Fiji to New Zealand Day1 – Dusted

Well we made it through day number one!

Long line at Customs and Immigration with all the boats wanting to leave on this “weather window”. Everyone talking in line about strategies and why this is a good time to leave. I’m not convinced lots of non favorable conditions and a dead line at the end made for some tough decisions but decided to go with the heard. Leaving Fiji in a conga line or the autobahn was pretty crazy we counted 20+ boats in a line all motoring out of the wind shadow looking to start sailing.

Normally I like to start these longer passages early in the day, to have a full day of nice sunlight and getting “sea legs” or used to the motion of the boat in the day light before darkness settles in. There are no street lights to guide your way at night, and we are in a “new moon” phase so the moon doesn’t eve show up to help light the way. It’s also overcast and grey so no stars – not really a champagne sailing kinda day but off we go.

We get out the pass around 2pm and barely before dark have the full force of the wind that was lurking behind the shadow of the big FIji island. Then the seas that go with 20knots of wind also showed up. Bouncy but fast night. Not that comfortable. Even started with only half of the sail, 2 reefs. Eventually raised some more, but the a bit later dropped it back down.

At the start there were lots of boats around, but as the night grew on everyone was taking their own path and speed, and then there were no boat lights on the horizon before day break. Some were still on AIS, radio tracking. With all the bouncing around our AIS antenna had enough of trying to hold on any longer and jumped ship. We saw him hanging from a wire contemplating his fate, but there was nothing we could do to change his mind. Eventually he let go of the coax and bailed on us. He held in there for 26000 miles at the top of the mast since Costa Rica, I can only imagine he was getting a little tired of all those waves we have bounce through. So no we are not seeing the boat even electronically or worse yet, not broadcasting our position to nearby boats so they can see us. Something to address at the first camp site along the way, meaning New Zealand.

All well onboard. Christine is well medicated and not showing signs of being green or wanting to talk to the fish. She even got her some pulled pork tacos to start the journey off right. 1100 miles as the crow flies on this journey down south into much colder weather.

I was asked if I was gong to wear socks.. “Socks??” I asked, and he replied “it’s like mittens but for your toes”. Wonder if they work with Flip-Flops?

Namara island

Astrolabe Reef & Gnarly Gnuggets

The Astrolabe Reef runs along Kadavu’s southern shore then arcs north-east past Ono and Buliya Islands.  There are about a dozen islands inside the Kadavu lagoon including Kadavu, Dravuni, Yanuyanu, Namara, Qasibale, Yauku Levu, Buliya, Yabu, Vurolevu, Galoa, and Ono.

The top little island is Dravenui, the 3rd island is where we found the manta rays (see our next blog), and the arrow is where we anchored at Ono.

After our 40nm motor-sail from Mbengga, we arrive at the northern Herald Pass.  We thought we might stop at Dravuni Island where there is a large village that receives small cruise ships once a month. But the weather and waves would have made this an uncomfortable anchorage so we just did a “drive-by.”

Namara Island

The neighboring island of Namara was our next stop. There is a reef that surrounds this island teaming with sea life. Sugar Shack found a nice sandy spot to drop the hook and enjoyed the island to herself.

Namara island

Namara island

It is a small and with very limited human touches.  On the south side where we anchored, the only proof of humanity is a small bamboo bar and fence. We went on a short walk across the island to the other side and up and over the ridge.

I love the contrasting colors of the water. Turquoise near the reef and royal blue inside the lagoon.

Namara Island

Namara Island

 

Yabu Island

On the way from Namara island to Yabu island we came across a group of birds enjoying a nice swim.  Usually they fly away as we approach, but this group of birds were fearless.

Yabu Island is uninhabited and is a wildlife sanctuary and has tons and tons of boobies and other species.  Technically, we cannot go ashore until we do sevusevu on the island that claims ownership over Yabu.  So, we head to Buliya where the chief lives in the main village. 

Buliya is a 2nm dinghy ride from Yabu.  Technically, we could have easily brought the big boat over there, but since we were already anchored in a lovely spot, we decided to take the water car.

Buliya

We arrive late in the morning and are greeted by none other than the chief of the village.  This is totally unheard of.  Normally, you are greeted by the Torangi-ni-koro (the headman) who brings you to the chief.   Thank goodness I was in my sulu!

He walks us over to a shady spot just off the beach that has two long boats (pangas) turned upside down.  Several men are sitting or laying down on top of them enjoying the cool breeze on this hot day.

We do a quick sevusevu and enjoy a few minutes of chat with the locals.  They gift us with loads of papayas and we enjoy a long walk on a beautiful sandy beach before heading back to Yadu.

Buliya Island

Buliya Island

Now that we are “officially” welcomed into the village, we go ashore to Yadu which googlemaps has down as “gnarly gnuggets” a religious destination.  

Super pretty spit of sand peppered with purple rocks!

They surely have this wrong as this island belongs to the bazillion birds that live here!

Vurolevu Island

The main reason we came to Yabu is to be close to the area where the mantas are.  They swim off the northern tip of a small island called Vurolevu in the mornings.  Stay tuned for our next blog for my updates on the mantas.

