Tag Archives: customs

Celebrating in a new country, Costa Rica,

Welcome to Costa Rica, Golfito and Panama Posse

Our first port in Costa Rica was Golfo Dulce which is an enormous bay with several small bays inside it.  Once you enter Golfo Dulce you can go to Bahia Puerto Jimenez, Bahia Rincon, Punta Gallardo, Punta Voladera, Punta El Cabro, or Golfito Bay.  We were headed toward Golfito Bay which is surrounded by lush, green mountains.  Being that Golfito is a bay within a bay, it is very calm and tranquil with a nice, breeze.

Located at Golfito you have several marinas:

  • Banana Bay Marina has 20+ slips and a few moorings, restaurant, bar, laundry, wifi
  • Land and Sea, 3 slips and 6 moorings, lounge area, accommodations, wifi, laundry
  • Fish Hook, 25+ slips (fishing boats), restaurant, bar, wifi, accommodations, laundry
  • IGY Gulfito Bay Marina. New as of 2017 w/ 50 slips and plans to expand to 132 slips

As the first stop in Costa Rica, we had to accomplish some official paperwork.  We needed to check in (Immigration, Customs, and Port Captain), get a fishing license, and apply for a permit to visit at Isla del Coco.  We wanted to complete these goals within 2 days, if possible.

However, timing was not on our side.  We arrived on a beautiful Sunday morning, a day earlier than we anticipated.  But as you can imagine, a lot of businesses are closed on Sunday and the following day, 1 May is Labor Day, a public holiday.  Gesh!

Land and Sea

Land and Sea is located in between Banana Bay Marina and Fish and Hook Marina.  We dropped the hook in front of her small marina as there was good depth, holding, and a breeze.  We secured the boat and went ashore to begin our clearance process. Image below shows Banana Bay Marina (the yellow buildings with fishing yachts in front) and a small green two story building (to the right) with two boats in front.

Banana Bay Marina and Land and Sea Marina-

Banana Bay Marina and Land and Sea Marina-

Katie, the owner at Land and Sea, proved to be very helpful.  She told us where we could dump trash and recycling and where to find the market and immigration.  She also exchanged $20 U.S. for colones which comes out to 10,000 colones. For me, the easiest conversion is about 500 colones to $1.  Of course, the conversion is a bit better at 575 or so, but that math in my head, is too hard for me.

The town of Golfito is located on one long, main street.  There is one small secondary street that runs parallel to the main street, but it is short and has mostly bars.

Immigration (Migracion)

Immigration is located about ½ mile from Land and Sea and has a giant red and white antenna on its roof making it easy to identify.  Upon our first visit, Juaquin, the immigration officer, told us we needed to have copies made of our documentation (3 copies of our boat paper work, 3 copies of Matt’s passport, 1 copy of my passport, 2 copies of our Zarpe-exit paperwork from Panama).  Then he gave us instructions of where to get the copies at a place close to Land and Sea.  Oh dear, so we walked back, found the copy place, paid 1500 colones ($3) and went back to immigration.

As Matt did the formalities, I sat and chatted with Juaquin who was oh so willing to share his excitement of Costa Rica.  He informed me about park regulations, gave directions to the Port Captain and Customs, shared some tour tips, and gave me the scoop on the permit process for Isla del Coco.

Isla del Coco is about 300nm from Costa Rica.  Regulations state that you need a permit which requires that you be checked into the country.  Bummer.  You see, Isla del Coco is on the way to the Galapagos.  We wanted to clear out of Costa Rica, head 300nm to Isla del Coco and then sail 400nm to Galapagos.  It is 600nm and 5.5 days out of our way to go to Isla del Coco, then back to Costa Rica, then past them to get to Galapagos.  You see our quandary?  None the less, Juaquin told us to go to the Port Captain who would be able to give us the application for the permit.

Juaquin also found out that Customs was closed on Sundays, but they would be open on the next day, even though it was a holiday.  It is unusual to find someone so very accommodating, kind, and compassionate during the clearance process-what a gem!

Port Captain

Following Juaquin’s directions, we walked about 1 mile to the Port Captain’s building.  The boat clearance went fairly routine.  We inquired about the Isla del Coco application and were informed that we had to get the permit from MEREILT which was in charge of the National Parks.

