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New Caledonia Nickel: The Green Gold Beneath Our Feet

New Caledonia’s tropical climate had spent millions of years weathering the island’s ultramafic rocks. Rainwater slowly leached away some minerals while concentrating others—including nickel and cobalt—into layers near the surface. In other words, Mother Nature had been quietly marinating the mountains in nickel for a very, very long time.

Nickel is one of those things you can see everywhere in New Caledonia without necessarily realizing what you’re looking at. The red-orange mountains, enormous scars in the hillsides, unusual green rocks—and even some of the economic history of Nouméa—all lead back to nickel.

The red-orange mud can be seen up close and personal at Prony Bay.  This clay gets all over your shoes, clothing, feet, dinghy and boat.  It is very difficult to remove.

Getty stock photos from New Caledonia

Getty stock photos from New Caledonia

The unusual green rocks are primarily garnierite—a name used for a group/mixture of nickel-rich hydrated silicate minerals. It forms when New Caledonia’s original ultramafic rocks, particularly peridotite, are intensely weathered over millions of years.

The green color comes from nickel replacing magnesium within these minerals. The more nickel-rich varieties can be an almost startling bright green

This photo came from Ilo Casy.  You can see the green pockets sprinkled on the hillside.

Mining Started

Early miners literally dug the ore out by hand. By the late 19th century, the nickel rush was in full swing, attracting companies and workers from around the world. Thio became an important mining center, and the Société Le Nickel (SLN) was established in 1880.

The industry grew from pickaxes and wheelbarrows into enormous open-pit operations. 

By the 20th century, the landscape around some mining areas looked less like a tropical paradise and more like someone had taken a giant bite out of the mountain.

New Caledonia’s Nickel Today

And here’s the fascinating part: New Caledonia is still one of the world’s significant nickel producers. In 2024 it ranked fifth globally, producing about 10% of the world’s nickel. This metal remains a major part of the territory’s economy and exports.

But nickel has become a complicated relationship.

The metal is valuable because it’s used in stainless steel, alloys and increasingly in technologies associated with the energy transition.

Yet mining comes with environmental costs, particularly on an island famous for its extraordinary biodiversity. Mining can remove vegetation and topsoil and send sediment into waterways and coastal ecosystems. Recent research has documented the long-term effects of terrestrial mining on New Caledonia’s coastal environment.

And economically, the nickel industry has had some seriously rough seas lately. New Caledonia has faced falling prices, intense competition from Indonesia, energy costs, mine closures and the broader economic and political turmoil of recent years. In 2024, nickel production and the wider economy were hit particularly hard.

In 2025, New Caledonia’s metallurgical operations produced more than 72,000 tons of nickel, a substantial rebound from the previous year.

We did not visit any of the nickel mines but we did get the “pleasure” of seeing them hard at work.  In Prony Bay you get the mud color all over your feet, shoes, clothing, dinghy, and boat.  In addition, the rising smoke leaves all sorts of yuckiness on your boat.

So next time you’re sailing past one of those strangely red mountains, take a closer look.

You’re not just looking at dirt.

You’re looking at a geological jackpot that helped build modern New Caledonia—and a resource that has been both blessing and burden for more than a century.

Not bad for a bunch of rocks.

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Ile Tenia is a luscious Marine Reserve

It was time for us to meet up with some friends.  We join three other boats: Felix le Cat, Anahata, and Wave Spirit, out at a little island called Ile Tenia by the reef.

This little slice of heaven can only be enjoyed during settled weather conditions. 

We had very light winds and a slight swell around high tide.  But it was still beautiful.

Ile Tenia

Ile Tenia

Ile Tenia is a marine reserve. The government awarded Ile Tenia to Bouts d’Brousse.  This company allows tourists and cruisers to discover the beautiful and exceptional marine environment around the little Ile Tenia.

There are reefs surround reefs around this little Ilot.

Bouts d’Brousse holds the concession to operate day trips, camping, and water taxi services to and from Ile Tenia.  However, we could only find ruins on shore.

We walked around the island on its pillowy soft shoreline which is about 2 miles. 

We found lots of sand dollars but left them on the shore as nothing is allowed to be taken..  

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Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events. 

We visited this lovely island near the end of August 2026.

Baie de Uitoe

Isolation at its Best: Ile Ducos and Ile Puen

Matt and I needed to decompress after returning from the States. We decided to go find some isolation and that is exactly what we found at Baie de Uitoe, Ile Ducos, and Ile Puen.

We left Noumea and headed west.  Our first stop was Baie de Uitoe which is part of the mainland, Grande Terre.

Sugar Shack tucked up next to the shore in 4m of water with excellent holding and protection.  We had the lovely Ilot Mathieu behind us.

Baie Uitoe, Grande Terre

Baie Uitoe, Grande Terre

We had a beautiful couple of days here with pretty calm waters and a gentle breeze.

Sweetie brought us over to Ile Mathieu where we were able to walk the long 3 mile beach.

Ile Ducos

Time for a change of scenery so we moved to Ile Ducos. We took Canal Ducos up to the north western end of the island and had a beautiful dolphin encounter.

The anchorage was stunning, calm, and peaceful.

Most cruisers head to Baie Des Moustiques which translates to Mosquito Bay.  It did not sound appealing to us so we anchored west of Baie Des Moustiques.

This is a protected islet whose fragile ecosystems require strict adherence to environmental rules (prohibition of fishing, hunting, collecting shells or plants

Matt was able to capture a few really pretty sunrise photos with the drone.

Love these glassy conditions.

And of course we had several really pretty sunset photos.

Ile Puen

Our next stop was Ile Puen.  Matt and I were able to snug up close to shore and dropped the hook in 3m of water during mid-tide.  We had great holding and were super protected.

Our only neighbors was a small herd of cows that liked to come out to bathe each morning.

Sea Treasures

We enjoyed a leisurely walk along a lovely beach and came up with a few sea treasures.  

I had never seen this cushion sea star (Culcita Novaeguineae) before.  It has a lovely pentagonal shape. 

I was not sure if it was 100% dead since it was still a bit soft and had some black on the bottom.  So, I put it in the ocean with the hopes he will come back to life.

A few beautiful shots of our home.

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual events. 

We spent time at Ile Ducos, Ile Puen, and Baie de Uitoe toward the end of August 2026.

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