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Island Communication Device

Lemon Cays, Panama

We woke to a delightful sunrise. Amazing way to greet the day!  Banedup is our next destination, which is part of the Eastern Lemon Cays.

Sunrise in the San Blas Islands.

Sunrise in the San Blas Islands.

Our last stop with Wayne is the Eastern Lemon Cays. There are well over a dozen islands that make up this set of islands. This is one of the most popular anchorages so there were a lot of boats already here, jockeying for the best anchor spot. The crowds takes away from the idyllic state, but not much you can do if you want to see these islands. We anchored near Banedup which is inhabited island that looks like 3 separate islands as they are joined together by sand bars that bridge two of the 3 islands together.

1 of 3 islands that are called Banedup

1 of 3 islands that are called Banedup.

Banedup was calling us, so after we swam on the anchor, enjoyed seeing another beautiful spotted eagle ray, we went to check it out up close and personal. This middle island has a make shift bar with several local Kuna selling molas, jewelry, and shells.

Dock at Banedup's second island.

Dock at Banedup’s second island.

The island does have actual bathrooms with doors, but this is a standard bathroom on the San Blas islands:

Fun images of the Banedup:

Beautiful resting spot under a shady palm tree.

Beautiful resting spot under a shady palm tree.

Local decoration - alligator skull.

Local decoration – alligator skull.

Wayne standing on a sand bar that connects the Banedup islands.

Wayne standing on a sand bar that connects the Banedup islands.

After a few beers, we decided to mosey over to the third island which had an actual structure for their bar. As we pulled up, we were greeted by some friends Toby and Sam on “Sweet Chariot” (we met them in Santa Marta). We scored by getting to the veggie boat before they went around to the cruisers! We purchased 20 small potatoes, a large papaya, 6 oranges, 6 limes, 1 cucumber, 1 pineapple for $9.50.

Veggie boat: brings fresh fruit and veggies to the cruisers and islanders.

Veggie boat: brings fresh fruit and veggies to the cruisers and islanders.

Everyone has their version of an iPhone

Would you trade your iPhone for this island phone?

Would you trade your iPhone for this island phone?

It was great catching up and sharing stories with our friends.

Wayne, Toby, Sam, Matt and I at Banedup, Eastern Lemon Cays.

Wayne, Toby, Sam, Matt and I at Banedup, Eastern Lemon Cays.

Fishing with a net for dinner.

Fishing with a net for dinner.

Local panga driver, 2 sheets to the wind....

Local panga driver, 2 sheets to the wind….

Local Kuna ladies on Banedup.

Local Kuna ladies on Banedup.

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Green Island, Panama

We had a lazy start, might be because rum was involved or because we were lulled to sleep by two pretty large thunderstorms. After we stowed the secondary anchor and cleaned up the boat, we headed to Green Island also known as Kanlildup.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

The wind did not cooperate, as we headed toward Green Island and continued to be on our nose. With our fuel tanks less than ¼ tank full, we are doing our best to conserve our diesel. But, having the wind on our nose and lots of shoals on either side of us makes it challenging to tack safely under sail. So, we motor on…

As a side note, Matt and I had wanted to fill our fuel tanks in Santa Marta, but Columbia only sold 5% bio-diesel. We could have put an additive in to make the bio-diesel burn better, but we did not want to mix fuels. So we left leave Santa Marta with our tanks less than half full.

Along the way, we pass many islands that look very inviting….after all there are 382 islands in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

Sailing (or in our case motoring) from Columbia, heading west, the islands start to become more populated with other cruisers. The Eastern San Blas islands were very desolate, remote, and not considered tourist destinations. However, as we head up the chain, we start spotting other boats and cruisers. In fact, we passed our first sail boat on the way to Green Island.

Green island’s popularity has grown over the years because it offers cruisers a nice protected bay with great snorkeling, and it is close to Rio Diablo. It’s covered with palm trees, large and small, creating a dense space of greenery.

Approaching Green Island

Approaching Green Island

Entering the anchorage, we quickly found several boats anchored around other small islands. Luckily, none are near Green Island so we have it to ourselves, for today. Not long after we anchored, a small dugout approached us with a woman, man, and small child. So, the “boat boys” begin.

To our surprise, this was the famous master mola maker and infamous transvestite, Lisa from Rio Sidra. We had read about her in our cruising guide and several cruisers had posted about her handy work. She took out each of her molas, one by one, explaining the design and intricacies of her work. She travels 4 hours from her main island to come sell her goods to tourists. As tourists don’t visit her island.  She shares the profits with her village and other mola makers.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

A traditional mola is several layers of fabric, between 3 to 7 and very intricate. A “fake” or non-traditional mola uses applique. I purchased a mermaid 5 layer mola and quickly turned it into a pillow

My new mola turned into a pillow.

My new mola turned into a pillow.