Tag Archives: captain cook

Isle de Pines

Ile des Pins: Captain Cook Stopped and Stared

If someone handed you a paintbrush and asked you to create the perfect tropical island, you’d probably end up with something very close to the Isle des Pins aka Ile de Pins.

Located about 60 kilometers south of Nouméa, the Ile des Pins earned its name in 1774 when Captain James Cook spotted the island’s towering columnar pine trees rising dramatically above the horizon.

He was shocked at the scene before him and aptly named them Ile des Pins.

To sailors approaching from sea, those distinctive pines must have looked like nature’s version of a welcome sign.

After dropping the hook and sitting on a mooring, we were in awe of the beautiful pines.

These tall narrow pines, scientific name “Araucaria columnaris” stand 10-20 meters (32 – 65 feet) above the canopy of any neighboring trees and can reach heights up to 60 meters (196 feet).  It is quite an arresting scene.

Today, the island is not only famous for its pines but also for its crystal-clear waters, white-sand beaches, and the stunning natural swimming pool of Oro Bay. The water is so clear that fish seem to float in mid-air, leaving visitors wondering if they’ve accidentally wandered into a screensaver.

But beneath all that beauty lies an interesting history. The island is home to the Kanak people, who have lived here for centuries.

An Island Prison

During the late 1800s, the French used the island as a penal colony, sending political prisoners here after the Paris Commune. Not exactly the tropical vacation package advertised today.

Villages were set up for prisoners, refugees, and workers.

You can visit remnants of old buildings still standing from the 1800’s.

We found a church, the prison wall, a bunker, and an ammunition storage.

Wes tumbled across the old jail compound which is very eerie.

Old Jail

Old Jail

Remains of a Penal Colony – an old water tank. from 1874

The Vagina and Penis Peninsula 

In the neighboring bay of Kanumera you will find the penis peninsula and the Vagina Rock.  Both interesting names.  

The Vagina Rock is a sacred rock where the locals believe that couples can spend the night here with the hope of conceiving children.

It is a stunning rock that has a beautiful, white sandy path leading from shore during low tide.

Once we crossed over the path we saw up in the bushes the “boom boom room” where we assume the locals go to try to get pregnant.

A Tradition of Carving

As soon as we stepped foot onto the island we were greeted with towering, hand-carved tikis.  

We were lucky enough to catch one of the carvers hard at work.

Locals place these carvings all around the island, near the docks, near important sites, buildings, and homes.

Now, tourism and traditional Kanak culture peacefully share the island. Visitors come for the snorkeling, diving, and scenery, but often leave with an appreciation for the island’s rich heritage and unique way of life.

The Ile des Pins may look like paradise—and it certainly is—but it’s also a reminder that every beautiful place has a story beneath the surface.

One clever local turned plastic bottles into jelly fish art.

Find Ile des Pins on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We visited Ile des Pins toward the end of June 2026.

Did Matt name an island after himself?  Be sure to read about it.

The Authentic Kastom Village of Fanla

We came to Ambrym to see the legendary Fanla Rom Dance Festival.  This festival is held in the small, remote village of Fanla located up in the mountains.  Fanla is a true kastom village which is dedicated to preserving the Vanuatu traditional ways in culture, religion, economics, art, and magic.

We anchor at Ranon Bay which is the closest anchorage to Fanla.  This is a beautiful, large bay with a lovely village near the shore (see our blog post on Ranon).  

The Fanla Festival Program

This is a two day festival featuring ROM dances, black magic, sand drawing, and the rarely seen grade taking ritual.  Grade taking is specific to Ambrym and is where the men perform certain activities and pay significant amounts of money and pig tusks to increase their rank in the village.

There is so much to share about each event within the festival that I have broken them out into separate blog posts.  However, here are the highlights of what is to come:

Fanla Festival: ROM, a Mystical Cultural Event

The ROM dance is a sacred, magical event.  A few men are selected to perform the ROM dance as part of their grade taking ceremony.  The ROM dance includes very elaborate costumes and a hand made tribal mask.

This will be two parts:  One on the actual ROM dance and one on the beautiful, magical ROM masks and costumes.

Fanla Festival: Black Magic and Sand Drawing

An sorcerer performs several variations of sand drawing. Sand drawing is drawn from memory without lifting the finger and is a complete, complex pattern.

Drum and flute demonstrations will be played, several variations of dances will be performed and we will witness a small display of mysterious black magic performed by a special sorcerer, ‘the man blong blak majik’.

Fanla Festival: Grade Taking Ceremony

We witness two chiefs elevate from a level 11 grade to a level 12 grade which makes them the highest ranking men in all of Vanuatu.  The ceremony, steeped in tradition, includes several dances, songs, chants, and pig killing.  

But before we get to the festival, let’s talk about the very unique kastom village of Fanla.

The Kastom Village of Fanla

Fanla is located through the forest and up in the mountain. We hired a guide to show us the way to Fanla, since we were not 100% certain of its location. Freddy Roromal came down from Fanla to show us the “shortcut which would cut 20 minutes off our hike.  The route along the road takes 60-75 minutes and our short cut route took 45 minutes.

It is a relatively easy “walk” albeit mostly up hill.  When it rains it becomes very muddy but it is not a difficult climb. 

Fanla is one of the oldest villages in Ambrym and they have the two highest grade chiefs in all of Vanuatu.  This kastom village itself has a mix of concrete houses and traditional huts.  It appears many of the young people went to larger villages and returned with money to build strong, more secure homes for their families.

