Tag Archives: festival

Matavaa Festival: Marquesan Cultural Festival Part I

The Marquesan Cultural Festival called “Matavaa” is only held once every four years.  The location rotates between the islands and this year it was held in Ua Pou.   It is the 12th event that will bring in participants from six Marquesan islands (Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Huka, Tahuata, Ua Pou, and Fatu Hiva).  It will also include participants with Marquesan heritage from Rapai Nui (Easter Island) and two teams from Tahiit (Maohu Nui Ahima and Toko Henua). 

This is not like most traditional festivals.  It is a cultural celebration to pass down Marquesan traditions to the younger generations through dance, song, music, tattooing (traditional and modern), and carving (wood, stone, and bone).  They do not host sporting activities, but they do have educational conferences, exhibitions of stone and wood carvings, tattooing (traditional and modern) and of course song and dance.

Opening Ceremonies

The opening ceremonies started with a parade of all the participants including dancers, musicians, artists, and delegates.  Each of the 9 groups gave a 15-20-minute performance.  They had a few speeches and raised the three flags (French, French Polynesia, and Marquesas).  After a short break, we all walked the mile back to the beach for the next ceremony.

Matavaa Opening Ceremonies

Matavaa Opening Ceremonies

Our favorite group, Rapa Nui captured my heart the first day.  Their passion and love for story telling through dance was contagious!

Rapa Nui Opening Performance

Rapa Nui Opening Performance

The next event was the receiving of the traditional Marquesan catamaran which carried the Matavaa Tiki.  Ua Pou’s dancers and drummers covered the beach while several other island performers climbed up on the rocks lining the pier.  We all awaited the arrival of the vessel.   As the small boat came in, the dancers welcomed the crew in with their sultry performances.

Welcoming the Tahiti Nui

Welcoming the Tahiti Nui

Artisan Market

An artisan market was set up near the main stadium which had many spectacular displays.  Artists were selling ukuleles, painted parchments, stone carvings, jewelry, wood carvings, baskets, purses, feathers, pearls, and oh so much more.

Artisan Market Wares

Artisan Market Wares

Celebratory Lunch

The locals hosted a free lunch for everyone.  It was really fascinating watching the preparation of the traditional pig BBQ in the ground.  The had 6 pits, cooked 3 huge pigs wrapped in banana leaves, and served in the gorgeous traditional wood serving platters. 

Preparing the Underground Pig Feast

Preparing the Underground Pig Feast

A host of volunteers served the food to all those that clambered toward the tables.  But they were very nice and super generous with the portions.

The Matavaa festival was “green” and had no plastic serving plates, utensils or cups.  Therefore, you had to bring your own or make your own with leaves.  It was an entire Marquesan meal.  We used our super cool Think Sport Travel plate with its own fork and spoon.

Free Lunch for All

Free Lunch for All

Carving of Stone

I always wondered how the stone carvings happened.  Off to the side of the main stadium were 9 covered areas with large, various shaped stone rocks.  Each island group received their rock and crafted a master piece.  The first group started with a shortish, fat rock and created 3 tiki heads of a mother and her two children.  The lower left photo is the initial rock, the lower right shows it part of the way drawn and carved, and then the final product (4 days of work).

Stone Carving Competition

Stone Carving Competition

Another really cool sculpture and its progression.

Stone Carving Competition #2

Stone Carving Competition #2

Several other stone sculptures carved at the festival.  One sculpture had a front and back.  They carved long braided hair on the back.

Stone Carving Competition #3

Stone Carving Competition #3

Carving of Tikis

Each island group received a large tree trunk to carve as they pleased.  Using numerous chain saws and other various wood carving tools they created master pieces in a matter of days!  Of course, I had a few favorites that I followed from beginning to end.  This large tiki was a true work of art.

Wood Carving Competition #1

Wood Carving Competition #1

My favorite group was from Rapa Nui.  Mostly because they had great facial expressions and looked like they truly loved doing what they were doing.  From the dancers, to the drummers, to the wood carvers.  We watched the carving of the Rapa Nui Moai from a huge tree trunk to the finished product and it was amazing.