Since it was extremely hot and we were a bit tired of walking, we hopped in a cab.  These offices were not far, but off a dirt road, surrounded by jungle.  It was amazing.  All of the wood buildings were connected by a long low bridge or walkway which was covered in plants and flowers.  Working here you felt like you were in the jungle, living, breathing among the animals.  Breathtaking, but hot and humid even in the shade.

Our timing was not the best as it was lunchtime on a Sunday.  We managed to locate one guy who spent a good 45 minutes trying to track down the right person who could help us.  Evidently, MEREILT handles all of the National Parks except the Isla del Coco.  The correct office to handle the Isla del Coco permit is the Cocos Island Marine Conservation Area (ACMIC).  He put us in touch with a man on the phone who promised to send the permit to Matt via email.  Sweet, feeling like mission accomplished.

The next day, we walked down main street and popped in to a few grocery stores before catching a cab to the Duty-Free Zone where the Customs office was located.

Customs Office (Aduana)

The process is fairly simple and efficient.  It took us about 30-minutes in-and-out.  Since we were there, we decided to walk around the Duty-Free Zone.  This was about 1/100th of the size of the duty-free area in Panama, thank goodness.  We could not technically buy anything as you are supposed to obtain a tarjeta (ticket) 24 hours before you shop.  It is meant to increase tourism and require people to stay at least one night. Not a big deal as most of the shops were appliances, home goods, and liquor.  We did not need anything from here.

Friends of ours told us about some cruisers who formed a group called Panama Posse.  About 80 boats started in Mexico and were headed toward Panama. This group shares information on the countries, anchorages, and places they’ve been along the way, including Costa Rica.  The organizer, Dietmar has put together several discounts with marinas, chandleries, and restaurants.  We decided to join, to get intel on Costa Rica and some discounts.

On Labor Day, the Panama Posse was having a party at the IGY Golfito Bay Marina with free beer, BBQ, and music.  We had not been to this new marina and wanted to check it out and meet some new friends.  There were about 25 people, primarily from the States who were heading to Panama.  Most of the other fleet were already in Panama.  We had a really nice time, met some great people, swapped stories about anchorages and islands, and got a cool new shirt!

Panama Posse Group at IGY Golfito Marina

Panama Posse Group at IGY Golfito Marina

IGY Golfito Marina and Me Enjoying a cold drink in the water

IGY Golfito Marina and Me Enjoying a cold drink in the water

Day 3, we headed back to Land and Sea to seek out information from Katie.  We needed to know if she knew of an agent that could help us with the Isla del Coco’s permit.  She directed us to Bruce Blevens who runs Fish Hook Marina next door.

Isla del Coco Permit

Bruce is an agent who helps a lot of fishing charter boats (who have a lot more disposable income than we do).  He was extremely helpful and informed us that it would take 30-35 days and cost thousands of dollars to get the permit.  He recently helped a charter boat who had to hire two attorneys, make two trips to San Jose, and hire a secondary agent. Evidently, Costa Rica is not wild about issuing permits except to local charter or fishing boats.  Shoot.  We decided to skip the permit and find another way. P.S.  the man from ACMIC never emailed Matt.

Fishing License

We were told we needed to obtain a fishing license if we have fishing gear on the boat.  Even if we never dropped the hooks in the water.  So, we found out that the fishing permits come from Incopesca.  The office was closed the two previous days so we were planning on stopping by after visiting Bruce.  However, both Bruce and Katie said that it was not necessary to pay for a license unless we were outfitted with a ton of outriggers – like a professional boat.  Since, we are only trolling for dinner, they said it would be fine.

So, even though we did not get the fishing license or Isla del Coco permit, we did manage to save thousands of dollars and a ton of paperwork.  As it turns out, it didn’t cost us a penny to clear into Costa Rica, except the cab rides to and from Aduana at $2 each way.

