Tag Archives: festival

Baie de Vaiehu, Ua Pou

Legendary Pinnacles of Ua Pou

Our first Marquesan island was Nuku Hiva.  Primarily, because we needed to refuel, reprovision, catch up on internetting, and just relax after our passage.  But our goal was to get to Ua Pou, the island with the legendary pinnacles and the official host of the Marquesan festival that only occurs once every four years.

Marquesan Festival in Ua Pou

Matt and I had been doing recognizance in Nuku Hiva to try to determine how we can attend this once in a lifetime opportunity.  We learned that there are only two small areas where anchoring is allowed for cruisers which will only hold 10 boats each.  And there are issues with both locations.  One has a horrible swell and is known as a “surf spot” and the other is actually located in part of the marine protected area. 

The other bays have anchoring available but there is no way to get from there to the main village.  The island only one main dirt road with only 10 licensed transport drivers.  The main village will have 4 cruise ships (not sure where how they are going to fit into the small bay of Hakahau.  So, at this point we need to head to Ua Pou to scout it out for ourselves.

Passage to Ua Pou from Nuku Hiva

Ua Pou is a short 28nm sail from Nuku Hiva.  Before we pulled up the anchor, Matt spent some time cleaning up the bridle which was covered in muck.  Nuku Hiva has some stuff in the water that dirties our waterline and makes a mess of the anchor chain.  It gave us an idea of what to expect when the chain came up and it was spot on – gross!  The pressure washer was needed to clean off the chain as we pulled her up and stowed her away.  I mean it was disgusting!

With clean (or cleaner) chain, we raised the main with 1 reef and let out the jib with 2 reefs.  We were sailing along at 8-9kts in 18-20kts of wind on a beam reach.  It was a lovely sunny sailing day.  About an hour out of Ua Pou we pulled in a 2nd reef in the main as we were seeing over 20kts of wind and 11kts of boat speed.    We made it to Ua Pou in a little over 4 hours – excellent timing! 

Ducking in and out of Anchorages

We swung into the main anchorage of Hakahau to try to determine the small approved anchoring area.  There were 4 boats already in the harbor and only one of them was in the approved areas (and that was just barely in the corner).  I’d say that half of the area is not safe to anchor in due to the swell.  We also passed by the airport anchorage Baie Aneo but there was no way to get to shore.  The next bay was Hakahetau which had another small approved spot.  When we swung in it was really rolly and we decided not to stay there either.Sugar Shack dropped the hook in Baie de Vaiehu.  There is no village in this bay, just beautiful, colorful mountains.

About Ua Pou

Ua Pou, has a very picturesque geology.  It has been described as having a collection of 12 pointy pinnacles that soar like missiles from the basaltic shield.  They form one of the Marquesas’ most photographed scenes even though they are almost constantly shrouded in swirling mist.  In addition to these massive pillars are a few oasis-like valleys bursting with tropical plants and beaches.

Pinnacles of Ua Pou

Pinnacles of Ua Pou

Four high basalt pillars are in the center of the island.  These pinnacles are Poumaka at 979m, Matahenua at 1,028m, Pouake at 1,034m and the tallest Mount Oave  at 1,203m.  Oave is the highest elevation in the Marquesas.  They reach high above the surrounding mountains. 

Ua Pou Pinnacles

Ua Pou Pinnacles

Legend of the Pinnacles

Legend has it that Ua Pou symbolizes the entrance pillars to God’s house. Huge basaltic columns reaching the sky and holding the names of legendary warriors: Poutetaunui and Poumaka. In 1888, they inspired poet Robert Louis Stevenson, who mentioned them as “volcanic arrows looking like a church bell tower.”

We are blessed to be visiting during a time when these majestic pinnacles are often standing tall and free of clouds.  From what I understand, this is a rare treat.  Yet, we have seen these giants at least 4-5 times per week since we’ve been here.

As we discussed in the history of the Marquesas’ islands, many inhabitants were ravaged by diseases introduced by European explorers and traders.  However, the Catholic priests on Ua Pou were able to preserve the population by quarantining the native population in the churches whenever visiting ships arrived.  Thereby reducing their exposure to external diseases and making Ua Pou one of the most populous of the Marquesas Islands until the 1980’s.  Today, the population is estimated to be 2,300 inhabitants which is roughly 1/3 the population of Nuka Hiva.

Drone Shots of Sugar Shack at Baie de Vaiehu

Baie de Vaihoe, Ua Pou

Baie de Vaiehu, Ua Pou

Farerei Haga_Team Tiki Tiki

Rangiroa Festival: Farerei Haga

Le Maire, Julien Mai of Makatea told us about the Rangiroa festival called Farerei Haga.  The festival was scheduled to start in mid-September.  We had missed the majority of the Heiva festival in July.  So, I really wanted to attend part of this festival, even though it would be much smaller.

Fishing Competition

Sugar Shack was anchored right outside the commune area where the majority of the events were being held.  We went ashore and were able to see a lot of events.  The first event we watched was the spear fishing while free diving results.  Each competitor brought their catch to shore.  The fish were categorized, weighed and strung together.  Winners were based on quantity, weight, and we think difficulty to shoot.