Wood Carving Rapa Nui

Wood Carving Rapa Nui

I met this super nice man who was carving a small stone tiki.  He was so very nice and talented.  I wanted him to make me a tiki but could not imagine where I would put it.  Another carver was selling medium size wooden tikis made of rosewood at the artisan market.

Stone and Wood Carvings

Stone and Wood Carvings

Tattoo

We attended an educational conference on the history of traditional tattooing.  It was absolutely fascinating to learn why the received tattoos, what it meant, and how they were done (traditional style).  Each person would write their story on their body through tattoos.  It is not an alphabet format but rather indicative of nature.  Children do not get their first tattoo until they are about 14 years old (after their skin stops stretching).  It is a huge celebration as it indicates the transition from childhood to man/womanhood.

Traditional tattoos are implanted using tree bark and human bone.  The bone transfers “mana” into the recipient and is very painful.  It is actually called “tatto-o” like “ow.”  The top left photo is the modern tattoo process and all of the other 5 photos are traditional tattoo process. 

Tattoo: Modern and Traditional

Tattoo: Modern and Traditional

Tattoo is the telling of a story, each tattoo holds significant meaning and is placed on the body for specific relevance.

Tattoos on Performers

Tattoos on Performers

Be sure to see Part II of Matavaa Festival: Marquesan Cultural Festival Part I

Matt in his own private oasis

Killing Time in Ua Pou

We arrived in the main anchorage of Hakahau, Ua Pou several weeks before the Marquesan festival.  Not because it is a great place to be (because the anchorage stinks), but because we wanted to secure a spot in the approved anchorage before the festival.  So, what did we do to entertain ourselves?

Hike Along the Water’s Edge

Matt flew the drone around the out skirts of the bay and discovered a ledge that is only visible at low tide.  We decided to explore the ledge and see how far it would take us around the island.  It was a beautiful walk over lots of large rocks, pebbles, and lava formations.  It was really surprising to see how many fish were hanging out in the tide pools.  not just tad poles, but pretty little butterfly fish, angels and more.  Shocking really.  They must have come in with a wave and got stuck in their new home (bottom images).

Ua Pou Water's edge walk

Ua Pou Water’s edge walk

We found a beautiful little bridge that allowed the giant waves to flow underneath and above.  Perfect photo op for me.  We also found a little blue lagoon with gorgeous plant life and fish all around.  Of course Matt had to climb down and float inside this small piece of paradise.

Ua Pou

Ua Pou

When we returned, the Tahiti Nui boat was pulling in.  To our great amusement they had a large welcoming party to greet the Tahitian performers including dancing, singing, and drums!  My goodness if they do this just as they are arriving, I can hardly wait until the actual festival.

Welcoming the Tahiti Nui

Welcoming the Tahiti Nui

We spent lots of time on shore to avoid being in the uncomfortably anchorage.  However, when conditions were really bad, we were on board to ensure its safety.  Time moved slowly as we awaited the start of the festival.  I was anxious to leave Ua Pou and this anchorage, but my desire to be a part of the celebrations superseded it all!

Local performer humors me

Pre-Festival Celebrations

This Marquesan Arts Festival is an amazing cultural event which occurs every four years. It is a way for Marquesans to reclaim and revitalize the culture of their ancestors and share their rich history with the children and future generations.  The Marquesan history was almost lost in 1815 when the French colonized them and forbade anything related to their heritage and traditions.   This included dancing, singing, and tattooing.  We were lucky enough to be here for the pre-festival celebrations. 

There will be 9 groups.  Each of the 6 Marquesan islands will be represented including Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva, Tahuata, and Ua Huka.  In addition, Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Mangareva (Gambiers), and Tahiti will send dancers and musicians to perform for each other.  Artists start practicing six months before the event providing visitors an opportunity to enjoy their beautiful voices and drumming ahead of time.

It is a rare treat and a huge honor to be able to witness this spectacular celebration.  We specifically, planned our schedule to be in Ua Pou to participate in this event which only occurs every four years.  Each time it is held at a different island.

