Tag Archives: snorkel

Ilot Moute

Exclusively Taha’a – La Pirogue

Taha’a is full of sorts of hidden treasures and gems.  In this blog we will take you on our journey of the coral gardens drift snorkel and we will explore a small, private hotel called La Pirogue on Ilot Moute.  We swim in crystal clear waters and I get attached by a sea cucumber.

Among many other riches, Taha’a is famous for their coral gardens.  We have had the extreme joy of swimming the coral gardens several times.  We just can’t get enough of the unique beauty.  Our friends on Agape did not have a chance to drift the gardens so we encouraged them to try again.  We each left Bora Bora with a heading toward Taha’a and met at the Coral Gardens anchorage.

The current was pretty strong when we arrived in the morning.  We tied up our dinghies, swam to shore and walked the beach to the reef.  We waited for the tour groups to get started before we jumped in. The current is strongest closest to the reef so you have to maneuver yourself quickly to avoid hitting the corals.  In order to get photos, you have to gently grab a piece of dead coral to hold on while taking your photo.  It can be tricky but exhilarating.

We found lots of sea anemones with little fish including a clown fish.  It is fascinating watching the symbiotic relationship between the fish and the coral.  The fish get cleaned by the sea anemone and in return the fish protect them.

Sea life at coral gardens

Sea life at coral gardens

We also found a little octopus, but he would not come out and pose for the camera.  The top picture is his head sticking out, the middle shows him hidden from us with just his eyes and one leg showing.  The bottom photo is a giant sea cucumber

Octopus at Coral Gardens

Octopus at Coral Gardens

Rachel took some great photos with her fancy GoPro:

Coral Gardens Taha'a

Coral Gardens Taha’a

Beautiful corals in Taha'a

Beautiful corals in Taha’a

The colors on the corals are so vibrant and pure.

More beautiful corals at Coral Gardens

More beautiful corals at Coral Gardens

Sushi and Wahoo for Dinner

Agape (Josh, Rachel and Nicola) came over for dinner.  Rachel caught a tuna and made sushi rolls and then seared the Wahoo that we caught with John, Missy, and Carl.  We had a pretty sunset and a full moon.

Sunset at Taha'a

Sunset at Taha’a

Locals were burning trash on shore which always looks horrible from the anchorage (top picture).  But, the full moon came to brighten the night.

Taha'a

Taha’a

Ilot Moute and La Pirogue

Nicola has a flight out of Tahiti in a few days so our friends needed to get going.  The next day they headed out of the pass and were met with severe weather on the nose.  Not willing to put up with the boat bashing and slow slog, they met us at a new anchorage on the Northeast side of Taha’a.  This will be a good launching point for both of us to leave towards Tahiti and Huahine.  Another cruiser had told Matt about a little island called ilot Moute with a teeny tiny hotel called La Pirogue.

Ilot Moute

Ilot Moute

La Pirogue is situated on an island surrounded by jade waters.  It houses 4 bungalows and can accommodate 8 guests at a time.  The owners live on a boat moored in front of the hotel.  Cecile runs the day to day operations along with her husband and a maid.  Cecile was kind enough to let us come onshore and partake in some libations.

Approaching La Pirogue from the anchorage.  Don’t you love their welcome sign?

La Pirogue

La Pirogue

It is a quaint and peaceful setting, with thatched roof, raked sand, comfortable seating areas.  Their weather station warms my heart.  Life is so simple here.

La Pirogue

La Pirogue

Gross Surprise!

It was pretty hot, so I soaked my feet in the clear blue water.  I was running my feet along the sand when I unburied something. A rock, piece of coral, wood or treasure?  No!  A sea cucumber who was so agitated from my rubbing that he launched his defense mechanism.  What do you ask is that?  He spits out his guts and intestines.  White, noodle things. By the time I realized what was happening they were wrapped around my toes.  I was horrified!  Rachel came and helped me out, but YUCK!  I can’t look at sea cucumbers the samw way and just did not want to touch them anymore.  After a dip in the waters, Rachel rinsed off under the coconut shower head.

