Tag Archives: san blas islands

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Green Island, Panama

We had a lazy start, might be because rum was involved or because we were lulled to sleep by two pretty large thunderstorms. After we stowed the secondary anchor and cleaned up the boat, we headed to Green Island also known as Kanlildup.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

The wind did not cooperate, as we headed toward Green Island and continued to be on our nose. With our fuel tanks less than ¼ tank full, we are doing our best to conserve our diesel. But, having the wind on our nose and lots of shoals on either side of us makes it challenging to tack safely under sail. So, we motor on…

As a side note, Matt and I had wanted to fill our fuel tanks in Santa Marta, but Columbia only sold 5% bio-diesel. We could have put an additive in to make the bio-diesel burn better, but we did not want to mix fuels. So we left leave Santa Marta with our tanks less than half full.

Along the way, we pass many islands that look very inviting….after all there are 382 islands in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

Sailing (or in our case motoring) from Columbia, heading west, the islands start to become more populated with other cruisers. The Eastern San Blas islands were very desolate, remote, and not considered tourist destinations. However, as we head up the chain, we start spotting other boats and cruisers. In fact, we passed our first sail boat on the way to Green Island.

Green island’s popularity has grown over the years because it offers cruisers a nice protected bay with great snorkeling, and it is close to Rio Diablo. It’s covered with palm trees, large and small, creating a dense space of greenery.

Approaching Green Island

Approaching Green Island

Entering the anchorage, we quickly found several boats anchored around other small islands. Luckily, none are near Green Island so we have it to ourselves, for today. Not long after we anchored, a small dugout approached us with a woman, man, and small child. So, the “boat boys” begin.

To our surprise, this was the famous master mola maker and infamous transvestite, Lisa from Rio Sidra. We had read about her in our cruising guide and several cruisers had posted about her handy work. She took out each of her molas, one by one, explaining the design and intricacies of her work. She travels 4 hours from her main island to come sell her goods to tourists. As tourists don’t visit her island.  She shares the profits with her village and other mola makers.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

A traditional mola is several layers of fabric, between 3 to 7 and very intricate. A “fake” or non-traditional mola uses applique. I purchased a mermaid 5 layer mola and quickly turned it into a pillow

My new mola turned into a pillow.

My new mola turned into a pillow.

Delivering the sun.

Sailing to Puerto Velero on the way to San Blas Islands

There are many ways to sail to the San Blas Islands and many places to clear into Panama. Some people clear in at Puerto Lindo or El Provenir while others sneak into the San Blas islands and clear in further up the island chain. The problem with clearing in at Puerto Lindo and El Provenir is that you have to pass by most of the San Blas islands.  So, where does Puerto Velero come in?

Since we didn’t want to take the risk of sneaking into the country and we didn’t want to circle back, we had to find another choice.  Our best option was to clear in at Puerto Obaldia which is a small village and a fairly unique entry point. It’s located on the border of Colombia and Panama and is not a popular clearance location. The guide book and noonsite have confusing language about who is and isn’t allowed to clear in at this port. Most people just avoid it due to the uncertainty and poor anchorage.

The sail to Puerto Obaldia is roughly 260 nautical miles. We could either sail 3 days/2 nights directly from Santa Marta, Colombia to Puerto Obaldia, Panama or we could sail to Puerto Velero one day and sail the remaining 200 miles in 2 days/1 night. Puerto Velero seemed like the best choice.

After leaving the comforts of Marina Santa Marta at 630am we noticed immediately that there was something wrong with our props. Matt was at the helm and was not getting much forward propulsion even though we had prop wash. We decided to forge ahead and carefully navigated our way out of the bay. We raised our sails with two reefs in and headed south without the engines. The winds were gusting over the forecast to 35 knots and predicted 1-meter waves were over 3-meters. We settled in for a fun sail down to the Magadelana river in Barranquilla.

As we approached the Barranquilla river we watched the beautiful blue water turn greenish brown. The water became more polluted with tree branches, logs, and trash. We even saw a man’s shoe. Which is scary as the rumor is the cartel dumps bodies into the river to be carried out to sea. We started to cross at about 6 miles offshore, into the light brown water, then into the dark milkshake waters. The depth gauge started reading 3 meters when it should be hundreds, so an immediate about face back to the 3-color water highway.

Mucky waters.

Mucky waters.

Thank goodness, we had strong winds and a broad reach / run which enabled us to sail fairly quickly without the engines. However, we had to use our engines as we entered the Puerto Velero bay which was painful at 2 knots with both engines pushing 1800 rpm (normally that would give us 6 knots). Once we arrived into Puerto Velero, we dropped anchor and Matt hopped in the water with the hooka to clean the props. We had offers to clean the bottom of the boat but we did not think it needed it since the water line was pretty clean. Big mistake! Matt spent an hour cleaning off 1” of hard and soft growth from the props. No wonder they could not give us forward propulsion – poor things. Matt prepared a really nice pulled pork dinner in the pressure cooker which turned out amazing!

Day 1
• Total Daily Miles: 68
• Max Speed: 15.2
• Avg Speed: 7.2
• Hours Moving: 9
• Wind Avg: 25–30 knots
• Wing Angle: Broad Reach to Run
• Wave Height Avg: 3-4 meters

Up next, the completion of this voyage and arrival into Panama…

Matt took this photo in Santa Marta and it missed a post…

This is how the sun is delivered in Columbia. This is how the sun is delivered in Columbia.