Fanla boasts of one of the most unique banyan trees in the country.  It is a female banyan tree that has a naturally grown “cave” on the back side of the tree.  The elders of the village used to hide skulls in the cave to prevent their enemies from stealing them.

From the front, the tree looks like a typical banyan tree.  But as you round the backside you see the very large opening.  They have strategically placed two stone carved tikis to protect the tree.  Once you walk in you turn to the left and there is a further path into the center of the tree.

Tour of Fanla

We continue our tour of the Fanla Village and come to the grave site of the eldest chief of the village.  This is chief who met Captain Cook when he arrived to Ambrym.  The chief gave Captain Cook a yam.  When the chief offered the yam to him he said “yam rim” which means my yam for you.  Captain Cook thought that he said the name of the island is  “yam rim.” This is how Ambrym got its name.

In exchange for the yam, Captain Cook presented the chief with a piece of metal. The chief created a special carving tool using the metal piece. This special tool is used in the highest levels of the grade taking ceremony carvings.  The chief showed us the 250 year old tool and allowed us to hold it.  It is amazing to me to be able to hold such an authentic piece of history in my hands!

The top photo is the burial site.  The villagers lay out the moss covered stones in the shape of pig tusks (which is the highest honor).  The chief earns hundreds of tusks over his lifetime and they are all buried with him.  This site is considered “tabu.” You can only visit with express permission from the current chief and with a guide.

The top right photo is the “secret” place of the high chief. The chief chooses to live alone and prepare his own meals.  He does not accept visitors (not even his wife). More on this in the grade-taking ceremony blog.

Me, the Leader?

As many of you know, I am extremely active in the cruising community.  I have produced 8 compendiums for various countries which are complete sailing guides (200+ pages each).  I am an administrator on several cruising forums, social media groups, and WhatsApp groups. Many cruisers turn to Sugar Shack for guidance and assistance and I consider it a huge honor.

I was able to gather 18 cruisers for the Fanla festival.  This is the largest group they’ve had attend and the villagers considered me the “leader.”  

I am so excited to share the many cultural events and stories we’ve learned about here in Fanla.  Follow along with us for the next couple of weeks to read all about it!

A new tribe of girls…they just to play with my hair.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Falna around Mid-July 2024.  Did you read about the beautiful bays of Ambrym in our last blog post?

Royalty Found on Tongatopu

We arrived in the southern island of Tongatopu as our point of entry into the Kingdom.  After our formalities were handled, we began our exploration.  The city center is a short walk from the docks.  Along the way there were a dozen street vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables including melons, bell peppers, cabbage, carrots, bananas, and more.  We decided to wait to make our purchases until after we visited the main produce open air market.

The Royal Palace

The wooden Palace, which was built in 1867, is the official residence of the King of Tonga. The palace is not open to the public so all we could get were photos from the fence. No guards were present and frankly it looked like a large, well-maintained hotel.

The Royal Tombs

Only Kings and Queens of Tonga can buried in the Royal Tombs which are also closed to the public.  But they are located in the heart of the capital city.

Royalty at its Best

The King’s birthday was early July so many places of business had “happy birthday your majesty” signs up.  There were also lots and lots of purple banners, fabric, ribbons, and bows draped over the front lawns of homes and businesses.  This was beacuse the King’s cousin passed away.

Across the streets are many large signs showing their love of the king.

The photos used as the cover photo is a picture of the Royal Palace in the “country”  The princess was rumored to be staying there a few days after we visited.

Tonga Time

Next to the Internarional Dateline Hotel is the famous Tonga Clock where time means nothing.  Because in Tonga, time can be anything you want it to be.

Churches

There are so many churches in the city center.  It seems like every block had a church but I am sure that is not the case.  I was drawn to the very large gothic looking churches. The stone church below was destroyed a few years ago by a massive storm.  Now it sits slowly deteriorating and it is so very sad.

Ha’amonga Trilithon – Stonehenge of the South Pacific

The Ha’amonga Trilithon is a mysterious 11th-century stone arch that is made up of three large slabs that are about 5m tall and 6m long.  TEach coral limestone slab weighs approximately 30 to 40 tons. Because of its clear resemblance, it has been nicknamed the “Stonehenge of the Pacific.”

The name means “Maui’s Burden” in the local language, and as the stones are too heavy for humans to handle, it is believed that the god Maui himself brought them from ‘Uvea (Wallis Island) and constructed the monument. They now reside in a small roadside nature reserve. 

Archaeologists, on the other hand, generally seem to believe that the Ha‘amonga was built by an early 13th-century king as the gateway to his royal palace, Heketā. Otherwise, it has been suggested, it might have been used for astrological purposes. These theories are unconfirmed, however, and the origin of the huge trilithon remains a mystery. 

Our guide tells us that this was a gateway to a very ruthless king’s home.  Once you cross through the gateway you see three paths.  When the sun rises on the far right path it is going to be a very long day.  If the sun shines on the middle path it will be a normal day and the far left path will be a very short day.

The large boulder on the upper right corner was the resting place for the king.  He sat at near the bottom and it is rumored his head touched the indent toward the top (making him close to 4 meters tall).  The middle image is the old burial site that was never used for this king.

A few local artists were selling their crafts at the stonehenge.  Too bad we coud not buy anything.

Captain Cook’s Landing Place in Alaki

The last place we visited was the landing place for Captain Cook.  It sure is a prety bay.  You can see why Captain Cook returned here several times.

We had a great time exploring Tongatopu with our driver Olini who also helped us get gasoline. It was a short 3-hour tour, but we sure did pack a lot of stops and sites into that time.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occured toward the end of July 2023. Check out our last blog where I highlight the Kingdom of Tonga.