Coming Up Next:

  • Bahia Drake
  • Quepos
Sugar Shack Puerto Obeldia

Adventures Clearing into Panama

We woke up in the peaceful, serene bay of Puerto Carreto to the sounds of nature. It was delightful, but we had to clear into Panama, so we left and motored the 8 miles to Puerto Obaldia. A local named, Victor Luna helps cruisers with the clearance process for $20. We had a WhatsApp number (because all islanders are on WhatsApp) but without wifi that number is useless. Matt the persistent and patient one in our group, kept searching for wifi, and finally was able to get something off of GoogleFi which enabled us to make a call. The woman who answered told us that she expected to see Victor at 12n and would send a message. We arrived at 10am.

Our friend who gave us Victor’s info, said that sometimes it’s easier to flag down another panga driver and ask them to get Victor. So, after waiting over an hour we did just that. A panga driver was heading into town so I jumped up, whistled, and waved him over. To our surprise, when I asked “conoce Victor” (translation “do you know Victor”) he said “me” how ironic – what luck!

We grabbed our paperwork, hopped into his panga, and headed to the Panama shore for the very expensive cruising permit we so desired. First stop, police station at the entrance of town. It was a makeshift “office’ that reminded me of part of a fort with no doors and long rectangle windows to stick weapons out and hide from incoming fire. He was pleasant enough, asked all the normal questions, verified stamps in our passports. The dates in our passports were different than the exit date on our Zarpe which caused a little confusion. They informed us several times, we must stop back by the police before leaving and after all the paper work was complete. UNDERSTOOD.

Next up immigrations. They need two copies of everything: boat paperwork, zarpe, passports (need two more copies of everything for the cruising permit). Victor took us by the copy place and for $3 we got our first set of 10 copies. Victor as a tour guide/agent is awesome, the down side is it’s all in Spanish and a long, slow process. The immigration office and cruising permit take the longest and require a substantial amount of patience.

At port authority you meet Victor Oreto, Victor Luna’s nephew who is the port captain. This guy can stamp paperwork like no tomorrow. 7+ copies of each of the 5 documents that get stamped twice including the police copies. We also had the added pleasure of clearing in on a national holiday – Mother’s Day which added an additional $40 to the total fee. For some reason, Matt had to pick a Zarpe location of either Puerto Lindo or Puerto Portobello even though the Zarpe is supposed to be good for all of Panama. Guessing it will become apparent when we get the Zarpe for clearing out.

During our waiting periods I captured some photos of Puerto Obeldia, Panama:

Church at Puerto Obedalia.

Church at Puerto Obedalia.

School at Puerto Obedalia.

School at Puerto Obedalia

After we were all done, we head back to the police hut to make sure our passports are stamped. They wanted to come and inspect the boat which was fine, but first they wanted us to move the boat. We had anchored out a bit and they wanted the boat directly across from their dock.

Sugar Shack only a few meters away, but police asked us to move closer.

Sugar Shack only a few meters away, but police asked us to move closer.

Victor our guide and driver.

Victor our guide and driver.

So, Victor brought us back to our boat where we moved it a whopping 200 meters. Wayne stayed on the boat and Matt and I jumped back into Victor’s panga, and back to the police hut to get our passports. We waited, patiently. Then back to the boat, the inspection was routine, but it’s been a 3-hour long process and our smiles were starting to fade. All is good. After $198 for the cruising permit, $315 for immigration, $40 for Victor (since we had so many back and forth trips) we had our boat paperwork, stamps, and cruising permit.

Since our clearance process into Panama took a lot longer than we expected, we had to shift our plans. We still wanted to arrive at the next stop during daylight, so we decided to head to Puerto Escoses, 25 miles away.

Puerto Escoses is a pretty bay that is well protected from the sea. We arrived at sunset in time to hear the orchestra come alive from the jungle. There were many sounds we could not make out, a sort of howling or something gave us pause about exploring the shoreline. But with no other man-made lights, we had a perfect view of the stars, planets, and constellations. It was extremely peaceful and gorgeous.

Puerto Escoses

Puerto Escoses

Puerto Obeldia proved to be a great clearance port.

Aruba Bound

The time had come to leave Bonaire (“again”) and it was much harder the second time around.  Matt and I had been here close to 70 days, met a lot of good friends, got into a comfortable routine, accomplished a lot of projects, and dove a lot of beautiful sites.  But we needed to head to Aruba.