Fish caught by spear fisherman

Fish caught by spear fisherman

We also watched the sport fisherman bring in their catch:

Sport fisherman catch

Sport fisherman catch

All the fish from both events were sold to benefit the games.

Outrigger Races

While on board Sugar Shack we watched the two different outrigger races.  First were the solo outriggers.  They were so extremely fast right out the gate. The competitors went right in front of Sugar Shack, around an orange marker and back to the docks.

The next race was the 6-man team outriggers.  The winner paddled for an hour traveling across the shore, out a few miles, back to Avatoru and back to the dock. The teams were closely followed by spectator boats making it hard to see the outriggers.  They are between the shore and the fishing boats.

Solo Outrigger Event

Solo Outrigger Event

The outriggers are crudely made, but somehow withstand the power of 6 Tahitians catapulting them through the waters.

6-Man Outrigger Canoes

6-Man Outrigger Canoes

The competitors for Farerei Haga are all locals living in Rangiroa.  We are thinking they do this competition to determine who will represent them at the larger inter island festivals.

Coconut Javelin Toss

Matt had really wanted to watch the coconut javelin toss.  We heard about this sport while we were in the Gambiers, but had never watched it.  Each competitor builds their own javelins (between 12-15) that are clearly marked.

Javelins for coconut toss

Javelins for coconut toss

The competitors make their poles out of a light wood with spears on the end (made of rebar).  Colorful tape holds the spears onto the pole.  They are aiming for a coconut that has been wedged on a metal pole 15 meters up in the sky.  The officials mark the coconut into 4 sections.  The top section is worth 10 points, the next section is worth 8, the next is worth 6 and the bottom is worth 4.  The goal is not only to hit the coconut but to hit it near the top for the most points.

Women’s Competition Javelin Toss

We watched the women first.  They take one of their very light and wobbly poles and get into position.  I befriended the woman in black only to realize she is the reining champion.  And boy did she prove it today!  I tried to capture her incredible toss below.

In position, then balance on pointer finger, then pull back for a throw, and then full release.

Women's Javelin Contest

Women’s Javelin Contest

She was the only one that hit the coconut in almost every round.  The officials pulled the pole down to determine where the coconut was hit after each 5 minute round.

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Check out the photo below as it shows just how difficult it is to excel in this sport.  The top photo shows a javelin just above another stuck one and barely missing the coconut.

Near misses

Near misses

We did not stay to watch the men as the women’s event took forever.  But we did go back to look at the coconuts.  We found this one that had been 8 times!  Can you see the holes?

Coconut hit 8 times

Coconut hit 8 times

Dancing and Drums: Highlight of Farerei Haga 

A successful Farerei Haga festival would not be complete without dancing and drums. We witnessed two nights of competition and it was spectacular.

Team Tiki Tike Dancing

Team Tiki Tike Dancing

As the women shacked their hips, the men squatted and did a in/out movement with their legs.  The dancers thighs had to be killing them.

Team Tiki Tiki

Team Tiki Tiki

The final night was for the soloist to shine.  Each team had their own drum line and one male and one female dancer performed.

Solos from the dance competition

Solos from the dance competition

Team Tiki Tiki won the dance competition along with their drum line and the female soloist.  I can’t wait to learn how to move like them!

Sporting Events for Farerei Haga:

  • Soccer
  • Outrigger races (solo and 6-man teams)
  • Spear Fishing while free fiving
  • Sport Fishing
  • Bacchi Ball
  • Soccer
  • Coconut Javelin throwing
  • Coconut races (carrying pole with many coconuts on your shoulder)
  • Triathlon
  • Dancing
  • Drumming
  • Ukulele
  • Basket Weaving
  • Heavy Lifting of boulders

Unexpected Help

One time we went ashore and received help from a very sweet young man.  As we pulled up to the concrete dock, a little boy around 3-3.5 years old came up and reached for our painter (the line we tie up to docks).  I looked at him curiously, unable to speak French.  Matt said hand him the line, so I did.  He was so darn cute, he took the bitter end and wrapped it a BUNCH around a cleat.  We usually don’t use the bitter end as the painter is really long.  So, Matt took the center part of the line and tied a bowline leaving his knots as is.  

Little dock helper

Little dock helper

Día de la Independencia de Cartagena

Columbia offers many beautiful destinations, but bring Sugar Shack will only see Santa Marta.  We originally thought about sailing her down to Cartagena, but after arriving in Santa Marta and doing a little research, we felt it’d be best to leave her in Santa Marta and take the bus into Cartagena.

Cartagena in the distance.

Cartagena in the distance.

Our twelve year wedding anniversary is November 11 which also happens to be Cartagena’s Independence Day celebration.  Seems like a perfect time to go on a new adventure, don’t you think?   Jon, Mia, and Teo on “Itchy Footdecided to come on this journey with us.

Pedro de Heredia, a Spanish Commander, founded Cartagena de Indias in 1533. Its rapid growth began after the establishment of the Viceroyalty of New Granada in 1717. The Silver Age of the city is the period between 1750 and 1808. Cartagena became the richest city of the colony at that time.