Coconut Shower at La Pirogue

Coconut Shower at La Pirogue

We so enjoyed our time at La Pirogue.

La Pirogue Celebrations

La Pirogue Celebrations

We Celebrate Josh’s Birthday

The next day was Josh’s birthday!  We all went back to La Pirogue to park our dinghies.  Cecile had mentioned good snorkeling by the reef and we wanted to see it.  You could either walk in 2’ of water through the sea cucumber field or swim it.  Since my sea cucumber attack, I was hesitant to go anywhere near them, yet they were everywhere.  Thank goodness the corals were amazing or I would have climbed back on shore.

The corals were healthy and vibrant.  All inviting you to come closer and take a look at their little community.

"<yoastmark

We found several Christmas trees nestled in the coral along with many gorgeous lipstick colored clams.  Check out this lizard fish sitting on top of the coral head.

Snorkeling near Ilot Moute

Snorkeling near Ilot Moute

After a great snorkel, we headed to another islet.  Matt and I explored this small islet the day before when it was packed with locals.  It has a cement slab and rebar arches and that is about it.  But, it was pretty darn cool to hang out on the rocks in the middle of the ocean.

Agape invited us over to celebrate Josh’s birthday.  Rachel made a really tasty turkey dinner and confetti cake with lemon frosting.  Happiest of Birthday’s Josh!

Josh's Birthday

Josh’s Birthday

Aquarium Snorkeling

Our Own Personal Aquarium

Our 5-hour passage from Raiatea to Huahine was spectacular.  It is not often that we are able to raise the full main and jib as we tend to sail conservatively. However, we had fairly light winds at 15-17 kts so we through caution to the wind.  Heading to course had the wind hitting on our nose.  So, we sailed a zig zag course to catch the wind and fill the sails.  Everyone enjoyed being at sail but were anxious to see a bit of the aquarium.

Rocco and Linda enjoying time aboard Sugar Shack

Rocco and Linda enjoying time aboard Sugar Shack

We anchored off of Huahine Iti (the smaller of the two islands) at Pointe Teapara.  There is a beautiful, but popular beach just off Port Bourayne.  It was crowded full of locals and the passengers from a large 40-meter yacht called Imagine D.  They had a few Polynesian musicians, full food/beverage spread, floats and a javelin spearing contest (who could spear a coconut).  Pretty fun to watch.

Huahine always provides some amazing sunrises and sunsets

Sunsets abound!

Sunsets abound!

Matt made his super tasty chicken roti for dinner, brownies for desert and topped the night off with a little rum tasting.  A sampling of rum from Antigua (English Harbor), Bonaire (Ron Rincon), Diplomatico (Venezuela), and St. Croix (Captain Morgan Private Reserve)

Our Personal Aquarium Pool

We snorkeled three spots off of Huahine.  The reef, the Avapehi Pass, and the “nursery.”  The reef had a large selection of fish and colorful coral.  The pass had much larger fish as the waters were a lot deeper.  The pass also had several different species that we had not seen before.  But the best snorkel was the “nursery” at it felt like we were swimming inside an aquarium.  There were tons of fish, perfect clarity, and a bountiful underwater life.  Here are few pictures.

There are lots and lots of clams and they all have different colored lipstick on.  The top left shows one with green outline, yellow lips and spots whereas the center one has bright blue lipstick.  The top right is a Christmas tree worm that retracts when you come close to it.  They come in yellow, blue, purple, green and red and are no bigger than an inch.

Coral and Clams at our Aquarium

Coral and Clams at our Aquarium

Tons of fish species all around.  However, my favorite fish is the center one. His top and bottom dorsal fins are transparent.    I think the bottom right is a puffer

Super pretty fish at the nursery

Super pretty fish at the nursery

We swam with lots of schools of fish as well.  The sea life was spectacular.

A variety of fish schools

A variety of fish schools

Rocco found a shell and as we were swimming back to the dinghy a school of butterfly fish hovered about.  They were eating out of the shell.  No fear and tons of curiosity.