On Friday, Jane, Cindy, and I went on our normal early morning walk and had planned to end it at Gio’s Gelataria and Cafe.  As we finished our 5 mile walk, we padded into Gio’s all nice and sweaty. To my surprise, all of our spouses were there awaiting our arrival for an impromptu going away party.  Jane and Cindy brought brownies, provided a super cool Bonaire hat, and stunning photo cards.  It was so sweet and touching and made me feel so incredibly blessed to have met such caring and generous friends.

Bonaire at Gio's

Going Away Celebration with Gelato

Gio's in Bonaire

Walking group with Priscilla at Gio’s

After a full day of cleaning and preparing to leave, we headed to dinner with our friend’s on Ad Astra: Eric, Max, and Kyle.  We went to Blue Garden, the Brazilian place which was a fabulous night of tasty food, great company, and lively conversation!  Unfortunately, I did not manage to get a group shot – slacker that I am!

It was time to go as our good friends from Texas (Shawn and Sharon) are due to arrive in Aruba soon.  We decided that it would be best to leave Saturday around 1500 for the best weather and the best shot at arriving in the morning.  The weather apps and charts indicated a 12-14 hour downwind sail.  After a little mooring shuffle, we set off toward Curacao. Our plan was to sail over the western tip of Curacao to Aruba’s lower tip.

Matt expertly set our big spinnaker and we were on our way.  At a comfortable 8-9 knots we were going to be really early and would arrive at dark, but we held our course and sail plan.  Matt set the fishing rods and teasers with the hope of catching some fresh fish, we ate dinner, and got ready for the night sail.

Spinnaker Sail

Spinnaker Sail on our way to Aruba

After several hours, we decided that we could not hold the course as we were heading directly for Curacao.  So, we took the kite down and put up the main canvas with one reef in the main.  At least now we should be able to point better and go around Curacao rather than through it.

I don’t do well at night when I cannot see the horizon, so I decided to take the first down shift to catch a few zzz’s.  The hope was to have the moon come out to light our way.  However, after a few hours, Matt was still going strong and told me to sleep some more. This routine happened several times.

During this time, Matt had turned on the engines when the wind died, then turned them off again when the wind returned.  Lots of sail tweaks, but maintained course.

It was not until 0400 that the moon finally came out, as a sliver, barely illuminating our path.  I finally took the helm and gave him a small reprieve. Normally I am not this useless on a night passage so it felt good to be at the helm for a small bit.

We arrived at 0830 just in time to clear in.

Aruba

Arriving Aruba – Paardenbaai Key

We had received some good intel about the check in process and even received a photo of the dock where we had to meet customs and immigration.

On the way to the dock you pass by the cruise ship terminal between the cruise ships and the reefs. Makes for an interesting passage.

Passage between cruise ship and reef

Passage between cruise ship and reef

We had heard the dock is hard on your boat as they have large, black tires which often mark up your hulls.  But evidently, enough sailors complained so they put out a 40′ section of plywood between the tug boat landings.

Aruba customs and immigration dock

Customs & Immigration Aruba

Aruba customs and immigration dock

Sugar Shack is too long for the plywood area, but we managed to avoid the tire marks.

Aruba customs and immigration dock

Local official helped tie us off at the dock

Matt had a good plan, we approached the concrete wall, on the port side, in between two tug boats slowly to get a look at it.  We then passed it and circled back to have a starboard approach.  Just as we were approaching, and I was preparing to jump off, an official hopped out of his car to catch our lines – yeah!

The officials were super nice, very friendly, and extremely professional.  They come aboard, hand you the paperwork, leave and wait for you to finish completing it.  Then they take all of your paperwork and passports back to their office to copy it.  Kind of weird arriving into a new country and handing your passports off to someone you don’t know and they drive off.  But they came back.  They did a quick check of the boat, processed our paperwork, and gave us some advice on anchorages.

After we were legal, we decided to head to the anchorage in front of the hotel row to check it out.  We did a drive by and then turned around to park Sugar Shack in the airport anchorage, Paardenbaai Key.  As we were getting ready to drop the hook, we received a call on the VHF radio and a friend of ours, Barry on “White Shadow” from Curacao was here – giving us a welcome.

More from Barry, Adventures of an old Sea Dog later.