On November 11, 1811, Cartagena declared its independence from Spain amidst the Peninsular War, which became Latin American Wars of Independence.  Cartagena’s Independence is an important milestone even though the city was almost destroyed in 1815 and Columbia didn’t gain full independence for several more years.

Twenty people were took the Marsol to Cartagena which took a little over 4 hours.  It was a nice bus with reclining seats and AC and it made one stop for food and bathroom breaks.

Comfy little buses transporting us to Cartagena.

Comfy little buses transporting us to Cartagena.

We checked in to our respective hotels and set a meet up place and time.  Matt and I stayed at Casa Ebano 967 for a whopping $35 per night.  Matt is almost touching both walls under the AC unit and the bathroom wall was not much bigger.   It wasn’t big, but it was clean and safe.

Entrance to hotel, two pics of small room, street of our hotel and bathroom in our room.

Entrance to hotel, two pics of small room, street of our hotel and bathroom in our room.

We walked to the Walled Colonial City or “ciudad amurallada” which consists of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It is a real gem of colonial architecture, packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces, and mansions with their overhanging balconies and shady patios.

The old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the thick walls built to protect it against enemies. Construction began towards the end of the 16th century, after the attack by Francis Drake; until that time Cartagena was almost completely unprotected. The project took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and pirate attacks. Only in 1796 was it finally finished, just 25 years before the Spaniards were eventually expelled.

Entrance to Walled City.

Entrance to Walled City.

Walled City from the parade route.

Walled City from the parade route.

The streets are lined with colorful store fronts, offices, apartments, cafes, hotels, hostels, and more.  Several have over scale wooden doors with ornate knockers or smaller doors built into them.  Some are topped with beautiful flowers crawling below their roofs, and yet others sit vacant and alone.

Pedro de Heredia was a Spanish conquistador, founder of the city of Cartagena de Indias

Pedro de Heredia was a Spanish conquistador, founder of the city of Cartagena de Indias.

University of the Arts located in the Walled City.

University of the Arts located in the Walled City.

Beautiful Colored buildings inside the old city.

Beautiful Colored buildings inside the old city.

Tons of flowers grow on and around the buildings.

Tons of flowers grow on and around the buildings.

Many buildings had large wooden doors with smaller doors built inside and large knockers.

Many buildings had large wooden doors with smaller doors built inside and large knockers.

Church dome at sunset.

Church dome at sunset.

Another beautiful dome at sunset.

Another beautiful dome at sunset.

Love these buildings sprouting with blossoms.

Love these buildings sprouting with blossoms.

Matt, Me, Teo, Mia, and Jon. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Matt, Me, Teo, Mia, and Jon. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Playing with the shadows.

Playing with the shadows. Photo credit Jon Wright.

As we made our way to the parade route the crowds great louder.  We saddled up to the crowded barrier and waited for the parade to start.  Evidently, Columbians like to celebrate with foam.  They sell foam canisters for 5,000 pesos and everyone is fair game.  It did not take long before we were covered in a soap type foam that dissolved into a bit of a sticky mess.  Nothing mattered, everyone was fair game and everyone got hit or sprayed, many times.

Oh ya, this tastes good! Photo credit: Jon Wright

Oh ya, this tastes good! Photo credit: Jon Wright

There is a parade in the back ground. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

There is a parade in the back ground. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Mia and Jon have been foamed.

Mia and Jon have been foamed.

The parade started and captured our attention.  It was a beautiful display of costumes, music, beauty contestants, culture, and history.  Many men dress up in female costumes which is part of their heritage.  There were also many men dressed as woman celebrating LGBT we assume since they were out in full force too.

This woman was so beautiful, I believe she is a Miss Columbia contestant.

This woman was so beautiful, I believe she is a Miss Columbia contestant.

I loved this trio.

I loved this trio.

He danced his way across Cartagena in those heels.

He danced his way across Cartagena in those heels.

Still smiling at the end of the parade. White flakes are foam.

Still smiling at the end of the parade. White flakes is foam.

So many bright and beautiful costumes. Loved the yellow.

So many bright and beautiful costumes. Loved the yellow.

Pasties covered their

Pasties covered their “private parts” dancing through town.

Little people with large heads bobbing on down the road.

Little people with large heads bobbing on down the road.

They carried these huge floral arrangements throughout the parade.

They carried these huge floral arrangements throughout the parade.

Just had to show you on fun cross dresser.

Just had to show you on fun cross dresser.

Enjoying the view from the top of the wall. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Enjoying the view from the top of the wall. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Snagged a front row spot and loving it. Photo credit Jon Wright.

Snagged a front row spot and loving it. Photo credit Jon Wright.

Love this little beauty!

Love this little beauty!

Mia and I enjoying a non foam moment

Mia and I enjoying a non foam moment

Interesting Colombian Facts:

  • Colombian pesos are confusing and should therefor drop three zeros.
  • Colombians are hard workers and have an entrepreneurial spirit.
  • Foam does not taste very good.
  • Parade costumes are the most elaborate and elegant ones I’ve seen.
  • The heels they wear (both men and women) are ridiculously high!
  • The streets of Columbia are very clean with little litter.