Pre-Festival Celebrations

As we mentioned in the last blog pos, it was a tight squeeze to get into the anchorage (see How did we do that in Hakahau”).  With only 10 boats allowed to anchor in a limited space.  So, once we got settled and were confident the boat was safe, we headed to shore for an hour to fly the drone.  We wanted to capture the tight quarters from the sky – but guess what?  We are in a no-fly zone (again) as the airport is in the next bay over – 5 miles away!  Ugh. Luckily Matt was able to get an exception so we will have more drone shots soon.

We did find out that a pre-festival dress rehearsal was being held later in the evening.  Awesomeness!  Our French friends determined when, where, and how to get a table and we were set!  We met at the dock later that evening and walked the mile to the sports center where the event was to take place.

Dress Rehearsal – Pre-Festival Celebration

We were arrived early for the pre-festival at 1830.  Music started at 1900, food served 1930, prayer, then dancing 2000.  Except, it is island time so everything was running late.  We were all struggling to stay awake as it was way past sailor’s midnight (2100).  A nice meal was served on environmentally friendly plates.  They had bamboo cutlery, recycled plates and cups.  Pretty darn impressive for a small island with 2,200 people.  The theme of the festival is recycling so no plastic is allowed.

Recycled products for the festival

Recycled products for the festival

When the music and dancing started, we were full of excitement.  The performers had makeup and paint all over them.  Their costumes are one time use so I was surprised to see how intricate some of them were for a dress rehearsal.  

Performing at the Dress Rehearsal

Performing at the Dress Rehearsal

Costumes and Make-Up

You can see some of the men had painted their thighs black.  Some was just smeared on, but others were intricate designs.  The unfortunate thing was that it came off as they slapped their bodies during the routines.

Drumming Extravaganza

The drumming was amazing and evoked all sorts of emotions. They could make you float high in the sky or feel loaded down with rocks with the pounding of their rhythm.  The dancers did a great job.  They still need some work over the next two weeks before the festival, but they still were pretty darn good.  It is a “pre-festival” fundraiser after all.  The interesting thing was that they all faced inward which gave the audience a view of their backs – no matter where you sat.  I could not understand this at all, was it a mistake?  Nope, all of the dances were choreographed in a way that had the dancers facing each other (like in a circle) and the audience was left with watching their backside. 

Dancers from Ua Pou

Dancers from Ua Pou

Bird Dance

The “bird dance” is a special dance performed by each group showing the rise of the phoenix from the ashes.  This is the first time I had seen this dance performed (even though I had heard about it from many people).  I was floored by the beauty of the dance and the feathers on the dancer.  It was a truly exotic and intoxicating performance.  I thought if I am this moved by one performance at the pre-festival, what will the actual festival be like?   

Pre-Festival Festival

In this little bay is the designated area for cruisers (personal boats), small dock for the local fishing boats, beach front for the canoes and outriggers and another dock for the “cruise ships.”  I say “cruise ships” because they are of the smaller nature.  The Tahiti Nui is the Prime Minister’s yacht and has been designated to bring all of the artists from neighboring islands to Ua Pou.  So, they had to maneuver in and around all the other boats within a really small space which made it terribly exciting to watch.

In addition, there was the Ari Nui which we lovingly call the “mullet.”  Why is that?  Because it is business in the front and party in the rear.  What the heck does that mean?  The front of the boat is the supply ship with cranes and containers and the back of the boat is a cruise ship with guests.  Yep, you read that right!

Celebrating the Arrival of the Participants

The really cool part of watching the arrival of both of these ships was the welcome reception.  Each time a new group arrived, locals would gather at the dock and for a pre-festival festival performance.  Complete with drums, flowers, and some costumes representing their island.  We saw Tahiti Nui deliver at least 5 different groups.  A group of dancers and drummers would gather at the pier and welcome all of its visitors.

Tahiti Nui and Ari Nui

Tahiti Nui and Ari Nui

Also, a small red ferry would bring people from Nuku Hiva to Ua Pou.  They often pissed off the larger boats by zipping around them while they were trying to maneuver.