loving people!

Herve, Valerie, Ariki, Alana

Herve, Valerie, Ariki, Alana

Our Cruising Christmas card

Coral Spawning

In mid-December the coral spawn emitting a gazillion eggs.  Huge patches float and gather all over causing a pretty bad smell and really gross mess.  The wind blew trillions (at least that is what it seemed like) of these eggs to the shores of Taravai.  They leave a trail on the waterline of the boat as well.  Hopefully, some of these eggs actually make it to coral.

Coral Spawning

Coral Spawning

For some reason, there are lots and lots of jelly fish.  These are the non-stinging kind, but it still gives me the willies!

We see man beautiful sunrises and sunsets.  Love the top left photo with the blue shooting out of the mountain in Mangareva.  The cat’s name is Shasha and she is 5yrs young.

After our eventful passage to Gambier (see passage post), we truly enjoy our time in Gambier.   Events from this blog post occurred just before Christmas 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

Passage: Amanu to Gambier

After waiting two weeks in Amanu, we finally get what we think is an “ok” weather window to head to Gambier.  I say “ok” window because they are not “ideal” conditions, but they are doable.  The 6-forecasts show NE winds with 1-2-meter seas, little rain and no storms.  Since we are heading SE these conditions will work.  This passage should take us 3-3.5 days based on our previous trips back and forth between these archipelagos.

What we learned during this passage was that the weather predictions were wrong 90% of the time.  It wasn’t until the last 12 hours that the weather predictions were actually accurate.  Little frustrating, yes!  We downloaded new forecasts 2 times per day from 6 sources and they were all wrong. Why is it that weather forecasters can be continuously incorrect and yet still keep their jobs :)?

We left our anchorage at 0600 and had a leisure sail to the pass.  Slack tide was estimated for 0700 so we did not want to arrive too early or too late.  We managed to arrive at 0705 which was perfect and had no issues exiting the pass.

We decided to go around the NW side of Amanu which is about 18-20nm longer and out of the way.  The reason we took this route was because it would give us a better angle for the trip (we make more easting).  As it turned out, we had to go 30nm out of the way in order to clear the Amanu SE corner.  But the good news was that it was a starboard tack (best tack for our boat) and beautiful sailing.

Then we began the pinching and bashing.  Pinching means that we are sailing as close to the wind as possible while still trying to keep the sails filled.  Sugar Shack can pinch to 38 degrees on a starboard tack and 45 degrees on port.  We would be on a port tack the entire way to Gambier.

Fishing for Birds

On day 1 we put out 2 of the 3 fishing lines.  We did not catch any fish, but we did catch a bird.  We had at least 25-30 birds circling and eyeballing our fishing lures.  It was pretty entertaining.  For the most part they would just stick their beak in the water to try to get the lure.  Missing most of the time and not able to pick it up once they got it.  

It wasn’t until they starting diving (their entire body) that we got worried.  We were pulling in one line when the other line went zing.  Crap.  We caught a bird.  The only thing we can do is bring it in and try to free the poor thing.  Within a few minutes it got free and sat on the water trying to regroup.  We certainly cleaned its clock.

Then we put the lures on the poles as we waited for them to go away.  And wouldn’t you know it, they found the lures on the poles and circled them while out of the water.  Silly birds!

End of first 24 hours we made 119nm toward our destination.

Day 2

Pretty uneventful passage day.  The boat is still pinching into the wind and bashing into the waves, but we are making progress and hanging in there.  It is slow going and we are slowly growing our cross track.  The cross track shows us how far off track we are.  We cannot head directly toward our destination because the wind is not cooperating.  But we are going in the “general direction.”

One fish got on the lure, made the fishing line go “zing” but it got off before we reeled her onto the boat.  Bummer.

End of 48 hours we made another 128nm toward our destination.

A beautiful sunset to end our day

Day 3

Wowza, totally crappy day on passage.  We had 3+ meters seas (that’s over 9’!) and lots of squalls.  We were constantly dodging the squalls and trying to make progress toward our destination. Not an easy feat.

