The Beauty of Viani Bay

Viani Bay is a large bay located close to Fiji’s renowned Rainbow Reef.  There are two dive resorts here: Viani Bay Resort and Dive Academy and Dolphin Bay Retreat

Several other dive resorts take tourists to Rainbow Reef including Paradise Dive Resort, Taveuni Dive Resort, and Rainbow Reef Diving.

We met Marina and Jone a few years ago.  They own and operate Viani Bay Resort and Dive Academy.  They are super cruiser friendly, offer delicious meals, have lovely grounds, and wonderful dive tours.

Hikes and Walks in Viani Bay

We decided to walk from Viani Bay, over the hill, and through the mangroves to The Remote Resort.  We did this walk coming the other way so we had somewhat of a track.

It is 2hours and 3.7 miles there, including a few wrong turns.  But we all made it!

We enjoyed a delicious lunch and headed back.  Long day, but totally worth the effort!

It started out just being Chris, Sarah (SeaGlub) and Sugar Shack.  But then others heard about our lofty goals and wanted to join the adventure.  We ended up with Kevin and Stacy (Free Spirit), Pierre and Marie (Viva), and Craig and Ray (Russala).

We came across a property called Na Vale Walu on a different walk  This unique home sits on 36 acres of free hold land.  There is main house and guest house and both come fully furnished.  Could be yours for $600,000 USD.

Matt attempted to climb a palm tree but only made it half way up (or is it across).

There is lots of exploring to do around this pretty bay.  We walk along the water’s edge and see a variety of Fijian houses.  Some are nicer than others, but they all have the same gorgeous view.

There is a small church and a primary school.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events. 

We were here during the first part of July 2025.

We learn all about Fiji Salt which was created by Jwww.noforeignland.com/place/5250864870588416ohne at Viani Bay Resort.  Don’t miss this next blog post.

In our last blog post we share the pristine shores of Rabi Island.

Find Viani Bay on No Foreign Land

Prisitine Shores of Rabi Island

We enjoy several days at the pristine bay of Albert Cove on Rabi Island.  The beaches are gorgeous with over hanging palm trees.  The waters are turquoise and teaming with life and the Banaban community are friendly and welcoming.

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

Albert Cove, Rabi Isla

Matt and I with Sugar Shack on the background.

Albert Cove, Rabi

Albert Cove, Rabi

You can see why this place enchanted us….

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

Albert Cove, Rabi Island

The Locals

The locals are not Fijian, as we shared in our last post “Rabi Island: A Tortured Beginning to Thriving.” 

There is no village located on Albert Cove.  However, we met several locals that walk 2 hours from the main village in Elizabeth Cove.  They come here to harvest copra.

We continued on down the beach and met Thomas and Pauline. 

They moved here after they decided lead a more quiet and quality life on Albert Cove.  

Thomas and Pauline invited us to sit and enjoy the shade as they told us stories of their great grandparents migration from Banaba to Rabi Island.

They sent their cousin up a tree to retrieve coconuts.  He was so quick and nimble as he scurried up to the top of the tree (over 15 meters tall).

A Hike to Smiling Bay

Thomas told us that he could take us to Smiling Bay which is on the other side of the island.  

It was a 45 minute walk, about 1 mile each way, along a fairly easy trail. 

We met some more Banabans who were harvesting copra once we arrived.

Super beautiful bay and truly lovely people.  What a pleasure it was to visit here.

Find Rabi Island on No Foreign Land

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Rabi Island toward the end of June 2025.

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Rabi Island: A Tortured Beginning to Thriving

Tucked off the northeast coast of Vanua Levu lies Rabi Island (pronounced Rambi).  It is a lush, volcanic island often overlooked by cruisers and tourists and rarely mentioned in guidebooks.

But this remote place carries a story that spans oceans and generations. A story of displacement, resilience, and the quiet strength of a people determined to survive with dignity. 

The island’s residents are descendants from Banaba Island in Kiribati. 

The Banabans story is rooted in colonial exploitation, world wars, and one of the Pacific’s lesser-known forced migrations.

Let me back up to the beginning…

Banaba (Kiribati)

Banaba Island, formerly known as Ocean Island lies on the westernmost point of Kiribati.   This small island was a phosphate rich island.  The British stripped the land to enrich faraway farms.  The environmental degradation was devasting.  Then came WWII which brought the Japanese soldiers who forcibly removed or killed the locals.  The landscape was hollowed out.

The British decided to relocate the Banabans. 

  • In 1941, the British purchased Rabi Island for ~£25,000.
  • In 1945, they relocated 703 Banabans, including children.  The people expected developed housing – but instead found tents amidst the cyclone season.  Tragically, around 40 elders died in the first few weeks. What was meant to be a new beginning started with deep sorrow.
  • A second migration wav came in the 1970’s, a final one followed in the early 1980’s, after the phosphate mining on Banaba ceased.

Still, the Banabans stayed and persevered. 

These Banaban girls were part of the first Banaban settlers to arrive on Rabi, Fiji 1945

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

First Banaban generation born on Banaba (Ocean Island) but raised on Rabi, Fiji 1950s

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

First Banaban arrivals on Rabi lived in Army tents with one month of food rations.

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi

Rabi Today

The Banabans built new lives, carving out four villages mirroring the ones they had lost. 

They kept their language (Gilbertese), their customs, and their stories alive, even as their children were born in Fiji.

The Fijian Government finally granted the Banabans Fijian Citizenship in 2005.

Today, Rabi Island is a place of quiet determination. 

Fishing and farming sustain the families. 

Young people speak both Gilbertese and Fijian and learn the local customs from the elders.

It is a complicated existence, straddling two homelands: one lost, one adopted.  But the Banabans of Rabi continue to live with intention.  Their story of survival is an inspiration to many.  Their restoration of voice, of culture, and of place.

Banabans Enjoying the Water

Banabans Enjoying the Water

Banaba History Links:

  • https://www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation 
  • https://www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi 
  • https://www.banaban.com/post/come-meet-the-banabans

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Rabi Island toward the end of June 2025.

Be sure to read about the many surprises we encountered in remote areas.