Rocco becoming one with the fish

Rocco becoming one with the fish

I think Rocco is part fish or was a fish in another life.  He thrives in the water and is genuinely excited to see everything.  It is such a pleasure to share this experience with he and Linda.  Swimming in our very own aquarium.

Snorkeling in the Aquarium

Snorkeling in the Aquarium

On Shore at Huahine

We did make it to shore and stopped by Izzy’s for her fabulous burgers.  We also found Marae Tahu’ea on the way to the Pearl Treehouse.  Marae Tahu’ea was dedicated to the sea-god Ruahatu.  The marae’s platform (called an “ahu”) was made up of upright coral and basalt slabs with an interior fill.   This marae dates between 16th and 18th century.  The top photo is Roco, Izzy and I, the center is Linda watching over Sugar Shack and the bottom is Marae Tahu’ea.

Huahine Adventures

Huahine Adventures

Sea Anenome in Coral Gardens, Tautau

Tautau and the Coral Gardens

The maramu finally started to dissipate so we took advantage of the break in wind and made the short 30nm sail from Huahine to Tahaa.  Raiatea and Tahaa are enclosed in the same reef which has 10 passes.  We entered through the Toahotu Pass on the eastern side, went between Raiatea and Tahaa and up the western side to a motu called Tautau.  Imagine our surprise when we realized we anchored in front of the “coral gardens” one of the best snorkeling spots in French Polynesia.  The photos below show the beautiful pass entrance complete with lush, green hillsides, remote islands, and beachfront property.

Pass Entrance Between Raiatea and Tahaa

Pass Entrance Between Raiatea and Tahaa

We anchored in 10 meters of turquoise, clear water.  However, we ended up sitting in 2 meters of water by the time we let out scope.  We enjoyed watching a family of sting rays glide by under the boat.

Matt jumping out of the water behind the boat

Matt jumping out of the water behind the boat

Ile Tautau is “technically” a private island with a small hotel called “Tahaa Pearl Resort” complete with many thatched huts hovering over the water.

Tahaa Hotel Complete with Thatched Huts Over the Water

Tahaa Hotel Complete with Thatched Huts Over the Water

CORAL GARDENS

By sheer luck, we anchored in front of “ coral gardens ” which lies between the two motus (sandy spits).  We had not heard about the coral garden and certainly did not know where it was located – so lucky us!

GoogleMap of Coral Gardens

GoogleMap of Coral Gardens – photo courtesy of “Snorkeling Report

The coral garden is the most renowned snorkeling spot of Tahaa. This crystal clear water channel, which separates two motus, is located in an idyllic setting in the middle of one of the largest lagoons of Polynesia. While let yourself drift over colorful and preserved corals, you will observe alternately school of butterfly fish, lion fish, brightly colored wrasse, clown fish huddled in their anemones and great giant clams sunbathing right under the surface of the sea.

Tautau anchorage in front of Coral Gardens

Tautau anchorage in front of Coral Gardens

Coral Gardens is the name of the cut between the two motus.  We ended up walking “sweetie” as it got pretty shallow.

It was pretty surprising how shallow the gardens are.  We jumped in at about 2 meters and began our swim.  As we continued up the cut, the depth varied between 2 meters to 2″ just below our bellies.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

A healthy, red, soft sea anemone was busy cleaning several fish.  I watched the fish swim in and out of the sea anemone.  It was a beautiful dance together.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

The fish were particularly curios and friendly coming right up to my mask as I hovered over their underwater home.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Save Coral Gardens

This true to life aquarium was magnificent to swim in – what a blessed opportunity we had exploring this oasis.  Typically this is a drift snorkel where the current carries you through the corals and down the channel.  However, the weather was screwy with us due to remnants of the maramu and we had no current – which was fabulous.  We could swim up and back at our own pace with no current.

Imagine my horror as I researched the history to learn that the years and public have been  hard on the environment.  The devastation has been exponential which is just heart breaking.

The tour companies bring tourists in by foot and they trample on the coral and sea life.  Plus some areas are so shallow you rub or touch the coral as you swim overhead.  Not sure how to remedy this other than to shut down certain areas.