Matt woke me up at 0500 to tell me we had two “fish on.”  Oh boy.  Lots to do.  Matt starts reeling in one fish while I make preparations.  Retrieve all required fishing gear (large container, bucket, cutting board, knives, gloves, pliers).  I could not reel in the 2nd line so we let it drag.  The pole was situated to the side of the boat behind the generator.  You had to lift the pole up and over the helm to reel it in and the fish was too strong for me.

Matt got the first line in and left it dragging behind the boat – tuna!  He got to the 2nd pole and barely got it over the helm.  Unfortunately, he did not have purchase to reel it in so we had to move it to a different fishing holder.  It had been at least 15 minutes, by the time we moved it again and he started reeling it in, we lost it.  But we still got a tuna.

The 2nd lure (on the pole that lost the fish), was destroyed.  Wonder what fish took ¼ of the fishing lure?

End of day 3 we made another 109nm toward our destination.

Day 4

We woke up to a much more pleasant day.  We were still pinching and had waves on the nose, but they were back down to 1.8-2 meters.  Much better, but still not ideal.  It wasn’t until sometime in the wee hours of the morning that the weather forecast finally came to fruition.  We got the NE winds that were promised and we were able to point directly to our destination.  Thus, saving us from having to motor the last 50+ miles.

Our cross track had made it all the way up to 38nm!  That means we were 38 miles off track.  Not too terribly bad considering we could not point directly here for the past 3 days. 

Land a Ho!

We spot Mt. Duff in the horizon and it is a sight to see!  We were so happy to see the beautiful mountain peak and be close to the end of this passage.

Passage Details:

  • Miles to Destination:  478
  • Total Miles Sailed:  537 (59 miles our of our way)
  • Total Moving Time: 98 hours 56 minutes (4 days 10 min)
  • Max Speed:  11.0 (during a squall)
  • Average Speed: 5.5kt

To give you some perspective:  a 46’ Amel (monohull) left Hao at the same time we did.  They had 60+ mile cross track and arrived 6 hours after we did.  So, we are feeling pretty good about ourselves.  As you know, any time two boats are headed in the same direction it is a race.

Passage Damage

Because the boat was bashing about from the waves, we had a wee bit of damage.  Any passage can be hard on the boat and this one was no exception.   The good news is that most of the damaged items are easily fixed – yeah!

  • Jib Tact Shackle broke. We had one 90-degree shackle attached to another shackle that held down the tact (bottom part of the sail) of the jib to the furler.  Kind of important as it keeps the sail attached to the boat enabling us to sail.  At dusk on day 3, I saw the tact flapping around, called Matt and we discovered the problem.  Matt was able to tie dynema (super strong line) to hold it down and we rolled the first portion of the jib to support it and prevent additional damage.  Since we only had 100nm to go we decided to wait to do further repairs (see note below on repair)
  • Starboard Alternator Belt Shredded: We have two alternators on each engine. The starboard large alternator has two belts and one became shredded and fell off.  Alternator still works, so we continued on.  Replaced it as soon as we got to anchorage
  • Ceiling Fan Broke: In the master cabin, we have two ceiling fans.  One fan was on during the super bad day and it bounced right off the ceiling and dangled from their wires.  We were able to reattach it to the ceiling but the wires need some love. Will fix at anchor
  • LED Ceiling Light: One of the starboard ceiling lights popped out of its hole during the bad day.  We taped it back to the ceiling until we get to anchor.
  • Two Fishing Lures: The fish were brutal to both lures taking at least 1/4 of each lure.

Repairing the Jib Tact Shackle

Once at anchor, and rested, we decided to fix the jib.  Matt had to unfurl the jib which meant we needed a super calm day.  Not wise to unfurl your sail while at anchor on a windy day.

The top 3 photos show the new shackle and dynema line that Matt added to hold the sail while we were at sea.  We could not connect the two shackles while the sail was under pressure and it was too windy to take it down while we were under way.

There was a small 1/4” tear of the bolt rope which threads up the forestay.  Negligible considering it could have been so much worse had we not caught it right away.  We added a new shackle and secured the sail (bottom image).

All in all it was not our best or favorite passage, but we made it safely.  Thank goodness.

Did you read about our adventures in Amanu in our last blog.   Events from this blog post occurred at the early December 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.