The events from this blog occurred in early September 2022.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  In our last blog we visit one of the most beautiful bays in Fiji, Mbengga, did you miss it?

Foil Boarding: Teaching an Old Dog New Tricks

Matt has been “eye-balling” kite and foil board gear for years and years.  In fact, when we lived in Austin, Matt bought a training kite to learn to kite in 2014.  As you might recall, Matt has been a water bunny for decades.  He was a water-skier, knee boarder, in high school, then jumped to wakeboarding, bought a ski boat in 1993 and continued doing all sorts of crazy tricks and stunts on the wake board. He moved on to surfing behind the ski boat in around 2004/5 when it became evident that the falls were taking longer to recover from.

Fast forward to today.  Matt tried foiling last year but did not have much success.  The board and foil were set up for experts and he was just beginning.  But he had fun trying and was not dissuaded!

Foiling

Foiling is a challenging and dangerous sport.  You have to be able to surf, then foil, then fly using the wing. There is the board, usually between 4’.5”-5’.5’, the mast that connects the foil to the board, the back wing which is called the stabilizer and the front wing which is called the foil”.  The piece between the foil and stabilizer is called a fuselage.  And of course, you have the actual “wing” that helps you fly.  This is just for show, I pulled it off the internet 🙂

Step 1: Getting up and Staying Up

We hook up with our friend Chris on Sea Glub who has a foil board. Matt and Chris talk about getting up, going slow, learning the motion of the board and just moving forward (all before foiling).  We use “Sweetie” to pull Matt.  Getting up is easy for Matt as it is similar to surfing behind a boat.  First, he is on his knees, then is slowly stands, and then he is off – surfing on a small board with the foil underwater.

After a few rises, we switch to let Chris have a go at it and then Matt is back in the water.  This time he is confronted with a few waves from passing boats.

Step 2: Tapping

Matt starts to play with the foil by tapping the water.  He goes up a wee bit, then down, up, then down, rinse and repeat.  He is testing the foil, finding the sweet spot and trying to get a feel for the center of balance when the board is up on the foil.  You can see in the below photos that the board is starting to come off the water exposing the mast of the foil.

Step 3: Foiling

Just as the sun starts to set, we get some good photos of Matt foiling.  It was long and it wasn’t always pretty (bad form), but he was up and foiling on day 1!

All in all, it was an outstanding first go!  Matt is hooked and eager to try again soon. 

With all that said, don’t get me wrong, this was difficult even for Matt.  He had some epic falls that qualified for the adjective “Christine’d it!”  You have to be very careful when you fall as the wings on the foil are ridiculously sharp and can do some major damage.  They are so sharp that kiters call them underwater knives!

Adding the Wing

The next step, which was very premature, but worth a try, is to add the wing kite.  Our friend Chris brought it out to the beach to give it a try.  We did not add it to the foiling as it was much too windy day for the combination.  You can see how strong it is as it lifts Matt off the ground with ease.

Practice with the Kite (wing)

The wing is unpacked and ready to play! Matt blows up his new kite and places with it on the bow to get a feel for how he needs to use the wing to propel himself while on the water.

After Matt practiced using our friend Chris’s wing on the beach, he decided to take his new wing out for a spin using his SUP.  Why do you ask did he try the SUP over the new foil board?  Stability.  The SUP is much bigger, wider, and far more stable than the foil board.

It was a light wind day which gave Matt an opportunity to try to propel himself side to the wind.  (The first try he went dead down which is the easiest, but he is learning).  I think part of the difficulty was that he was on his knees and he could not properly turn the kite without getting it in the water…but what do I know?

A week or two later Matt got the foil board out.  He wanted to try to stand on it using a SUP paddle. But it was just too unstable.  He went upwind to get some space from the boat and tried to balancing on his knees first.  

That is when another foiler came by showing off….

Big Purchase From the States

Matt decided to pull the trigger and purchase a foil kite package from Kiteboarding.com.  After much discussion with many other kiters he decided to purchase the following:

  • A demo North 2022 Seek Foil board
  • North 2022 Nova-Wing Size 5 kite
  • North 2022 sonar carbo Eidition (CF85)
  • Sonar Reflect Front Wing 1850R
  • Sonar Medium Aspect Front Wing (MA1200)
  • Mystic 2022 Start wing foil board bag
  • Helmet
  • Life vest
  • Tow rope (to practice towing behind the dinghy)

We had it all shipped to Fiji Freight along with some other items that we thought we “needed to have.”  Wow, Fiji Freight provides excellent customer service! They are super knowledgeable and very reasonably priced.  We had 5 packages sent and the arrived, cleared customs and were delivered to us in Port Denarau within 5 days!

Matt could not wait to assemble the board!  We got back to the boat and he started right away.

Stay tuned for more training adventures as Matt learns how to master this new sport!

The events from this blog occurred in mid-August 2022.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  Did you catch our last blot post where we 2 out of 3 races in the Musket Cove Regatta 2022?