Prisitine Shores of Rabi Island

We enjoy several days at the pristine bay of Albert Cove on Rabi Island.  The beaches are gorgeous with over hanging palm trees.  The waters are turquoise and teaming with life and the Banaban community are friendly and welcoming.

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

Albert Cove, Rabi Isla

Matt and I with Sugar Shack on the background.

Albert Cove, Rabi

Albert Cove, Rabi

You can see why this place enchanted us….

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

The Locals

The locals are not Fijian, as we shared in our last post “Rabi Island: A Tortured Beginning to Thriving.” 

There is no village located on Albert Cove.  However, we met several locals that walk 2 hours from the main village in Elizabeth Cove.  They come here to harvest copra.

We continued on down the beach and met Thomas and Pauline. 

They moved here after they decided lead a more quiet and quality life on Albert Cove.  

Thomas and Pauline invited us to sit and enjoy the shade as they told us stories of their great grandparents migration from Banaba to Rabi Island.

They sent their cousin up a tree to retrieve coconuts.  He was so quick and nimble as he scurried up to the top of the tree (over 15 meters tall).

A Hike to Smiling Bay

Thomas told us that he could take us to Smiling Bay which is on the other side of the island.  

It was a 45 minute walk, about 1 mile each way, along a fairly easy trail. 

We met some more Banabans who were harvesting copra once we arrived.

Super beautiful bay and truly lovely people.  What a pleasure it was to visit here.

Find Rabi Island on No Foreign Land

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Rabi Island toward the end of June 2025.

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Rabi Island: A Tortured Beginning to Thriving

Tucked off the northeast coast of Vanua Levu lies Rabi Island (pronounced Rambi).  It is a lush, volcanic island often overlooked by cruisers and tourists and rarely mentioned in guidebooks.

But this remote place carries a story that spans oceans and generations. A story of displacement, resilience, and the quiet strength of a people determined to survive with dignity. 

The island’s residents are descendants from Banaba Island in Kiribati. 

The Banabans story is rooted in colonial exploitation, world wars, and one of the Pacific’s lesser-known forced migrations.

Let me back up to the beginning…

Banaba (Kiribati)

Banaba Island, formerly known as Ocean Island lies on the westernmost point of Kiribati.   This small island was a phosphate rich island.  The British stripped the land to enrich faraway farms.  The environmental degradation was devasting.  Then came WWII which brought the Japanese soldiers who forcibly removed or killed the locals.  The landscape was hollowed out.

The British decided to relocate the Banabans. 

  • In 1941, the British purchased Rabi Island for ~£25,000.
  • In 1945, they relocated 703 Banabans, including children.  The people expected developed housing – but instead found tents amidst the cyclone season.  Tragically, around 40 elders died in the first few weeks. What was meant to be a new beginning started with deep sorrow.
  • A second migration wav came in the 1970’s, a final one followed in the early 1980’s, after the phosphate mining on Banaba ceased.

Still, the Banabans stayed and persevered. 

These Banaban girls were part of the first Banaban settlers to arrive on Rabi, Fiji 1945

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

First Banaban generation born on Banaba (Ocean Island) but raised on Rabi, Fiji 1950s

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

First Banaban arrivals on Rabi lived in Army tents with one month of food rations.

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi

Rabi Today

The Banabans built new lives, carving out four villages mirroring the ones they had lost. 

They kept their language (Gilbertese), their customs, and their stories alive, even as their children were born in Fiji.

The Fijian Government finally granted the Banabans Fijian Citizenship in 2005.

Today, Rabi Island is a place of quiet determination. 

Fishing and farming sustain the families. 

Young people speak both Gilbertese and Fijian and learn the local customs from the elders.

It is a complicated existence, straddling two homelands: one lost, one adopted.  But the Banabans of Rabi continue to live with intention.  Their story of survival is an inspiration to many.  Their restoration of voice, of culture, and of place.

Banabans Enjoying the Water

Banabans Enjoying the Water

Banaba History Links:

  • https://www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation 
  • https://www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi 
  • https://www.banaban.com/post/come-meet-the-banabans

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Rabi Island toward the end of June 2025.

Be sure to read about the many surprises we encountered in remote areas.

Surprises in Remote Areas

We left the beautiful Bay of Islands after a two-week stay.  We decided to do some day sailing with a few stops rather than one long over night passage.  Our first stop was Matei Bay (or sometimes called the Airport Anchorage at Taveuni).  It is very close to Naselesele Point.  This is where we found our first surprise!

Matei Bay / Airport Anchorage, Taveuni

The reason we picked this bay was because there is a restaurant here.  We were ready for a night out.  

Super pretty bay that is very wide and easily accessed. However, not protected in adverse weather.

From the Bay’s anchorage you can see the Taveuni Island Resort nestled in the tree tops and two beautiful beaches.

We arrived late in the afternoon and decided to head straight for the restaurant.  There are two places to eat onshore.  One is called the Dive Cafe (pictured below) and the other is Tramonto Restaurant.   

They both offer stunning views of the bay and delicious food.  We opted to eat at Tramonto. We found out that they use organic ingredients from their family’s organic farm called Vacala Organic Farm.  And to our surprise, they sell produce to the public!

Early the next morning we contacted one of the owners of the Vacala Organic Farm.  Matt, the owner, picked us up and took us up to a section of his 85 acre organic farm!

It had been 6 weeks since we had fresh produce so we were eager to collect as much as we could.

As you can see, we left with a huge haul of fresh produce and vegetables.  Score for Sugar Shack!

Naqujqai Bay

The forecast predicted a rather large storm to bring heavy rains and 40+kts of wind.  This storm forced us to leave Matei Bay and head toward Naqujqai Bay (a more protected bay). 

Naqujqai bay is long and skinny and is surrounded by hills on 3 sides.  Very protected. We are the sailboat with the blue arrow pointing at us.

Before the storm arrived, we enjoyed a lovely walk to a lookout. 

The Remote Resort owns this property and has strategically placed lounge chairs to watch the sunset.

The Remote Resort is a lovely little hideaway protected from most wind directions. 

The staff at the Remote Resort are remarkably friendly.  And again, to our surprise, they allow yachties to dine with them.

Our friends on Amok, Lexi and Dan joined us for a delightful lunch. 

Another surprise. 

We go to shore to do sevusevu with the chief. 

As we were talking with him we discovered his wife is part of the Mitchell family.  Of course, we joked about being cousins.

They had a photo of their property when it was a thriving coconut plantation.

From One Bay to Another

We decided we wanted to stretch our legs with a hike from Naqujqai Bay over the hill to Viani Bay.  The locals told us it was about an hour hike.  Well, there were lots of twists and turns, no signs, and barely a trail.

We went through a lot of muddy areas, rivers, bushy areas, tall grass, hillsides and more.

A little over 2 hours later we arrived at the lookout.  You can see Viani Bay from the lookout.

Our track is the blue and yellow one below.  6.7 miles!!

We crossed the river several times, not sure if it was the same one or not. 

The vegetation was beautiful and so very green.

We passed by a copra drying area and found the landing area from the river.  The landing area had a kayak and a self made catamaran.

In the middle of the jungle was a small village consisting of 3 houses.  It was a long walk to anywhere.

We finally made it to Viani Bay where we enjoyed a lovely cold drink and rested for a spell.

Exhausting walk because of the mud and hills, but we got it done!

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events  This blog post occurred toward the end of June 2025.

Did you miss our adventures to the Bay of Islands Lookout?