Tag Archives: Amok

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Rabi Island: A Tortured Beginning to Thriving

Tucked off the northeast coast of Vanua Levu lies Rabi Island (pronounced Rambi).  It is a lush, volcanic island often overlooked by cruisers and tourists and rarely mentioned in guidebooks.

But this remote place carries a story that spans oceans and generations. A story of displacement, resilience, and the quiet strength of a people determined to survive with dignity. 

The island’s residents are descendants from Banaba Island in Kiribati. 

The Banabans story is rooted in colonial exploitation, world wars, and one of the Pacific’s lesser-known forced migrations.

Let me back up to the beginning…

Banaba (Kiribati)

Banaba Island, formerly known as Ocean Island lies on the westernmost point of Kiribati.   This small island was a phosphate rich island.  The British stripped the land to enrich faraway farms.  The environmental degradation was devasting.  Then came WWII which brought the Japanese soldiers who forcibly removed or killed the locals.  The landscape was hollowed out.

The British decided to relocate the Banabans. 

  • In 1941, the British purchased Rabi Island for ~£25,000.
  • In 1945, they relocated 703 Banabans, including children.  The people expected developed housing – but instead found tents amidst the cyclone season.  Tragically, around 40 elders died in the first few weeks. What was meant to be a new beginning started with deep sorrow.
  • A second migration wav came in the 1970’s, a final one followed in the early 1980’s, after the phosphate mining on Banaba ceased.

Still, the Banabans stayed and persevered. 

These Banaban girls were part of the first Banaban settlers to arrive on Rabi, Fiji 1945

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

First Banaban generation born on Banaba (Ocean Island) but raised on Rabi, Fiji 1950s

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation

First Banaban arrivals on Rabi lived in Army tents with one month of food rations.

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi

Photo courtesy of www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi

Rabi Today

The Banabans built new lives, carving out four villages mirroring the ones they had lost. 

They kept their language (Gilbertese), their customs, and their stories alive, even as their children were born in Fiji.

The Fijian Government finally granted the Banabans Fijian Citizenship in 2005.

Today, Rabi Island is a place of quiet determination. 

Fishing and farming sustain the families. 

Young people speak both Gilbertese and Fijian and learn the local customs from the elders.

It is a complicated existence, straddling two homelands: one lost, one adopted.  But the Banabans of Rabi continue to live with intention.  Their story of survival is an inspiration to many.  Their restoration of voice, of culture, and of place.

Banabans Enjoying the Water

Banabans Enjoying the Water

Banaba History Links:

  • https://www.banaban.com/post/banabans-face-assimilation 
  • https://www.banaban.com/banabans-first-arrival-rabi 
  • https://www.banaban.com/post/come-meet-the-banabans

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Rabi Island toward the end of June 2025.

Be sure to read about the many surprises we encountered in remote areas.

Bay of Islands Lookout

We went on a hike with our friends Dan and Lexi from sv Amok.  This was our last day before we left the beautiful Bay of Islands at Vanua Balavu, Northern Lau.

We load up into the dinghy and drive around to a small, secluded beach.  This is where the trail starts.  

The trail incline starts off muddy and dirty.  But it is a clear path that can easily be navigated.  We come to the first of many gates and let ourselves in to the beautiful plantation on top of the island.

We see lots of animals including cows, horses, goats, sheep, and pigs. 

This little lamb thought we were part of her herd.

We make it to the top of the island which is where the two plantation owners have their homes. 

The house below belongs to Tony.  He lives just up the hill from the village where the workers live.

You can access the top of the island several different ways.  We came up the side of the mountain. 

But you can also climb up 271 stairs from Batavu Harbor. 

A local climbed all 271 stairs in 56 seconds.  It took us a lot longer than that!

The Bay of Islands Lookout

We finally make it up to the Bay of Islands Lookout. 

It is so stunning to see the variety of blues and greens in the water. 

A breath taking location!

This place has no railings and no protection from the sharp and jagged cliff that lies below.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events. 

We hiked to the Bay of Islands Lookout on 21 June 2025 with our friends Dan and Lexi from sv Amok.

Be sure to read about our other fun adventures around the Bay of Islands.